New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I'm looking to get 150bhp out of my r5 phase 2 allready got
2" straight through exhaust,double intercooler,,panel filter..
think I'm running around 12psi boost..can I reach 150bhp with out a cam? N turbo upgrade..
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I'm looking to get 150bhp out of my r5 phase 2 allready got
2" straight through exhaust,double intercooler,,panel filter..
think I'm running around 12psi boost..can I reach 150bhp with out a cam? N turbo upgrade..
First thing you need to do before any further increase in boost is purchase a decent afr kit like the AEM setup, this way you can setup your carb to fuel correctly for increased boost pressure. And yes a std setup should be able to hit around 150bhp before any other upgrades.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Cheers mate I'll look into it..I've recently had it setup and it had an incorrect jet fitted this was changed bk to a standard jet and the fuelling is now bang on..the actuator was seized though and it was only boosting 6psi on the rollers @106bhp ha..but to me it still went well..I've since freed up the actuator and put 3 turns on. On the incar boost gauge it's reading 12psi.but I'm going to fit an aftermarket gauge for peace of mind.
Mate I'm new to this turbo lark...where would this aem gauge go..I'm guessing it monitors fueling ? Are they easy to fit?
The AEM afr kit contains a gauge and lambda sensor which will provide you with afr reading's showing you lean/ rich or stoich allowing fine tuning of your carb. The kit will contain a lambda bung which will need welding on your downpipe and then just screw in the lambda sensor and wire in the gauge and lambda sensor which is about 4 to 5 wires in total.
Just to clarify for me, is the AEI boost feed carb top or manifold?
Best to take the aftermarket gauge reading from the carb base (AEI line) as this will give you a more accurate reading to what the engine is seeing.
Ref the in car bleed valve just ditch it not good as you can only fuel for one boost level anyway. You want to use the turbo actuator to control your boost level shorten the rod will increase boost but don't shorthen to much as will overboost.
The AEI line isn't a boost feed from factory. It's just happens to be used as a place to 'T' an aftermarket vac/boost gauge into. It's below the carb, so effectively it shows what pressure the manifold is seeing.
The standard boost feed is from the plastic carb top and shows only positive pressure (i.e. boost).
Great stuff at least I'll know what to tee into when my gauge arrives..I'm guessing my car has been setup at 6psi..and will need a further tune up now I've adjusted the actuator arm..is there a ruff measurement on the actuator arm or turns on actuator to what psi I'm running at? It's showing just under 12psi at the mo on the dash gauge..I'd like 14psi 1 bar if it's safe.
Set the boost at 15psi at the manifold and set the fueling up to match. That normally gives around 150bhp.
1bar is 14.7psi. If you get that on the dash gauge you're probably running around 12.-13.5 at the manifold. That will be safe in terms of the standard turbo and intercooler (and everything else), but you should check fuelling.
How much you have to wind your actuator rod in from where it is now to get to 1bar will be trial and error. I'd go 180 degrees at a time and test.
I agree with Alex though. Buy an AEM afr kit, buy an after-market boost gauge, T into the AEI line, set 1bar at manifold, adjust fuelling, then enjoy.
Last edited by Trevhib; 06-08-2014 at 10:13.
Waiting for a boost gauge to arrive at the mo..I'll get it setup properly on the rollers so the fuelings correct next week hopefully... thanks for the info lads..I'll let ya know wat happens.
Hopefully my mods will help to get 150bhp plus .