Ive no experience on the Squirt ECU's, but i would look at the water temperature compensation table and the cranking fuel.
Ive no experience on the Squirt ECU's, but i would look at the water temperature compensation table and the cranking fuel.
Hi Matt, MS2 uses a percentage of the main fuel table and coolant temp. I compared the injector pulse width (PW) with what was workinng on MS1 for me to what was being shown for cranking with my MS2.
MS2 is cranking at 4.5 ms, while MS1 was cranking at 2.6 ms for the same temp? I've adjusted to 2.6 ms and will see how that goes in the morning.
That should make a big difference as the injectors should not be open as long.
I'm now really worried I may have some damage!? The engine, while very clean, smelled very strongly of petrol and was very runny. I have drained the oil and refilled with some 20W60 to help pick up any other fuel contaminated oil. I'm also going to get a compression tester in the morning to check the health of the engine and it's ability to build pressure.
Hopefully I haven't trashed my brand new (but already run in) Cat Cam?
I think you would be very unlucky to do any damage cranking on a starter motor, if it carried on cranking whilst initially being hydraulic, then I would be worried.
I would go over every setting. This is what I don't like about megasquirt and why I am using something else on my 5.
I found that certain parameters went back to a default value when a new map was uploaded, upgrading the firmware also does they same. Stuff like lambda calibration and various other basic setting all change to a default value...and can catch you out!
If you have your previous map, screen shot and print out each input box, and relate this to the new map on the new firmware and cross check everything. Your required fuel may have changed to a default value?
I think it has come down to a settings thing. I have the 3 point calibration resistance numbers for my particular CLT sensor, so plugged them in, but didn't really understand what the 'bias resistor' value should be, and that meant the ECU thought the engine was colder than it was and dumped a load of fuel into cranking. That together with the different parameters (i.e. percentage of main fuel table compared to MS1 raw millisecond setting) meant that is was a worst case scenario.Originally Posted by Matty
The oil was pretty clean as it hasn't run very much, so no carbon. There was some general 'running in' fine particles in the sump, but that was it.
Compression tester now in hand, so I'll know soon.
Results of the compression test were a bit inconclusive? This is what I got on a cold engine with an old starter cranking quite slowly:
No.1 - 82.5 psi
No.2 - 80.0 psi
No.3 - 90.0 psi
No.4 - 80.0 psi
I cranked for 5 sec on each cylinder and every cylinder held pressure for 60 seconds.
I'm putting the battery on charge now and will have another go tonight or when fully charged.
When I've done compression tests I keep it cranking until there is no further pressure rise, rather than crank for a given time.
Did you have the throttle wide open?
Yes, throttle wide open and while I say 5 secs, the pressure had stabilized.
I'm going to do the comp test again this morning with the fully charged battery.
So cold here at the moment. CLT at 5 deg C! Engine really slow turning over, but got 5 psi lower across the board. Not looking good. I'm going to try to warm the engine externally with a small heater before one last attempt. After that it's engine out and inspect!
Are you doing the compression test with all the spark plugs out? That what I did, I think.
Yes, all spark plugs were out and throttle fully open. I even heated the engine up today 30 deg C, and the test was the same as the first.
I've started pulling bits off the engine in prep to pull it out and give everything the once over.
either way is fine ian std pistons normally are around 140 psi yours are even ish have you got low comp pistons ?
but does need to turn over well
btw ive had hydraulic lock on the f7r before but noticed quickly it didnt do any damage at all
I have std pistons and rods and the head thickness is 73.5 ish. The motor isn't turning over very well though. I'll continue with the engine removal as it'll give peace of mind if nothing else.
Who knows, might be an excuse to go forged?........
those pressures are not good in that case ours was std pistons new everything and a 73.5 head with 1.9 head gasket got 140/145 on all cylinders bud not sure if the lock has caused the low pressures but i binned engine n got new liners etc with pressures like that, ours was rings but i renewed everything
hope this helps
Try another comp tester. I had these readings cold and a less than 1000 mile rebuilt engine. I used another good quality comp tester and got 140-145 across all 4.
The crappy chinese Machine Mart comp tester was totally shit.
The engine will be out soon, so I'll have look at what, if any damage has occurred. If nothing seems amiss I'll throw her back together with new rings and do the comp test with a different tester. Might actually do a comp test on my Datsun with the one I've got.
Engine has been out for a few days, but only got around to pulling the head off tonight. Pushrods all look straight (I'll do a proper check later). I'll check the valves to see if they are seating/sealing properly over the weekend. There is a strong smell of fuel in oil still which is a bit alarming!
Head Gasket looks brand new still.
Maybe the low comp test results are down to the slow starter, as previously suggested? I'd hate to put everything back together and for nothing to have changed?
Your low comp was down to shitty comp tester, should of tried another before pulling it apart.
I always find leak down testers are worth using to fault diagnose low compression on a cylinder. Cheap to buy too.
I'm still not sure that it was. I will do a comp test on my Datsun and see how that goes. I think it was more likely the old starter motor?
All of this is just guess work until a fault can be found or substantial evidence discovered.
I have now pulled the head off and know that all of the pushrods are straight, there are no scores or grooves in the cylinder bores and the head gasket is in good condition.
Not had much time on the five over the last few months due to Uni and other cars! Engine is all back in and fluids topped up. I pulled the spark plugs and cranked the engine for a while to prime the oil system and that worked fine. Plugs back in and the 'uprated' starter wouldn't fully engage and made a horrible grinding noise! I've ordered a new Lucas OEM Starter from CGB and will have another crack when it gets here.
If it's the same 'uprated' unit that used to do the rounds they are more susceptible to the heat (so fail quite quickly), and often have a problem with gearbox dowels IIRC (hence the grinding). It's possible to sort out quite easily from what I remember though.
It was working fine. I took my time to ensure the dowels were in the right location and it picked up the flywheel ring gear perfectly. I think the prolonged use killed it. I put the old starter on and that still worked, although quite slowly, hence wanting a new one. Anyway, I bit the bullet and got a new one from Bob at CGB. Should be here next week.
Trevhib liked this post
So with the new std starter fitted, I had another attempt at getting the car running. Long story short, I had a sticking #3 injector that was over fueling and sent me on a wild goose chase! With that fixed (injector replaced) I had another crack at getting the car running on MS2. I made a couple of changes to the fuel table and checked the condition of the spark plugs. On the second spark plug check I managed to strip the thread on #1 Cylinder!....
So once again it’s two steps fed, one step back.
I’ll helicoil the head and have another attempt!
Last edited by Woznaldo; 04-04-2018 at 03:26.
Update required here Woz....
Ok. Not much to say really as I have been deep in study (Mech Engineering) and working on my other cars. That said an offer came along that I just couldn't say no to, so on Tuesday I will pick up an RS200 parts car. It has the engine, box and suspension plus the loom. Interior and instruments are gone so probably not worth rebuilding. What does this mean? Well I'll pull the C1J out and pull it apart again as there's still far too much fuel in the oil! I'll do a mock fit up of the F4R with the 6 speed and investigate just what needs to be fitted to get the 6 spd box in.
In the mean time I've got a complete set of genuine Bosch Green Giant injectors, so that the engine should be good to go back in the car of the winter (my summer). I can then get whatever I need together for F4R swap. I'll also do the widetrack conversion at the same time (makes sense), and then figure out how I'm going to cover the extra track width (+50mm each side!)
Onward and upward.
Matt Cole liked this post
Well I thought I'd make a little update, so here goes. As alluded to above, I've been doing full time study and only finished at the end of 2019.
I've checked all the bottom end bearings on the engine and they're all fine. I've relieved the head of some material from the pushrod holes so it's ready for upgraded rods in the future. I've also measured up the spacing on the rocker assembly to make up some brass spacers.
Currently I'm rebuilding the rear suspension and replacing the rear axle/beam bushes with deep grove ball bearings. I'm also upgrading the torsion bars and modding the trailing arms to accept Clio RS172 Stub Axles and Brake Caliper mounts. This will give me the ability to adjust camber and toe at the rear using shims.
Here's a link to the orignal thread for the rear axle bearing mods: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthre...ht=rear+camber
Not started it yet, but I also want to modify the front cross-member to make the radiator/intercooler fit better.
All of this was aimed at getting the car ready to compete at a loocal Hillclimb event in August, and perhaps attempt the New South Wales state championship next year. COVID-19 may have scuppered those plans, but the work can continue.
****WARNING*** All of the pictures in this thread are hosted by Photobucket and as such they will probably fall over in the near future. I'm trying to relocate them, but Photobucket aren't making it easy!!!
Decided to remove the front cross-member to make room for a V-Mount Intercooler. I'll be reinforcing the remaining front cross-member end and adding a replacement bolt on cross-member.
First cut RHS
Cross-member off!
I'll cap and box the ends with plates and captive nuts. This will allow me to bolt on my replacement cross-member.
I've finally worked out how to get images up using imgur, as seem above, so here's how I modded the rear beam to to accept RS Clio 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier so I can adjust camber and toe (just like the 172/182).
Std axle pins removed with a big hammer. It took some freakin' big swings and only moved 1-2mm each time. Heat would have made it easier!
Better shot with pins removed. Note serrations to locate the pin and prevent spinning.
The hub-centric should needs to be removed. Pretty easy with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel.
Here's the 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier.
Here they are bolted on to the GTT trailing arm. The std GTT uses M8x1.0 countersunk torx bolts to hold the std caliper carrier in place. These need to be removed, holes drilled out and tapped to M10. The std 172/182 axle pin and caliper carrier are secure with 3 x M10 and 1 x M8 countersunk torx bolts. On the 172/182 they pass all the way through and have nuts on the back. This can't be done with the GTT trailing arm, hence the reason for tapping all four to M10. This also means the 8.0mm hole in the axle pin and caliper carrier need to opened up to 10.0mm or 10.5mm.
Finally with the std GTT rear discs. I'm going to use 172 or maybe something a little more trick. That way I can get wheel speed from the ABS sensor.
Very nice.
How do you adjust the camber and toe?
I've been wanting to do this for ages. I can't seem to find a rear set of ph1 172 rear stub axles. I'm also wanting to run 205 series tyres but worried they might rub if using the 172 stuff?
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