A above it's being a pig and was wondering if anyone had any tips on making it easier???
A above it's being a pig and was wondering if anyone had any tips on making it easier???
Remove black plastic cover under rear bench, disconnet cable and pipes, create special tool by using exhaust section clamp as a handle and a long metal flat bar bar with holes in so you can bolt your ex section clamp onto then bend ends of rod so fits either side of the fuel sender unit and then you can turn it out.
confused as to why you have put this in???Originally Posted by Mart
im looking for an easier way of removing it and which direction i need to hit it clockwise or anti???
He's probably wondering why you've posted the same thing twice.
He's probably wondering why you've posted the same thing twice.
Matt,
You ad any joy using that tool... its any easy job to do... read your haynes, just make sure you tabe the hose's & wires down and out of the way.
Remember its advised if use a new seal on it!
un-locks anti clock wise
No joy at all mate the one he made me doesn't fit so he's making a new one
locate the end of the plastic ring.
use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock it round anticlockwise.
keep hammering until its come out of the hole....
remove sender unit.
Right removed it easily and it was fine?? Cleaned it up put it back and it still reads full even tho it's not?? I've also cleaned the switch and it's still Reading wrong?
does it still read full even with the sender unplugged ? (the 3 pin plug on the top of the sender)
They read nothing empty then
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
put another sender in mate . there are many things that can cause a short . which is probably causing your problem . by fitting a new or good secondhand unit will eliminate the sender unit from your list of possible causes . if the gauge works properly after fitting a new sender . problem sorted .
with electrical problems , it's all about elimination .
hope this helps
on it looking to get a one in good nick off here hopefully
did you actually take the unit apart? - and physically see the circuit board with the little slider that moves over it along with the float?
yeah took it out and checked it and it looked fine
Fitted new sender and still reads wrong what next???
did you ever check the fuse ?
But If it was the fuse wouldn't it read nothing??
mattys just fitted my spare clocks and the fuel gaude still seems to be playing up!
the fuel gauge seem to twitch slightly, also when you put the indicators on the gauge twitches in sync with them.!
as raj said:
its always reading near full on the gauge until about 5 mins before its empty, i have now changed fuel senders and clocks but no change?? help please
Sounds like a wiring fault to me if the guage is twitching in sync with the indicator
noticed that mine does it very slightly today aswell sometimes on the footbrake i get a twitch
Oh and mark need to do me handbrake sometime as its w**k
Is it easy to rewire??
i would guess there its not earthing somewhere so maybe it would need tracing back?
Have you checked the switching unit that's hidden behind the right rear interior panel?
It's item 275 in WD115 (Auxiliary Pump Timer) the sender unit runs through it.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 15-01-2009 at 20:57.
I'd say crap earthing somewhere too.
start with the earth on the fuel sender, take it direct to something on the body for a test.
On the Aux pump circuit diagram does pin 3 on the sender go to the dash gauge?? and pin 2 is monitored by the timer module until it reads a certain resistance and then runs the aux pump??Have you checked the switching unit that's hidden behind the right rear interior panel?
It's item 275 in WD115 (Auxiliary Pump Timer) the sender unit runs through it.
Yes and yes.
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