5-40 oil would this cause the car to smoke like mad because it's too thin and is seeping through rings etc
5-40 oil would this cause the car to smoke like mad because it's too thin and is seeping through rings etc
Anyone?
imo yes. 10-40 seems to be the prefered oil to use.
not sure of the advantages of useing a thinner oil.
Thinner oil at high temps will thin even more and pass by seals
so what are we saying then ? we need to run thicker oil on modded engines ?
Not just a modded engine any engine or c1j for examples sake..
Look at the stated oil from renault.. work off what the say.
Also if you search this will pop up a fair few times, not that iam saying search never post as thats just gay.. but for a general opinion the dsearch on this should give you a conclusive answer.
to thin and say hello to smokey oil seals etc
i used to put 10w 60 fully synthetic in mine but was told it was overkill for the c1j
i use 15w40 elf from renault as its £1 litre
If its cheaper than petrol be rude not to!
Originally Posted by markey b
i use 15w40 elf from renault as its £1 litre. seriously
Tee hee. To be honest Al no grade of oil should cause your car to smoke like that! I'd certainly inpect the turbo seals like I mentioned, and it might be worth having a look at the breather system as well
5-40 is only thinner than 10-40 when cold any way
Ha A look at the back, no oil anywhere. Anyway changed the oil now, done about 50 miles no smoke?? HmmmTee hee. To be honest Al no grade of oil should cause your car to smoke like that! I'd certainly inpect the turbo seals like I mentioned, and it might be worth having a look at the breather system as well
The thing is your car only appears to be smoking now and again - not all the time, so It might be worth running the car without the elbow on (it will be VERY noisy!) and see if you've a weep then.
5-40 shouldnt make it smoke, assuming the engine is good nick..you need to comp test.
have a read of this, has a whole section on oils being to thin.
I run Mobil 1 0w40 for the cold starts in the winter!
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained
I also used Mobil 0W40 in the 5GTT C1J. No smoking, leaking or any other nonsense that people get into their heads.
As was already said, it's only 0 when cold, so it lubricates better by reaching the parts other oils can't reach.
Anyway, I presume that's the idea.
When hot it's 40, same as most everything else.
The engine was more free when cold once I fitted the 0W40.
yeah w stands for winter and the number beforeit stands for the temperture its remains functional to. So 0w40 will be less viscous and more flowing than 10w40 at 0 degrees, so on start up will get to the parts ie turbo quicker so will help prevent damage. But when up to temperature they will be the same thickness and behave the same around the engine.
The only thing with an oil like 0w is it's obviously very thin when cold (as mentioned) and therefore won't 'cling' to components like a 5/10/15 grade oil for example, so on initial stary up you'll actually have less lubrication momentarily.....
That said, I've used 0w-40 oil in my R5 when the engine had 100+k on it and it was fine!
Very good
As discused the 5W-40 - 5 refers to the viscosity rating cold - sure its -20 but whatever it is it's colder than we will see lol
The 40 is viscosity when hot - iirc 120deg
Been a while so the temps may be off but they are around that scale - condition of engine plays its part in why some cars perform different on different grades but I tend to worry about the top end rating for track use and run 15W-50 on the VX220 turbo but only becuase I like to try and cook the engine and the 50 gives me a bit extra protection. OE is 5W-30 most modded ones run 5W-40. A few run 0W-40 with no issues but prob regular oil changes make the biggest difference
DG
Sorry if I sound like I'm being a bit terse, but it is sooo not! Please read the article and stop stating completely wrong opinion as fact! Thank you
Just think about it, why would the biggest companies make a 0 grade oil? It's not so cold engines wear faster.
It's nothing to do with cling and everything to do with flow.
Magnatec claims to cling, does it though? I don't know. Is it even a fully Synthetic, I never been able to tell. Hence using Mobil 1 so there in no vagueness with the label.
yeah w stands for winter and the number beforeit stands for the temperture its remains functional to. So 0w40 will be less viscous and more flowing than 10w40 at 0 degrees, so on start up will get to the parts ie turbo quicker so will help prevent damage. But when up to temperature they will be the same thickness and behave the same around the engine.
Again, please read the article
Unless your engine is actually at 120°C then you may be cause premature wear with a 50 oil.
IIRC, my 5GTT sump temperature would peak at about 110°C in summer after a period of very hard use.
Must read thread before posting infoAgain, please read the article
DG
Ops missed it again - I was seeing some high temps on track in the European track days and between this and 120 had been recorded which was not great, extra ext oil cooler sorted it out in the end but never had any issues wth 20k of hard miles before I stripped it for rebuild but just my experiance - def a lot to be said for sticking to recommended ratings, decent oil and reg changes
That article is the best and clearest explanation I've so far read.
Looking at how thick the oil is at 0°C and 20°C it's a shame they don't do a -10W40 !!
I once used the Castrol somethingW60 in the 5GTT and the engine was holding back all the time when hot. Like it had lost it's get up and go and it's power.
The newly built 5GTT with the 0w40 was making 6 bar of oil pressure when cold, according to the OE gauge when was showing the correct stated figures prior to that. I put the increase down to the new breaing everywhere especially the close fitting ones inthe turbo. I also wondered in the rather thin braided hose to the turbo was causing that increase.
I've said this about 0w so many times in past years. Many people just don't seem to listen or understand.
yup, between myself and my bro we bought it all! they had about 30 bottles of old stock so we bought them, think i'm down to the last 5 or 6 left
At £1 a litre why are they selling that off? Does it have a shelf life?
I got the Mobil 1 from Costco.
You sound terse!Sorry if I sound like I'm being a bit terse, but it is sooo not! Please read the article and stop stating completely wrong opinion as fact! Thank you
Just think about it, why would the biggest companies make a 0 grade oil? It's not so cold engines wear faster.
It's nothing to do with cling and everything to do with flow.
Magnatec claims to cling, does it though? I don't know. Is it even a fully Synthetic, I never been able to tell. Hence using Mobil 1 so there in no vagueness with the label.
Id select an oil on the cars use...
Most of our race cars (porsches) either run 10/50 or 20/50....
Road cars 10/40... Porsche recommend 0/40, Im sure its doing its job ok but i just feel its to thin, (i fully understand oil and temp ranges).. We have rebuilt 90-95 boxster and 996 engines since may last year, as i speak ive got 6 x 997 porsches at work all with 20-50k mileage max all with scored bores .. I only recommend 10/40 to our customers and all our maintance cars (around 150 on the plan) run such oil and not yet had one engine issue.. (probably more down to our stricked service plan)..
Just to state i aint saying anything is wrong with such oil.. this is just IMO after dealing this such make of car for that last 9 years...
Ive only used halfords 15/40 ( i think it is) on my GT... dont think you can go wrong with the stuff...
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