tubby 5 has done a simlar thing. im going to have a look tomorrow and see what i can come up with ideally i want it to sit flush with the block and be totally forgotten about .Originally Posted by Os8472
tubby 5 has done a simlar thing. im going to have a look tomorrow and see what i can come up with ideally i want it to sit flush with the block and be totally forgotten about .
got a pic ?
i just got a cap made up,seemed the easier option,also my dad has had his modified it sticks out of the block by about 2" looks really neat
Hi Richie - looking very good indeed, I'm doing the same conversion but you're a little ahead of me in many ways. Just as a thought though, I have a coil pack which I intend to mount on top of the rocker cover so that the leads are as short as possible. Got the idea off my mrs' cooper 's' (not a real mini) which looks very good.
Is ally a good material to use for this???
Or am I being too picky?
i was just going to mount the pack on the front of the block make up a little bracket and get some leads made to suit i may have a play with that later im just in the process of relocating the header tank at the moment.
i just read a thread it seems your ahead of me mate as you have the ecu installed
This is what I did with my dizzy, I'd like to do somit that is level with the block but for now this will do
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=7247
This is where I mounted the coil pack, its a ford job off a 1995 fiesta
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=7248
Because of the coil pack sitting so far from the head I had to get some custom HT leads so I visited http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ and ordered some resistive core, supressed plug caps and dizzy straight connectors which fit into some adaptors I already had from Halfrauds
And thats what they look like
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/picture.p...pictureid=7249
the route seems to be a little big for my liking i was just going to fit mine at the front of the block as i do have a reasonable amount of space there
I know what ya mean, I would've liked to get it abit closer but there was little choice cus it was either in the inner wing where it would be nice and cool but the long leads or mount it on the front of the block where the leads wouldn't be much longer than standard but it would get very hot
Coilpack should be mounted on the engine block if you can. Failing that mount it on the body but have a good earth strap connecting engine and body near where the coilpack is mounted. You can get into a world of EMI and poor spark if you don't.
I can understand the advantage of having it on the block but surely mounting it else where with a good earth is better cus you don't get the heat issue?
Well, you should compromise. you are after creating the most direct and resistance free earth return for the spark. the cylinder head is the earth for the spark plug. You have many kV of spark potential that needs an earth. You don't want to be creating a big earth loop in the HT circuit by having the coilpack mounted meters away from the nearest body-to-engine earth, it can cause a lot of inteference. But as you say, too much heat isn't good either. Somewhere on the front of the engine block would be a winner - short HT leads, a cool location and a good earth.
So basically we're fecked lol
better picture of progress now you can see the scuttle cover template in situ so im going to knock a carbon fibre one up maybe even stick to the white. i changed the header tanks plans slightly got rid of the heater matrix hoses all together along with the swirl pot so minimal hoses in there now. just means i have no heating but thats ok i got a rtoc fleece if its cold. also decided today i didnt like the oe horn setup so removed the bracket for that and replaced the huge one with a little tiny one which can be heard rather than that little pwarp noise.
Looking good Richie.
No really - believe me when I say you're streets ahead, mines running on a base map (ignition only ATM - Fuel injection is my winter project) but more StuTH than what you're doing, If I had more time and patience I would do the kind of build your doing. Mines going to be simply solid and functional. Lovely engine bays and fantastic bodywork aint my thing due to time. I'll put some photo's up and you'll see what I mean. There's a few of us over here in the east keeping a keen eye on yours and we're looking forwards to see it coming together. Keep up the good work.
AS
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=712
There you go - and not to forget to mention I would still be scratching my head without the help from Scoff with the Adaptronic stuff.Cheers fella
good work fella i take it the earth for that coil pack goes to the block does it rather than the rocker cover. is it now up and running. i must admit the bay does make me want to come round and clean it.https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=712
There you go - and not to forget to mention I would still be scratching my head without the help from Scoff with the Adaptronic stuff.have you got any plans for a inlet manifold for the winter project then.
The ground it through the 3 x m6's through the coilpack to the base plate which is welded directly to the rocker cover which in turn has 3 x m8's directly into the block and an additional pigtail from the coilpack connector to one of the rocker cover nuts. How good this will perform under stress I don't know but it runs ok in the garage, the rpm's are steady and consistant. I'm sure Scoff will put me right on this if he reads thisgood work fella i take it the earth for that coil pack goes to the block does it rather than the rocker cover. is it now up and running. i must admit the bay does make me want to come round and clean it..
I already have the same inlet set-up as your good self and any time you want to come round and clean my engine bay up you are more than welcome.
great yarmouth sounds like a little road trip. i need to pull my finger out and get my ecu and loom ordered up through scoff also but i keep finding other things that need altering and modding just realised i also need to get a tap to tap the end plate on the cylinder head for the temp sensor and still sort the dizzy drive out.The ground it through the 3 x m6's through the coilpack to the base plate which is welded directly to the rocker cover which in turn has 3 x m8's directly into the block and an additional pigtail from the coilpack connector to one of the rocker cover nuts. How good this will perform under stress I don't know but it runs ok in the garage, the rpm's are steady and consistant. I'm sure Scoff will put me right on this if he reads this
I already have the same inlet set-up as your good self and any time you want to come round and clean my engine bay up you are more than welcome.
Andy, the rocker cover may not be earthed, it sits on a rubber seal and the nuts have fiber washers beneth them remember. The earth in the loom is only for the ignitor circuit, the HT coil iteself needs to earth through those 3 bolts, so maybe it's worth running a strap from the rocker cover to block to be sure.
thats why i mentioned it also scoff as i was thinking the same.
Will do ol Scoffy man!
Andy mate, thats comin on a treat, can't wait to see it up and runninghttps://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=712
There you go - and not to forget to mention I would still be scratching my head without the help from Scoff with the Adaptronic stuff.
Cheers Olski - it'll just be ignition atm.
Right on with busting that rust.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrr
U don't wanna have a crack at mine do yaCheers Olski - it'll just be ignition atm.
Right on with busting that rust.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrr
A couple of points on your pictures:https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=712
There you go - and not to forget to mention I would still be scratching my head without the help from Scoff with the Adaptronic stuff.
IMO...
you need the header tank for the charge cooler circuit to be the highest point of the system.
You need some way of ensuring that the air gets out of the top of the CC and into the header tank.
Maybe that's all sorted, but it doesn't look like it to me
A couple of points on your pictures:
IMO...
you need the header tank for the charge cooler circuit to be the highest point of the system.
You need some way of ensuring that the air gets out of the top of the CC and into the header tank.
Maybe that's all sorted, but it doesn't look like it to me
Hi Andy - Thanks for those pointers, I have bled the system when I filled it. Will that not be adequate?
I think you've hijacked Riche's thread abit mate, maybe u should start ya own
its sound on my side as its all relevant and a good chance to share ideas in the same thread.
fair enough then, Andy, hijack away lol
oops - oli - quite right back to the point ..
New thread started about header tank location.
Got any further Richie ???
not alot finished of part of the boost piping cylinder head end plate is being sent to scoff to have two sensor holes tapped into it. also got the strut brace to figure out i just need the bar making accross as it interferes with the pipe work. then need to get my ecu ordered up but was doing all the time consuming jobs firstGot any further Richie ???
Looking good dude, keep at it, it'll be worth it in the end
Yo Richie - what injector rail are you useing? I've got me a Skoda felicia item - not too sue what to do with the FPR at the mo.
2 sensor holes?
Air temp in the boost pipe and coolant temp in the end plate
nope one for my stack dash and the other for the ecu side of things so both going in the end plate
you would have to ask michael what the fuel rail is from mine already came with the fpr on it so yet to see how it goes
Very small bit of progress thanks to tnt hammond i now have a boxed in the air filter behind the headlight cheers fella
Tidy!
looking good fella, glad it fitted ok, was worried about the diffence between the 2 cars . If it was a mini it would never have been the same
NiceVery small bit of progress thanks to tnt hammond i now have a boxed in the air filter behind the headlight cheers fella
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