New poster! (less than 10 posts)
hi i was just wounding what is the best make dump valve to get for the r5
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
hi i was just wounding what is the best make dump valve to get for the r5
ive not had any experience in them but i think the forge ones are what folks go for!
I had a forge one on there for a while, no troubles but sound got annoying so removed it and blocked up the hose.
ive been through quite a few, my fav is the forge group a, least favourite is the bailey dv24 or was it the dv34???
I have a bailey which is OK.
Not to put you off but I am looking to replace with a uncut pipe as I also find it gets quite enoying
If anyone wants a cut pipe with dump valve for a mint uncut pipe give me a shout lol.
I had one from a tuner on my last 5 which I preferred by miles, I cannot remember if this was BBT or GT tuning though
ive got the baileys one with th trumpet on the side
its like a wet sneeze with a chink noise at the end
like aaahchhhhhhhhhhhhhhhink
i want either an hks dv or im gona see wt its like without
as where on the subject of funny sounds.. whos is this 5.? and why does it sound like a pigeon at every gear change im assuming thats compressor stalling!
i had a forge dump valve but i had real trouble with it the diaphram stuck on it and would not relise any pressure i would use wat i use now a hks thair mint and look real good 2
Oh dear.
You'll be fine.
Try a re-circ on there Jon, I think you'll be pleasantly suprised.
Ok, either you dont rate re-circs (and im interested to know why) or you just want to show that STUPID picture of Bill off (which is totally understandable and awesome... sorry Bill... some things just shouldnt be shared on facebook)
2 reasons...
- You're re-circulating hot boost air back into the turbo intake, hence naturally raising the intake air temp's. Regardless of how efficient the intercooler is, the re-circ'd air will always still be warmer than ambient air. That's a big fail 10-4.
- If you honestly think that re-circ'd air does anything for aiding spool-up, you're more daft than that pic' of Billy looking like one of Fyffes finest.
Ok, First point is a winner. Especially considering my virgin-fanny sized bonnet vent does feck all for the inlet temps on my TMIC
Second point im going to have to disagree with you on. Having tested back to back running with and without a re-circ on both a gtt and a 21t, i've deffinately felt an improved throttle response running with. More so on the 21... Very noticeble.
Has the 21 got an MAF....?
Placebo...or we'll agree to disagree
I've also tested a recirc' setup, including Turbo Pacs stage 7 fancy recirc' sh1t kit which everyone used to rave about back in the day. No surprise that I found zilcho difference spool-up wise.
Regardless, point 1 outweighs point 2 everytime anyway.
You pay peanuts, you get.. well, crapola.
The one I was using was a £100 odd Tial (sp?) piston type. Cant remember the spring rate but it worked a treat.
Not having a dump valve (unless you've got anti-lag) is throwing away performance. Every time that throttle shuts the comp wheel tries to stop. it takes time to speed up again. Also, the torque through the shaft when that chirping is going on can be destructive. There are stories of comp wheels shattering, but far more likely (and common) is the shoulder where the comp wheel sits develops a fatigue crack and the shaft eventually snaps, or the weld fails and the exhaust wheel falls off.
Of course, plenty of cars run without them, but uness you really can't live with the noise or really don't want a recirculating one, I don't understand why you'd want to.
I run one for ****s and giggles, I wonder if they'll make a come back in say five years time, there seems to be so many fads, that were all the fashion, go away then sort of make a come back like trackday cars/ last year the white sports hatch was the thing to have etc.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
has any one got the KTR FAST ROAD ALLOY DUMP VALVE of k-tec racing if are they any good
Correct, they're stories, and nothing more. In 14 years of owning turbo'd cars, and tuning them, I've never yet seen a turbo failure due to not having a dump valve in situ. Of course, that means nothing really compared to the millions of turbo'd cars out there, but I'm pretty sure we'd know on here if rtoc'ers had been suffering turbo failures left right & centre over the years.
As reference, did Renault fit them as standard issue from the factory? No. Are there o.e T2 blowers out there still spinning/spooling up exactly the same way they did when they left the factory all those years/decades back? Yes. Therefore, what can't speak can't lie, and you have no better proof/reference than that.
It's the same ol' scare-mongering shpiel that gets posted time & time again about the likely failures of not running a dump valve when threads like this are started, yet there's never been, and no doubt never will be, any concrete evidence to back those statements up.
Each to their own though...
I have one car with a dump valve and 1 car with (just for a laugh more than anything) i will let you know if i ever a turbo failure due to having/not having a DV.
All i can say is i cant tell the difference between having or not having a DV except for the local 14 lads get a hard on when ever they hear a DV!!
I should fit a DV to my clio diesel for a laugh
I love it how people say they have a dump valve 'just for a laugh'. That's clearly just a lie to avoid a ribbing .
Anyway, I got a lot more looks without a dump valve (due to compressor surge) than I did with a dump valve.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=xhOraZ...eature=related
i want a go on that game lol.
does the compressor really try to stop ? or maybe its just deep in surge. thats a real question btw, I honestly don't know if it will want to slow down in surge. I guessed not a lot.
I steer clear of them because it's just something else to leak or bugger up. I had a guy with EFI that had piped a forge/fisher price group-A thing in with his map sensor. the diaphram split and it shafted a liner, but Ok, that was bad luck or bad piping but it was either that or a slow death for the turbo because it will have been spinning its nuts off trying to compress the atmosphere aswell as his boost run. I've never noticed any difference in responce if I'm honest.
I only asked about it because some one told me that it could break the compressor wheel on my brand new turbo
And you've now got an answer.
Is this a good time to say ive got a dump valve for sale? piston type, £25 sheets.. good condition...
[quote=Scoff;35513]does the compressor really try to stop ? or maybe its just deep in surge. thats a real question btw, I honestly don't know if it will want to slow down in surge. I guessed not a lot.
Ummm... does it try to stop? No energy into the system(closed throttle=limited exhaust gas), surge causes system to lose energy, energy comes from only component of any mass, which is the exhaust wheel. Result, wheel slows down, and shaft gets the worst kind of load. You can even hear that effect as the frequency of the "chirps" drops with time.
I did say that of course lots of cars run without dump valves and I did say the compressor shattering thing was just stories. There is no getting away from the fact that it has been a long time time since a manufacturer made a car without a dump valve of some sort and they don't do anything which costs, just for the sake of it.
There are no hard and fast rules, but don't dismiss dump valves just because they aren't in fashion.
thanks jim but I understand the basics. I was talking about the sole effects of surge, not a closed throttle.
If I am being a patronising, argumentative f***er then I apologise. Here's to swimming with bow legged women...(anyone else see Jaws last night?)