no coolant flow to exp tank from turbo?

[tall_enough]

First post!

(Sorry - realise should have posted in tech. Moderator pls feel free to move if you can!)

Hi All. Very happy new member - a quick browse through old posts answered a number of my most obvious queries, so eg I am now not worrying too much about my red water temp warning light being on cos I gather that is probably bad connections. Will try to improve them when I have been able to remove the various coolant hoses blocking access to the temp sensor.

But I still have some mysteries you guys might be able to help me with.

I have a 1986 Series 1 R5GTT, pretty much entirely original. Turbo boost never tweaked etc. Have owned since 1990, much loved but shamefully neglected in last 10 yrs.

Main issue is cooling - temp slowly creeps up so I have to switch off above 3rd line (ie 2/3 of total on gauge). I suspect my main issue is bleeding but may be others.

My rad fan switch needs replacing, but I have bypassed so fan always runs for now.

I've used radflush and nothing alarming came out. Tiny bit of scum in expansion tank but I doubt enough to indicate gasket probs.

Rad does get hot (fairly evenly I think) so coolant is being circulated after a fashion at least.

Expansion is through-flow type with water cooled turbo i think (looks like Fig 12.13 in Haynes manual).

2 main odd things are -
1) top rad hose bleed nipple does not seem to bleed anything, even when engine is warm (and stat is open) or if I lift expansion tank. Other 2 bleed nipples on smaller coolant pipes above pump bleed nicely.
2) I don't seem to be getting any flow into the expansion tank when engine is running, which I'm sure it used to. It flows in and out ok when filled or when engine is hot and fluid expands, but no apparent through flow from turbo

I did try removing stat at one point in case that was getting in the way (on basis that more rad cooling would be good) but since put back in, I noticed it doesn't have a bleed hole. I thought about drilling one as some have, but my drill bit wasn't up to it so I have left for now... Did observe on refitting that top hose staying lukewarm at first then it and rad got decently hot around 2nd line (ie 1/3 of max) on gauge, so I think it is opening OK with temp.

Does the above make sense to anyone? Maybe top hose bleed nipple is somehow blocked? (If so, can it be replaced without changing whole hose?) Can it really be that turbo coolant path is completely blocked, or could water pump not be pumping round one part of circuit?

Any thoughts much appreciated.

[casper]

Try forming an air tight sealwith your mouth over the expansion tank and blow to pressurize the system whilst opening the bleed nipple,see if owt comes out.

[Alan]

Unsure, but welcome to the club. Your car sounds great. Do you have any pictures to share

[chris]

Get your exspansion bottle and unclip it then lift it up as high as you can and undo nipples it tells you to do that in haynes manual give it a try buddy it works on mine everytime

[Brigsy]

Turbo coolant jacket can get blocked up so might be worth checking. That would cause issues with cooling.

Id personally try bleeding it again, try poking a screwdriver down the bleed nipple hole to see if its gunked up? Do it when engine is not running, they don't like been opened on a hot/running engine.

There is a possibility the rad is blocked too, don't rule that out if its been stood a long time.

[TopCat]

Try changing your thermostat mate. Drain your coolant and flush it thurroughly. Then go from there I'd suggest.

That's where I'd start anyway.

[Kris M]

The water jacket on my old turbo got corroded up And didn't let the coolent pass through it. The cooling then backed up at the blockage and would create excess pressure in the system

[andybond]

Knock out the loop to the water jacket on the turbo and retest ...

[Robbo]

[tall_enough]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Thanks for speedy responses everyone. Will try looking at turbo cooling jacket (if I can figure out how to do that...) and have another bleeding go.

Couple of pix in my album now.

[Tony Walker]

bridge the two coolant pipes to the turbo with a piece of pipe/tube
would be interesting to see your engine bay to be honest as the ph1s were usually non water cooled turbos.

[Matt Cole]

Most likely air seporator pot blocked. Black canister down by the water pump.

[Brigsy]

It wont have a degas pot matt its a ph1, assuming the pipework is o.e

[Mart]

3rd/10pm line is perfectly fine. On an o.e setup the rad' fan should kick in around that line.

The dash clocks aren't calibrated per se, and how accurate will they/the sensors be after all these years.

Get the fan working as it should be, and maybe give the rad'/coolant circuit a complete flush through.

J.D

[Tony Walker]

3rd/10pm line is perfectly fine. On an o.e setup the rad' fan should kick in around that line.

The dash clocks aren't calibrated per se, and how accurate will they/the sensors be after all these years.

Get the fan working as it should be, and maybe give the rad'/coolant circuit a complete flush through.

J.D

[tall_enough]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Thanks again for all your input. Amazing response.

See engine pic. Sorry if bit blurred - it's a bit nippy out there tonight...

White cable is of course a temp rad fan switch bypass.

[Logg]

Welcome to the mad house.

Love the car good luck getting all sorted out.

The phase one GTT seems to get better looking with each passing year. To think 14-15 years ago I used to laugh at them cause they looked like an xrP00 now they're a damn sexy box on wheels.

[Trevhib]

bridge the two coolant pipes to the turbo with a piece of pipe/tube
would be interesting to see your engine bay to be honest as the ph1s were usually non water cooled turbos.

AFAIK the later Ph1's all had water cooled turbos Tony (although it didn't change the ph1 OE coolant setup a great deal). Looking at the pic above, that's factory.

In fact based on experience I'd say more Ph1's had water cooled turbos than not but that's not important.

[Matt Cole]

It wont have a degas pot matt its a ph1, assuming the pipework is o.e

Doh, your right mate, although i didnt know which setup it hjad with reference to the PH1.5.

If theres no degass pot then its not that!

[tall_enough]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I'm pretty sure it does have a water-cooled turbo - pipe leading into turbo from exp tank is just visible in photo.

There is also a mysterious small black canister between the water pump and the anti perc feed tube - just visible in photo below the 2 bleed nipples and the anti-perc tube (with the white temp rad fan switch bypass cable runnign just over the top).

Haven't had a chance to investigate that yet (will do at the w/e) but I'm guessing that is the degas pot.

[Trevhib]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

I'm pretty sure it does have a water-cooled turbo - pipe leading into turbo from exp tank is just visible in photo.

Yep, that's what we're saying, and that it's factory

[Tony Walker]

AFAIK the later Ph1's all had water cooled turbos Tony (although it didn't change the ph1 OE coolant setup a great deal). Looking at the pic above, that's factory.

In fact based on experience I'd say more Ph1's had water cooled turbos than not but that's not important.

Thanks learn something everyday

[Kris M]

Loving an original ph1...soooo retro and original !!

[Kris M]

I'm in Swindon mate. Where about in bath are you? Il happily come over and give the car a good once over and give you a few pointers if you'd like?

[tall_enough]

New poster! (less than 10 posts)

Hi Kris. Very kind offer, thanks. I can see you've done a great job with your own ph1.

I live 5 mins SE of M4 Jct 18 N of Bath. I have a tricky weekend cos wife away and 2 kids to ferry around to all sorts. Perhaps best I try a couple of the things already suggested when I can fit them in, and cry for help when I get stuck again?

[Kris M]

No probes I'm only 10 mins from jct 17 at Chippenham so not far at all......I'm snowboarding this week but yeah, any other time just drop me a PM and I'll give you a hand mate

[tall_enough]

OK and the news is... sadly I've realised I'm not getting enough time to spent sorting the car so I need to sell so someone else can take care of it.

Update

• coolant is now circulating, though may need more cleaning out for full cooling efficiency
• boot lid hinge partially seized, which has caused some damage to at least one of the hinges
• otherwise as before
• only 2 owners ever - I've owned since 1990!
• 60,500 miles only
• plenty frayed around the edges, but -
• an almost entirely original Phase 1 R5. Could be (re)turned into something rather special

I will be posting it for sale - but let me know if anyone is interested. I only want to sell it to someone who is going to restore it in its original spirit...

Andrew