or better yet ...Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke
or better yet ...
Today's plan was to weld in the heater air tray, then bolt the engine in. Good plan, but it's pissing down, I've got an inch of standing water by the car.
Having given up on the welding I donned some once piece waterproofs that I bought when I had my buggy. I've been bolting stuff on, alternator, engine mounts etc. everything I bolt on now is one less thing to bolt on later. I wasn't going to look at the rear brakes until the engine was running, but since I can't weld I've been stripping off the rear beam, I need to do it to get the old exhaust off, it's nasty in the puddle... I should at least get the rear suspension fitted...
some pictures for Matt:
- new water pump, engine mount, alternator mount, and alternator tensioner
- same from another angle
- rear mount ready to be bolted on
Last edited by Andrew Cooke; 06-08-2009 at 23:24.
That mount looks the danglies Andy. Will the mount stop the engine from moving too much? I desperately need something to stop my engine from rocking when the power comes on and off!
I dont think Andys engine is going to be moving much...itll pretty much be fixed from what I saw
Those mounts are pretty beefy too.
And, I see you've connected the alternator up on that bracket you made, that adjusting/tension/tightening arm on the alternator almost looks oe
the mounts are going to be on the solid end..
indeed, alternator all mounted. I must confess that the idea came to me having seen Ashy's tensioner. I just need to find a 9/16 spanner to nip the locknuts up, the joints are imperial, and the 14mm won't go on.
I hope it's a bit drier tomorrow, I'm bored of sploshing about in water. I got the rear coilovers on, I think it's going to end up lower than I expected, full droop is about standard rideheight. I've not sat it on the floor as I've been trying to graft the 172 rear brakes on. The disks look a bit worn, so I've had a rummage through my spares, the old disks off the race car look almost new, and I found a set of new pads that were in the spares box when I bought the cup car in 2002
The rear disks increase the rear track a bit compared to drums, I thought I'd best just throw one on to check clearance around the tyre. This happens to be a bit of a bonus as the tyres were rubbing on the inner arch before, and I was having to use spacers.
The first pic gives an idea how low this thing will be, it's at full droop, and already the tyre is tighter in the arch than it was previously sat on the ground...
The offset looks about perfect
Just a quick shot showing the rear coilover in situ.
Looking good Andy ... really looking forward to seeing this in the flesh
Coming on quick now Andrew, looking fantastic. Not long til Nat Day now matey
Hmm, nice n low
All that talk of near standard ride height is out the window now
tell me about it, I was hoping it'd sit about where it is now, but when on the ground, not jacked upHmm, nice n low
All that talk of near standard ride height is out the window now
I'm not sure about 'getting there' everywhere I look I see stuff that needs doing.
Those dampers looked really tall off of the car as well, very strange
true, but you should have seen the ones that came off, you'd think it was a Baja buggy..Those dampers looked really tall off of the car as well, very strange
just about to lift the engine in, bored of welding, it's not as nice as I'd like it, but it'll have to do, I don't have the time to keep tarting it up.
cripes, good luck getting down your driveway, never mind up it
tart it up later, if needed that is...function over form and all that jazz
look mum, no hands...
chucked the engine in, and I'm not taking it out again, it's nice to be finally putting things together.
I just tried the front legs on to see what needs machining to make them fit. Unfortunately my previous optimism that the driveshafts would fit straight on was unfounded and I'll need to get the N/S one shortened a bit. Any idea where I could get that done PDQ in a 50 mile radius?
Andrew looking at that lot, i would be concerned about the 7 days in which to finish it in!!
what have you got to be concerned aboutAndrew looking at that lot, i would be concerned about the 7 days in which to finish it in!!
Ok i should have said if it was mine!!what have you got to be concerned about
I get mine done near Brands Hatch, if thats any good.
that's a bit of a haul from here, but I'll bear it in mind. Can they do it while you wait? That said, there must be somewhere in Coventry or Birmingham that can do it.
I`m seeing him this morning and will ask how long they take etc.
http://www.ndeclarketransmissions.co.uk/page1.htm
Based in coventry according to a telephone number search!
http://wilsondriveshafts.co.uk/compo...act/Itemid,34/
Nottingham
lol my geography is terrible
Last edited by Chris Hebden; 08-08-2009 at 11:17.
Do you not know somebody with a big mig ? You could chop them, cut the castellation, tack them up and have someone weld them tight.
Assuming they are hollow ? If not it's cut, shut and slip some heavy tube over the join and weld that in too.
I'm not sure I'd know what I was doing, don't suppose you have any pics? I don't know anyone, but I have spotted a factory welding RSJs...
No pictures
If they're hollow they'll have an o.d of about 35-40mm I think. Wall thickness is about 5mm in the ones I've done. Imagine cutting a castle-top shape into each end of the cut such that they slip back together and mesh, preventing turn. You weld that up and it'll be as strong as you like. Ofcourse you have to take into account the height of the castellation when plotting where to cut, which I didn't do once and ended up with a scrap shaft after I'd cut it 5mm too short
Solid ones mean you have to find some heavy wall tube with an i.d the same as the shaft diamater. You cut a 45° chamfer on the ends of the cut, butt it all together and weld into the chamfer having slipped the piece of tube on first. grind it level, slip the tube over the join and weld that up tight at each end.
I thought I ought to try and splice the 172 engine loom into the Twingo today.
I connected up what I thought I'd need to fire it up, turned the key, and nothing....
To cut a long story short there's a starter motor relay that interrupts the signal from the key to the starter and is energised by an ECU inside the Clio. It's still in the clio, so I bridged out the relay, and the car now cranks. I've got oil pressure up.
The fuel pump doesn't seem to run, I strapped the relay input that is normally controlled by the ECU, and the pump ran. 2 leaks, one from the FPR which I fixed by swapping in the one that normally lives in the clio tank, the other is the return to the tank in the top of the tank, not looked at that one yet.
So, it won't start, the fuel pump won't run, I have a horrible feeling that the ECU may be the problem, I think my next job is to get the OBD working so that I can look at what's going on. Oh yeah, I can hear the fbw throttle 'singing', so something is going on in the ECU.
Before I worry about electrics I'll get the rear disks and calipers bolted on, I need to drill and tap some M8 threads to M10, outside of that it should be pretty straight forward. Well, until I try and get the handbrake working.
Have you gone through the ECU plug and checked for the right conditions on the important pins ? Earths, battery lives, ignition lives, volts on the relay o/p's etc ?
not yet, I'm bored of electrics for today, I'd rather do the brakes in the dark
Last edited by Andrew Cooke; 09-08-2009 at 00:17.
I got somewhere mounting the rear disks tonight. Fortunately the 172 and the twingo have bolt on spindles, I optimistically thought I could just unbolt all the clio stuff and fit it to the Twingo. Well, that's almost the case except that the Twingo spindles hare fixed with 4xM8 bolts, whereas the Clio uses 3xM10 and 1xM8. I started on the left as I'd already stripped drum off, it was a bit of a fight to tap out the rear beam, but I managed it Ok, and even slipped a bit of shim behind the spindle to add a bit of negative camber. The left went together OK.
Then I started on the right, the drum was coming off OK until one of the M8 bolts sheared off, and Sods Law it was the one that I need to keep M8. Managed to tap out the other 3 to M10 without a problem, but have so far failed to budge the sheared off bolt. I'll try welding a nut onto it tomorrow to see if I can pull it out...
Before anyone asks how much -ve camber I have, I don't know, but some....
Andy if you manage to pull this together for ND i think cold beers will defo be on the cards at the end of saturday.....
if I'm still alive by ND cold beers will be on the cardsAndy if you manage to pull this together for ND i think cold beers will defo be on the cards at the end of saturday.....
just posted this on cliosport
I'll try and remember everything...
ECU has been converted to 'free running' by ECU Clinic. I'm using the 172 engine loom, and ECU, I've connected the throttle pedal, in the R67 connector I've connected:
white 1 - starter +
white 2 - ign switch position 2 (12V)
white 3 - fuel pump
white 6 - ign switch position 1 (12V)
white 7 - gnd for starter relay
blue 1-6 - throttle pedal
black 2 - alt light
black 5 - oil pressure light
black 8 - CAN-
black 9 - CAN+
When I switch the ignition on I can hear/feel the fbw throttle singing.
The fuel pump/ignition relay doesn't energise - if I pull the ecu line down the pump runs.
I've checked for gnd on ecu pins 3,28,33,67
I've checked for 12V on ecu pin30
I've checked for switched 12v on ecu pins 29 and 66
I have an Ebay elm327 obd reader, and using EasyOBDii software, it connects, and says the "vehicle data bus OK", but says "no vehicle response / connection or power" however I can hear a relay clicking away as it tries to connect.
any idea what's missing? or what else I should check?
thanks
Andy
Welding a nut onto the sheared off bolt worked a treat, so now both rear disks and calipers are fitted with their camber shims. I still need to sort out the brake hoses, pressure regulator and handbrake cables.
I pulled the front calipers off the Clio, and placed them on the front with the old disks. I removed the old pads, and looking at the face I'd have said they were a rotten old bit of steel rather than the pad material that I knew they were. I guess it's just as well that I bought the new disks and pads.
have you seen this andy ?
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=444945
nutz
that's fecking insane I actually quiet like
well he has 1 day to complete it!!
Stupid question, but what did you do with the old twingo engine?
it's sat on the floor
PM for you
Did you get it there Andrew?
No but the Delica was doing the deed on track
hi andy did you sort the electrics,is the twingo finished yet
I'm expecting the ECU back soon, although I don't have much hope of it working. I'm going to pull all of the security stuff out of the Clio as I'm pretty sure it'll work with that lot connected. If that works I'll probably convert the whole thing to PH1 and cable throttle.hi andy did you sort the electrics,is the twingo finished yet
After a change of ECU and 4 long weeks ECU Clinic have accepted that the ECU was 'virginised' rather than made 'free running'. The former needs all the security stuff in the loom to work, and the latter works all alone. Apparently I get the ECU back next week....
What's the betting that it's got a map for a diesel sewing machine rather than a 172?
Anyone near me got an RSTuner to pull the map out of the ECU?
What's the betting that it's got a map for a diesel sewing machine rather than a 172?
5/4
Have you tried the cliosport site to see if anyone has an RStuner local to you or would hire / rent to you? I believe you will need to buy some sort of code to be able to use it on a different car to what it has already been used on.
Glad to hear things are getting nearer to completion though.
I think you only need to pay the cash to reprogram the ECU, I don't want to do that, just check what's in it. Alternatively I can send it to a contact in the Renault Technocentre, and he'll interrogate the ECU.
It doesn't use an emulator, it's all software. I'm so close to going PH1 on everything, you guys have it so easy
Last edited by Andrew Cooke; 28-09-2009 at 08:19.
http://www.tek-tronics.co.uk/product...products_id=80
You can use that emulator on the phase 1 setup after unlocking it.
Dunno if that's any help to you
as I said, the PH1 guys have it easy... still waiting for my ECU to come back...
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