ha ha. nightmare mate. glad its an easy fix.
guess what? hopefully I will be picking up a raider Thursday
ha ha. nightmare mate. glad its an easy fix.
guess what? hopefully I will be picking up a raider Thursday
Sweet, about time bud . Get some pics up. Ye it was an easy fix luckily. The next time I took it out the turbo oil drain seal died and was leaking oil over me gearbox was a new seal as well.
Took a trip to the breakers to try and find a new oil drain hose from turbo to hard pipe, obviously it was going to be near on impossible to find one with 19mm to 16mm but luckily I had a brass reducer to hand, can't remember what car I took the pipes from but it's a good fit after a bit if trimming. Pic
Remember that the OE turbo oil drain pipe has some kind of protective coating (neoprene or some such), on the inside of it. Keep an eye on yours to make sure it can withstand what's being asked of it
Weather is supposed to be great tomorrow so I'm going to boosting the last two attempts haven't been so great so fingers crossed. I've also got to look at my brakes as it seems like its pulling up on the front drivers more than the passenger, which in turn gave me a bit of rear end sideways action . I've just made some plywood brake pads to stick in the calipers so I could check that all eight pistons were moving, I was thinking that maybe the passenger side wasn't moving so freely but there all working lovely. I might have to run the car into a MOT station and use there brake rollers to see what's going wrong .
The tax runs out the end of the year and as I don't think I'll get many more good weather days to go driving I've been thinking about my winter plans whilst she's sorn. First on the list is to ditch the side skirts and go oe, 2 drop the subframe with everything attached, 3 change clutch for one capable of withstanding the magic 200 bhp, 3 replace top suspension parts ie top mounts, doughnuts etc, 4 paint the bay again ,5 get 285 cam with all the gubbins put in with it, 6 possibly move air filter into its own box behind pass headlight and move header tank over the other side. That's it for now got to get the boys out the bath .
Well as my clutch is slipping like me on an ice rink I've decided to pull it to bits a bit earlier than I thought I was bored also
I've made a cardboard template to house my filter, this will be made from aluminium with a heat proof mat on the inside. I'm slowly taking stuff off ready to lift the car over the engine.
Other plans are too learn how too weld and then attack the subframe for some more strength then re paint. Might weld some more oe holes that I don't need in the engine bay as I'll be painting it again. That's it for now apart from my other plans in the above post. I think this might be my last semi big fling with the old girl, maybe I will part with her one day or maybe not some pics
That's all fine and well getting a clutch plate to handle 200 bhp but if your gearbox isn't up to it then there will be no gains. Just food for thought. No point spending money on equipment that will do you no good in the long run.
Plus your side skirts rule. Sod those oe boys. They only wish they had the balls to modify there car. But they are waiting for that miracle day when the 5 might be worth more than £2500
Thanks for the information Scott, I must admit I thought the boxes were ok for this kind of power, can anyone else confirm this? I used to like the skirts but now I don't I'm not looking forward to doing these I must admit, I'm hoping I can get away with blending in the paint. I must admit I do prefer a played with 5 than an oe one but that's probably because I like to tinker to much.
Just done a quick search and a good standard gear box is fine Scott. Mines only covered 70`000 miles so it should be ok.
Last edited by Nad-5GTT; 05-12-2013 at 19:12. Reason: adding
Good project man- looks like you've got an excellent range of skills what with all the bodywork and mechanical stuff
Your box will be fine mate for that power
There is no such thing as an uprated gearbox? The jb3 is fairly crap in my opinion, but still they will take a fair amount of abuse before breaking. Ive never had one obliterate itself on the start line on the dragstrip with drag radials and 7k rpm launch..
A wise man told me to run different gear oil to make the box last longer..
I would go for a 4 paddle plate, ap or helix with the valeo green box cover for 200hp & over
Managed to slip out the house for a cheeky fling with the car earlier, ( it's my little ones 2nd bday so I didn't think I'd have a chance in hell ).
I've continued to strip bits off for when I drop the engine. Only got to disconnect the gear linkage and downpipe, drain the brake fluid, undo the flexi pipes.
Then it's just the four subframe bolts and the four suspension top bolts and I can with help lift the car up and drag the whole lot out .
Yet another hour spent on the car Wednesday I've got chance for a semi long day on her for the first time in a long time .
As I'm going to be welding bits and pieces and painting the bay I thought it would be easier if the wings are off, so I've just taken the drivers side off. I'm glad I did because the part of the wing that is tucked in behind the side skirt has started to rust. This is my fault because I primed the wing then bolted/stuck it on then I painted it but the part behind the sideskirt is still in primer and primer is porus .
Oh and I'd sealed the exposed wing to the side skirt many years ago, so I ran a Stanley knife through it and then it slipped right into my alloy it's not that bad but it's very annoying.
Oh and most of you will be pleased, I've started to cut the side skirt off to be replaced with oe ones I only did this bit to get the wing off easier.
Anyway here's some pics.
Keep at it
Well I've just got a bit carried away with taking the old skirt off, I wasn't planning on doing this till after I'd got the engine etc out. Anyway I was itching too see if I had issues with rot so I got cutting, all was going fine from the front till halfway down, then I noticed a big load of filler it wasn't even sanded down just slapped in and job done. I dug it out and yep I've got holes . It's the only part of the car I've not seen in the 11 years I've owned it. Looks like ill be needing some new cills.
Pics
Its annoying but not the end of the world mate doesnt look to far gone either so hopefully just outers should be fine. Keep the updates and pics comeing
Merry Christmas peeps. Whilst im trying to get over my bloated belly I thought I'd pop some progress pics up. I'm to fat to type so pics it is
merry Christmas to you to mate.
nice work mate. when should i bring mine round
More progress pics, if you call taking things apart progress
And a few more
Not really interesting to you lot but as its taking me the best part of 5 hours to do I thought I'd put some pics up of my gearbox. I have just cleaned and stripped all the old paint off. I've got a tiny sandblaster so I will use that in the tiny crevices, then I'm going to sand/file away any casting marks and give it a good paint job the end case will be powder coated hence I've not touched it.
Pics,
nice work fella. as always.
This level of work is incredible. Top notch
Looks good. Great job.....fancy doing mine
Cheers chaps. If you ever want a hand Liam just give me a shout I'm not that far from you, I can't do much but can drink lots of tea very well
I really need to get out more I've just started the laborious task of getting rid of the casting marks on the g/box. I've only done two areas and that's taking nearly an hour but as I'm being this anal I've decided I'm going to sand out all the miner pitting that covers the box, then acid etch then filler primer from me gun flat that down and then top coat using a good 2k paint . Well I did want to re work the engine bay and make it tidy.
Pics
Tiny update, had a few parts blasted. Still working on the gearbox taking most of the imperfections from the aluminium now. I've also spent an hour sanding imperfections off my water pump . Pump now has a coat of etch primer on it now. Next on the list is to etch the g/box and then seam weld the subframe and strengthen the wishbones. Oh I've got to learn how to weld before I do that I've also got a pair of new sills to replace my religious ones, thanks to flight666 for them. pics
Not sure why my subframe has come out gold some more pics
Progress is progress and it will all be worth it in the end.
I'm no welding expert, but it's a good idea to stitch weld (1" weld, 1" gap) as opposed to one long continuous weld. It's just as strong and allows you to from one side of the Subframe to the other, letting the last area cool and therefore reduce the change of the Subframe deforming.
Maybe some of the seasoned welders on the forum can pipe up.
Oddly enough, like this I've just seen this in JP thread.
Thanks guys, I too just saw jp' s subframe last night I've also looked at turbo Ted's and Ashy and there's are fully welded. So fully welded or stitch welded, there's only one way to find out FIGHT!!! I might flirt between the two
I've been trawling through a few French forums and I have seen many guys add a reinforcing plate to both sides of the Subframe. This is for competition so may be excessive on a road car and may have been for Rally use. Maybe it was something that was done to the GpA/N cars?
Maybe Xenon or Pascal might be able to help?
I have now stitch welded my subframe, this is the 1st time I've ever welded so it's not really pretty
I've got myself some Renault traffic tie rods to go from the wishbones to the subframe. But I hit a problem the area of the subframe where I need to weld a bracket was really deformed from people jacking the car under the subframe, me included once in a while which meant the bracket was miles away for me to weld
So I had to cut a piece away from the top, then reshape the the underside back into position from the hole I'd just made, then cut a new piece and weld it back into place. Again 1st time I've ever attempted a butt weld and I'm pleased with the results. It's not finished yet but 90% complete. Pics
Looks good.
First thing I welded was my sub frame, best place to start as reasonable thick metal and not a main focal point when learning. Its when you move onto body work is when the heart attacks start. The metal so thin that if your not to careful the weld's can blows through.
Well after a busy February and being stuck in bed for most of this month I'm now able to work on my car, progress will be slow but that's nothing new for me. I've got a few pics of my hours worth yesterday, told you it was going to be slow painted my track rod ends and some other bits, got a few parts from Mike, and my pile of bits that will be going to the powder coaters.
Looking good, whats with the droplinks I don't recall a GTT having them as std?
Prob stabilizer bars from wishbone to subframe ?