Bar putting the car on the floor and re flushing it out.. Cleaning it taxing it she's good to goOriginally Posted by Nad-5GTT
What happens then is anyone's guess. But she ran fine for a good hour revved the nutts off it an it flutterd the turbo so hopefully were all good. Fuels abut all over the place but I will know more when I get it out there.. But again back to family life so she can stay In the garage for another couple of weeks..
Ha a lot of help from great members and I thank you all..
Go woody! Well done
Now...get boostin and report back
It's not taxed bud or I would of been out already.. Few other things I want doing now only little things but no rush... Main thing it's running and thank you to all that helped. Won't be driven till pay day at least..Go woody! Well done
Now...get boostin and report back
Great work. This was a big undertaking. Let us know how it goes on the road.
As you say above, the club's done you proud here
So went for the first run with the b18 and it was all
Cool. So pretty lively with a t28 then. What sort of rpm is the turbs spoiling?
Will be interested to hear how it goes on a funt out.
MonsterCool. So pretty lively with a t28 then. What sort of rpm is the turbs spoiling?
Will be interested to hear how it goes on a funt out.1st spin 2nd spin 3rd spin then grips and pulls and pulls some more. Instant tourque steer very happy boy today.. Few things to do still as always.. Tomorrow cleaning all day and need to sort the knocking back box out.. Apart from that happy happy happy
well done mate, id love to know how different the T28 runs with the b18ft engine, I take my missus to see her friend in derby occasionally. will try and hook up with you next time im down.
Like the sound of that. I will have the same setup as you so looking forward to it.Monster
I spent a couple of hrs out on the roads and I'm more than happy there when you want it and a nice drive if you don't. Afrs are good and so much more stable than with the carb. Early days and all that but I hope it will be fun for a while. It's definatley heavier front end when cornering and I can't imagine my tyres are going to last long on track. Pulling out of the Islands was fun.. And typically I didn't see one sports motor to play with lol.. As above I'm very happy with b18 so far..Like the sound of that. I will have the same setup as you so looking forward to it.
Right then guys... Hit my first hurdle went out friday and it ran like a dream.. Now wont start at all.. Checked everything all pipes all hoses everything is new getting fuel got compression and spark but still wont start.. Arfter many hrs mucking around i can only think the spark isnt strong enough to fire her up.. Now should the spark be blue? As mine is a light orange if that makes sense? Whats the correct term for the coil? Im looking on ebay but nothings coming up.. The unit were the king lead comes off im thinking that might be on its way out.. Anyone got a part number? Cheers its bugging the crap outa me as it ran so well friday..
Is the battery fully charged? is the fuel pump priming whilst cranking?
Hi haz
Batterie is new and fully charged fuel pump is new and I can't hear the fuel pump when cranking as the chambers are full spark plugs are wet about four times iv checked. New relays. Even when I bridge it to get the pump working it still won't fire up and that's with the pump on all the time. Truly am puzzled with this one.. Will have another go later..
Fuel pump is wired in with injectors, so if that's not priming, they aren't working.
Chambers are full ?? Chances are the plugs have got wet while your bridging it.
Is the tacho fluttering during cranking?
Well I just tried again and your right it's no turning the pump on from the key if I touch a wire to the + and to the relay it starts the pump.. I just don't get how it worked fine for a couple of days but not now.. I didn't touch a thing.. Just put two more new relays in and still nothing.. Is it going to be me putting a switch to the pump? Thanks haz..
Lots of items are linked in the loom, you've tested the pump is fine so the ecu isn't telling it to turn on.
Does the tacho flutter?
What's the tacho bud? What I did was take a plug out and turn it over and lots of fuel came out the plug hole and when it clears it self it tried to runput the plug back in it then seems to flood it's self again.. Even though I haven't heard the pump go.
Tried bridging the pump and get it running but nothing.. It's hard to explain over here something's a miss and it's doing my head In
Fact is I haven't a clue
Tacho = rev counter (usually)
Ooooh right in that case it worked fine Friday and now it dosnt..Tacho = rev counter (usually)
I think Haz was saying, does the rev counter needle flutter (i.e. make tiny movements), while you're turning it over.
Not now guys.. So are we thinking crank sensor?I think Haz was saying, does the rev counter needle flutter (i.e. make tiny movements), while you're turning it over.
sounds like it
No way of testing these? I'm using the one off my old 5sounds like it
Well took it off looks ok cleaned it stuck it back on and now no spark at allwill order one tomorrow.. I was getting used to bit pissing about with cars.. See what happens with a new one..
Just one thing is the volvo flywheel in the same place as in is it thicker? The reason I say this is I left the guard off this time dose it need to be spaced in any way? Or straight fit? Thanks for the help guys
Possibly the crank sensor, but if your getting a spark before then it should be ok, it should read around 250 ohms with a multimeter. The guard should go on after sensor then bolts in, so doesn't need spacing. Is it on correctly, wrong spacing could cause it not to work. Worth checking connectors esp where Volvo meets Renault too.
Which wire have you used for the tacho? Some use a direct from the coil neg, others the green wire in the main Volvo loom connector which is linked to injectors. I guess the latter with spark but no fuel.
Where is the Volvo switched live attached, thin grey or grey/white in same connector, should be to second click of ignition. Again should be ok if there's a spark.
Engine earth ok?
The only concern is that the fuel pump isn't priming but sounds like its flooding the engine. Unless its because your manually bridging the pump, that's normally due to blowing the outputs of the ecu, which leaves the injectors fully open.
Going to buy a multi meter today.. Looks like I'm going tobe needing one with this set up.. The plot thickens.. Thanks for all your help.. Again I really am no electric expert but I will have a look..
Should have kept the carb
**** the carb.. I was well happy with it Friday... Just a bit of teething issues as with any god dam motorsShould have kept the carb
Orderd a new sensor for £14 might aswell eliminate that out. Orderd some scuttle covers to hide the ecus..
See how we get on..
I really an shite at electrics but I got a meter I watched my you tube vid so now I'm a expert (not)
Right so iv tested
Batterie = 12.54
Ecu large 1 pin gets 12.53
Small ecu gets 12.39
Alternator gets at + 12.53
Relay = gets 12.50
Injector plug 0.62
All on 2nd click of the key..
Haven't tried turning it as I'm on my own..
What else guys?
That's about right as they are all kinda linked.
Timing ecu, black one, pin 5 and 6 should be live too. Check relay ecu's that you already have and check they are still live during cranking, albeit they will drop to around 10v
Yer sorry 5-6 was the same..
What's my next step then haz? Should there be power at the loom side of the crank sensor? As there isn't or dose that happen at turn of the key?
That's right haz it dropped to 10v
Sorry the crank sensor from loom reads 2.92 on the 2nd key is that right? Haven't tried turning it
Sound, so long as they all stay live during cranking they're good. Tdc sensor should only be during cranking, when the ecu see's the engine turning it should turn the fuel pump on.
Assume it's just that sensor then.
Did you check it's resistance, 200 ohm setting on meter.
2.92 even when cranking it.. I'm guessing that a wrong?
I have now and it says 0.28 so that's the same on 2nd key and cranking
Ah, the decimal point just moves along for each meter setting, so would read 292, so not like its dead. Faulty wiring? Is the connector on loom and sensor still good, plug it into the loom and check resistance from the Volvo side of the loom, should read the same.
That's odd.. Connect them both together and it just says - ? No numbers
This is starting to sound similar to the issues I had with my b18
Please tell me you've fixed it
Well, there's you fault. You got another sensor to try?
Orderd one this morning haz will be here tomorrow..
Let's hope it is that nice easy fix
Thanks for everything it's much appreciated
Which Volvo loom do you have, 2 or 3 pin tdc connector? And are you bench testing the sensor or is it in position?
There wasn't a connector on there it's spades and it's fitted to the car
And I have the orange ecu if that helps?
Haz didPlease tell me you've fixed it
Spades can be problematic, better to just twist the wires for testing, solder in for permanent.
Don't think it matters which way round it's wired as the ecu should figure that out but should be red to yellow, black to white iirc.
Yours was a dodgy relay that was still clicking but not sending the power through wasnt it Ross? That was a head scratcher!
Well there are three wires close but only using two if that makes sense? As I say it worked awesome Friday I was chuffed with it and I'm sure the ecu is already unlocked as it flu with plenty of boost (gauge wasn't working) but if there's more to get out the car I'm scared as it was pretty mental as is.. But then again iv been driving a fiat for three months
That was it mate. Bloody thing still isn't running happy though so when the new engine is fitted and got some miles on it, I'm going for adaptronic.
Alright guys it's not the crank sensor tried it this time and it's blown the fuel pump fuse?
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