I know this won't go down well with some of the ppeps on here or any other forum for that matter but I've raised the rear suspension on my 5 20mm, why have I done this, so I can get the stance closer to the factory setup, just abit lower and stiffer in an attempt to improve the handling, that and so I can soften the rear damper settings cus my spine won't take much more
U know those days when u should have stayed in bed, well when I put the engine back in the 5 I was must have been having 1 of those days as I just found I'd put the rear mount together wrong aswell as the brake pad inccedent of which we'll never talk.
Good news I've found what was causing the vibration, turns out I'd snapped 1 of the bolts that holds the wishbone in half, a new bolt and bye bye vibration
Now if I'd could just get the brakes working again and fix the oil leak (damn sealing paste) it'll be all good
Last edited by Os8472; 09-06-2009 at 22:54.
Seems Renault have replaced the old sump sealing paste with some new stuff, not cheap but it comes in a cool mini sealent tube, they claim it'll never leak, well only time will tell on that
To be honest matey I gave up buying Thixo from Renault ages ago couldn't be arsed to keep paying Renault prices so now just use Loctite sump sealant and it has never leaked on me yet and used it on a few sumps now with no probsOriginally Posted by Os8472
Save the pennis on one part for the 5 and then spend the saved pennis on another part of the 5
I use the mastixo paste, Only £6 a tube so not really expensive?
From what ive seen it sets better than most instant gasket, i had to lever my sump off after using it! I ran out of it when re-fitting my sump, Used the payen stuff i got with the bottom end set & thats started to leak..
£6.00 is that all it is
mine has got the GSF cork gaskets, and its not leaking a drop, which makes a nice change for my car lol
that is a change for yours, usally its its steam from the cracked liner lol
wheres the best place to get that from mate ???
Well that all singing all dancing sealing paste from Renault that they claim will never leak, leaked and very badly I might add, had I not had an eye on the oil pressure gauge I'd be writing about how I missed the french car show cus I was busy pulling my engine out to replace the fecked bearings
Fortunatly a mate gave me the last of his sealing paste and on the saturday morning I got the car up on axle stands and resealed the sump again, this time it was fine and it made it all the way to rockingham and back with no probs
Did you give the paste 24hrs to go off, Works fine for me...
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
superb photographs!!here ya go alex, HRK in da house...
is it a cap carbon on the WHITE GT ?
It had 48hrs to go off before I tryed it
You can tell I've finished running in the engine because on the way to and from FCS the 5 did 42.8mpg and today it just did 29.1mpgya gotta love the boost
turbo toaster? is this the same car that had the huge rs500 intercooler hanging out the front end a few years back?
Nope, it was near standard when I got it and its only had a forge front mount
Some times these cars really puzzle me, ever since I refirbed the brakes there has been what sounded like an air leak but I haven't been able to find it, today I spent a couple of hours getting a ferw jobs done ready for mapping on tuesday, plumb the wastegate upto the boost control solanoid, make up a new set of HT leads, adjust damper settings, adjust the timing.
Now the brakes seem normal again but I've done nothing to them, sometimes you gotta love these self repairing cars
Thats a different car mate
Just got home from a mapping session at Emerald, a quick chat to Dave and he sorted the timing issue I couldn't in just a few seconds (damn he's good) and then it was on with the mapping.
Just before I converted it to EFI it made 189bhp and 193ft lb at 20psi and here's the print out from the latest session
Yep thats right 120bhp and 125ft lb at 7psi and unfortunatly thats as far as we got due to a pin hole leak in the manifold gasket causing unstable idle and the fact I was sent non supressed HT leads instead of supressed leads causing a misfire at mid to high range, Dave felt it would be better to sort these out before trying to wind the boost up any further and risk somit breaking, I had to agree with him and returned home, but at 6grand with the wastegate open and the screamer unleashing HELL
not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost
yep but it should make more at that boost once I've fixed the air leak and replaced the HT leads but to be honest that map is just for day to day driving, the other 2 maps will be the power maps for track and drag, should be interesting to see what power they put outnot bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost
Hold onto your hats!!!not bad, that's 14hp up on a standard engine at that boost
You know theres only one toaster anyway!!
hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick againHold onto your hats!!!
You know theres only one toaster anyway!!
just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again
hey after nearly 8 months with only a 4500rpm rev limit and boost that does what ever it likes, it feels bloody quick again
just gotta do a couple of things and then I can wind it up and make some serious power again
go'go GO !!
You wouldn't believe how much fun I had with only 120bhp on the way home, god how I've missed being able to rag itgo'go GO !!
Last edited by Os8472; 05-07-2009 at 16:08.
Right I've changed the HT leads for the proper resistive jobs and there is a slight improvement but the air leak is defo causing problems but I've got a feeling I may have miss diagnoised where it is, till now I've been asuming the manifold gasket is leaking but what I forgot the brakes are still knackered.
So my first job is to drop into Renault monday afternoon and get a fresh master cyclinder seal as I think I may have screwed up the install of the last one.
Oh and by the way, SCREAMER PIPES RULE
Any further on Oli???
Wasn't the master cyclinder seal, next job, engine out, new servo and pray it works cus the dreaded MOT is up at the end of the month
you d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch
Really, but it'll still be a bitch to get the master cyclinder off and not cover myself in brake fluidyou d'ont need to take the engine out to change the servo just take the driveshaft off and it drops down and comes out under your wheel arch
yo dont need to undo any of the brake lines... 2x 13mm nuts and move the master cyl out the way
un bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead
Oh good, I've been looking for a way to waste some blood lolun bolt the master cylinder from the servo do not disconnect the brake lines pull the master cylinder up out of the way by bending the pipes then unbolt the servo from foot well undo pin from brake pedal push servo out it does come out with the master cylinder still connected but it is very very tight its alot less work than taking a engine out and you d'ont have to bleed the brakes just make your knuckles bleed instead
Damnit, last year just before the MOT I replaced the horn and the drivers side headlight as both were knackered, this just before the MOT both need replacing again as the horn had stopped working and the headlight has a bloody great hole in it from a large stone.
Fortunatly MarkyB came to my rescue with a spare headlight and horn, even more fortunatly I got my horn working againbut I did have to change the headlight
Yes its offical, the problem with my brakes was my doinglooks like I hadn't quite got the master cyclinder square on to the rod in the servo cus when I took it off the rod was sitting on the inside lip and doing nothing, oh well, live and learn, at least I have brakes again, but now I have another problem, seems I've made them to good, it locks all four wheels with hardly any effort, wonder if I can bodge a ABS system on to it
Fecking sparkies!!!
You can talk ya house basherFecking sparkies!!!
Glad you got it sorted fella -
Me too, the MOT is comin up fast and I was facing going to national day in my misses clio diesel, hardly a track weaponGlad you got it sorted fella -
have a brake have a kit kat....
Right since my car got resprayed my vin number on the strut top has been lost and with the MOT looming I thought best to do somit about it.
So a quick look on fleabay and 8 quid later a number/letter punch kit
add a piece of 1.6mm ally
and the V5 for the toaster
and here we have the beginings of a vin plate, gunna take abit of practice to get it right though
have you not took a look at this site.? im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!
edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate.
The vin number and the plate went missing during the respray.have you not took a look at this site.? im sure they will replicate any vin plate, i think they require proof of such and such though!
edit: doh! i thought you ment the vin plate
Very handy site that, espcially when I need to copy a motor
MOT day and for the first time in the 3years I've owned my GTT I decided to get a proper test done, no cutting corners, no oh thats close enough on the emissions kind of test, a proper one, done by the strictest tester I know.
Big mistake
Took him all of 45mins to come up with 5 major faults and 4 advisories
The failures:-
1) Sidelights seem to be more blue than white
2) The brake lights stay on perminatly
3) The number plate mount is insufficiant
4) CO2 emissions too high
5) Hydrocarbon emissions too high
The advisories:-
1) Near side wheel bearing has minor play
2) Minor oil leak
3) Near side rear tyre down to within 2mm of wear indicators
4) Near side rear wearing unevenly
First off the failures
1) I had normal sidelight blubs in the glove box. Done
2) I hadn't adjusted the brake light switch when I did the servo, a couple of turns. Done
3) 2 Tie wraps through the mesh in the front Grill. Done
4) & 5) Plugged in laptop and checked which load site it was sitting in at idle and reduced the ijector duration until the car was close to stalling. Done
That got it a pass, but I wasn't happy with advisories
1) The front wheel bearings were only a month old so out came the torque wrench, nope hadn't done it up enough, play gone. done
2) Cleaned the oil away and went for a blast at full throttle, no oil leaking. Done
3) & 4) ah well ya can't win em all, the tyres have done 4 trackdays and over 10,000miles
Anyway, the Toaster is now the most legal it has ever been since I bought it
Roll on national day
Oli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??
Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay.
This is the companyOli, you dont happen to have the phone number of the company who sold you the metal stamp kit do you??
Also you can buy blank vin plates on ebay.
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/magnifying.glasses.and.tools
Typical, for the first time in nearly fours years of owning the 5 I was a week away from national day with 100% confidence that it would make it with no problems
Spoke to soon, went out to it this morning and the battery was flat, dunno why, I was only driving it 4 hours before hand and my volt meter has been showing a constant 14volts since I got it back on the road, oh well on goes the charger, hopefully just a cold snap that it didn't like
All sorted, a quick top up of the battery fluid and a nice long charge of the mains and all is well again, even found time to dig out my track wheels, can't wait
Because I was lazy, I didn't make a support for the wastegate and as the inevitable happened, the weight cracked my manifold, fortunatly my mate Alex has already fixed and given me strict instructions to make a breacket so it doesn't crack again, so thats why I ordered 4 rose joint track rod ends for a gokart, why you may ask, so I can make this
1 End will bolt to the gear box directly below the wastegate and the other end goes on the end of 1 of the wastegates mounting bolts, I'm make 2 of these to connect to the wastegate and another 2 to take the weight of the turbo off the manifold aswell.
I've also got another pair coming but 1 with an left hand thread so I can make a adjustable altenator bracket that doesn't need 2 people to tighten it.
sounds a bit like my turbo support stick, and alternator tensioner
Are your joints all steel, or with PTFE liners?
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