im assuming you havent read post 45.?Originally Posted by Frix
standard is 92/82 degrees, i think, someone will confirm!
im assuming you havent read post 45.?standard is 92/82 degrees, i think, someone will confirm!
89 degrees winter. 83 degrees i think for summer use. Renault used to carry both in stock years ago!!! Temp is stamped in the end of the stat.
For uffk sake, why me
std fan switch 92/82deg.
low temp switch 79/65deg.
semi-low switch 88/79deg.
after fitting the semi- low temp fan switch i thought id take a look at the one i removed.!
its a feckin low temp 79/82deg switch! feck knows how that got there because as far as im aware ive alway bought std temp
what the ffffso on top of the fan not kicking in,ive now raised the temp higher to where the fan "should" kick in
going to start the car up tomorrow after the batts charged and see what happens.
feck
Fit a std rad back in
Seriously though if this is causing problems like this surely the engine will run too cool whilst on the move, probably take ages to warm up too.
The knock on effect of cool running usually means the engine will hesitate unless you have choke on, these engines run best around the half way mark on temp gauge.
no go mate,Fit a std rad back in
Seriously though if this is causing problems like this surely the engine will run too cool whilst on the move, probably take ages to warm up too.
The knock on effect of cool running usually means the engine will hesitate unless you have choke on, these engines run best around the half way mark on temp gauge.
im not about to fork out for a new std radand its obviously not a good idea buying 2nd hand rads
. i cant afford it anyway.
im sure/hoping its got to be an airlock..
if the fan doesnt kick in tomorrow after ive re-bled the system i think ill do the tyre valve in a header tank cap mod and pressurize the system!just need a spare tank cap to use
any ideas of how much pressure to apply?,i'll use a foot pump. and im assuming you do this with the engine off!!
either way, somethings not quite right yet.
you would have thought with a low temp fan switch in that the fan would kick in before the temp gauge needle went almost vertical.! this is the reason i suspect an airlock??!!
im almost certain its a airlock.
When i did mine the fan cut in later than usual while bleeding it the first time.
After that it was spot on.
*****
ok today ive done the following-
fitted a new rad fan switch.
fitted another working/tested relay.
bled the system using the tyre valve/pump method.
ran the car up to temp and....
the rad fan still doesnt want to kick in!
yes it WILL work if i simply bridge the fan switch wires,i can here the relay click when i do this too.
there cant be an air trapped in the system now surely.!
theres no cool spots on the rad either.
all hoses are hot.
just wondering,
could it be that the coolant simply isnt getting hot enough in the rad to turn the fan switch on? and as mr dave mentioned is hot at the waterpump where the temperature sensor is.? but why would this happen? remember the car is not on the road,im doing all this in my garage so there no air passing throught the rad so you think that the temparture in all areas would be the same??
maybe a coolant temp sensor fitted to the bottom rad hose will tell me what temp the rad is seeing rather than the waterpump/head.?
im feeling ill have to fork out for a std rad now and fitting the 1.9d rad/16"spal fan was a waste of time/money
i really want the thing to work as it should. ive noted what mr dave has done to his but surely..mr dave if your around??.. you still had your rad fan kicking in.?
i dont want to fork out for a new std rad and still have the same issues.
its a confusing one
where abouts on the temp guage are you expecting it to kick in?(sorry if you have already mentioned this)
You could try and leave it a little longer than you think just to see if it kicks in,
obviously i dont mean leave it until its dangerously hot
theres 4marks, the 4th being hotthott. im letting the needle get to inbetween the 3rd and 4th mark before im having to bridge the fan switch to cool it back down. in my opinion the fan should kick in at least when it gets just past the 3rdmark? maybe a touch sooner?
nope,ive tried it and taken it beyond where the fan should kick in. im not going to risk overheating it.You could try and leave it a little longer than you think just to see if it kicks in,
Just before the 3rd mark would be ideal.
You could try bleeding it again, a lot of the time you have to hold the header tank well above the height of the wing and fill it to max, take both bleed nipples out completely and let it run out of them for 20 seconds.
Level with the scuttle area is just not high enough to bleed properly sometimes
Are you using the standard pump pulley and standard thermostat??
yes, std pump pulley.
and yes a std temp stat but with a 3mm hole drilled in to supposedly aid bleeding
hey raj im investigating mine tomorrow so will let you know how i got on.
have you got the same setup as me.? extra van 1.9d rad and header tank located in scuttle.
im putting the problem down to the rad just isnt suitable for the gttthinking about it,its the only thing in the cooling system side that isnt std.
this'll be the last time i try to do something different on the 5i always find out the hard way
time to bite the bullet and get the pennies saved for a new std rad or maybe one of them alloy versions unstablecable is selling.?? feck knows how ill go about mounting the 16"spal fan to a std rad though
Last edited by raj; 29-01-2009 at 21:51.
Raj, what side of the rad is the switch on?? It wants to be in the path of the flowing water exiting from the thermostat, ie when the stat opens you get hot water flowing past it. If the switch is on the opposite end it could be that the water is cooling through the rad before it gets to the switch. Some rads are pretty good at emmiting heat away, sometimes the stat opening and closing at the right points and reacting quick enough can actually keep the engine temp level withought the fan coming to use. This however is down to ambient temp of course. Im wondering if your stat isnt opening enough or quick enough to allow the full compliment of hot water through the rad. When that stat opens, you should see the temp gauge drop quite significantly/quickly. Have you tried another stat or even a reduced temp one?
OE, FTW has proved itself yet again ( not wishing to sound horrible Raj)
Also if all else fails, keep the rad and go for an adjustable, thermostatic switch using a capillary probe and adjust the switch to suite the temp.
rad switch is on the same side as the std rad,but whereas the std rad fan switch is about halfway up the rad,the 1.9d rad is at the bottom and on the side of the rad,it right next to the coolant outlet.
i havent tried another stat.
i agree totally, ive never had a prob with oe equiptmentOE, FTW has proved itself yet again ( not wishing to sound horrible Rajits just that i wanted to try something else and thought a bigger rad without an oil cooler would have benefited the gtt. never mind eh
i could, but id need help in source EXACTLY what id need as thing get confusing for me at the best of times.
out of interest, what is the diesel fan switch rated at ?
ive no idea mate. just to note,im using a gtt fan switch.
I know, which is used to sitting half way up the radiator, unlike the diesel fan switch
ahh, i see your point now. ill try and see what i can find outI know, which is used to sitting half way up the radiator, unlike the diesel fan switch
it uses a 92/82deg fan switch.
just thinking, providing i can find a boss to weld on, could i not mount/relocate the exsisting fan switch to the top rad hose using some stainless pipe with an m22 boss welded on? i though this would be cheaper than buying a fancy type stat?
couldn't you just drill and tap a hole in the side of the head, where the blanking plate sits flywheel end?
good idea
Or you could just drop a capillary tube down the pipe, tighten the clip and away you go!!good idea
a what?Or you could just drop a capillary tube down the pipe, tighten the clip and away you go!!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Radiator-C...742.m153.l1262a what?
Here ya go. Get one of these, attach the switch to the original temp switch wiring, the tube down goes in the rad pipe. Bobs ya auntys fanny.
ahaa ok.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Radiator-C...742.m153.l1262
Here ya go. Get one of these, attach the switch to the original temp switch wiring, the tube down goes in the rad pipe. Bobs ya auntys fanny.
but how do you actually fit it in the the top rad pipe.? im not understanding how you just drop it in and tightened your hose clamp back up
ive found this one that seems to have a few more bits.
Last edited by raj; 30-01-2009 at 17:59.
I can nock you up an M22 boss if you want Raj ?
sweeeet mate, would be great if you can. how much£? for 2.I can nock you up an M22 boss if you want Raj ?
Do you have any idea of the diameters and lengths you need ?
F.O.C mate !
well F.O.C meDo you have any idea of the diameters and lengths you need ?
F.O.C mate !
does m22x1.5 mean anything to you.?
i estimate the depth would be about 15mm.
just to add, are all boss faces the same? as in,is there abit of flat surface area for a washer to sit on for when i fit the fan switch?
well F.O.C me
does m22x1.5 mean anything to you.?
i estimate the depth would be about 15mm.
just to add, are all boss faces the same? as in,is there abit of flat surface area for a washer to sit on for when i fit the fan switch?
Ye mate ! I'm an engineer !!
Tell me what you need me to make (sketch would be good) and i'll make a couple,
pm 4u mate.Ye mate ! I'm an engineer !!
Tell me what you need me to make (sketch would be good) and i'll make a couple,
PM Raj
ive not even attempted to sort this rad fan problem out yetbut thanks to big jim racing for making me a stainless boss i can now get on with it
so,firstly ill be retrying the tyre valve in the header tank cap method to pump an airlock out if there actually is one
ill be relocating the rad fan switch to just after the thermostat.
ive also decided to refit the swirl pot as its obviously there for a purpose
with all that out the way and if the problem is still cured it only leaves the radiator! i really dont want to have to replace the rad for a std one [im by no means doubting the oe rad] as ive spent bloody ages getting it to fit plus mounting a 16"spal fan to it
also to add, i know this isnt an electrical problem as its been previously suggested i rewire the rad fan via the alternator.
i know theres no wiring problem as i used another new rad fan switch and connected it up and placed it in boiling water with the cars ignition on.. the rad fan kicked in.
i learn the fecking hard way all the time
hmm, i only got as far as pressurising the coolant system to hopefully push the suspected airlock out. and its seem to have worked
sorted
now on with the next issue
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