chears guys.
Front bumpers on, grill on, wipers on. All it needs now is idle sorting and brakes blead
chears guys.
Front bumpers on, grill on, wipers on. All it needs now is idle sorting and brakes blead
Update its been a while, car has done 420 miles before i tucked her up for the winter.
plans are to get some fancy gauges afr, water, oil etc.
Im going to start on my brakes this weekend, the disks on it have had it, i have bought some new Bendix rears with bearings, some txi brembos, wilwood callipers and some ds2500 pads. Andy is getting some calliper extenders made for me to.
Got my brake ducts fitted today, they wee made for the gts. Im not sure what type of ducting to buy? Going to look into it
pics anyway
How much were the ducts bud, where from?
Really nice idea, my fogs don't work anyway.
Merlin motorsport £40 for the pair delivered, just a bit cutting and filling alls cannyOriginally Posted by J8TRO
Phil the car is looking fantastic those calipers looks so sexy.
What gauges you thinking of getting?
Potentially my favourite 5 on here, are them 4pots newbstars? They are mint, hopefully have some on mine one day
I have been chatting with chris, about some AEM gear or zeitronix, can not decide.
I looking to have AFR, boost, water and oil pressure.
So 4 AEM gauges would look nice, or run zeitronixs with AFR, boost and inlet temps with gauges for the others.
What do you think or have experience james mate?
Thanks for that benj, they are wilwood midilite, another member put me onto them.
I am going for larger discs, with the wilwoods and some ds2500 which i have to modify to fit.
I just hope they all go together ok
I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore. I can't fault the AEM products I have they work as they should, really easy to install and they look fantastic am still considering getting the oil pressure one in the future. The good thing about the AEM wideband aswell is that it never needs to be calibrated due to some kind of AEM modification to sensor connection.
Nice one james, sounds like the road im going to go down.I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore
AEM looks the nuts
I have a few gauges in mine, I do like the zeitronix's kit as it can display as you say AFR, boost, egt's etc.. on one gauge at the same time.
I have a couple of the AEM gauges in my 5 I Have the AFR, and TRU boost which is a boost gauge that is also a boost controller, I was considering getting the oil pressure gauge aswell but it's electric and I have always preffered for reliability of the mechanical type so I have stayed with my Mocal mechanical gauge which diplays oil pressure and water temp on one gauge (not that the water temp part works anymore
Was the AEM boost contoller a hard thing to fit, does it leave alot of messy wires around?
Not the best of pics but here you go
nice james, you need the other aem gauge for the oil pressure mind.
Have you fitted them that way round, i thought the boost would have been closest to you for ease?
phil
No not fitted that way around I have got the AFR the closest, the boost in the middle and oil pressure at the other end, i think you are right in saying I need oil pressure but I found it hard justifying paying out £350ish notes just for the 2 gauges
I'll try and get a short video of them working so you can see what the AEM ones are like.
Started on my brakes at the weekend, had murders getting back nuts off and removing the bolts to get the caliper off. 5 mins with impact gun, job done.
Pressed new bearing in the rears. I also tried drilling out a bleed nipple on the rear that had snapped, no good, looking for another caliper.
My ferodo pads have had a grinding to modify them to fit the willwoods. I basically bought a midilte caliper unfortunately you can not get a ds2500 pad for this so i modified another pad as the patterns just the same.
Job done.
Should have extenders tomorrow, so fitting the weekend i hope
did you spray the side of your pad after cutting?............ your such a cleaning/style hore
The job was done correct yes andy, i spent about 1 hr shaping the pad to run with the contour of the calliperdid you spray the side of your pad after cutting?............ your such a cleaning/style hore
Rears were done last night, new discs, with bearings and some lovely ferodo ds2500 pads.
I will be also trying on the willy wheels to make sure i have enough rear bumper clearance tonight. I may also get a start on the front brakes
God i can not wait to get back in it.
phil
Hey Phil, did you get the TB on yet? Has it made any difference bud?
Honestly Trev, i could not say, engine has only done 400 miles and i have not driven it past 5000rpm yet.
I was amazed how much larger it was, here is a few pictures.
I had to make a little bracket to hold the tps in place.
I did swear a bit fitting it, it was a squeeze to stretch the silicone pipe over the thing.
Ah, I'm glad it's all on and working bud. Maybe the real gain is at the top end like you say. A bit disappointing given that others have said it made quite a difference the their cars though. Still, for the small outlay it was always worth it the experiment and surely, the more power you run in the future, the more prudent it will have been that you fitted it
Ah, I'm glad it's all on and working bud. Maybe the real gain is at the top end like you say. A bit disappointing given that others have said it made quite a difference the their cars though. Still, for the small outlay it was always worth it the experiment and surely, the more power you run in the future, the more prudent it will have been that you fitted it
Definitely a worth while mod, like you say, i know another member said he had noticed a quicker throttle responce from fitting one.
I just have not driven my car hard enough yet
I just have not driven my car hard enough yet
Puff, get ur foot down
Puff, get ur foot down
Update on this thread.
I have been replacing the back brakes with new bearings, new discs and a used rear calliper, with some ferodo ds2500 pads.
The fronts have been a little more tricky, wrong discs to start with but making headway now. I have bought some lancier discs and had some machining done to get them to fit.
I now have issues getting my 16" arrows to clear the front callipers, so im now measuring up for spacer either 5 or 6mm.
I will be doing a stud conversion, not sure which is the best road to go down, going to have a little search.
Williams wheels i bought for the track are also not fitting and catching the rear bumper, thats the next job after the brakes are sorted.
I have a bad feeling i may miss Mallory this year the way my luck is with the car
wheels
That middle picture looks well close! don't think my Clio rims on 50's were that close!
Thats the next job, im sure i can move the bumper back about 5-10mm.
When i first fitted the arrows with 195 45 16s they rubbed like that to, that the problem running a 50 profile tyre on a 15" alloy.
So gayI have a bad feeling i may miss Mallory this year the way my luck is with the car
Feck off, you not got something wants paintingSo gay
Yeah, your calipers need touching up!Feck off, you not got something wants painting
PMSL you ****Yeah, your calipers need touching up!
Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!
You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.
Moving the bumper back always looks gash -
Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW!
Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!
You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.
Moving the bumper back always looks gash -
Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW!
Yep, 7J wide 15" rims with 50 profile tyres on a lowered GTT. Rubbage!!
You should be alright on 45 profile tyres. It will look, sit and handle better too.
Moving the bumper back always looks gash -
Then paint the Willy wheels silver with a polished lip and do away with the arrows - FTW!
Alright trev, i don't have much of an option as the whilly wheels are more than likely to be my track wheels thats why i bought them. 888s and slicks are always going to have a higher side wall and there is nothing close to a 45 slick or semi, so i really have to get them to fit somehow.
Arrows are here to stay im afraid, they must be a marmite wheel alot of fellow members dislike them then lots of people love them, trust me they look great in the flesh.
phil
Hi mate.
Sorry, I forget people have different requirements to me sometimes
You're right, if the wheels are for track and you're going slick/non-road etc then I guess you will encounter clearance probs at the rear that you'll need to sort out. Normally in cases like yours, shaving the inner lip of the rear bumper and grinding out that protrusion in the rear quarter near the bumper mount is enough to clear road going 195's with 50 profiles on most 15's. Whether that would then be enough to clear slicks I don't know.
As for the Arrows, I like the design, I'm just not keen on bigger than 15's and I'm not so hot on them in black. It's not about what I like though
Hi mate.
Sorry, I forget people have different requirements to me sometimes
You're right, if the wheels are for track and you're going slick/non-road etc then I guess you will encounter clearance probs at the rear that you'll need to sort out. Normally in cases like yours, shaving the inner lip of the rear bumper and grinding out that protrusion in the rear quarter near the bumper mount is enough to clear road going 195's with 50 profiles on most 15's. Whether that would then be enough to clear slicks I don't know.
As for the Arrows, I like the design, I'm just not keen on bigger than 15's and I'm not so hot on them in black. It's not about what I like though
I hope a bit of rubbing down on the bumper will do it. Im on that next, then fit all my gauges then a wheel refurb if i have time before ND.
As for voicing your opinion, i was aware of that just over a year ago trev
And 16s in black, thats where its at
I actually fancy another 5 gtt, a nice standard electric blue phase 2 on some polished turbines, just dont have the room.
Been on the brakes again, calliper is off for a lick of paint. I have got my disc's back centres machined and stud hole elongated.
I have also been spending again, a full stud conversion kit with nuts, new brake pipe and bits to make lines for the front, air duct for my intakes and joining sleeves, 6mm spacers and a new shiney red omp strut brace.
Here are a few pictures of the studs, disc's and callipers on.
Its a shame my old one have come off all the time i spent on them.
Drilled spacers for retaining nut, mounted front ducts with air duct pipe, made my brake lines up but im going to have to re-do, they are to close to the calliper therefore rub on inside edge of alloy on full lock
The brake saga continues, i got the other willwood 4 pot back from painting, fitted them both to the car, brakes feel ok when ignition is off, but when engine is running they make a whooshing noise and the pedal hits the floor as per my thread last night.
On closer inspection, there was a weep coming from a braided connection at the rear, i tried to nip it up but it did not feel right, so took it apart and the threads were crossed.
I then thought i would just replace the rear section of brake pipe that was until i tried to get the pipe from the calliper. Nut was completely rounded, 11mm spanner slipping, moal grips no good, so i hacksawed the pipe and filled it down a bit and whacked on a 10mm socket, it was in super tight and when it came out it to was also threaded and the thread were damaged on the calliper.
Tapped it and fitted the new bit of pipe it all seems ok, no leeks, but giving up for the night.
I will get back on it on Saturday, so fingers crossed i should be up and running.
Brakes are finally done, pedal feels very different, they bight alot quicker but with a bit more travel on the pedal.
Car is getting insured again tomorrow so will be out putting some miles on it, all its still only done just under 400 miles
Car had a little weep from the sump which i fixed and a little leek from a rad pipe.
I removed the front struts again and lock tightned some bolts to face up over so fitting should be easier and get a better hold.
Strut brace fitted.
Back bumper was moved back a little and inside lip sanded down. Loads more room on the back now.
I have notice i have a bit of a leek from the brake compensator but only when its jammed on, should i be worried, i have it set half way and it appears not to be leaking.
Next its just go out and get some miles on it, then bleed the brakes again.
I will be starting on the hunt for a full AEM gauge set next
Looking good Phil
Engine bays looking nice and neat Phil
Like the idea with the strut bolts, think i may adopt this idea for mine too
Enjoy adding the miles mate
Feck,that money totals going up and up!
Feck,that money totals going up and up!
Im actually having my doubts weather im going to make nd this year to.
I had the car in for a wax oil, he noticed i have burnt a hole in my petrol tank.
Car is now up on stands again in the garage, no tank, no petrol, also the oil leak i thought was coming from the sump is not, its coming from what i think is the oil sender. I have drained all the water out the car as the rad had to come out, so im now looking into a better pipe option for the water pump.
My new rear compensator should be here soon, so another go bleeding brakes, then i need to get another 500 miles on the engine and then fit a afr gauge, boost, oil pressure and water temp
Its not looking good guys, i tell ya
Couple of months yet mate, you can get it done
You think?Couple of months yet mate, you can get it done
Im aiming to just get it back on the road in time, i think i will then just bring it down, and not bother putting it out on track.
I have barley driven it briggs and have no confidence in it yet.
Its finding the time at the moment works been busy and im looking for another car to.
This has got the makings of a Redcar to Mallory convoy with PMT's northern Service Van (AKA Brigsy!)
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