whats the one thing ure thinking of mart? lol
whats the one thing ure thinking of mart? lol
cam timing/dizzy gear
i agree a friend of mine did a engine change but couldnt get his gtt started
so i went up and soon discovered he had put the leads on the wrong way so worth giving them a check
stupid stupid question... but are your leads:
12 o'clock = 4
3 o'clock = 2
6 o'clock = 1
9 o'clock = 3
number one from the flywheel end, not timing chain end??
i had something with backfire, had dizzy gear in the wrong way, and leads the wrong way, i thought it would cancell out but didnt until i swapped it all back as it should have been
Can someone please go up and sort this out for Raj for his christmas present This is one for the ages though WHEN he does sort it
My mate had a similar issue with his landrover, backfiring and such even though it ran at high revs.
Somehow is dizzy was 180 degrees out so he just moved all the leads round to compensate
i.e swapped 1 & 4 , 2 & 3 (I think thats right?)
looks ok mate, if everything else is as you say!
Have you tried taking the pipe off the servo and blocking the end? Servo might be goosed and causing an air leak in there!
Fail.
This is the last time I'm gonna post this...
Rotor arm should be pointing to 12 o' clock on the dizzy cap; ie, number 1; ie, the dizzy cap outlet nearest the radiator. Period.
If it's pointing towards the rocker cover/6 o' clock, the dizzy gear is 180deg's out at best. At worst it'll be a tooth either side of that out, which could be what your problem is.
The fact that you're getting backfire through the carb confirms the above. That, or your lead placement is incorrect, even though the whole dizzy gear is 180deg' out.
Take the dizzy unit out, take the dizzy cog out that sits on the cam, double-check you're defo at tdc, re-slot the dizzy cog in place, making sure that when you refit the dizzy gear, the rotor arm now points to number 1 dizzy cap contact. Number 1 being nearest the radiator, as I've said several times previously throughout this thread.
If it isn't, take the dizzy gear out again, take the cog out again, and re-slot it a tooth backwards/forwards as required. It's trial & error, but there will be a point that when the cog is fully home, with the dizzy gear sitting on top of it, the rotor arm WILL be pointing bang on number 1 contact in the dizzy cap.
After that, re-plug your ht leads on the cap in the correct order, namely 1-2-4-3 going anti-clockwise on the dizzy cap.
You could've mentioned that earlier from the previous times that I've asked...
the thing i keep coming back to is valve clearence, you sure you've got it right for the cam? i have read through but can't remember if you were told it's definatley 100% what you've used. the fact it's actually running smooth over 2k rules out timing and mechnical issues so just leaves fuelling. may also be worth whipping out one way valve and bolt and putting ptfe tape on just incase the threads are loose, could be that simple
have you got a boost/vac gauge fitted to the manifold?
a few folks in the know have said that they stick to std oe valve clearances even with aftermarket cams!
they'd kno mate, that's the problem really all the big guns on here have already given ideas and solutions and still no joy. hopefully someone will get it sorted for you
just a quick question which end of the engine are you using as the marker for number one piston.I.e water pump end or flywheel end?
The c1j engine piston number 1 is nearest the fly wheel and number 4 is at the water pump end.
I think what Andy's getting at is that it would be interesting to see what sort of vac its pulling at idle!! Maybe give us a clue as to what the problem is!!
You need to block everything that could be leaking. The brake servo outlet, has the carb got the base insulator and both gaskets fitted? have you removed all bleed valves and associated piping, just run 1 vac line straight to the AEI.
I really hope that is the prob and you get it all sorted
What a day! It was an interesting day i have to say, but a real shame we couldnt get it running anybetter than what we managed too in the end. 1200rpm was the slowest we could get it idling in the end, with a reasonable AFR that was with a .5mm idle jet
It was good meeting you Raj and Scoff, still cant get over the hob trick !
"heres the results -
- no#1 = 160 psi.
- no#2 = 140 psi.
- no#3 = 170 psi.
- no#4 = 150 psi.
"
I'd have expected more like 140psi with your cam and low cr, maybe even less. 170 psi looks like either a bad gauge, much higher CR than you think, or advanced cam timing.
Are you sure that you still have the woodruff key in the crank?
I'm not sure what you want me to measure, but I will do. If it's as bad as you think I imagine it'd look pretty bad.
cooking hobs are more usefull than you'd think
anyway, this is a wierd fault, here's what we did at raj's yesterday:
fired it up, sure enough it was lean at idle but sounded larier than i'd expect.
mixture screw did not provide enough fuel, nor does another known working carburettor.
I drilled up an 0.5mm idle jet and got idle AFR's into the 14's. that brought the idle down to 1200rpm, still it sounded choppy like a lairy camshaft. a ktec-260 cam should not need this much fuel at idle I'm sure. If it was some lairy big-overlap cam then I could understand it.
Chris brought up a compressor so we sealed the carb inlet off and pressurised to check for leaks. it's fine, it holds 2 bar in the manifold so not an air leak.
I strobed the ignition timing too, nothing out of the ordinary, so not AEI or TDC related.
So it's camshaft I thought. timing disc on the crank we checked the cam timing, it was perfect at 110° ATDC. So not a cam timing issue.
Still with the timing disc on we roughly measured duration, with 0.3mm valve clearance we got about 240deg between the valve starting to lift and being fully closed again. It was a bit of a crude measurement, we had no DTI to hand so it's probably a bit off.
we also looked at valve lift at TDC, we had both valves open aprox 2mm at TDC, looking at andy's cam data I was expecting more like 1mm, again with 0.3mm clearence. so that apeared to show a lot more overlap than his camshaft should have given, but we were pissing about with a steel rule against the spring cap, not ideal, so probably doesn't tell us much.
non sealing valves might have the same symptoms, we re-did the compression test with my gauge, had about 140psi, so not valves, and raj assured me they were lapped in good and propper.
inlet ports, manifold, etc are all standard.
I'm convinced it's something to do with the cam.
I think raj will refit the standard cam, see how that runs.
andy, it was a bodge job regarding the measuring so don't read too much into those numbers. I think the lift at TDC was fairly accurate, the duration was down to me wiggling the rockers to see when the gap had closed up. as you know, its a bit piss poor. I didn't measure total lift.
my god
wht a carry on uve had with this
i really hope you get this doe and dusted asap
You not god that cam out yet? I thought you would have got it out before me and Scoff had got home !!!!
Raj, it will say 709@110 - like Andy said.
no mention of ktec at all....especially as they got piper to make it for em....
tut tut! New came back in straight away as well?
yeah, thats what I was trying to explain to you raj. snip the tab/ears off
also, I find sticking it to the bottom of the timing cover first helps, letting it go partly off so it stays inplace, then fresh sealant on everything else and wodge it on, bottom end into the sump first.
is the lumpy stick going to be sent off to andy to have a look at when you looking to be up and running again then raj im dying to find out the verdict i cant take it anymore
how you get on??
The night is young Raj, fill her up
come on dude get her burning