Im just a bit confused as were ive read in the hayes manual and other places it always sounds like the mark on the the cam sprocket should face the mark on the crank sprocket at tdc , but with the engine ive took out my five the mark on the cam sprocket point s away from the engine like in picture just want to confirm thats right.
Rotate the crank another 360 degrees!!
Thats wrong if u ask me that , as you say the mark on the cam sprocket should face the mark on the crank sprocket ...... the way its done may have no effect on the timing not sure so it may be A ok , but if i was rebuilding it i would have it with the two marks facing each other at tdc if u want standard cam timing.
Thats why I think its strange in the picture its at tdc, and I dont think that engine has been touched cam wise since it left the factory.
like ashy says, turn the crank another full turn! it's fine.
mmm thinking about it , are you 100% sure you are at tdc ....???
like Ashy and Scoff say, turn it another 360 deg, and at the same time take a few minutes to read up on the principles of the 4 stroke internal combustion engine.
I might just lock this thread, getting sick of people not listening to me...
Pistons 1 and 4 are at there highest pointso peeps im still learning, I thought this was a way of getting tdc
Do you have maths at 11+ level or above?Originally Posted by bernard
Pistons 1 and 4 are at there highest point
Failing that, using your toes and fingers count the teeth on both sprockets and calculate how many times the big cog turns in relation to one rotation of the little cog
and they will be again if you turn the crank another full turnPistons 1 and 4 are at there highest point
ok I will give it a go.lol sorry being a numpty
I assure you it will work
Are you doing your first re-build?
yeah I am, Im still not to sure on how to do the timing proberley as ive fitted a piper 285 cam and veiner pully ive got the jist of it But still a bit unsure.
this is my tread on a other site:http://www.renault5gtturbo.com/forum...=2656&start=60
Good luck with the rebuild...
bernard,Pistons 1 and 4 are at there highest point
with every [360deg] full turn of the crank pulley the cam pulley only moves half a turn.
take your picture for example, yes both no#1 [flywheel side] and no#4 [waterpump side] pistons are at the top of there stroke. but with the cam pulley in that position it tells you that no#4 piston at the top of its compression stroke.
so if you turn the crank pulley 1 full turn [360deg] you will then find that no#1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke and both the pulley markers will be directly facing each other.
a tip for fitting a vernier -
fit the standard pulley first, then swap to the vernier without moving anything, that way you'll be pretty close when you start.
Good pic in this thread. Never seen this part of the engine with my own eyes (i.e. I've never had to remove the timing chain cover thankfully), and never been able to visualise properly. Thanks
Ahh, that's what the chain tensioner looks like!
Thanks for the advice guys, Andrew I ve done what you have said to do now can give me some advice to time it up propley from what I can gather I need to set to tdc on the protractor with a pointer then one of the inlet valves should be fully open at 112 deg is this right? sorry Im finding this quite confusing any tips would be brill.
Anyone?
do you have a dial indicator?
engine looks good, how close to coilbound are your springs?
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=la6-EgnCOl4
find TDC the same way as he finds the centre of the cam lobe (obviously using the top of the piston)
No I dont have a dial indicator (is that the same as a dial gauge?) Can it done without? im not sure what you mean about how close to coil bound my springs are??
When you fitted that 285 cam, did you also change the valve springs?
yes I did matey.
Piper's?
yeah I got the whole kit.
Ok, you shouldn't have any coilbound issues then, assuming you aren't gonna go silly high with the revs (ie, Sparkie territory).
depends on shims etc, looks close to me. You check it at full lift with a feeler gauge. i wouldn't have mentioned it if it didn't look close in the picture.
You will need a Dial indicator. I tried doing it using the "twiddle your pushrods" method and it's not at all acurate.
so does coilbound mean when a spring is to closed up?sorry for my ignorance.
Yes. Look at the picture above (bottom one) and you'll see the second valve spring in looks like it's almost at the point where it's been compressed so much that the coils are touchng (coilbound).
Any good tips to adjust adjustable vernier pulley? I have 285 piper, T25 turbo, Twin choke carb, bigger valves, FMIC and so on.
Do you have a Dial guage and a mag stand? If not, get one, Chronos do them for about £15. You'll need that to be bob on
If your fitting a new timing chain, i would allow for some degree of strech/bedding in when setting up the vernier. I think me and mr ash allowed 1 deg which once run in should have been hopefully within 1 deg of 112.
translation - after pissing about for an hour we landed on 114deg, the pub was about to open and Ashy said "it'll stretch, mine's a pint"
Just to let you lot know I got all the cam timing sorted I got my local engine builders to do it in the end also the valve springs weren't coilbound so its all good done over 300 miles in the new engine and its all good well apart from a oil leak
did you measure the mean opening or the point that it got to 112°translation - after pissing about for an hour we landed on 114deg, the pub was about to open and Ashy said "it'll stretch, mine's a pint"
the proper way is to work out the mean (ie average) and get the point on full opening smak on between 110° & 114° you have to measure the opening point and the closing point
then your cam will be spot on
Just seen this hahahahahatranslation - after pissing about for an hour we landed on 114deg, the pub was about to open and Ashy said "it'll stretch, mine's a pint"
translation - after pissing about for an hour we landed on 114deg, the pub was about to open and Ashy said "it'll stretch, mine's a pint"
Not before checking the bores for ovality if I know Matchew
Using the original pulley to get somewere near seams to be the way George!
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