Cheers DaveOriginally Posted by Dave Reed
thats a really nice offer. It has been off the road for years so I wont ruin your saturday eve by coming down.
You about Sunday or during the week maybe??
Cheers Dave
You about Sunday or during the week maybe??
if the inlets not to hot im.sure wd40 will b ok.....it mite b actual connection.inside the connector of the tdc wire.....i changed the head an gasket on my mates 5.....
couldnt get her to even fire up was really puzzled an on verge of making a tit of myself lol...
got him to.get a new tdc sensor an bosh she went first time...
Well i will dig out my spare tdc lead tomorrow and give it a go. It cant hurt.if the inlets not to hot im.sure wd40 will b ok.....it mite b actual connection.inside the connector of the tdc wire.....i changed the head an gasket on my mates 5.....
couldnt get her to even fire up was really puzzled an on verge of making a tit of myself lol...
got him to.get a new tdc sensor an bosh she went first time...
Also mate take off lobster and pour a small amount of fuel in and see if it runs longer ie 15/20ml the engine is that basic as long as assembled correctly it can only be timing, leads, tdc or carb related boss
Cheers mate.
Cheers Dave
You about Sunday or during the week maybe??
Ill be off shift Tuesday, so if your around during the day and you haven't sorted it just give me a shout.. Then we can really cock it all up hahaha
Ill pm u my number.
if the inlets not to hot im.sure wd40 will b ok.....it mite b actual connection.inside the connector of the tdc wire.....i changed the head an gasket on my mates 5.....
couldnt get her to even fire up was really puzzled an on verge of making a tit of myself lol...
got him to.get a new tdc sensor an bosh she went first time...
WD40 won't really work, get some carb cleaner, although again will be very hard to tell if it's leaking as you can't get the car to run.
Mixture screw should be wound all the way in, then 1 1/2 turns out (if I remember correctly) make sure the o ring is in place and also that the nib hasn't snapped of.. Again though, this wouldn't stop the car from running.
Cheers again Dave
I'll have a mess about again with it today.
Am going to put my spare tdc lead on and my old carb. U never know !!
Confusion reigns supreme!!!!!
I put some fuel in the top of the carb-same old story. Puff and bangs...........
Took the carb off and found an old one that I havent run for a good 8-9 years.
The original carb looked fine-mixture screw ok with rubber on.
I put the old carb on and plumbed it up. Cleaned out the idle jet. Started up the 5 and it did the same thing as before. Popped, banged, wouldnt run correctly.
So I got a little annoyed at this and ran the engine at 4k rpm for about 2 mins. The engine warmed up to operating temp and I let go off the accelerator cable. The engine dropped to 2k rpm and idled at this. I dropped off the idle speed to 1000rpm and it continued idling ok??!!??
I checked the engine temp and it was really high so I turned the engine off. Seems like the new thermostat didnt open. But thats the least of my worries.
So I have left it to cool down for the moment. Pretty happy it started and idled but not sure what I did to fix it?
Any ideas?? Maybe a blockage in the exhaust that has cleared with the high speed running????
When you build a complete new built engine you must rev to 4000 rpm for a good 5 mins you should of done this straight away mate thats y uv had probs
Sorry forgot it will run hot as its a fresh build for now remove stat so it can be run up good
How come ?
?!
I took the thermostat out (short term fix) and ran the engine up. It's awful to start and it still pops and bangs??? But once warmed up it idles at 1000rpm.
It's lumpy and surging though ?? Also the exhaust is popping and farting quite a bit. Overfuelling possibly??
I have just ordered an afr aem uego off scoff which should help me.
Does it just sound like a fuelling issue??
Who on earth told you that?
Hi Liam
Replying to your PM and aem order, thanks.
Lumpy and rough running is more likely from it being lean than rich so check for air leaks. If you've changed the breather pipe work make sure the restrictor is still in between the back of the manifold and the T piece near the rocker cover. Leaking inlet manifold gasket or carb base gasket could also be to blame. I once saw a washer left between the manifold and the gasket causing a big leak. Also worth checking there is no leaks through the brake servo. Maybe just clamp those pipes at the back of the manifold and see if idle and revving improves. What effect does applying choke have ? Does it smooth things out or make it worse ?
Did you check compression ? maybe the valves are not sealing as they should causing poor running at low engine speed.
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