Just caught up with this project. I wish you were nearer the midlands mate. GL with the rest of the build.
Just caught up with this project. I wish you were nearer the midlands mate. GL with the rest of the build.
OK, that's it, the PH2 fbw throttle ****e is coming off, and it's getting converted to PH1, just need to find all the bits. Ordered my emulator today, ECU Clinic are sending me my money back, and I'm pissed off.
Anyone know the easiest way to get the ECU virginised?
Flash a new map onto it with RS Tuner and then it'll be virginised, if you ask around you might be able to borrow one and get a licence for 50 EURO.Originally Posted by Andrew Cooke
Failing that I might sell you my Ph1 ECU with emulator that has a standard map on it
I don't know anyone with an RSTuner, and they haven't had stock of new ones for ages. I'd quite like to buy one as it has quite a few features beyond just remaps.
i had one before i went omex, could do fault code checks and test most of the things in the car, good bit of kit
Come on Andy think it's about time you gave us an update.
Let me see f4r was in and running you got bored and took the f4r out and squeezed a 3.0 v6 in the back.
Whats happening Andy... must be an update soon...
you'd have hoped so wouldn't youWhats happening Andy... must be an update soon...
I've got my RS Tuner and and emulator, just trying to get the bits and bobs to convert it to cable throttle, it's only money
now the days are getting longer and warmerI'm going to try and get some more done, but my old bones aren't keen on working in the snow
If youve got the engine mounted in place, itl only take a short while to bolt the stuff on, connect loom and plug emulaed ECU in...it should run nice then!
I ran out of excuses today, so finally did a bit more to the car.
Not much has happened with the engine, I've removed all the PH2 stuff, got a PH1 ECU and engine loom, just waiting for a PH1 plenum, throttle body and idle speed control valve to turn up.
I've removed the N/S driveshaft to shorten it and modified the Twingo suspension to fit the modified 172 hubs. The OS corner is now bolted on for hopefully the final time, the new 172 disks are on, and the new pads are in the 172 calipers.
I've set it up with a bit of negative camber, not sure how much, but it looks about right.
The pictures show the suspension compressed, so it's pretty much at the correct rideheight. It should look almost standard...
a little bit of a poke around today, I had to make an extension for the handbrake linkage, no idea how I need an extension when using clio cables, but there you go. I made a threaded spacer, and welded it to the cut down clio part and threaded onto the cut down twingo part, maybe the pic explains better.
I made up new brake hoses for the rear, then decided that the only space for the rear brake compensator was under the servo, so I guess I'm going to just make all new lines. The rubber hoses felt a bit stiff, so I decided to go for braided ones, a quick look on ebay Germany found a twingo set, and ordered them. I'd already confirmed that the Twingo fronts worked fine with the 172 calipers.
So, not much achieved, but it's another 'system' on the way to working. I'm hoping to get another day working on it over the weekend.
Good to see your cracking back on Andy...
Like this project a lot, proper wheel in each corner job, www.looneytunecarbuilds.com
I was thinking the same, shocking that I've dragged it out so long... I've set my heart on taking it to La Vie en Bleu at the end of May. That crazy plan came out of persuading a guy at work to get his Delage ready for the same event, the difference is that he only needs to put his gearbox back together, and he's on a 6 month sabbaticalGood to see your cracking back on Andy...
Oh, and I lose 2 weekends in May going on holiday...
Cant beat a good target... even better get it to rtoc pod day...
love to, unfortunately that's when I'm awayCant beat a good target... even better get it to rtoc pod day...
Arrrrrrrrrr you going to miss me take all Scoffs pinks home...
another couple of small steps.
I've got the gear linkage working, what an epic, it's based on a 172 one, but cut into 5 bits and tacked back together. I began to think that I'd never get it working. I also fitted my short throw gearbox linkage thing, I'd previously had it on the GTT, so I'll need to do something for that when I get it back together. I've also fitted the Twingo knob and gaiter onto the 172 gear lever, so that all looks OE now.
I lashed up an exhaust the the twingo system is now fitted onto the back of the 172 CAT, it's a bit of a bodge, but it should get it an MOT. I'll get something nice made up once it's up and running. By nice I mean stainless, quiet, and hopefully with a hidden tailpipe - I can't go giving the game away by having a big lairy pipe hanging out the back.
I think the next job is to get the PH1 172 engine loom fitted in preparation for the plenum etc turning up. That said, it might be easier to do the brake lines without the loom in the way. Something to ponder on...
Somehow along the way I've been suckered into buying an RS lower inlet manifold, the ports are bigger than the standard inlet and supposedly worth a hp or so. It came in a natty yellow colour, so out came the nitromors and I gave it a bit of a clean, it's not done yet, but getting there.
are you gonna run the original lower inlet then change it over or just swap it over without seeing if you notice the difference of a hand picked, best of the best, inlet selected only for the cup model fitted in dieppe?
was looking into matched inlets but not sure if the cost will out weigh the gains but seeing you've invested means there must be something in it but on the other hand you seem a little sceptical?
I'm certainly not doing any back-to-back testing.are you gonna run the original lower inlet then change it over or just swap it over without seeing if you notice the difference of a hand picked, best of the best, inlet selected only for the cup model fitted in dieppe?
was looking into matched inlets but not sure if the cost will out weigh the gains but seeing you've invested means there must be something in it but on the other hand you seem a little sceptical?
I've just taken a few rough measurements, my engine is a PH2 172, I've got a PH1 plenum coming so it'll be interesting to compare.
The RS lower is a different casting to the std one, neither manifold has as big a cross section as the head, the RS is about 1/2 way between the standard manifold and the head. Both lower manifolds keep the same section along their length - this is important as the matched stuff I've seen is only ported at the ends...
The upper manifold has tapered ports, in my case it's final size is much as the standard bottom. However, the taper means that it matches the RS lower about 30mm in, so easily matched.
From what I've seen I'll probably use a std RS lower, and match the top to it.
Sounds like a plan, I've not compaired any of the difference of the different phases but from the research I've done it seems as though the cable throttle is the better of the two and as you say the rs lower is the better option.
Have you given much thought to the induction set up? The v6 airbox with itg filter directly fitted to the throttlebody without the 90* bend seems to be a popular choice as is fitting a ph1 airbox instead of the ph2?
I'm resisting the urge to play with my Clio, keep telling myself I've got to finish my 5 gtt first so looks like it will be staying near enough standard for awhile!
it's more a case of what will fit in the space available, certainly the PH2 won't go, I don't know how I'm going to fit the throttle cable as that'll go straight through the wiper motorSounds like a plan, I've not compaired any of the difference of the different phases but from the research I've done it seems as though the cable throttle is the better of the two and as you say the rs lower is the better option.
Have you given much thought to the induction set up? The v6 airbox with itg filter directly fitted to the throttlebody without the 90* bend seems to be a popular choice as is fitting a ph1 airbox instead of the ph2?
I'm resisting the urge to play with my Clio, keep telling myself I've got to finish my 5 gtt first so looks like it will be staying near enough standard for awhile!
see the attached image for a more complete fitment
Looking good Andrew, maybe you could mount the phase 1 throttle body upside down to give you clearance for the cableit's more a case of what will fit in the space available, certainly the PH2 won't go, I don't know how I'm going to fit the throttle cable as that'll go straight through the wiper motor
see the attached image for a more complete fitment
Just what I was thinkingLooking good Andrew, maybe you could mount the phase 1 throttle body upside down to give you clearance for the cable
Have your bits arrived from Andyrg yet?
that was something I was going to try, assuming that it's possible to do.Just what I was thinking
Have your bits arrived from Andyrg yet?
Nope, no bits, I've re-bought them off someone else, so should have the missing bits before the weekend.... don't hold your breath...
Yeah it is possible I remember seeing a picture of Andrew Warren's rear wheel drive 172 5 and he mounted the TB upside.
Found one of Andrew's pic's you can see Ph1 TB upside down
yep and here's a couple of other pics.. I lobbed the circled thing off to give better clearance.. I don't seem to have any problems. Although I do have an airleak somewhere which I need to investigate.. anyone know the stuff you spray on to find airleaks..
what's the difference between the ph1 and ph2 manifold?
PH1 is cable throttle with an idle speed control valve, no idea whether there are any porting differences.
I am refunding Andrew with the full money, As per phone call last week. Im not using DHL P2G again, there a total piss take.
Have your bits arrived from Andyrg yet?
On That note andrew the money will be refunded via PayPal before friday, i get paid thursday.
Much appoligies for the hasstle and grief caused, Some thing thats made me look like a right ****!and it was not my fault !
don't talk to me about DHL Parcel to go.... they aren't the same as DHL, DHL collect and drop off at work daily, same chap, knows the score. Parcel to go just don't pick up, promise to collect "tomorrow" for about a week of daily nagging.
Is this the case?? Do you think there is any point in making a compaint???
Ive only used them a few times, never had issues till now
They certainly need a rocket up them, your stuff has been with them for ages.
Good news is that my second source plenum has arrived, so I can carry on putting the engine together. I still want your parcel to turn up though as it's got Steve's head in it.
presumably you blocked the hole off afterwards? Where does that pipe normally go? The engine breather pipe of the top of the head?
Now I have my plenum I can see how the linkage will fit, I'm sure there'll be a way to make it work.
yes, I used a bit of silicon.. I must check if that's still in place
The braided brake hoses just arrived from Germany, all being well I'll make the brake pipes and have working brakes by the end of Saturday.
well, that all went to plan.
Stripped off the original brake pipes first thing, then managed to mount the clio cup brake pressure regulator under the servo, it actually looks quite at home there. Made up the new brake pipes, fitted with the new braided hoses, bled the brakes, adjusted the handbrake. Job done.
The Twingo now has a fully working 172 Cup braking system
I spent a few hours tidying up the PH1 engine loom last night, it's almost done, and I can fit it now that the brake pipes are fitted. If all goes well I'll start the engine next weekend
Unfortunately I'm off out now for the rest of the weekend, it's a pity, I'd like to crack on and get the wiring finished.
How does the clio brake regulator work Andrew? How are you able to mount it at the front of the car?well, that all went to plan.
Stripped off the original brake pipes first thing, then managed to mount the clio cup brake pressure regulator under the servo, it actually looks quite at home there. Made up the new brake pipes, fitted with the new braided hoses, bled the brakes, adjusted the handbrake. Job done.
The Twingo now has a fully working 172 Cup braking system
I spent a few hours tidying up the PH1 engine loom last night, it's almost done, and I can fit it now that the brake pipes are fitted. If all goes well I'll start the engine next weekend
Unfortunately I'm off out now for the rest of the weekend, it's a pity, I'd like to crack on and get the wiring finished.
the regulator is just that, it limits the pressure to the rear brakes, the cup one doesn't have a load arm.
Spooky has lent me his ECU, so I can fire up the engine in advance of sorting mine out
Feck me that ecu gets aroundthe regulator is just that, it limits the pressure to the rear brakes, the cup one doesn't have a load arm.
Spooky has lent me his ECU, so I can fire up the engine in advance of sorting mine out
So how does it regulate mate? Is it a screwin jobbie? Like a incar boost controller?
Most of my car parts get used and abused even though my car is off the road
Anytime Andy & fingers crossed she fires up soon
there is a screw, but it's factory set. It works just like the GTT one.
Some pictures that look much like some previous ones, but this time it's with a PH1 plenum, loom etc. Tonight's little task was to fit the loom, non-yellow RS lower inlet, PH1 upper, and generally stand around feeling cold. It all looks reasonable, the throttle linkage is currently off, I think I'll trim the wiper motor bracket so that I can use the standard clio bits.
Car looks like its coming together nicely
it won't seize as it doesn't move, just like the GTT one won't move if you lock it in position.
Car looks like its coming together nicely
Engine fired up last night, on the button, no drama
just ignore that I first tried starting it in August...
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