You'll have to explain that to me!
Also, i changed my topic title but it doesn't appear different until you open it. How can i change the title shown in the project page?
decided to crack on and used the last hours off today to remove the engine(crank seal is leaking too), i first had to put the car back on it's wheels and put all the engine parts in as the car was standing on the driveway at home.
i thought it was way easier to just tow it to the shed to remove the engine.
it was a bit late on the day when i got there but i managed to get the whole thing out:
and how it's waiting for me to resume tomorrow morning:
my goal is to have it running again tomorrow
Get an aftermarket ecu fitted awesome project though mate, ive always fancied making a big power 9 turbo
Nah mate, wouldn't fit the origin of the project. This is just a low budget learning project.
Have a fully built f7r too which is going to be big powered.
she runs again! still a couple things to do but atleast the engine is back in and running. i've set the actuator back on 0,4bar for now and going to make a det can to listen for det.
also had contact with someone who can map it for me so maybe in a short mather of time i can put it back on 0,7bar (10psi)
pics:
you can see the det marks in cil 1&2. my guess is they breath a little bit better than 3&4
edit: i updated to photobucket pro, have to be patiënt i guess...
Last edited by Tutuur; 19-05-2012 at 18:28.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hey, Tutuur is here too
How is that Helix clutch, still driveable in trafic? (vakantie geld komt er weer aan)
Mwa, it's not fantastic but doable
my clutch does the same not a very smooth launch
infinately better than a R5 GTT uprated clutch however ;-)
car is mapped on the street on conservative timing to keep everything together.
drives a treat at 10psi!
have to make some betters vids soon but this is a short teaser (friend forgot to hold his Iphone in landscope mode)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEZ8xdybb94
How low is that, your insane (in a good way)
some more video's added to my channel.
including a head-to-head with an Audi Rs4
http://www.youtube.com/user/gluurekind?feature=mhee
after a long drive in the Dci (FCS- 1800km round trip) i really needed a blast in the 9.
so i took her out today and i think i wasted a few more mm's of the front tyres
after i turned off the highway i took a small sprint and before i knew it shew had hit the rev limiter....
first thought that went trough my mind was the diff circlip.
so i rolled out and was lucky the traffic lights where green so i made it to a retirements house parking lot.
looked behind the wheels and suddenly saw something hanging behind the offside (lhd) wheel. it was the driveshaft
so decided to crack on as i'm no member of the Anwb (A-A).
called my mom and she brought me a spare driveshaft i had. in the mean time i took the old one off and after she brought me the spare one the car was back on it's wheels after 15 min's...
unfortunately the spare has a knackered tripod but at least i could drive the car home
this is how the damage looks:
so now looking for a driveshaft which isn't knackered or going to convert to 19 16v trackwidth. does anyone know how long a 19/willy triangle is?
Nice break it's defo making good power to do that
still have to get it up on the rollers, however i'm a bit dissapointed of the high rev power.... she hardly makes anything above 6500rpm.
could be due to the .64 rear housing tho...
well i know the power potential of these should be somewhere around 280bhp but could well be lower in the reve range.
maybe a .82 rear housing would do better.... or just a gtir unit, they have .86 rear housing and supposely a bigger turbine...
however there could be more things in play. i use a f7p head with camshafts on a 2.0 bottom....
If the gtir unit has a bigger turbine wheel then that would be the one to go for
yeah maybe it would, however this one is on and it works also have to get it mapped again if i swap...
Very true and it's already breaking driveshafts, maybe concentrate on making the drive train stronger and improving the handling so the car can use the power it has more effectively or possibly use a longer ratio gearbox
i know the diesel gearboxes are longer but 1st and 2nd are shorter. don't like that... it's all a give and take mather unfrotunately...
handling is ****e anyway because of the 165 Nankang tyres, ain't going to change them as i'd rather lower it more than bring it up
That's interesting, the diesel box I'm using has the same 1st, 2nd and 3rd as a 5 GTT box but a taller 4th and 5th. What box are you using ?
hmmm you sure? it's a gtt box atm....
what speedo does it have, mechanical or electrical?
Mechanical unfortunately but I recon the electronic sensor off a mk1 megane coupe which reads the mechanical drive should work with electronic clocks
What's the code on the box mate?
Meachanical won't be a problem for me as i can then use my original clock again.
Will only lose the rev clock in that case...
I don't know as there's no tag on the box
Hhmm that sucks!
The diesel boxes i've found have shorter 1st and 2nd, same 3th and longer 4 and 5th...
Well, i'll just stay with the gtt box for now. Top speed will be somewhere around 150 anyway
150mph ??? What are you revving it too?
My old GTT box did 140mph at 7000rpm
Hhmmm thats strange! People do 150 at 7200 with a Williams jc5 which is shorter then a gtt box.
What wheelsize where you running?
Do you have the jc/jb repair manual (pdf) which is on the net?
It has al jb and early jc gear ratio's documented...
I did 140 at around 6300 or so... Rev limiter is set at 6800 but really the most power is gone above 6500
Thanks for the input Chris, maybe something to take in acount for the future. Currently i just want to enjoy driving it
So you reckon f7r cams will make a difference above 6500rpm, evet with this turbo?
Swapping cams is much easier then swapping the turbo!
i have a pair of f7r williams cams for sale if your interested
still have the driveshaft problem, don't want to buy a new one as i'm afraid i will snap a 100+ quid shaft....
however i decided to fiddle a bit.
have put some fresh 165/40/16's on the front wheels, gave the bumpers a fresh coat of black and put a Laguna lip on it.
pics:
as i had more space with the 165/40 tyres instead of 165/45 i lowered the front by 2cm or so and lowered the rear to match, this is how she stands now:
however this gives me some problem to get onto my driveway:
i've hit the subframe a nice couple of times too so have to get some protection for the oil pan:
going to shorten the downpipe too as it's the lowest point of the car atm.
it will take a few weeks as i'm going to France upcomming week
I am certain, that I do not pass my cellphone under the front parechoc
ace
I want the t-5R!!
i assume you dont get speed bumps over there - or even worse - the speed pyramid!
We get trown to death with speeds bumps here, hence why i need the sump guard.
Lol, it's not a T5-R. It's a v70R
raise it............. go quicker
Love the car. Far too low for my tastes, or practical use though.
Is that V70R an AWD? Looks awesome!
Yes it is
Thnx for the comments!
I don't see the problem, you can pass them through the middle?
If you have a Peel P50 maybe.
the sump guard is fitted however at this ridehight it gives me some problems
after a fresh paint of black and fitted:
only had to file out 2 holes and drill 2 new ones and fits perfect. now i only fear the height as it sits 2-3cm lower than the sump.
had it fitted yesterday, drove the car back home and today back to the shed to check it out, this is what i found:
i'm afraid i'll have to higher the car, customise the sump guard or remove it cause this ain't working
Love this car its so retro i think the rust on the wing helps this too