Is it wrong that this manifold is making me feel a bit naughty
Is it wrong that this manifold is making me feel a bit naughty
Sweet progress....
There prob isnt much difference in weight the a 5 and crx... plus you can compete with a crx...
This is only round the corner from me
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1418911.htm
Small update, my bottom end is now in the hands of ups on its way back to me Although I have lost my double garage due to my old lady moving im still going to crack on with the build on her new drive way with my gear and tools in the corner of the new garage, I would have build it in there but I have been evicted by my little sisters drum kit. I have collected a few parts over the last couple of months (working every minute under the sun) I still need a few bits inlet manifold,turbo,cams etc but I now have something to get me started My valve cover is away having two bungs welded into it and at the same place my new fuel tank is being made.
Talking of turbos I am still un-decided between the precision 6262 billet, precision 6765 billet or the hta 3586r. Anyone have any thought on this? I know the 6765 works well on the b18's but am wondering wether or not its going to be to big on my little b16
Last edited by rs250nut; 09-07-2010 at 00:15.
Drove to ashford yesterday with the missus in tow to pick up my head, other than one broken stud im happy with it for £50, bargain. Got home from work today to strip it down for cleaning and shipping. With .5mm oversize supertech valves being inserted, double valve springs and titanium retainers, I would have left it stock but these parts can be a weakness when reving to 11k+, and at a price I could not refuse.
After the best part of an hour it was in bits, I could not believe how big the inlet ports were.
£50.... happy days...
This week just keeps getting better,got a phone call today from the gf's old lady telling me a box had arrived, feckin get in its here at long last. After waiting nearley two months my sleeved b16 bottom end has arrived Complete with 83mm 9.0-1 c.p pistons with upgraded wrist pins, pauter rods with 3/8'' arp bolts, benson polished and balanced crank, type-r oem oil pump,oem water pump and acl main and rod bearings.
I'm short of a few parts now namely a pair of b series shafts, gear linkages to chop up, two engine mounts and a harmonic balancer and then I can start to fabricate some mounts to hold this puppy in the bay, Im might take a visit to the local scrappy to see if I can chop some out of a civic Im swaying towards williams bottom arms now to try and push the wheels out of the arches so I can fit wider wheels and still keep the bottom ball joint in the middle of the wheel, my only concern being that this may weaken the shafts being longer,or am I just talking poo So I also may need a williams rack and try to make it work without the pas pump.
Sweet.... What kinds sleeves are they? you not go for MIDs... what kinda of cost was your sleeving out of interest? i see exo charge $1100... did you get any prices from over in UK...
I really think you should keep this motor in a honda... even consider joining the HKS, seems your thing.... Once you have built your car and got in it its pretty good fun.. Free entry to events and weekend tickets, never pay for a RWYB again, good pit area, a track prep that you never guna see at a RWYB. Also as you will be msa and have all the gear and licence etc etc you not just limited to HKS, you can entry any sportsman class.. FIA top fuel events if there is a FWD line up, summer nationals, so on..... and all free!!!... plus if you win or get in a final your £££`s in.. winner...
Also you can compare you build better then to the USA guys as the rules here follow there Outlaw SFWD class..
If you stick that motor in a 5 you couldnt do anything but RWYB... still be an awsome car no dout but just somthing i think you should consider before get in to deep...
Here is a bit of info about the sleeves and the sleeving process.
Why do we choose Benson sleeves.....
What makes a Benson signature series sleeved block better? Several sleeve manufacturers have working designs. Each manufacturer comes about their design by different means. They all work to some degree. All sleeves are made out of the same strength and quality nodular iron as it a necessary material to seat rings. Therefore sleeve strength is determined by bore size and bore centerlines. No matter how fat the sleeve may be, the weak spot is between the cylinders. Nothing is secret about that.
What sets Benson apart from everyone else is the precision of his machine work and his method of installation. First, Benson has no employees, so no rookie or uninterested machinist touches your block. Only Benson. His method of installation insures that a sleeve can never drop, shift or leak. You never have to align bore your block with his sleeves because of the block core shifting. This is because he takes less material from the block during installation than other sleeve designs require. That keeps the block stronger by default and does not let the main saddles move, thus causing the need for an expensive align bore.
The important thing is his name is on every block and there are no excuses. He uses a sleeve designed by himself, manufactured by Darton to his specs and no one else can purchase it from Darton. It has been perfected over the last 10 years to work flawlessly. The real secret is in the person that does the install and the precision quality they demand of themselves. This is what sets Benson way apart from the others.
The original sleeves done by Benson (at least 12 years ago) were closed deck. He soon discovered that within the block, the aluminum, when heating up, was expanding at a different rate than the nodular iron sleeves. This caused the sleeves to distort out of round at operating temperature, thus hurting ring seal. Another benefit of keeping the deck open (as Honda engineers designed it) is the extra cooling that is afforded to the head gasket, thus less gasket failure and more efficient head cooling.
Certain sleeve installers seat their sleeves to the block using only a wedged fit to hold the sleeve in place. They do not butt them to a ledge cut into the block. As the aluminum block heats and expands, the crush can change and allow the sleeve to drop. Others manufacturers use an o-ring for sealing. The o-ring has a receiver groove cut into the outside of the sleeve. Unfortunately this groove weakens the sleeve to the point that high boost cannot be used safely. Benson uses a precision machined interference fit along with a proprietary sealer to insure no sleeve movement or leaks.
I went through Mike at Laskey racing as I told him what I wanted and there was no sort of up sell, you need this and that but dont need this etc, sound guy and he does the sleeving for $975. To be honest I did not bother with anyone over here because the yanks have perfected this art over the years what with all sorts of top fuel drag monsters, nascar, 900hp+ b motors, and I could not find a specialist who had experiance with Honda motors here in the U.K plus I could imagine the cost would be silly over here. The exchange rate is still quite good at $1.5 to the £
Yeah i here the same from alot of peeps about peeps sleeving over here etc etc... im actualy hoping to change that in the next 12months and poss offer a service over here... Sleeving is one of the services we offer and do best on porsches, and designing our own sleeves etc etc at my work with cars coming nationwide even from ireland and porsche main agents on occasions for the work and engineering we do, as we speak we currently have 12 engine rebuilds come in this last week.. aaarrrrr... killer hours
Anyway Im going to buy some Mid sleeves from darton to copy a cast and will fit them at work.. So in the future me mite be able to offer a service to the honda lads and help us lot out which would be a winner and save us some cash... We are aswell at the mo going to be doing some machining/sleeve work for one of the UKs fastest honda tuners ... no names said...
Now get that engine in a honda and come racing... Bring on the B`ssss... sick of these K`ssss
I dont know where to take this now, as rob has pointed out above there are no classes that I can race this car in so what to do? I think im going to try and find a tidy eg civic and throw the engine in that, so that leaves me with the raider, if anyone fancies it give me a shout, if I get offered the right money I will sell it will all the parts I have for it, new o.e front bumper, all bodykit, new springs,gearbox, raider carpet,dash etc etc etc
Good move, i think it will just make you life alot easier to stick with a honda chassis too.. Now get yourself down pod this saturday for rotorstock 7
http://www.rotorstock7.co.uk/
Unsure of our numbers going but i get free tickets so if i have one going ill leave it on gate for you..
The car is running and sounds well.. havnt drove it yet but im spending tomoz night on the dyno over at TDI... Im heading down pod friday morning for a couple test runs.. if the gearbox holds well with the new 24.5 drags then id like to see better than our 10.9et... just have to see.. dont want to kill it as motor is sold...
Raider is now gone well last month but I may be replacing it with a 1994 civic eg with no sunroof, thats if I win it on the bay. Brought a headgasket from golden eagle last night, its a standard honda item that is sized for my custom bore size with the shipping came to 144 dollars, 44 being the shipping, ****ers. Head should be back from portflow design with in the next two weeks aswell so then I should have the engine complete with head on etc. Still undecided on a turbo though. Also the season starts on march the 21st so it seems I have more chance in $hitting in the queens handbag than being ready unless I find time to earn more money.
Last edited by rs250nut; 22-10-2010 at 11:02.
What bore you plan to run at? What sarts on march 21st?? good progress tho buddie...
S**t I was looking at the 2010 calander for the hks series, doh. I went with finished bore size of 83mm and a p2w clearance of .0035 which is what c.p recommend. Some say this is a bit tight for what I am trying to achieve. After talking to Mike about it, I want room for a few rebuilds, blow ups and after 84mm the sleeves get quite thin in the middle. I dont want to have to fork out for another block in a hurry.
Awsome so you fancy the HKS then? the first round is at the Easter Thunder ball, Its a 4 day event and all FIA racing, so no bull**** RWYB days, just top fuelers and the hks.. Racing will be over two days tho, there is a entry fee (which all racers over the weekend pay) of about £150, this will get you 4 qrew passes aswell and electric hook up..If you have a motorhome.. Think we are going to hire one for the weekend..
83mm bore, good stuff, same as us then, think we will be up around 1900cc..
I will have to race this now after selling the five and most of my bits to go with it. Looking forward to it though as it should be proper fast. I think the only thing that will stop me being there is money, loads of stuff still to buy, decent shafts, wheels,tyres,turbo,ecu, etc I think I still need another 3 grand to finish. What are you doing for a drivetrain? Motorhome I wish, that would be the bollocks though, how much to rent one for a weekend
I have to cc the chambers when I get the head back but I think i am around 1675, are you using the 87mm crank?
All stock, stock shafts and stock box (S9B)... alot of peeps have pulled good times with stock parts.. should be ok up to 145mph, after that i think an investment will be needed.. If i was you id be getting a set of drag wheels sorted soon, specialy if you want exo`s... I wouldnt worry much about the rest other than the cage, you could just run a roll bar for now this will see you down to 10.00et, it does state (or 135mph) but the scrutineers didnt even know that them selves.. WTF.. but another racer might pull you up and start a investigation... Its the clothes that cost, need to save about a grand for all that crap..
The motorhome, well ill leave that into someone elses hands, aint a clue on the costs.. ill just make sure the car gets there..
Stock b18c4 crank... also our c/r be at 9.0:1
What sort of money did you pay hauser to build you a cage? Are you going to be running on pump fuel? I have had my head skimmed to bring the compression up a bit from 9.0-1. Missus is getting proper sour with all the spending, o well cant beay bad luck im life
We sent the car all stripped, no dash etc etc, you need to bin the heater box and heaters too.. This helps them out so basicly they just weld it in.. Think your looking at around £1000-£1100 or summet all in?? This is for the 8.50 spec cage which we run.. You can buy just the pipes all bent for around £200 from him and do the rest yourself if you know a good welder..
Just tell the missus that you win money back
Worth trying Andy Robinson aswell regarding a cage... all good builders..
Im also going to have to buy some sort of coilover I suppose as I doubt anyone has an 800lb spring in a convention size spring. Ahh more bloddy research.
Dude id just spend my time getting the car rolling and sorted for hks.. worry about things like that later in the year..
I just want it to be right straight off the bat, I suppose it not going to happen like that though.
This should be a very interesting project! Defo made the right choice to out the 5, as Rob says, RWYB's are crap!
For the cage you could try http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk/ very nice guy to deal with.
Did you manage get the civic?
Nah the bidding went silly in the end from 190-500 in the last half hour, it was just the ticket though being a 1.3 non sunroof dx with running problems.
Not a massive update but I received the head gasket the other day from golden eagle, it's an o.e item which is machined out to my bore size of 83mm. I should have had the head back today but dhl messed up, after me paying the import duty it should have been cleared for delivery but it got delayed my some monkey not sending an email, w@nkers. Anyway I hopefully should have the short engine pretty much complete over the weekend. I'm also going to fit the sump pan, a baffled item from moroso with a 3/4 inch thread in the side, I managed to find an adaptor to convert to -10 for the oil return. I can also seal the top end up now aswell, I have had the rocker cover blast cleaned to remove all the old scabby paint and at the same time had some -10 bungs welded in as part of the breather system. See if I can get some pics up but don't have access to a proper computer at the moment.
Any signs of a shell yet mate... just ordered our new blower...
If any mods are reading this can I change the thread title?
Good move... we still have loads of work to do yet and loads of parts needed.. yeah we went for the borg 72mm... not the new efr tho..
S372r ? Is that journal bearing, what exhaust housing did you go for? T4 divided
Ended up driving up to Southampton to pick the head up as dhl messed up the address again. Super happy with so i decided to paint the rocker cover to day. I used an etch primer then straight on with the base coat with a special blend of colours, then applied a few coats of kandy, followed by the splats of blue with blue flake in topped off with five coats of clear.I also set about trimming the end of the cover so I can adjust the cam gears without having to take it off.
Last edited by rs250nut; 23-12-2010 at 00:03.
What colour you going for on the rocker buddie... we cant clash now can we lol..
Id consider going .82, your at 83 bore yeah? so whats that put you at 1700cc or there abouts? plus you can rev out loads... FO SHOOOooooo
ok you just posted some pics... must have read my mind... looks good... what springs or retainers are you running? you keeping stock cams?