Thought id upload a few pics of my perfect Raider. ..Lots of work ahead but im sure it will be worth it. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Sure this wont be my last upload or questions. Cheers. Dougie
It actually looks pretty solid! What's the sills and windscreen surround like?
Hi matt, the car is sound body wise and the engine needs a tune. Apart from the secondhand wiring and some broken plastics its all good. .Plenty to keep me busy over winter
Looks in great condition. Far bit of work to do inside; good luck.
Nice to see another 5 up in Scotland. Where was it for sale?
Looks like a good original example.
It was for sale in Ireland but still on British plates. Advert said it A1 but he was telling fibs
Is it this car H570KAJ
Because I did a lot work to that car I would load photos
of the car a my place but it's impossible and if someone says load to
Photo bucket do one😀
car was bought from guys in ireland. Made it homw to Scotland but thats where trouble
1. heater fan turning wrong way. someone had wired and earth to yellow live supplying fan
2. wrong fuel filter fitted phase 1 instead of pahse 2
3. petrol gauge not working
4. speedo gauge chucked
5. leaking like a tap but traced fault to manufactured whole on inner wings.
Any history on the car would be great. before the irish guys was owned by English guy in Middlesbrough
sure with a bit of elbow grease ill get back to a1 unless you know something i dont
Mechanically car was fine when came to me but the wiring was all over the place I fitted engine loom and refitted the perc fan and wired the fog lights and made a perc fan plate in the wing that's why it's black and re wired the fog lights, re did the carb as well as it used to flood it's self and not start, fitted electric window motors and switches, the centre vents in dash was cut out for gauges I glued the centre bar back in and fitted vents, the speedo wasn't working but I fitted half speedo wire and it worked fine then, parts missing off the car I supplied and fitted flywheel cover,engine support bar,middle engine centre steady mount, phase 2 uncut long boost pipe and bracket and strap, I repaired the seats runners the passenger seat will not slide fully back,
The car drove lovely and boosted fine and body looks mint, but the floor plan has welded plates everywhere under neath and if you look under the windscreen panel in the bulk head at the heater fan it's red so to me looks like bottom windscreen panel out of another car, and the brake lines going to the back run along the floor they should run up in the centre tunnel.
Phew, i was fearing the worst there. The cars 27 year old so expected some problems. The perc fan is fecked as fan blades are broke. new ordered . Over the weekend i plan to fit proper fuel pump/ filter bracket and deal with fuel lines. Going to resolder and heat shrink most of the cables and replace what cant be fixed. AEI plugs have been sourced as wiring is on last legs. Cars not running that well bit sluggish on boost and mid range. Everything will get delt with over the winter. Thanks for letting me.know what you have done. I was really fearing the worst there. My plan is to get everything right and then full strip and repair all the metal work and full respray ( if the funds last). Thanks again and keep in touch. Dougieà
first job of many new fuel/ filter bracket fitted much better than ty-wraps
Looks a good base for a project, worth getting the bits sorted to get it back to how it should be
Looking for the following parts. if anyone can help it would be much appriciated.
1. looking for both interior plastics that go round back windows
2. looking for centre dash section with duct to heater matrix.
3.phase 2 anti perc fan
cheers
Can anyone help my identify this mount and where I would get a new one. Thanks
Would be very lucky to find a new mount for there. Most people don’t bother with it but just helps stop gearbox moving as much. Some reason not list is the dialogy on here but will try find part number for you later on today
i might have a newish 1 about somewhere bud
If anyone can point me in the right direction with the following issue it would be greatly appreciated. My r5 starts first time from cold, but struggles to start after it has been driven for any length of time.( If i let it get up to temp just idling then switch off it starts right away). There is a strong smell of fuel. The car does this if it has been driven hard or just an easy drive. Fitted new leads, spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm. Could driving it cause a build up of excess fuel in carb and flood it?
Firstly, start off with a carb rebuild. Kits and guides available from this very club!
Once rebuilt, get the fueling checked and set up. An air fuel ratio gauge/meter can be used to do this.
Is the anti-perculation fan working? The 5 gt is notorious for hot starting difficulties. The fan was a half way fix from Renault. Make sure it's working but appropriately fused.
Still available Dale?
Me again, cars getting stripped this weekend so I can do all the repairs over winter. I know this is a long shot but does anyone know if you can get replacement rad fan motors. Looking for as close as oe. Not really wanting the slimline ones available in various sites. Cheers
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/L%C3%BCft...53.m1438.l2649
See if that works for you else will post the German link, you will need to speak to them about postage if you are interested
Thanks Dale. That looks the business. Is it a straight swap?
Retaining clip at front of blade then splits apart from blades. Then replace, not done myself though do have both new fan and motor
Once again looking for advice, I am about to remove the dashboard out to repair and also change the heater matrix. Since I have the coolant out I was going to change the water pump as well. Finding an oe complete water pump is proving tricky. I can easily source the half section with impeller. Has anyone else done this? as is leave original oe half that bolts onto engine and just replace seal and impeller section. I have found a complete water pump by Quinton hazzell ( with metal impeller) but heard mixed reviews about the quality of the parts.I know certain sites are selling other pumps but steering clear of anything made in China. Any help would be much appriciated. Dougie
The half you normally get is the half you need! The other half is just the housing that bolts to the head.
As long as the mating faces are clean and a new gasket and bolts are used, it should be fine. 😁
Does anyone know where I can get these terminals? They are out the original connectors blocks that sit on both drivers and passenger footwells. I have tried all the usual suppliers but no luck at all.
You could try and find them in these catalogues:
https://www.digikey.co.uk/
https://www.mouser.co.uk/
http://uk.farnell.com/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/
https://www.maplin.co.uk/
If you do get a supplier and part number, perhaps you could post it here.
Renault will/would have sold them most likely, just depends if they are NLA now and finding the correct part numbers. There is a section in Dialogys on connectors if I remember correctly but we dont have that page on the site. My copy of dialogys is on a old computer but if I get time I will try and dig it out and get a screenshot. If you have a friendly main dealer they may be able to help, most dont seem to be that interested though.
Edit - Just thought there is that chap on the FB pages and eBay who makes reproduction looms, Juan Racing Parts or something like that ?. Maybe drop him a message.
Thanks for all the help. I have managed to track down the parts I will post manufacturer and part number once it's confirmed. Thanks again
Great work Doug! Maybe we could do with a list of connectors and part numbers on here.
After being told they don't stock them and spending all night online, I found them the first place I looked...RS components. Result
Good stuff. As the minimum order quantities are high perhaps the club shop could stock them and sell in smaller quantities ?.
the parts are made by TE Connectivity part numbers 170289-1 (female), and 170222-4 (male). The RS Part Numbers are 7121646 (female), and 7198854p (male). Thought id put up incase the pictures ever get removed. cheers
Good find
Is there an easy way to get them out of the sockets?
And then the crimping part of fitting crimp sockets can be frustratingly slow and with a messy result.
My five needs them all replaced. How many per car, whole pack of 50 of each gender?
Hi Ian, the connector blocks I removed from the donor car have 2 blocks with space for 13 terminals and one block with 20. That was just for drivers side, so 46 terminals needed of each male and female. To remove them I used a watch screw driver as my pincer driver was too big.
To remove the male plug, push the screw driver along the top of the blade . As you push it in it will push down the retaining clip on the blade and you should be able to pull it out.
To do the female terminal , push your driver in the slot the male blade would go once you push it in about 15mm the retaining clip should drop and you should be able to pull it out.
Hope this helps, the first few times it's awkward but you soon get the hang of it.
With regards to crimping them, I plan to buy proper crimping pliers for non insulated terminals.