Well looks like ill be pulling it to bits again this weekend. Since putting it back together there has been oil mixing with the coolant in the header tankNot a lot but i can't ignore it. Been monitoring the situation & done a couple of hundred miles & its only getting worse. Im assuming the head is cracked...time to get the original sorted. Shame as its running pretty well..
**** mate. you sure its not the rad?? Might be worth a sniff first to determine its the head.
The rad is nearly new, Can only be the head as that's the only thing different from last time apart from cam. Oh well can't complain as it were free..
don't write off the possibility that a nearly new rad is faulty.
You need the 'turbokiller' to explain about sleeving the head.
The rad were fine before swapping the head though. Is it an easy job to sleeve the head? Just weighing up the cost of sorting it out, As the original head needs quite a bit of work to bring it up to scratch.
you'll need to quiz Sparkie, but from memory it was pretty straightforward.Originally Posted by Brigsy
i got a local back street old guy to do it for me.
he basically drilled it out, and glued a brass tube up the centre of it. - a really good job too
Sounds pretty straightforward, Ive got a machinist mate who might be able to do this for beer money
First post!
nice van!! i'm curious though.. how did you get the williams wheels to fit on the rear? i'm sure when i tried some reno 19 16v wheels on a few years ago they wouldnt fit i opted for reno 5 turbo wheels which went on but still only have about quarter of an inch clearance between tyre and inner arch..
Im using 6mm spacers on the rear with the willy wheels as there 7j, Still pretty tight though. The turbines fit ok without spacers
In the long run i may fit a gtt rear axle, As the track is wider than the drum beam & that would sort all the problems out.
Well had a fail tonight, Guess the fault
head gasket??
oo oo whats the prize
I would have drove it back with duff headgasketNext...
rad blew?
Wheel bearing has gone on o/s, Disc is catching the caliper badly when turning.
Good to hear it's nothing to do with your fresh engine
Yeah its not all bad
Just ordered myself another R11402Going to whip the head off tonight to refit the original this weekend to cure my oil/water mix. Found somewhere that will sort out the dodgy plughole for a decent price so its all good.
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Glad to hear that it was not engine related
you not i the AA? or have they called in a subbie?
Greenflag, Subby for them. The place that picked me up are based 5 mins down the road, took about 20 mins & i was back home talk about fast service!
Found the problem tonight, Wheel bearing is fine but the o/s outer cv joint is obliterated. Think i killed it when i put me boot down off a roundabout & It span the wheels up
Got it in a million bits again, Took an hr & 1/2 to whip head off & strip the head fully, I love how simple these engines are
im sure it will be back together again mate , looks nice and clean mate
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Well its all back together now, Just can't get the idle right. It will idle when the mixture is rich with a bigger idle jet fitted, but wont have it with normal idle jet.
I did have it idling ok for a while on stock jet, mixture were spot on for about 30 mins now it wont have it at allAll i can think is the 1 way valve is knacked to brake servo as there are no air leaks or owt. Mixture screw were working fine too then no adjustment...
Last edited by Brigsy; 18-04-2009 at 21:46.
Still no joy with idle, can only get it to idle happily with .5mm jet & afr's in low to mid 12s as the mixture screw wont lean it off anymore.
With the original .45 Jet the afr is always in the high 15- low 16, its missing the lot at that & generally not happy. There are no air leaks, I changed the 1 way valve as it were shot but a new one has made no difference.
Will i have to live with the idle super rich? I suppose i can get it through the mot test running rough if necessary but its not ideal.
I still cant work out how twice i have had the idle fine then it suddenly refuses to idle right
Sounds like you need to find an 0.47mm idle jet or you could play with the idle air corrector which is visible when you remove the top half of the carb body. It's a drilling in the cast that goes down toward the idle jet. Try using the standard idle jet and closing the air corrector up with a bit of thin wire fed down the hole to restrict it. I had to do this when I ran the twin carb setup, I ended up with a pair of 0.4mm idle jets (I think?) and wedged some wire down the air corrector holes then bent it under the gasket so that the carb top clamped it in place.
Ill give the wire trick a go, Sounds like just the job
Which hole do i need to fit the wire in? The hole with the brass insert goes to the idle jet? Ive fitted it in there & the hole that goes into the carb throat but doesn't seem to be making much difference either way. Its a bit of a pig to keep running when cold may even have to refit the choke flap to richen it up.
Ive got the idle afr's slightly better 15/16 which its sort of happy at but im running out of adjustment on the mixture screw. I have also found a .46 idle jet in an old carb but this has made little difference.
Been out doing a few wot runs tonight.
Carb spec is 25mm venturi, 120 main, 1.3 2nd stg, .90 a/c & 2mm needle.
16lb manifold on a 4th gear pull im seeing 11.7 all the way to 6800 then its leaning off slightly to 12.1 to the 7200 limiter. Im after upping the boost to 20lb manifold do i need to be taking the 2nd stage out furthur for more fuel up top? Ill have to check fuel pressure to see if the shady pump is up to the job too.
How long are the WOT pulls for briggsy? You need to check for the bowl emptying. On mine with a piper 285, to rev to 7800 at below 12.0 afr had a 1.4 second stage. Funny thing was, it was a standard needle jet and never emptied the bowl??
Im revving it to roughly 7200 in 4th mate, off the scale on the o.e rev counter. I wonder if the fuel pump is up to the job as i had to have a 2mm needle even with std cam as the bowl were emptying. The pump is as old as the hills like.
In frustration i have stripped the carb down fully today, The hole next to the mixture screw in carb base were blocked up so have carefully opened it back up. Also found out that the gasket that seperates carb body/base had some holes that weren't exactly in line so have fettled these to suit.
Im hoping this is the problem, Thinking back its always refused to idle with the std idle jet since i done the conversion. Going to fire it up soon fingers crossed eh as i feel like im clutching at straws.
cool, let us know how ya get on!!
Idle is sorted now, got the afr/c.o to a reasonable level, Still rough but a lot better than before. Must have been the blocked up hole in carb base..
Swapped the main jet to 1.25 too. Have set boost to 18lb manifold, it will hold 11.9 all the way to 7k in 4th then it creeps to 12.1 on the limiter. Feel like im finally getting somewhere..
Glad its sorted....
Im thinking about upping the boost a touch more rob to lean her off a little. Just still a little concerned about the fuelling leaning off over 7k, I really need to get a fuel pressure gauge connected up to see if its starting to empty the bowl.
Also need to get an act gauge to monitor charge temps as im not sure how good this i/c really is. On the plus side for a van it feels quick, Can't wait to see what its capable of at the pod
Also on the subject of afr's, I usually set mine up when on my own. I had a mate out in the car & noticed the afr were leaner than on my own, Im assuming its because of more load/weight etc. Not sure whether i should keep in on the richer side or not as im usually 2 up.
Bigs a gauge wont show if the bowl emptys but will show if you have good fuel pressure thoughout the load and rpm.. If you have and you still lean off then start looking at a needle. Upping the boost may premature the raising afr sooner.
But as you are enjoy it mate,
Aye i meant i need to check fuel pressure as i already have a 2mm needle jet fitted, Had problems with bowl emptying in the past at 16lb with stock cam. I know its a bit of a how long is a piece of string question, but how much boost is a 2mm needle usually good for?
Arr i see i missed a few posts... didnt know you was on a 2... as for boost with a 2mm i cant answer... to many things can vary that from regs to cams...
Give it a clean up today so took a couple of pics
thats one clean extra van for sure!!
Brigsy, i would be looking at ditching the oe fuel pump. Go with something with a little more pressure and flow rate, then at least its giving the 2mm needle a chance. The question i have always wanted to know is how much fuel the engine requires to run at WOT at a given boost pressure? I know all engine run different, but if we new we could work out the required flow rate and needle orifice size?
Do GTT wing mirrors fit on Extra van doors? Might be a nice touch in glacier white.
Looks awesome Brigsy
They are r5 car mirrors Trev, Should see the size of the extra wingmirrors there about twice the height
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Looking god
Just read the whole thread.
Love the van mate
spot on mate
brigsy, was it your head at fault? the water oil mixing thing? i put a brand new oe rad in a week ago, went out to swap the turbo this morning and the header tank has a slight bit of sludge in, no running probs or anything? cba assed with a head swap like
Aye the ported head were cracked on mine adey, Refitted the old one & all is well. Mine looked like a cup of coffee had been poured in the header tank!
If you have just changed the rad & it has just started it might be at fault?
frothy coffee? yep will be swapping it off asap
has that had a respray? I cant believe how clean it is.
Well done on that mate its well nice.
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