ive been putting this off for ages but i need to really do it as the gasket is pooped and i have a new one so could someone give me pointers please
thanks
matt
ive been putting this off for ages but i need to really do it as the gasket is pooped and i have a new one so could someone give me pointers please
thanks
matt
Erm.. First of all.. Try removing the manifold
my thread title says removal of manifold hence the question for pointers on how to remove it????
I would get a new head gasket and do the lot. I can't imagine the manifolds are much fun to remove with the head in situ.
Lol.. Only kidding mate
Does the Haynes Manual not have a write up on it? Personally, I wouldn't change the headgasket whilst doing the Manifold if you haven't blown the headgasket.
i know your just keeping me on my toesOriginally Posted by BriC
Lol.. Only kidding mate
I agree not an easy task to undo the bolts to the manifold with head/engine in place. Remove engine or head to do. Unless you want to try with it in place. More than likely easy to remove downpipe to get easier access to the bolts and insert socket to undo. Good luck there though
I could have sworn I took my manifold off before the head, when I changed a headgasket on my old GTT. Might be wrong though
That would have been a very awkward way of doing the head gasket
Hhm.. Was a long time ago. Can't remember
I think it can be done but bet it's a right bastid. For the sake of a £20 head gasket and a bit more work it'll save a lot of stress.
I always do the inlet/exhaust manifold gasket in situ, don't disturb the head gasket unless its necessary, more expense imo. Easy enough job to do just time consuming.
I have removed the manifolds whilst engine is in situ it is a pain in the arse but if you have got child like hands like me and not big sausage mits you have a little more room to manouvere and get to the awkward nuts.
so how do i do it without touching the head gasket??
A decent ratchet spanner always helps with the awkward nuts
Whilst your doing it id fit some spring washers/decent locking nuts on aswell, the manifold gaskets usually go due to the nuts coming loose imo. Also be careful if the studs withdraw themselves from the head, its easy to cross/knack the thread refitting them, a tap set comes in handy to chase/clean the threads out.
Remove turbo, carb, throttle cable, boost hoses etc. If that ain't enough advice get a haynes manual
- take the carb off.
- remove boost hoses
- remove all inlet manifold pipes.
- remove the plate that sits on the inlet man and also the 2 bits that sit ontop of the plate.
- undo the downpipe from turbo elbow
- undo the nuts that secure the inlet manilfold to the head first[will give you more room]
- undo the ex man nuts.
- take manifold gasket off.
- clean surfaces,making sure no old gasket is left anywhere.[i do this by removing the manifold studs and running a stanley blade across the head & manifolds surface]
- refit in reverse order.
i have a haynes dude but its always in gobboldy goop hence why i asked the question as many of you guys have tonnes of experiance in removing bits and bobsA decent ratchet spanner always helps with the awkward nuts
Whilst your doing it id fit some spring washers/decent locking nuts on aswell, the manifold gaskets usually go due to the nuts coming loose imo. Also be careful if the studs withdraw themselves from the head, its easy to cross/knack the thread refitting them, a tap set comes in handy to chase/clean the threads out.
Remove turbo, carb, throttle cable, boost hoses etc. If that ain't enough advice get a haynes manual
as always dude cheers for the advice.....
top bloke!
I always take the turbo off, as the oil feed/return always need to be disconnected, its only 4 more nuts & makes it a lot easier to lift the manifold out
is it manegable to get from the top of the car and take it off or will i need to come from underneath aswell?
ive never had to go from underneath, its just abit arkward but you can do it from the top, helps if you've got lanky fingers
nice one i will get on it once ive been to the gym
but raj you may get a text if i fook up
If your doing it with the head in situ as you say then you'll need to get at it from top, side, front, back, bottom, inside, outside, under, over......... it's a right pain in the arse.
You'll get the first 6 bolts out no worries, then for the rest you'll either wish you had taken the head off, or wish you had 4 wrists on one arm so you can get the spanner in under the exhaust man' and above the starter heat shield. Good luck
im gunna turn me phone offnice one i will get on it once ive been to the gym
but raj you may get a text if i fook up
just take your time,dont rush it.
tried today and was a nightmare broke more things then fixed then it has gone dark so gave up and started to put it back together. did find 3 bolts missing so hopefully that was the issue if not will have ago when its warmer
It sure is a nightmare... one of the first things I did completely on my own, without the help of a mechanic, was changing the standard exhaust manifold with a tubular manifold. And I left the head in place! It's doable, but probably better to take the head off
Must only be me that thought it wasnt too bad changing my manifold gasket ???
Must only be me that thought it wasnt too bad changing my manifold gasket ???
Yeah but you had the engine out....
took me 3-4 hours to strip from running , to having it running again
Yeah but you had the engine out....
No i didnt
simple aint it kris
you got it
Honestly its not as bad as you think, for the arkward bolts i use a small 13mm socket on an extension which gets to them easily and the 2 under the carb are easy to get to with a 13mm spanner.
Do take everything off the manifold as it makes it easier to work round but apart from that the hardest part wil be if you had a siezed bolt/nut.
How many bolts are on the exhaust manifold?
How many bolts are on the exhaust manifold?
around 14 i may stand corrected
gsf gasket no. is r11800,inlet and exhaust manifold gasket,and get a 1/4 drive 13mm socket with a 5"extension and ratchit!!
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