Clio williams F7R Turbo engine, still for sale, but what exactly are you paying for?

[BILLY-R5GTT]

I am having some trouble selling this engine and some people are saying it's very expensive for what it is? Yes compared to some engines on this forum and engines other forums it may look expensive but it's not some engine just thrown together like alot are.

To start with anybody can build an engine or put one together, but it takes another person to do it properly and get the most out of the engine itself.

Why I choose a Williams F7R 2.0 16v engine in the first place? They are superior to a F7P hence why they were built, bigger valves, more aggressive cam profile and obviously the larger bore and longer stroke. Renault always favoured the the F7R over the F7P in all their racing cars, such as the clio maxi rally car and their N/A BTCC Laguna which produced around 320bhp. The F7R also produces more lower down torque over the F7P.

The route I could have gone down and saved some money was fully rebuilding the standard F7P out of my 19 16v on my own, its not hard at all i've done it before on a C1J. But I am not a professional and I don't have the correct tools, yes I could have sent parts off and received them back, polished, ground with bearings to match and re assembled it. That would have been the cheap way and I guarantee after a few weeks of running it the engine would be back out again causing me problems.

Most cylinder bores in cars once the they have been used over a period of time become ovaled as some people on here will be well aware of. On an N/A build this doesn't really matter to much, fit a new set of rings, get it honed and away you go and your engine will last. However on a turbo build it's a different kettle of fish, tolerances have to be exact for the boost pressure and compression ratio. You either have to bore the block out slightly and fit oversized pistons or you have to bore the block out, get it re ligned and fit the standard pistons back in to a factory fit which I did. There was no way I was wasting my time doing a build which was going to fail a few months down the line. The engineers even said to me I could save £350 on the build by just getting the bores honed and putting the standard pistons back in after skimming but it's cutting corners if you want a strong, reliable engine with some good power figures. I didn't want to take anychances, I wanted a relaible 260-270bhp I could use as a daily driver to work and back but also take it for a blast at weekends over the tops in the high peak for fun.

Then came lowering the compression, who ever says just skim X amount off the pistons and you have a compression ratio of X is talking crap!! It doesn't work that way at all and anyone who knows about engines will varify this. A couple of factors you have to take into consideration, has the head been skimmed before and has the block/pistons ever been skimmed previous for any reason, and also the head gasket thickness. My engine was properly put together for a trial build, torqued down the compression ratio was calculated @ 9.77 then the head and pistons get matched and the compression is then lowered to 8.50. It's all good just saying skim 5mm off the pistons, sending them off to get skimmed then fitting them into an engine and not knowing what the actual comp ratio is and thinking it is running a 8.5:1 when your not.Then your either not getting the right power out of your engine or you are adding more boost to get your power figures up and putting alot more stress on internal components.

My next option was getting the engine fully race balanced, this was an extra £150 but it is the most important part of any engine build. A simple question, would you drive at 120mph with the tyres on your car unbalanced? Or would you fit an unbalanced turbo to your car? No why? Because as you know the car would probably shake itself to peices and cause serious amounts of damage! This is exactly what an a tuned engine will do itself if you don't get it done, making it rev slower, become unreliable, and run rough inside. Tests have proven when you take two engines which are exactly the same and race balance one of them you will get around 30% more power and torque alone with NO other modifications. Benifits include allowing the engine to rev higher, reduces wear on all of the internals, reduces the need for a heavier flywheel, smoother pick up, and also spreads the load of the engine equally over all its components to extract the maximum power possible from the engine. All the comonents in my engine have been equally weighed to ensure the highest quality build possible. All the rods have been weighed, matched and also balanced end to end, I have also had my paddle clutch matched to the engine. I have full documentation to prove this.

The head has been fully stripped and checked and fully rebuilt with new seals, guides etc.. to a factory standard.

A new oil pump has been fitted, a dayco timing belt kit, and top quality seals, bolts and gaskets have all been used during this build. No expense has been spared anywhere.

Why didn't I go forged you might ask? Unless you are running 320+ bhp and massive boost you won't need forged internals in this engine. The rods would be the first thing to go, not the pistons, but in this engine with it being race balanced there is no issue at all running up to a reliable 300bhp safely. Unless your fuelling is wrong you won't be looking at a melted piston in here either as there is plenty of material left on the crown. You can do all the forging you want to an engine, seen it done, rods, pistons etc... but have it fitted in an unbalanced engine and the wrong fuelling and you'll only drop a big end!

I guarantee this is one of the best engines that has come up on this forum for sale. F7P's are 10 a penny. Even getting a good standard F7R you will pay £500 and it will be in used condition, so for an extra £800 you can have a fully recon turbo engine
, Helix 4 paddle clutch worth £400, turbo manifold, boost gauges, turbo adapters etc etc.

Don't forget this is a fully recon race spec turbo engine, unused and built buy one of the best builders in Greater Manchester

I would love to see the results from this engine and I am gutted to see it go.

You are paying for a quality relaible engine with printouts of all the work carried out. I am looking for £1300 which is more than reasonable considering the bottom end alone cost me £1425! (not including the water pump and oil pump) And you are getting all the other bits chucked in.

It has to go to someone wanting a serious build.

[BILLY-R5GTT]

Still got it, has to go any offers?

[w35ty]

if its avaliable after im back off holiday which is in 4weeks mote than likely take it off your hands mate

[BILLY-R5GTT]

No problem Westy, struggling to sell it to be honest. I thought someone on here would have snapped it up pretty quickly.