The original support bracket is fine, it's just the lug that sticks up for the heat shield that sits close, I can move the pipe further away.
What about the lower bracket where it joins the centre section? Like I say it fits through the bracket, but the original hole centres are narrower than the diameter the swaged lip will be on the centre part?
I agree with Ian, it would be better to retain the brackets (or be able to keep them). That said, I removed all the bracketry and never had a cracked manifold or any other problems and I had a T25, bored out standard elbow and 2.5" crossover pipe.Originally Posted by Ian S
Edit - not sure about the centre section lower bracket.
Brackets are now fine, I've adjusted the jig to bring the pipe over the top as standard fitment. With regards to the lower clamp, I'm not sure how most people have connected theirs up, that are running a 2.5" downpipe and centre section. You may get away with slotting the holes in the bracket, but obviously not ideal.
I also set my standard pipe orientation up on the elbow knuckle join, using my jig, and everything bolted straight up to the car.
Still awaiting these flanges, they were supposed to be here a few days ago. But everything is set ready to go.it's about a 2 week lead time on the centre section, so this should work out well, as I'll be swapping my downpipe for a 2.5" and I can build the rest of the system off that.
I done away with that bracket years ago and it's been fine. That said I only run a small turbo (lighter than a big one?) and I've never had an issue. I agree it would be better if we can incorporate the bracket in mind with the design.
Which bracket Alex? The turbo support bracket is fine if I tilt the pipe further up. Its just the lower gearbox bracket that will be a problem.
The Y-shaped bracket that takes some of the weight of the turbo/down pipe Matty. You can see it in your pictures. It looks like it won't be an issue though
Consists of the tie bar from the back of the engine block and the plate that attaches to.
The assembly holds the bottom of the down pipe to / and the flexible coupling.
I'll take a picture of the lower bracket to show what the issue is. The pipe fits through it ok but the bolt holes don't line up as the hole centres on the flanges need to be further apart to clear the flared section of the centre part.
Are you using an overly wide flare?
I have 2.5 inch pipes and it's all fine. Fits easily.
I replaced the bolts with a few inches of stainless threaded rod, tightened two nuts against each other at the top of each, dropped them through the bracket and flange (or flange and bracket), fitted up the springs with another two nuts underneath.
There might be two flanges with the bracket between. One around the pipe to the bracket and one around the pipe from it (ie the centre section pipe).
On my downpipe from the turbo, the bottom flange is a loose fit. IIRC, on the OE pipe that was welded.
The flare is a standard size for 2.5" so the its approximately 8-10mm a side on the OD. The one thing I have noticed is that alot of the aftermarket downpipes seem to have an internal male taper on the downpipe, so it is effectively reducing the pipe size at the join to 1 3/4.
The flanges all arrived yesterday, so I'll get cracking on the next one and get some pics up of the lower bracket.
Have you got any pictures of the lower bracket on yours Ian?
Yes I've seen this too.
Looking forward to this!The flare is a standard size for 2.5" so the its approximately 8-10mm a side on the OD. The one thing I have noticed is that alot of the aftermarket downpipes seem to have an internal male taper on the downpipe, so it is effectively reducing the pipe size at the join to 1 3/4.
The flanges all arrived yesterday, so I'll get cracking on the next one and get some pics up of the lower bracket.
Have you got any pictures of the lower bracket on yours Ian?
All the pipes I had were 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 all the way. No restrictions or I'd not have had them.
As far as I recall, no photos, sorry. Just standard stuff. All the same back then, to 2008 when I last ran the car.
Standard brackets. Normal after market pipes. No restrictions. Everything fitted OK.
Jim made them for years with no problems fitting the brackets as far as I know. I can only presume the Boris one fitted too.
I did find this pic of a Big Jim Racing pipe:
Cheers Ian. I've had a measure up this evening and I can get it to work with the lower bracket, I just need to make the flare a couple of mm smaller each side on the centre section and notch out the male taper on the downpipe where the bolts pass.
I should have it all made up tomorrow.
downpipe mk3...
I have now changed the flange angle, moved the pipe further up to clear the heat shield bracket and moved it 10mm further away from the bulkhead. I still have a bit of fettling to do to align the first pipe, but as you can see this will be a nice flowing elbow!
Centre section should be with me early next week, so I'll get this all fitted up together, as it's going on my daily, it'll mean running with no silencer for a week or so, until I get that part sorted.
Awesome skills
Wow!
They look awesome Matty. I look forward to seeing the finished article along with the exhaust systems. If you need any further help/trial fitment let me know as my car is currently up on the axle stands and will be for a while......
Just wondering whether these will ever be available to other club members?? I'd prob be interested in a downpipe as I'd keep my scorpion on.
Thanks for the comments.
I've got a T2 flange sorted, so I am happy to make one up using this flange to fit in yours Alex if you are planning on running one? or I can make a T25 like this to trial fit as the top two flange holes are in the same position for both flanges.
I would like to trial the systems on a lowered car, to check beam clearance. Mine will be lowered 35mm this weekend but it would be nice to make sure it clears 50-60mm. If yours is lowered 50-60mm it would be good if you can check the system clearance?
MR Turbo - the plan is to get a group buy sorted as soon as the fitment finalised (which it pretty much is now). Ive got the first set of 2.5" system bends arriving in the next week, so once the beam section/clearance is sorted, we will work out between everyone what people want with regards to the rear silencer etc...
If Alex's car is on axle stands then you could go round, fit the exhaust and jack the rear beam up to mimic a car lowered 50mm+ and see what adjustments need to be made, if any
Anyone lowering much more than 50mm and fitting an enormous exhaust is asking for various amounts of trouble anyway IMO
I think it's easier just to stick to the T25 flange Matty. The only thing I had to do was move one of the studs to another hole when I was test fitting
Matty is quite a distance from me Trev. My axle is currently off the car!If Alex's car is on axle stands then you could go round, fit the exhaust and jack the rear beam up to mimic a car lowered 50mm+ and see what adjustments need to be made, if any
Anyone lowering much more than 50mm and fitting an enormous exhaust is asking for various amounts of trouble anyway IMO
Ohhhhhh...
Downpipe is now finished.
I'm going to fit this one on my car, as my downpipe has split on the lower flange so needs relacing and it means I can fit my T25 while I'm at it.
It will give me something to joint the full system to as well.
I can always Jack my beam up 15-20mm from its -35mm position, and see if I can get it to fit in with a more lowered position.
Alex, If this one fits up ok, then I'll make another one up for you to try on yours. The only problem is that if you are planning on running it, then it will only bolt up on the 3 studs, so it may not seal up completely, so a T2 flange may be better to run...its up to you?
This is the fitment on the lower bracket, it's snug but fits ok.
Complete downpipe
I think the one I tried was a T25 flange wasn't it? If so I did manage to fit all (4 I think) studs/nuts to it, I just had to move one stud to another hole so it lined up. Either way, going forward, I'll no doubt be running a T25 variant so thats the flange I'd go forAlex, If this one fits up ok, then I'll make another one up for you to try on yours. The only problem is that if you are planning on running it, then it will only bolt up on the 3 studs, so it may not seal up completely, so a T2 flange may be better to run...its up to you?
Oh that's awesome! Matty well done on these. These are great for the club members.Downpipe is now finished.
I'm going to fit this one on my car, as my downpipe has split on the lower flange so needs relacing and it means I can fit my T25 while I'm at it.
It will give me something to joint the full system to as well.
I can always Jack my beam up 15-20mm from its -35mm position, and see if I can get it to fit in with a more lowered position.
Alex, If this one fits up ok, then I'll make another one up for you to try on yours. The only problem is that if you are planning on running it, then it will only bolt up on the 3 studs, so it may not seal up completely, so a T2 flange may be better to run...its up to you?
This is the fitment on the lower bracket, it's snug but fits ok.
Complete downpipe
I think if you slotted one of the remaining holes then it might fit. The gasket faces are a slightly different shap too, but if you're eventually going for a T25 it makes sense to go down that route.I think the one I tried was a T25 flange wasn't it? If so I did manage to fit all (4 I think) studs/nuts to it, I just had to move one stud to another hole so it lined up. Either way, going forward, I'll no doubt be running a T25 variant so thats the flange I'd go for
Cheers Matt, it's nice to get somewhere with this now! So I can finally get on with these full systems.Oh that's awesome! Matty well done on these. These are great for the club members.
Great stuff mate
Dropped a photo on RTOC Facebook.
.....and bags of interest. 😆
Nice one!
So where are most people wanting the lambda bosses, in the position I have it or further up on the first bend?
I've started on the one for Alex to try, so it would be good to have this done as the finished design.
If you make a devil style sidey I'm interested.
I think it's 9" from the turbo outlet to be optimum? It certainly needs to be accessible with all the standard gt gumf in the way.
Yeah 8/9" inches is optimum, I'll put it on top of the elbow.
I can do a devil style sidey, but I need to get these downpipes and systems sorted first. Silencer will be with me Thursday so I can get that part started, and I'll be trialling a resonator box out for those that want something loud.
Those who still use the OE heat shield can't accommodate a Lamda sensor on the top.
I fitted mine near the bottom pointing to the left such that I allowed access for a spanner to fit and remove it.
There can be a lot of heat just after the turbo. When I read up on it 10 years ago, Lambda sensors need to be at about 600°C (Though there seem to be at least two heat ranges now). Most have a heater to keep them at that. If they are a lot hotter, eg, 900°C, that can cause a error with the accuracy. Back then the favoured position would more than 8 inches. Maybe double that. Things may have changed since then?
Matty I meant 9" from the turbo outlet so down the pipe. Not sure on clearerence etc.Yeah 8/9" inches is optimum, I'll put it on top of the elbow.
I can do a devil style sidey, but I need to get these downpipes and systems sorted first. Silencer will be with me Thursday so I can get that part started, and I'll be trialling a resonator box out for those that want something loud.
I will have a look at where would be accessible. Unfortunately I don't have a heat shield to check the clearances with that fitted though. How many are running a standard heat shield with a T25/28? I can position them in different positions for different people, if everyone wants them placed differently.
Most of the downpipes I have made for turbo applications the sensor is within 8" of the outlet flange (due to limited space) and no negative effects seen. Some exhausts have had them further down and again no problems.
On our dyno at work we have one on the exhaust manifold and one fitted further down the pipe for different engine configs. They both read the same readings, the only difference I have seen is that the one further down the pipe takes slightly longer to go through the warmup cycle on initial start up.
Alex, the second downpipe is all done, and ready to go.
Silencer and tailpipe arrived today too, for the systems.
Pics matty so we can drool!Alex, the second downpipe is all done, and ready to go.
Silencer and tailpipe arrived today too, for the systems.
Here's the silencer box with a 2.5" tip. I requested a ribbed box, but received a plain one, dimensionally they are the same, so this will be fine to use as a mock up.
Second downpipe ready to ship to Alex.
Awesome. Pic put on rtoc fb. Love it!
Has anyone got Alex's number? I just want to check the address I'm sending this downpipe to?
Ranj has sent me Alex's number and he is unfortuntaley unable to trial fit any time soon.
I will be able to do the trial fit in a few weeks time, once I have moved units. But if anyone wants the first one I happy to do it £200 for someone that can trial fit it in the next week or so? If it doesn't fit then happy to give full refund.
The bends for the full system finally arrived today, they look really good quality mandrel bends, so worth the wait!
Someone shout up quick!
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