Mot passed today just an advisory on my rear wheel bearing..happy with it so far but I'm only running 12psi so still a bit of room to play.. The cars hunting though so needs a bit of a playing with on the maf to get it right.. Going to have a go now and if I get it right tomorrow's drive to work should be fun
Well the fun was short lived went to work fine. Driving home started flooding its self again. If I take the fuel relay out it starts put it back in it just floods itself agin. 145pm I left work 715 I got back the AA can **** right off.. Back to square one I don't think it's the ecu this time as I tried another and it was the same againagain... I have no faith in this set up anymore and in 12yrs of driving iv never not got home before..
Woody I really feel for you mate. That car is giving you know end of problems. For what it's worth mate, the end is just on the horizon, it'll be something silly like a faulty resistor and you'll be sorted.
The aa tested the maf and it was still set at 320 oms I'm thinking throttle sensorOriginally Posted by Benjibrady
Well the fun was short lived went to work fine. Driving home started flooding its self again. If I take the fuel relay out it starts put it back in it just floods itself agin. 145pm I left work 715 I got back the AA can **** right off.. Back to square one I don't think it's the ecu this time as I tried another and it was the same again
Rubbish to hear your still having problems, I thought you had cracked it.
Sounds like that could still be a loom fault. If you remove the fuel relay that should remove the live feed to the pump so won't run.
In the past I have used the wrong impedance injectors, that blows the outputs on the ecu. It's not instant though, same as your first issue, it gets richer and richer until it no longer runs.
If the ecu outputs are damaged, even though you unplug the pump relay, it would continue to fire the injectors and supply fuel until the pressure drops in the rail and no longer runs.
The ecu only needs tdc, afm and temp sensor to run, without other sensors plugged in it just guesses.
Did you find any info on the net as to which sensors, which wires to test and what readings the should give?
I haven't no haz.. It really is getting on my tits now as I say I have no faith in it what so ever I will have a look over it over the weekend but I can't visually see anything like last time. Could it be I have the wrong loom for my lump? Your right it did get richer and richer the aa man used a quarter of a tank just trying to get it going.. That's when he gave up.. If it is the loom and ecu I'm out for the year now got other things to be spending cash on.. I must admit I regret doing the b18 I should of cut my losses and broke the dam thing.. Back on the trusty bike for me that's never let me down
Can I put any loom on my car as long as the ecu matches the loom? I think mines a 1991 but I maybe able to get the loom and ecus off a 1995 would this be ok?
Last edited by Nottswoody; 14-03-2014 at 19:45.
So iv got it back in the garage and had a look around iv now got the throttle position sensor "clicking" well it clicks when closed but not when wide open. And again I can't see anything visually wrong the ecu doesn't "smell burnt" like last time..
Suggestions on a postcard pleaseI really don't want to go through everything again
Next question before I rip things apart I have an after market adjustable fuel reg now when I turn it over it hits 40psi then 20 while turning the engine so could that be at fault it was new but a cheap one. Or is that the ecu telling it to release?
Have you checked the part number on the injectors to confirm they are standard?
You can use either loom for later ecu's.
For 1/4 tank just trying to get it going is crazy, if ecu outputs are blown the injectors stay fully open, worth smelling through the oil filler cap if there's been bore washing and fuel in the sump.
Tb sensor clicks just as it opens and just before it shuts, same position.
Whenever the fuel pump is running the pressure in the rail should be 3bar at idle. Ecu doesn't control pressure.
Had it running tonight haz and I'm afraid it's the same as before running 10s I ha it running with the green ecu and it ran lean and 2.5 revs put the orange back on it ran 10s. The injectors are 480 injectors I got them off a friend who's running bigger now.. Iv realised I now have to give up lock it away and save for standalone or break it.. I'm done with it to be honest so as my other post I'm looking for squirt standalone or what Evers out there. But either way I'm out for the year now. Actually have hate for the dam thing
Real shame its still got the problem, thought you got there in the end too.
I know what its like though I've had cars like this that just refuse to be fixed and you get so pissed off with them
Even though its possible to get it going with the standard ecu I still think standalone is always the best way to go with these engines, Schwartz went standalone (megasquirt) and never regretted it and Waddies engine made huge power for the boost on a relative standard engine with standalone ecu
These cars do drag you down (trust me been there) if you stick with it the set up will work wonders in the end
Can everyone get the feelers out for me because I haven't a clue were to look and what for. I really can't afford efi prices at the minute. Someone must have one stashed away? Because it now becoming a pain I no longer love this car any more breaking it is now an option.Real shame its still got the problem, thought you got there in the end too.
I know what its like though I've had cars like this that just refuse to be fixed and you get so pissed off with them
Even though its possible to get it going with the standard ecu I still think standalone is always the best way to go with these engines, Schwartz went standalone (megasquirt) and never regretted it and Waddies engine made huge power for the boost on a relative standard engine with standalone ecu
These cars do drag you down (trust me been there) if you stick with it the set up will work wonders in the end
Right then a few questions before I start taking this shit apart again..
Dose it matter what flywheel I have/ number of teeth
Dose it matter what block I have?
Can I use any matching loom and ecu with any of the above?
I'm thinking is it because I may have a miss match of parts and ecus and loom
Before I start buyin more parts I need some help in answers for the above..
So far iv seen about 5 different ecu colors it's all above me and driving me mad.
Has anyone got an idiots guide to b18ft
If using a green ecu do you have the matching blue one?
Only matching needs to be flywheel, ecu's and afm.
Pre 91, orange ecu's (dual layer timing ecu), 007 afm.
91 onwards, maroon ecu's (sometime orange too but single layer timing ecu), 021 afm.
Last models green and blue ecu's (same as maroon, slightly more aggressive timing, more fuel efficient)
Early ecu's had 2 lives in loom, later ecu's had one live and bridged internally (pin 5 and 6 timing ecu so early looms can be used on all, later looms with early ecu's need an extra live.
Other colours may not be turbo ecu's and/or not as common such as European with more emission based maps etc.
Later 215mm flywheel is 60-2, I forget what early 200mm is, but think that's the same, the difference is the missing tooth/tdc position thus offset timing map to suit.
Also loom wants tdc sensor to suit (2 or 3 pin).
Head, block, crank, rods, pistons all same. Differences are cam, flywheel, clutch, turbo and elbow, ecu's and afm.
Really I always suggest buying everything from one running car to guarentee it's all compatible, and why scoff prefers to modify an existing ecu rather than exchange.
Cheers haz so basically I'm ****ed from the start
My block says b18ft 107 c011084 on the plate beneath the oil breather yet another pals says b18ft 107 0056266 and he has the same orange ecu as me and loom he's willing to sell me but he's asked me to count the teeth on my flywheel which is going to be a mission.
What would you say do for the best? There's only the loom it's self I haven't actually changed everything else has changed apart from the flywheel of course..
Can you not borrow and overlay his loom loose around your engine to see if there's any difference. Change one thing at a time and buy whichever sorts the faults?
He's not actually a friend it's more a case of it the only loom iv found in months. I got the loom already stripped to begin with so having a full volvo loom and starting again may be a good idea.. Hell why not iv tried everything else..
All of your parts mate are from an early Volvo car (pretty sure), the flywheel is the smaller 200mm one as it had/has my old clutch from my gt on it (did I sell you the clutch too I can't remember). I've only ever used a 215mm flywheel/clutch combo and that was in my old van so 100% you got the smaller one in there
With that flywheel i gave you the early loom and orange ecus with correct MAF unit so you should be ok in that department mate, everything should be matched up.
Hope it helps out abit mate, I know it is a pain in the backside when mismatching parts so tried to give you everything from one set up or same years
Cheers mark.. Saves me messing around trying to count teeth nope I didn'tt buy the clutch I have my green box volvo one on there.. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy that loom off the chap. I know the flywheel is lightened a fare bit it's just baffling me how it can do this three times now
Do you think it could be a prob the way I have it wired into the car haz says he would of done it by the drivers side. I have it by the passenger side into the fuse box and I also used the block of doom or what ever it's called do you think I should wire it in another way?
If you got the really light flywheel thats my old original one which is a 200mm flywheel (came off the car i broke for my engine)
How do you mean you done it to the left side? If you mean how you routed it around the bay i ran mine on the drivers side and into the bulkhead
We ran mine up the drivers wing then into the bulkhead on the passenger side and cut the aei wires and joined the live from the old fuel pump wires in the fuse box bypassing the old fuel relay if that makes sense
Paul just for the record i wired as folows; B18ft wiring has been connected to the old fuel pump relay wires as relay wasn't needed in this conversion. The oe plug of doom is only used for the ancillary parts ie starter motor, oil pressure/level, charging.
None of this should cause issue to running of engine.
Wiring loom was layed into engine bay as supplied adn there was a choose to run loom through bulkhead on either drivers or passenger side, it looked neater to run across with strut brace from drivers to passenger side and then in to area once occupied by aei.
The original aei wiring is only utilised for the feed the rev counter.
As he said
Right then
Ecu and loom I can get is matching but on my throttle sensor on the loom there is 5 wires on a 6 pin switch.. On this loom which is still orange ecu it has 6 on a 6 pin switch will it be ok? I hope so as it's the only loom in the land
Never thought I'd have to be importing parts for a bloody5 well the volvo parts
Last edited by Nottswoody; 21-03-2014 at 21:46.
Now chatting to guys in Germany and holland... These parts are rare
Even when I was playing with them parts were hard to get, I think most of the cars were scrapped before the conversion was popular and they could be stripped of there useful bitsNow chatting to guys in Germany and holland... These parts are rare
Grab what you can I say!
Just waiting for him to 2nd reply we have to go through a translatorbut we're getting there with pics on through fb..
I'm quite interested to see how this goes, be nice to know there are still spares kicking around for the old girls
Hi Paul,
Yes indeed there is news. I have one 92er turbo cable harness but it must be dismantled and that takes some time. Think about a week due to my regular job. Price: € 100,00 without postage.
Do you also need another orange jetronic wit compatible ECU (I have a purple Robou-modded ECU, but that ECU costs € 250,00.
Greetz,
Wow
Bloody hell that's a lot of money
I can see me buying a 480 at this rate or just breaking mine it's really boring the shit outa me now..
Still no luck on getting a loom seems the volvo 480 massive don't take too kindly to us 5 owners having there engines.. The quest and request continues
Might have abit of luck mate, while emptying the spare garage I think I found what appears to be a Volvo loom. Found it in a box tucked under 2 other boxesStill no luck on getting a loom seems the volvo 480 massive don't take too kindly to us 5 owners having there engines.. The quest and request continues
I will have to get it out and check it over and see what type it is too
First ray of sunshine
what clutch size does the engine have?
The 200mm standard green box volvo I had it on my c1j only for about 1000 miles so reused it with the volvo lump
purple and orange ezk's will fitt , the loom has to have 3 wires @ tds. the fuel ecu needs to be a LH 2.2 Jettronic.
i 've found some1 who has both versions as mention in the pm
1988 volvo 480 turbo
1989
1991
Last edited by sieger; 01-04-2014 at 12:53.
That's brilliant could you explain tds?
crank shaft sensor, now iḿ not sure anymore how many wires it has to have
Last edited by sieger; 01-04-2014 at 15:35.
Pm for you chapcrank shaft sensor, now iḿ not sure anymore how many wires it has to have
Right guys iv had another response..
Hi Paul,
Yes indeed there is news. I have one 92er turbo cable harness but it must be dismantled and that takes some time. Think about a week due to my regular job. Price: € 100,00 without postage.
Do you also need another orange jetronic wit compatible ECU (I have a purple Robou-modded ECU, but that ECU costs € 250,00.
Greetz,
Joep
Now willing to ship to me in the uk for £280 what you think?
Shipping cost are Max €20 .
Did you het an quote from Orlando ?
That's quite a number mate, you could almost build a mega squirt ms1 and loom for that
He's not responded bud. This is from another Dutch guy
Seems I've missed a bit. The way the loom is wired is ok, connection wise, the route is not ideal. Running loom through metal without grommets where it can rub through will eventually become a problem. Have you sorted the rough bit by aei? The reason I run the loom the way I do is because that's how it wants to land naturally. Campus battery layout works even nicer, maybe mojo can put a pic of his up?
250 for an ecu is crazy, that's a rich pruen modded one too. The one I supplied is modded so not required. I'm on about the black timing one, which I've yet to come across a faulty one, unless it's been 'played' with. You seem to be having issues with the fuel one. Loom differences are tdc connection and timing ecu power
Remove your loom and post it to me, I'll fully strip and test it. Send me ecu's and afm too and I'll try them for you and go from there. Just mark up which one is goosed, the one that's on its way out etc.
You really need to test and eliminate what you think is wrong with what you have, otherwise you'll just keep on buying bits you may not need.
Sometimes you can be given advice that can be wrong because the advisor doesn't have all the info, like when the belt cut into the loom, not obvious but without seeing the car no one would to suggest looking for it
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