ive brought a nos kit which is the best to use it ? with a micro switch and if so where is best to mount it, also where is best to connect into the fuel line for the solenoid
ive brought a nos kit which is the best to use it ? with a micro switch and if so where is best to mount it, also where is best to connect into the fuel line for the solenoid
also will the fuel pump give ok pressure for the nos wet kit
ps this is the kit i have http://www.holley.com/05130NOS.asp
aren't they expecting 3 bar fuel pressure? if so you'll need another pump and pressure regulator.
YOU HAVE BOUGHT AN EFI KIT M8??? are u on efi or carb?
looking at your profile carb....so that kit no use m8...as far as i know...sorry.
Oops, to the classifieds it is
Could you not just swap the solenoid? Also as the kits US you need to check your local nos filler has the imperial fitment, which i guess these days most should do by now...
its uk just that was the first link i found,
Originally Posted by bye_all_c_ya
joker
whats differant? you have a bottle, 2 soleniods and a fogger on most basic kits
which is what i have as long as i keep at good fuel pressure i dont see any differance ??
im going to run its own fuel pump and regulator if needed, which i dont think i will need to ?
if soleniods are not the same can somebody show me a link to what im ment to have
ps every carb based nitrous kit i found used a base plate for the carb ?
http://www.noswizard.com/product_list.php?id=2
these are the ones i run on a ZEX kit i had a carb plate made to fit in-place of the black plastic spacer under the carb, also i run a progressive controller so the pulseiods work so much better
there is a guy in wombourne who fills mine up as he has both uk and us adapters
if you need any help setting it up give me a shout
ian
Don't see any reason as to why you can't use this kit??? Our cars run at high fuel pressure when on boost. U will need to no what your constant fuel pressure is when on full boost, once you no this then you can select the correct jetting from the table.
I've never done a single fogger kit, so don't no what line they pick up from the stock fuel line setup, but a few on hear have done it so can't be too hard to find the info out? When I done mine I fitted a seperate pump and regulator, but that was only because I went direct port.
Hope this helps fella.
mate i may take you up on that offer
[quote=Dave Reed;78736]Our cars run at high fuel pressure when on boost. U will need to no what your constant fuel pressure is when on full boost, once you no this then you can select the correct jetting from the table. quote]
it's 4psi irrespective of boost
mate i may take you up on that offer
no probs mate just pop down the unit
[quote=Andrew Cooke;78746]Don't think you'll find it is as it's a rate of rise regulator hence the small boost hose that goes to it....
[quote=Dave Reed;78757]flow is governed by the pressure across an orifice, that 4psi across the orifice is irrespective of boost, no boost and 4psi fuel pressure, or 20psi boost and 24psi of fuel pressure still gives you an equivalent fuel flow of 4psi. You won't get more fuel flow on boost than off boost.
now hush your gums and dont argue
[quote=Andrew Cooke;78796]so are we are saying if i t- piece into the fuel line for the fuel soleniod after the fuel after the regulator it should give me correct pressure????
anyone wanna say if i need to use a micro switch????
Thats what i do with and uprated fuel pump of course and micro switch yes if you want it at full throttle or push button on the dash/steering wheel if you want to go all Fast And Furious Styley.......
im using a micro switch on the throttle pedal (or you could put it at the carb i guess) but mine is running through a progressive controller
ian
[quote=Andrew Cooke;78796]Now you've confused meAre you talking about before the reg? or the supply to the carb? Cause I no my pressure to the carb is about 30psi when on boost and only 4 off......
what size pressure gauge do i need to check the pressure 15 psi or 100 psi ?
[quote=Dave Reed;79122]The carb needs the fuel pressure to be a small amount above boost at all times, to keep enough fuel flowing into the float bowl while still allowing the needle jet to function. that means no boost, fuel pressure (at the carb inlet) 4psi, 24 psi boost, fuel pressure is 28psi. Because the nitrous system fuel jet is feeding into the inlet manifold, the jet only "sees" a pressure of 4psi. If your system is meant for efi fuel pressure then it ain't gonna be rich enough.....
Now you've confused me
So who finally came up with the answer of the perfect carbed nitrous setup?
im also looking at getting an accelerator pedal setup for pod runs etc to keep the big blower spooling and on boost...... I expect the engine to make 230 ish anyway and would only be looking for 25-35hp shot just unsure of what setup to get.......
[QUOTE=Big Jim;79214]ive got an adjustable fpr capable of 7psi and a real time gauge, ive previously read that the EFi boys run separate fuel tanks and pums etc but for the carb with a decent jetting and 7psi of fuel I take it the ph1 pump will cut the mustard.
See top left in pic
From what I know. ( been told by the nitrous wizard) the difference between a carb and efi is the ratio of fuel to nitrous.So who finally came up with the answer of the perfect carbed nitrous setup?
im also looking at getting an accelerator pedal setup for pod runs etc to keep the big blower spooling and on boost...... I expect the engine to make 230 ish anyway and would only be looking for 25-35hp shot just unsure of what setup to get.......
Carb being 50/50 or as close as. The fuel line is t pieced into the fuel line after the regulator so will have the same pressure as the original all the time. Depended on the jet size will depend on the actual fuel quantity it uses.
All kits are supplied with a 25hp jet then 50 etc
I'm using a controller to control my nitrous intake.
The wizard of nos kits all come with an accelerator switch to only allow the nitrous to come on when on full throttle.
I'd rather it come on then too but with a little more control due to the engine only being a 1.4
My aim is to get my big t25 lag eliminated and hopefully in the new year I'll be able to test it out .
Also what's with the air cooler with the pwr cooler? I find mine works really well on its own. I have mine there too but lower to allow the water entry and exits to be on the top.So who finally came up with the answer of the perfect carbed nitrous setup?
im also looking at getting an accelerator pedal setup for pod runs etc to keep the big blower spooling and on boost...... I expect the engine to make 230 ish anyway and would only be looking for 25-35hp shot just unsure of what setup to get.......
2x pumps and 2x radiators for the cc scott? Is that what you mean?
What kit exactly did you get because the "carburettor" ones im looking at are mostly for bikes...... OR is that the way to go maybe?
Just seen this and sent the guy a PM with a couple of questions....
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...64&globalID=EB
This has everything I need I think. The controllers are 300 odd and the bottles are 300 odd too. Anf it looks like you can adjust the jetting to suit.
Please someone correct me if im wrong.
i messed with NOS a while ago, i had a wizards of nos kit. - only difference with the carb kit is the jet size as mentioned before. - plumb the Y piece into the carb top, mount the two solenoids on the bulkhead, T off the carb feed for the fuel.
only using NOS at WOT, so you need to know what boost you will be running + 4psi for the fuel pressure. adjust the jet sizes accordingly.
you will need a bottle heater to maintain the bottle pressure too.
also where are you gonna get the refills from.....?
EDIT- thread ressurection! Ignore me lol
IANMM says the man in wombourne but that was 4 years ago. I wonder where scoff does his?
Sorry dave did you explore this topic recently on another thread?
Yes that looks like a good cheap set up for what you get. Also it looks like it comes with two crossover injectors. You'll only need 1 for bhp up to 100 IMO.Just seen this and sent the guy a PM with a couple of questions....
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...64&globalID=EB
This has everything I need I think. The controllers are 300 odd and the bottles are 300 odd too. Anf it looks like you can adjust the jetting to suit.
Please someone correct me if im wrong.
You might also need to buy a bottle bracket
More nitrous pipe
And as mentioned a bottle heater. It is worth the extra money IMO.
You would then need to speaks to won or a reseller to get them to help you with jet sizing for your needs. It's a little trial and error to get it spot on.
The difference in the carb and injection is this
150c
Or the
150i
Here us a link to the carb one. As you can see it's the same. They just adjust mix to suit.
http://www.noswizard.com/car-nitrous...ms/sb150c.html
Kind of plus you run the charge cooler into an intercooler. As I mentioned my barrel charge cooler works really well with out this.
Made him an offer anyway, see what he says. The nos is for after the re-re-build is run in and the nodiz and custom T28 is fitted.
Erm.......
I had peeps I trust telling me to go big FMIC only or get a cossie one and play it by ear.....
I had peeps I don't know but value their knowledge saying the CC would cut the ice on its own.....
I had peeps telling me doing both would carb freeze!!!
So........ the CC goes on a switch so it could be left to heat up in case of freeze and I can always but cardboard or fashion a Perspex over guard for the FMIC if its too cold.
As sparkie has said if the big fan is on the coolant clio rad it makes everything uber cool on its own.
I suppose ive got 3 ways of cooling the engine and the boost temps which can only be a good thing as variety is the spice of life!
You are almost teeing yourself up for full EFI conversion Ash. They will love the ultra low temps and you wont get carb freeze !
To be fair andy all I need is one of them efi manifolds the irish chap is making, I think there is one for sale still on classifieds? Need to see if the nodiz is as good as the other usual standalones, I have the trigger wheel welded on and one of scoffs sensor and brackets.
Being the staunch carb traditionalist I am (ignore the nodiz) I wanna see if I can have some kind of title for the fastest carb'ed car as I don't have the millions scoff and glen had to compete at the level they are at. Being a somewhat newcomer to the scene with different ideas may provide more positive results on the carb, other than that bin it and get some injectors!!!!
ONCE that's all sorted time to uprate the gearbox and driveshafts lmao money money money!
No I responded to the OP, but it's 4 years old so deleted it.
I'm assembling a direct port kit to pop on to my forced induction throttle body conversion for the 21, looking at the carb kit i'd use a swirl pot with lift pump, feed the carb from the swirl with the OE pump looping back the return to the swirl pot, then use an EFI pump and reg set at 2.5 to 3 bar operating on the Nitrous arm switch, again looping back to the swirl pot. This keeps the fuel pressure nice and high for the nitrous fogger, independant system only operating when the NoS system is armed.
Overkill?
Not really you'll be doing it right that way IMO as your ticking all the boxes of possible failures being eliminated with that setup, id need to see what the crack is with mine at full boost in respect to the pressure drop. If you ram 7psi through it and recirculate it maybe would work but like ive said id have to monitor the fpr guage and fine tune! With sparkie involved and his already extensive knowledge of nos im sure a kit can be fashioned for less than 500.
Again like sparkie has said to me before setting it up is easy but finding a nitrous refill company is the difficult part!
Need to beat this to be fastest carb c1j. On par with glens old terminal speeds. Feck knows how they managed to get so much power
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UOyomyEakMI
Probably a liner
For 25 or 50hp it is
We probably didn't spend as much as you thinkIn Glenns case I guess the turbo and EFI were most expensive. Mine was pretty cheap too apart from the internals and turbo say. The rest is time and effort.
The difficulty with the carb is getting enough fuel in at high boost. It's a noticable restriction above 240hp or so too but it's been proven a couple of times that they will flow quite a bit more if you push. I think Gianni is mostly managing it with nitrous. A lot of it. To do the same you should install a seperate EFI fuel circuit with regulator. You'll need additional fuel injectors to run the carb much past 250hp. The same circuit can supply your nitrous system too. I think thats going to be the best way to go if you want to keep the carb.
Getting the engine to respond to a lot of boost and nitrous is the next challenge. You should look at putting in bigger exhaust valves and improving the exhaust ports. With nitrous you have a lot more exhaust gas to worry about. Leave the inlets alone. The choice of cam is important too. As off the shelf items go the BP270 is what you should be looking at, with a vernier. Some retard on the cam can make some shocking increases in HP at the expense of low RPM response.
Good luck
Would that be due to the exhaust valve being open later to vent more combustion material?
Or the inlet open later to fill more nitrous?
Is is the mixture with nitrous oxide in it more dense than normal petrol and air mixture?
Hmmm. Interesting. I sit in the other camp with regards to valves....surely the inlet is the biggest benefit by far? Getting the exhaust gas out is nowhere near as hard as getting the inlet gas in, for starters exhaust ports flow in the opposite direction to inlets... a large part of what determines the flow efficiency of inlet ports themselves is how well the port guides the air to fully utilise the entire circumference of the valve seat. In nearly all cases this can't be achieved because air travelling at high speed can't get round the short side bend in the port and just skips across the back of the valve head and tries to exit through the long side of the valve seat.
The exhaust port doesn’t fall foul of this…. The air already uses the full circumference of the valve seat by virtue of the fact it's going into the seat from all round the combustion chamber anyway. Provided the port itself is big enough then almost any design of exhaust port will flow at a good efficiency because the valve (seat) is being used effectively. Even the shape of the short side bend is not that critical because it's not having to guide the gas IN to a seat - all it's doing is guiding the gas into the port.
TL : DR- Exhaust valves work better, naturally. Hence inlet improvements being something I would prefer to focus on.
I would be very much interested to hear any rebuttle on the above, seeing as, y'know, I chucked three and a half thousand quid at a cylinder head that you're going to tune for me based on my "inlets are best" theory
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