So update is car is now back together with a new crank, bearings, new under piston oil squirters, New Grp N oil pump, New Greedy oil pressure kit and I replaced the rear discs after one of the bearings collapsed and the disc cracked.
All I need to do now is add coolant and play with map settings for the 630cc Injectors I have added
Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet
Originally Posted by turbo ted
Well done James glad to here she all back together I like to hear the results of the new oil pump when she running hot as I have new oil which I have not fitted yet
good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road
That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..good work mate.... cant wait to see this on the road
Sorry James
That's why we call it the eclipse, miss it and you'll be waiting months for the next one..
Sorry James
All I got from that was my double din consol with the Renault cover.... Now with added hole and gauge... Philistine
not bad jim i could throw you a tow road lol
Sounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet?
Cheers, Should be attending the surrey meet in the 5. Got a few things to do before hand like adjust the gear stick selector every time I try to go into 1st it goes into blodoy reverse :-(, want to fit the wasted spark setup aswell next and then fit the bigger 630cc deka's. Then it's ready for mappingSounds awesome James, be coming in this to the meet?
RAC card never leaves the 5
Well suppose I should update the thread the car has been running faultless for over 500+ miles, the car is about to go through it's 5th oil and filter change. I even spent last night out with friends and we covered 63 miles of pretty much thrashing are car's other than one stop (My old silver evo 6 was in the group aswell). Other than cornering the 5 kept up with no issue's. So was good just need to get it mapped properly now.
I am also picking up some part's this eve as I was going to wide track the car and have sensors on each corner on the ABS ring's so I can have boost by gear and launch control installed properly.
So the part's I will have this eve are from a Clio Mk1 172, that will be 172 Hubs, 172 Driveshaft's, 172 Front Calliper's and disc's, 172 rear disc's (Have ABS ring's on), valver wishbone's. I am now on the look for a later valver ABS complete rear beam so I can swap over the entire setup and getting a little wider track at the rear aswell as front
god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl
god phil comes up with the idea and you nick it and get all parts before him pmsl
Assume I may have to look for longer track rods but I am tempted to change the track rods to some rod end bearing's
You can run with the existing 5 rear beam and use wheel spacers James? Using spacers on the rear won't be an issue to the geometry like it is when they are used in the front.
As for abs pick ups you could weld a bracket on to hold the abs sensor in place I believe others have done this.
Or another idea which I believe would work and possibly provide you with abs sensor mounts is to convert the 5 rear beam to the 172 rear stub axles. This should also widen the rear track and the abs 172 rear stub axle should have the mounts ready for the sensors. It also allows you the option to use the rear camber shims that are available.
Lewis 172 rear stub axle's would they bolt on or need some major modding to fit?
Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.
172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.
Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.
You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."
Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg
Clio 16v std rear width
Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
Last edited by Lewis; 07-09-2015 at 22:50.
Lewis many thanks great help, defo going to do that,
Good ole mod! Allows you to set camber too!
Why don't you just get 16v abs hubs for the front?
Or even easier, Clio 2 non sport hubs (exactly the same)
Only a small update, Cam cover off and sent to CTM for some Hydro Dipping, and ECU has been sent back to Scoff as IGn 2 output is not working. Car again now back of the road
It still worked if I wanted to keep it on dizzy using the IGN 1 output but the intention always was to use the wasted spark setup I had it was only when I went to put in wasted that I realised something was not right would only run on 2 cylinders, so a voltage test showed IGN 2 not doing anything. hoping scoff can fix what ever needs doing within the ecu.
I have installed the wasted spark setup awaiting the ECU return, I have also added to the loom for launch control Digital input 1 and the MVSS and SVSS wires for the hub sensors
Some modding required. According to Matt@coderedmotorsport "Heat up the stub, knock it out with a big hammer, cut the small flange off, grind/file it flat, modify the threads to accept countersunk bolts, bolt on 1*2 stubs with shims if you have some. Easy peasy!
Did it to one of the R5 gt turbos we race and my mk1 16v. Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.
172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.
Drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to accept the m10 bolt. Top left one I believe.
You could in theory just find 4 longer m8x1 bolts use the standard holes and create a shim insert in the 172 stub axle to close up the hole.
But seeing as all the standard renault stuff fits I just bought 2 extra m10 bolts."
Images borrowed from Clio Sport
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/8443/s6ir.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4418/5pbw.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6981/re8x.jpg
Clio 16v std rear width
Clio 16v rear beam with 172 Stub axles
Lewis do we know ho much wider doing the 172 rear stub axle conversion will make the gtt?? using these bit's??
Will add about 1cm each side iirc
Got a couple of update pic's from CTM this morning on my cam cover looking good apparently still not finished it yet, think some more clear coats and a polish up. I only went for a white background and a honeycomb effect, didn't want anything in your face. Now thinking of getting my cam pulleys done in a flame effect orange.
I also picked up all the 172 hub's, shafts, calipers, discs and I had to remove the stub axles of the clio myself last night what a bugger why do Renault use torx bolts on areas prone to heavy rusting :-( still I got them off after destroying several torx sockets
The clio phase 1 172 bit's, this discs and pads are apparently new and DS2500 lets see when I strip them down to clean everything up, they need a bloody good clean up.
Cam cover looks cool. Do they apply this like a transfer in a dip?
Looks like they bodged a bit but it wont be seen once you have the plastic cover in place?
Really liking the cam cover. Will be a nice addition to the bay
Yeah I noticed that also luckily it's under the plastics. From what I have seen its applied exactly as yiu describe
I'm not sure if the O/Side driveshaft is correct, did you get the parts from a clio 172 with the phase 2 front end?
The parts came off a green Phase 1 172 Exclusive I didn't remove the front end it was already off the car inside it, I took the stub axle's off though
Your right it does look different quick search and its a 182 version that bolts to the rear of the block.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3912342264...801&rmvSB=true
You need the one piece 172 shaft without the additional support onto the rear of the block for the widetrack conversion.
But how wide is wide...
See the 182 shaft might be ok as I am going to have to cut these down anyway seeing as I am not going full wide track I am merely fitting the 172 hubs only but that alone gives me a 14mm wider track in total at the front and about the same at the rear with the 172 stub axles in place some 1 deg neg camber at the rear using 172 shimsBut how wide is wide...
Hydro cam cover fitted (not best of lighting for pic though), Ill get another tomorrow
Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit
Your going to hate me james the second bigger breather on rocker cover drill it out bigger with 8/10mm drill bit
Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's.....
LOL it is pretty oldskool style.Your rocker cover reminds me of a duvet and curtain set I had back in the 90's.....
Daylight pic attached
Well now I am not so depressed lets talk about my last couple of day's. I had mapping done on the 07/10/2015, I fitted new Siemens Deka 630cc injectors. took the 1hr 20min drive to Surrey Rolling Road for Ed @ Fusion Motorsport to map my R5.
The results were ok not as good as I hoped as he kept it safe and said my exhaust manifold was causing a massive restriction. I ended up with 330.5bhp @19psi which isn't to bad at that boost. I was hoping for another 50bhp on top of that he did say he could have got me that but the manifold temperatures would have been way to high and as said I had a restriction on the ex manifold side. Downside to the map is the car won't start on a cold start :-( but then that side always takes a few day's to sort so I will attempt to do this part myself with help form the adaptronic forums.
Anyway the car came of the rollers and the turbo was rather loud just on idle (Bearing noise) we did a small road test and all seemed fine. 5mins into my journey home with no traffic I called the RAC to take me home. the GT2871r bearing core had failed:-(
On the road side I pulled the oil feed off and had a look and cranked over poured out fine, the oil pressure gauge is also T into the turbo oil feed and the pressure was perfect, I removed the core adaptor and again this was blockage free, now I tried to look down the turbo core and has they have a restrictor built in on these I couldn't see any blockages. Removed the air filter pipe and the turbo has very small amount of play but when bearings spun sounds awful.
Couple of pic's attached
Looks like I know what my restriction might have been seeing as the log manifold has been proven for 400bhp on a few car's now.
Turbo now off, trying to rtn it to the company I got it from but from what I have read and speaking with a good friend whom is a turbo specialist warranties don't cover BB core's so now crapping myself. I bought the item through ebay shop (yes genuine garrett) and I last night opened a paypal dispute, so let's see what happens on that.
Couple of pic's of turbo, blades all good and housing all still good, would appear to be the bearing gone only, but on a BB believe the bearing and rear wheel / shaft would need replacing and that's if a turbo company would sort.
Seem to have not much luck with this carthat's what I am worried about with the turbo on mine. spending out a lot of cash to then go like that
Tell me about it, I haven't found anything wrong with the setup yet, drained the oil and looks really really clean and I ditched the oil filter aswell even though the oil and filter only covered the run to the RR and the session (So less than 80miles on it).Seem to have not much luck with this car
Well new Turbo core ordered
I also decided to ditch my complete original turbo oil feed setup including adaptors, So a trip to my local Pirtek (Crawley) and they made me a brand new line with all new adaptors for £67
I was hoping to use the small bit of cash I had put aside for the car to get a decent manifold and downpipe made or pick up a 2nd hand one doesn't look like that will be happening for some time now
I still need to sort out the cold start map but can't do anything until the turbo is sorted and the hopefully get the car to pod on the 24th
James, are you running a restrictor in the oil line to the RB turbo? I'm sure we used to on the Nissans.
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