know how you feel buddy, been there a few times with my ongoing project
have a break for a few weeks, and start again then, you will feel more positive and things will go alot better
just dont leave it to long or you start thinking of bigger mods, well i do anyway
You have a point there, sometimes if you don't actually use it and enjoy it for a while motivation can evaporate into thin air.
I used mine a little yesterday, only about 20 miles or so but when i walked out from the supermarket and it was parked amongst all the non discript boaring modern motors and all the thumbs up you get ECT plus giving it some lead foot and i was smiling like a Cheshire cat afterwards.
And all the pissing about was worth it.
I've had to have a time out with it till Monday anyway as Mike cant get me the parts until Saturday then its down to royal fail.
Fancied a day off it watching virgin media and eating crap instead haha.
Ill start again Monday and refit the cover, put the EFI parts bracket back on and finish dressing the loom. I think ill have to get a scuttle cover as its a bit of a mess in there with the wires!
Once its all done and the base map gets it idling we can have a play with the launch control and hard cut limiter.
its finished, it went to EFI and made good figures, the whole thing will be documented and posted when I find my photobucket details.
We'll might as well start where I left this with the old timing sensor bracket snapping off......
once the timing cover was removed it showed the vernier had been dining on the inside.....
And the bottom bearing cover had a crack in it causing oil leaks.....
One phone call to mike at gt turbo spares and a new cover and cork gasket, all glued up with 600c silicone.
Next we wired the Nodiz pro MK1 up. This consisted of.........
1x nodiz pro
1x ford wasted spark coil pack
4x leads
1x 3 bar MAP sensor
1x exhaust temp sensor
1x coolant temp sensor
1mm wire various colours
EFI parts crank sensor and bracket
36-1 trigger wheel which was already fitted
1x IP65 waterproof adaptable box
various stuffing glands
As im an electrician and were renowned for doing shoddy work on our own personal jobs I went to town lashing it in poorly.
Well, we tried and tried to get it to work and after 10 hours of messing with the software and difficulty timing it the thing still wouldn't work. We tried different earthing points and moved the coil and it worked, but with a borrowed base map we didn't want to push the envelope.
ALL this took 6 MONTHS!!!! one because im lazy and 2 because my mate the tuner did this as a favour, also the garage is toasty warm shelter for the 5.
Mark at GT Motorsport finally got it mapped to a decent standard with no idea of figures but no det and no leaning out.
During this time I could not resist revving to 8k and having a blitz, which resulted in my very first bent rod arhhhhhhhhhh!
All checked out and no damage, swapped the rod and away we go.
I booked the car in with scoff and the week before the date I ordered the nodiz pro MK2 with the new processor and it was agreed that I fit it before I go efi parts.
I also decided to remove the shoddy wiring and connectors, I used a soldering iron to do a proper job. Also I used silicone pipe from ECU box to plug connector to ensure no ingress or mechanical damage, when the tubes came through the bulkhead I used stuffing glands instead of grommet holes to prevent fumes entering the bulkhead.
All sorted I started it up first time as ME uploaded my old base map pre delivery.
The night before EFI...
At EFI I asked if the car could be ran up on its initial setting out of curiosity....
It was 159bhp@9 psi with a Major boost leak at the bleed valve.
Scoff drilled a restrictor and placed it in the vac hose between the carb lobster and bleed valve that runs to the actuator.
Getting there 220 bhp.
closer 226bhp.....
closer 229......
The magic run 231.3@22psi
Scoff has said that with an extra injector at the carb activated by a solenoid is the next step in the tune as the carb is emptying in 4th and 5th gears. The nodiz pro has output features to allow a solenoid to be activated by it wherever on the map which again gives me the bonus of fine tuning a carb. The FPR is set at 7psi and I have a uprated pump so fuelling shouldn't be an issue.
So for now a visit is planned for next year with the extra injector which is a small job, and looking at the curves I certainly think 240 isn't far away with the extra fuel.
The car is set to have a new bonnet fitted and a complete front end and wings re-spray as well as the GT turbo badge on the rear getting a red and black re paint.
Nice work
I really like this build. Did you data log the inlet temps at different boosts? Would be interesting to know what they were if you've got them?
The sensors I've got are just bosch standards and do not read real time, I can only see max tempts on the logger. Hopefully on a track day or dyno this year I can bring the laptop and read the live mode and see what's going on.Originally Posted by Matty
I really like this build. Did you data log the inlet temps at different boosts? Would be interesting to know what they were if you've got them?
When the car is up to temp and is being driven hard the needle doesn't move from its perfect position in between the 2nd and 3rd bars on the engine coolant temp WHEN the chargecooler is switched on the engine coolant needle drops onto the 2nd bar exactly. This leads me to believe the CC cools the engine by 15% so we must be talking super cool exhaust gas temperatures.
Cheers Phil. It was a struggle like yours, perhaps we should have self help books out by now based on our experiences haha.Nice work
Awesome power that. Where you thinking of putting the injector?
I honestly don't know, ive spoken to Sparkie on the phone ans Scoff when I went to RR and have a few ideas, ive got a couple of people I know on the FB page who have done the modification so ill keep the thread posted
I've been down my friends body shop today and was blown off my feet at how many cars were booked in because of bumps over the xmas and new year period.
The car is booked in next Friday to have the front and rear bumpers repaired and painted, the grill repaired and painted, brand new primed OE bumper painted, both wings, and various scratches around the car sorted.
The body shop lads will level up and make the front end look like new symmetry wise.
The tax runs out at the end of the month and the car will be squirreled away until March/April once yhe bodywork is sorted ready for the 2015 season so to speak.
Excellent thread, really enjoyed reading it.
What's your thoughts on the extra fueling ? You going for the banjo method?
Thanks mate the 2nd chapter is coming soon.
Don't think so mate, I really like the way the chap did his (the picture of the one from the old RTOC website) where he had drilled the carb bowl and used a nitrous fueling solenoid.
Adam Ford on the FB page mentioned feeding the carb bowl from underneath through a hole where you put the screwdriver to remove the main jet. I need to understand the carburettor first before I decide.
There are 3 ways. Banjo, underside fed (as explained ⬆) and drilling the bowl as the old rtoc page shows.
Friends on FB have sent me pictures of EP motorsport method of drilling the very top of the inlet manifold just underneath the diamond shaped mount that the carb sits on. There is a cylindrical part between the diamond and the inlet manifold itself, 2 cm above the start of the branch. Drill it, thread it and put a standard bosch injector in using a pressure switch etc to activate it.
You won't have to drill the carb bowl. The banjo would screw into the drain plug on the front, same as in the pic I showed you.
The old DD Autosports car had two yellow injectors via bosses into the back of the inlet manifold. This directed fuel straight into the ports. Crude but worked. Send ashy a PM. He might have a pic of it.
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