God damn brakes

[djinuk]

Ok , when i brought my r5 the words outa the guys mouth were , its just had a set of brand new discs and pads all round. Now the guy was not lying, it really has, but they are shocking, and when braking the car squats on the front and pulls to the left , and slows down very slowley. Ive whipped the wheels off and found that the rear pads dont seem to be making full contact with the disc, leaving a nice rusty line around the middle, also the pads dispite being new really dont look in a great shape. No problem , i think ill just wang a set of new decent discs and pads.. wrong, every god damn bolt they touched is nicely rounded off, including the flexi pipes which are a mass of shiny choclate spec metal. I think really i need to give this damn thing a full revamp with decent bolts, new flexis and maybe the copper brake lines at the same time (on the rear) its just another damn thing.., ohhhh the joys

[Os8472]

It'll be worth the effort mate, you can't skimp on important stuff like brakes

[djinuk]

nah too right, any preferance on brakes for the r5? and where to buy.

[5alldaway]

standard brakes are good enough but how about some brembo max front discs, and standard pads?

available at the usual gsf

[Alex]

New callipers are reasonaly cheap aswell. Again, from GSF.

[fidos got a raider]

Standard disc and ferodo ds2500 pads are a good set up

[olidaviesuk]

Might be worth changing the brake fluid and flushing the system and refill and bleed with decent fluid - AP Racing 600 is a good start.. also check out the sliders are nicely lubed with copperslip on the front, and calipers aren't seized already should only cost about £25 and a couple of hours work (providing the previous owner hasn't snapped the bleed nipples) might make all the difference for ya

Rear brakes don't really do that much (in terms of stopping) other than keep the car in line, will probably find that its pulling to one side cos of a prob with the front brakes / suspension...

Ok , when i brought my r5 the words outa the guys mouth were , its just had a set of brand new discs and pads all round. Now the guy was not lying, it really has, but they are shocking, and when braking the car squats on the front and pulls to the left , and slows down very slowley. Ive whipped the wheels off and found that the rear pads dont seem to be making full contact with the disc, leaving a nice rusty line around the middle, also the pads dispite being new really dont look in a great shape. No problem , i think ill just wang a set of new decent discs and pads.. wrong, every god damn bolt they touched is nicely rounded off, including the flexi pipes which are a mass of shiny choclate spec metal. I think really i need to give this damn thing a full revamp with decent bolts, new flexis and maybe the copper brake lines at the same time (on the rear) its just another damn thing.., ohhhh the joys

[Andrew Cooke]

Might be worth changing the brake fluid and flushing the system and refill and bleed with decent fluid - AP Racing 600 is a good start.. also check out the sliders are nicely lubed with copperslip on the front, and calipers aren't seized already should only cost about £25 and a couple of hours work (providing the previous owner hasn't snapped the bleed nipples) might make all the difference for ya

Rear brakes don't really do that much (in terms of stopping) other than keep the car in line, will probably find that its pulling to one side cos of a prob with the front brakes / suspension...

I'm going to pull you up on using copperslip on the sliders - don't, copperslip isn't a lubricant, it's an anti-seize. Use a silicone lubricant.

[djinuk]

you say a silicon lubricant , you mean like wd40?

I need a pair of front caliper bolts (my second set ive needed now) the 18mm ones as mine are rounded, then i will get the old ones off, replace the front flexi lines, work the caliper + sliders and see where to go form there.

I will also give the full system a flush of brake fluid i think aswell to be safe, and see if the bleed nipples are free.

Any comments on teh bleeding of the system, do you have to bleed the rear compensator in anyway? and whats the best order of bleeding.

[UNICRONICUS]

I usually use the Gunson Eazi Bleed kit when I do any brakes on cars.

[Chris Hebden]

I usually use the Gunson Eazi Bleed kit when I do any brakes on cars.

Use any sort of eazi bleed just to make sure! I start from furthest working to the nearest, from the master cyclinder.

Andy "I'm going to pull you up on using copperslip on the sliders - don't, copperslip isn't a lubricant, it's an anti-seize. Use a silicone lubricant." How come? If something has an anti seeze effect isnt it going to keep things moving? Why do you reccommend silicone sealent, never had any experience with it so would like to know more on it as i often use copper slip for assembling brakes?

[Tiny Tim]

You'd be better off with the old fashioned 2 man bleeding system, but the eezi-bleed works pretty well if you're a loner.

[BriC]

You'd be better off with the old fashioned 2 man bleeding system, but the eezi-bleed works pretty well if you're a loner.

So, I guess it works pretty well for you?

[Tiny Tim]

So, I guess it works pretty well for you?

Wouldnt know, i've got a reliable car.


Stain.

[BriC]

But when you used it in the past, on your less reliable cars, it worked well, right? Being a loner and whatnot.

[Tiny Tim]

But when you used it in the past, on your less reliable cars, it worked well, right? Being a loner and whatnot.

A joke explained is a joke failed.


>Lose 300 points > Go to jail

[UNICRONICUS]

Yes, for loners it is perfect. When bleeding the rears I think you have to close the rear compensator valve (i.e. push it up towards the body) so all of the pressure is going to both rear wheels (can someone confirm this please?).

[BriC]

p0wn3d.

[djinuk]

i am presuming then the rear brake compensator dosent need bleeding itself in anyway. Mine just looks battered , not sure if i dare touch it.

[Trevhib]

If copper grease is an anti-sieze and you want to stop the sliders from siezing, why is it not a good idea to use it? I'm not challenging the sentiment, more asking because I've seen it used so often by others (and therefore by me), without any problem?

DJ - WD-40 will not be any good. You need a silicone lube. You know, like Playmate but for cars.

[Sparkie]

the pads sieze in the sliders due to dust build up, not due to the two parts physically getting stuck together.

copper slip, stops metal parts corroding together.

grease keeps the two parts sliding over each other.


its not silicone sealant either!

[Chris Hebden]

its not silicone sealant either!

Get us out of the suspence then Sparkie????????????????????

[Sparkie]

since when is lubricant the same as a sealant?

[clee]

That could really hurt

[Trevhib]

the pads sieze in the sliders due to dust build up, not due to the two parts physically getting stuck together.

copper slip, stops metal parts corroding together.

grease keeps the two parts sliding over each other.


its not silicone sealant either!

Thanks Mark (and Andy), makes sense

[Andrew Cooke]

Use any sort of eazi bleed just to make sure! I start from furthest working to the nearest, from the master cyclinder.

Andy "I'm going to pull you up on using copperslip on the sliders - don't, copperslip isn't a lubricant, it's an anti-seize. Use a silicone lubricant." How come? If something has an anti seeze effect isnt it going to keep things moving? Why do you reccommend silicone sealent, never had any experience with it so would like to know more on it as i often use copper slip for assembling brakes?

http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11587 - save me typing much the same out..

[Chris Hebden]

How does the silicone lube stand up to the heat? I thought that was one of the selling points of copper slip and such like, it with stands the heat and acts as a lube!?

[Ben]

How does the silicone lube stand up to the heat? I thought that was one of the selling points of copper slip and such like, it with stands the heat and acts as a lube!?

Not Renault 5 specific but I usually use a silicone grease on the sliders that hold the caliper to the carrier and a small amount of anti seize on the back of the pads and the contact point were they fit into the carrier.

[THE MASTER]

I'm going to pull you up on using copperslip on the sliders - don't, copperslip isn't a lubricant, it's an anti-seize. Use a silicone lubricant.

well spotted Andrew copperslip is an old mith that needs to be put to rest
grafite or silcon are lubs

[Ben]

I use this on the sliders and have never had a problem
http://www.super-lube.com/silicone-b...ease-ez-54.htm

[THE MASTER]

thats another no no
neaver put grease on the back of the pads of any sort
most pads are backed with padding that requires the pad to stik or bed into the caliper to the caliper (ish ) adding grease to the back of the pad alows to pad to flop around (beit only slight) around in the caliper
infact some pads have glue pads on on the back with a rip off backing


grease any where on brakes only atracts dust and caused sezing

[BriC]

Col, do even you know how you managed to get all that funky shizzle on the end of your post?

[THE MASTER]

Col, do even you know how you managed to get all that funky shizzle on the end of your post?

yup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfHBPusZg6E

[Ben]

thats another no no
neaver put grease on the back of the pads of any sort
most pads are backed with padding that requires the pad to stik or bed into the caliper to the caliper (ish ) adding grease to the back of the pad alows to pad to flop around (beit only slight) around in the caliper
infact some pads have glue pads on on the back with a rip off backing


grease any where on brakes only atracts dust and caused seizing

True on modern pads which use anti-squeal backings there is no need for anti-seize on the back of the pad and would affect performance if used. But older pads that don't have it, and some pads that utilize a steel shim between pad and caliper can still benefit from a smear of anti seize to prevent high frequency squeal.