Turbo porblems, turbo company are telling me you should not adjust actuator?

[gttjames]

Hi guys, im after abit of advice please. As some of you may be aware, my turbo let go not to long ago, it only covered around 2.5k at 12/13psi - when i originally got the turbo i told them i want to run 20/22psi max, more than likely jsut 20psi and low lag, so they provided me with a t25.47 - i run it at 12/13psi for, then when i get my afr gauge all set up etc i started playing with the carb, i thought it was the norm to adjust the actuator for more boost? Seen it done everywhere, people on here told me to etc read guides on adjusting actuator for more boost. Anyway wound it out a few more turns, and using the vacum/pressure tester tool at work plugged it up and pumped up to 14psi at which point the actuator opened, i then wound it a few more turns and noticed it still only opened at 14psi, so i wound it back a couple of turns to where it opened at 14psi but was closer to standard positon if that makes sense. So there was a few threads left ona ctuator arm. I run it like this for 100/150miles - and came on here, or spoke to marky mark (i think) and he said to just use a bleed valve, so i did, used a bleed valve, half adjustments at a time until i was upto 18psi on my in car gauge - Loved it, but it only lasted about 20miles, before it started smoking. So took it off noticed the side to side movement so the turbo company told me to send it back.

After a week they rung up and 1st conversation went like this

'Hi james yer your turbo isnt looking good, have you adjusted boost to other than standard'.

Yes i said, i bought it off you originally and told you i wanted to run 20psi and this is the turbo unit you recomended'.

'oh really? well it looks like the actuator might have caused the problem as youv adjusted it'.

i said yes i have adjusted it upto 14psi via actuator.

'oh well the actuator isnt strong enough for 20psi'

ok i said, well why wasnt i provided with a actuator suitable for 20psi as that is what i stated on my order'

'urm well if thats the case i will need to have a word with my staff and see whats going on'

So i forwarded a email conversation i ahd with them which has me stating i want to run 20-22psi, to prove i wasnt making that up. And this is the reply i got


Hello James,
The e-mail I sent you regarding the boost capability of the turbo was relating to just that, not relating to adjustment of the actuator. If you required 20-22 psi of boost the requirements to achieve this level would either be fitting an actuator of this static setting or the use of a boost controller. The threaded adjuster on the actuator is for setting the static preload, which is normally 2-4mm, not to alter the boost pressure which most people think it is for! By winding the rod in you are effectively altering the pressure on the spring and the worst case is making the spring coil bound, which does not allow enough rod travel which can lead to over boost and over speed of the turbo. This is what we would attribute the failure of the turbo when analyzing the failure of your unit.



So can anyone shed some light on this, what there saying may well be true? but iv seen people adjust actuators everwhere etc, or are they feeding me some bull?

Even if my actuator wasnt good enough, im still thinking they provided this knwoing i want to run 20psi - so should of told me 'use a bleed valve' or provided me with a actuator for the stated level of boost?

Any input would be helpfull, cheers!

[Tony Walker]

Regardless of the rods adjustment if you havent exceeded the 20psi you said you were going to use it for then the turbo has been nowhere near the speed/pressure you requested.

[Tony Walker]

Have you seen the pressure spike? or does it limit to a particular pressure?

[HAndy]

Regardless of the rods adjustment if you havent exceeded the 20psi you said you were going to use it for then the turbo has been nowhere near the speed/pressure you requested.

bob on

if you have not exceeded 20 psi,and the turbo has overspeeded, then its there cock up for selling you a unit that was not fit for purpose that you requested when the purchase was made, however have you any proof apart from a verbal conversation on the phone, as most will try and wiggle out of it,so to speak, read the warenty that came with the unit, ie the small print how old is the unit?

[Brigsy]

Load of ****, typical turbo place excuses so they dont honour the warranty. If the actualtor would only hold 14lb then thats not exactly mega boost.

Im suprised they didnt push the old oil pressure is low etc thats what they usually say.

I run a -34 actuator with about 15mm preload to see the required 25lb boost. I bet the turbo was just a ****ty rebuild that has give up after some decent boost.

[Nick k]

As above, you told then what you wanted it for, if it can produce 20psi then it should regardless of how you made it do it., mechanical failure due to chocolate interials i suspect. I had a issue with a company call turbo active who were supposed to be garrett approved. After it failed the second time i told then if it happens again i would send it to garrett and get a failure report on it. Funny enough it never failed again!
Stick to your guns mate or they will have you pants down.

[casper]

I had a similar situation,same turbo,same company.When I placed the order I told them I wanted to run 20lb boost with no bleed.The first actuator was fixed,when I rang them and told them what I had ordered, they really didn't want to supply me with an adjustable actuator.In the end they did but it was the same as the first one just adjustable.Will only hold 14/16psi before boost becomes uncontrollable.

[gttjames]

Thanks for the quick replies. As suspected they are trying to wiggle. The turbo is over the 12months warranty, but has done low boost and low miles. Which when i told them i phone i know its past the 12months, they said to send it in anyway as it was low miles.

They asked a few questions originally, do you have a standard feed hose 'nope i have a braided' good they said, and i said before you ask i allways primed the oil feed and do regualr oil and filter changes, and i have a oil pressure gauge in car which i allways keep an eye on and oil pressure is spot on.

Regardless of it failing, like we have all said, i asked for a turbo which i will run at 20-22psi - they provided a unit not fit for purpose.

Yes casper i know about your issues i remmeber reading your thread. Well i havnt named the turbo company yet, hopefully they sort it out properly and keep a good name for themselves. I will try ringing monday (or might be in the new year now) and see what they have to say. Il keep you guys informed of the outcome if anyone is interested.

[gttjames]

bob on

if you have not exceeded 20 psi,and the turbo has overspeeded, then its there cock up for selling you a unit that was not fit for purpose that you requested when the purchase was made, however have you any proof apart from a verbal conversation on the phone, as most will try and wiggle out of it,so to speak, read the warenty that came with the unit, ie the small print how old is the unit?

Well Handy, i have more than a verbal conversation, i have a email stating i want to run 20-22psi, and an email with a reply from them recomending this turbo. So alot better than 'i told you on phone'

[gttjames]

But this has got me abit confussed, is what there saying 'If you required 20-22 psi of boost the requirements to achieve this level would either be fitting an actuator of this static setting or the use of a boost controller. The threaded adjuster on the actuator is for setting the static preload, which is normally 2-4mm, not to alter the boost pressure which most people think it is for! By winding the rod in you are effectively altering the pressure on the spring and the worst case is making the spring coil bound, which does not allow enough rod travel which can lead to over boost and over speed of the turbo.'




got any truth to it? for future reference can i run 20psi on a actuator or should i allways use a blead valve

So yes altering the spring pressure, meaing it wont open unitl higher boost levels? Which is what its for? And surely if mine was overboosting id have known about it, my boost gauge would of showin it running silly boost? But i checked its function with a pressure tester and actuator rod was opening at 14psi - so was clearly working

[Nottswoody]

I have a t25.49 tomcat and run 20psi all day everyday with the -31 actuator wound in.. No probs so far after a year of very hard driving daily.. As mentioned before sounds like there trying to get out of the warranty..

[Ian S]

if you have not exceeded 20 psi

Unless you had a boost leak and it was spinning too fast trying to make pressure it never could.

Or excessive rich fuel which gets into the oil and apparently wear the turbo bearings quite fast.

The need for a stronger spring in the actuator is to stop waste gate creep. More boost may require a stronger spring or it'd be slow to boost as the waste gate will be pushed open by the exhaust pressure.

They are correct that if you wound it in too far the boost won't be controlled and you should see high boost, maybe unless it's a small turbo and your engine is big valve and tall cam with high gas flow, etc.

The correct way to do it is to use an appropriate spring. Harder for higher boost. A larger diameter actuator as well will prevent waste gate creep as the spring pressure is much higher but still opens at 15psi, or whatever, due the larger cross sectional area of the diaphragm. 2 inch area, 15psi = 30 lb of pressure just moves a 30 lb spring. 4 inch area, 15psi = 60 lb of pressure and a 60 lb spring. That holds twice the pressure against the wastegate and prevents or reduces creep.

[gttjames]

I have a t25.49 tomcat and run 20psi all day everyday with the -31 actuator wound in.. No probs so far after a year of very hard driving daily.. As mentioned before sounds like there trying to get out of the warranty..

yes mate think we have established that just trying to learn correct way to run more boost for future

out of interest how do you find the full t25, what is it liek compared to other turbos youv used, i may go this route but when does it spool and full boost by?

[gttjames]

Unless you had a boost leak and it was spinning too fast trying to make pressure it never could.

Or excessive rich fuel which gets into the oil and apparently wear the turbo bearings quite fast.

The need for a stronger spring in the actuator is to stop waste gate creep. More boost may require a stronger spring or it'd be slow to boost as the waste gate will be pushed open by the exhaust pressure.

They are correct that if you wound it in too far the boost won't be controlled and you should see high boost, maybe unless it's a small turbo and your engine is big valve and tall cam with high gas flow, etc.

The correct way to do it is to use an appropriate spring. Harder for higher boost. A larger diameter actuator as well will prevent waste gate creep as the spring pressure is much higher but still opens at 15psi, or whatever, due the larger cross sectional area of the diaphragm. 2 inch area, 15psi = 30 lb of pressure just moves a 30 lb spring. 4 inch area, 15psi = 60 lb of pressure and a 60 lb spring. That holds twice the pressure against the wastegate and prevents or reduces creep.

I have checked for a boost leak, i work at a main dealers so have access to good tools, i went from the trubo to other side of intercooler with a pressure tester, all fine, used vacum/presure tester on all other hoses and vacum hoses, all fine. So am pretty certain no boost leak, most the hosses are new and clips as i did my own front mount.

So like you see, i should of seen high boost which i did not, and also i checked the actuator function with a tester, i could pump it upto 14psi, then a small pump more and i could see it manually move the rod - it was working and openign at 14psi - so no over boosting, and also when on road, my standard oe gauge wouldnt go max at this point and my aftermarket gauge showed 14psi peak, so no signs of overboosting at all from what i can see/have checked.

I then added in a bleed valve and started with it fully wound in, it made no difference like it should, then half a turn until i got more boost, gradual adjustments and got to 18psi and was happy to stay there, did a few runs to get afr readings etc, took it home, leaving it to idle and i disovered the heavy smoke after idling for 30 seconds. Il see what they say next time i speak to them. cheers again guys for the iunput

[Ian S]

Do you have a dump valve? They can leak.

[casper]

The bit I found hard to believe was that they told me they couldn't supply a actuator capable of holding 20psi without boost control.I'm running the actuator right on its limit which is 16psi anymore and boost levels go crazy.Fueling is set up for around 20psi so I'm either going to have to bleed the rest off,which I didn't want to do,or buy an actuator that will hold 20psi.

[Nottswoody]

yes mate think we have established that just trying to learn correct way to run more boost for future

out of interest how do you find the full t25, what is it liek compared to other turbos youv used, i may go this route but when does it spool and full boost by?

Starts at 3000 and full by about 4 to 4500 and keeps pulling the little 1.4 all the way more than quick enough for the road you just have to re learn your distances as things come up a lot sooner when pushing the engine harder to get the boost up as I mentioned 18-20psi is mucho fun Definatley need a cam for more fun though but for everyday city driving its more than enough fun and I haven't been shown up or left behind by any bigger motor yet

[Brizza]

Brilliant turbocharger, would like to get another as a spare good cheap upgrade for the 5

[gttjames]

The bit I found hard to believe was that they told me they couldn't supply a actuator capable of holding 20psi without boost control.I'm running the actuator right on its limit which is 16psi anymore and boost levels go crazy.Fueling is set up for around 20psi so I'm either going to have to bleed the rest off,which I didn't want to do,or buy an actuator that will hold 20psi.

well by the sounds of it they where just trying to persuade you to run less boost?

[gttjames]

Do you have a dump valve? They can leak.

no, for this reason i dont have a dump valve as read about just another place for a boost leak. Also when i bought he turbo i asked if i should run a dv or not and they said it didnt matter either way

[Fordy]

is the company in question turbo technics?

if so I have had similar experiences with them over 2 turbo failures after running the boost pressure stated they could handle...which both seemed to fail due to cheap chocolate internals but they pull the oil contamination, low oil pressure, overspeed lines both times.

They get really pissed off if you ask for the manager and tell them you want the unit back how it was delivered so you can send it away for an independent inspection as you don't believe them, then funny enough they start to play ball with you

[gttjames]

is the company in question turbo technics?

if so I have had similar experiences with them over 2 turbo failures after running the boost pressure stated they could handle...which both seemed to fail due to cheap chocolate internals but they pull the oil contamination, low oil pressure, overspeed lines both times.

They get really pissed off if you ask for the manager and tell them you want the unit back how it was delivered so you can send it away for an independent inspection as you don't believe them, then funny enough they start to play ball with you

yer seems that might be the way i will go, cheers fordy. But no its not turbo technics. Im not sure if there open tomorrow but il give them a call and see what they say if they are open.

[TopCat]

In my experience mate its better to sort problems like these face to face and quick too. Ask for the turbo back and say its going for an independent inspection, and say you will bring the report in to them on completion, and also state that if the component failure is down to faulty goods that you will expect them to pay the costs of the independent inspection. I think it'll save u a lot of time and effort in the long run.

Good luck fella.

[gttjames]

In my experience mate its better to sort problems like these face to face and quick too. Ask for the turbo back and say its going for an independent inspection, and say you will bring the report in to them on completion, and also state that if the component failure is down to faulty goods that you will expect them to pay the costs of the independent inspection. I think it'll save u a lot of time and effort in the long run.

Good luck fella.

thats another good point, trouble is the company is a 3 hour drive away so face to face isnt a option. I will tell them my opinion and if they give me the bird then il ask for the turbo to be sent back as it was delievered to them and like you say above say i am getting a independent inspection etc etc

cheers

[TopCat]

Hopefully they'll be fine, but a mention of trading standards sends a shiver down most managers spines lol. Keep us updated pal.

[Tony Walker]

maybe get them to send some pics of it apart before you tell them your getting it independantly inspected..... they could easily build it back up with some other old spare bearings or something.

[Tony Walker]

are the journals on the shaft screwed? or just the bearings? damaged fins on the wheels?

[gttjames]

Well wasnt sure if thered be open today or not (im working ) so i just tried them, no answer so i think therel be shut til new year so will try then.

Well im not just going to mention trading standards etc straight away - il argue my point as - they didnt supply what we agreed a '20psi turbo' simple as that and the fact the actuator rod only held 14psi means it never exceeded 20psi etc so there issue. Il try and work it out with them.

Got point tony, so far the brief convo we had was 'yer the turbo's not good james' so i will be asking exactly what needs doing/whats broken, and if need be will ask for pics 1st etc, then if still doesnt go anywhere i will be asking for the unit back for a independent inspection and i am prepaired if need be to take it further as i have proof with emails stating i wanted a 20psi turbo which they ahve not provided. Il update thsi thread when i next speak to them.

[Mart]

What's special about 20psi? Genuine question. Does that equate to a given power level you're after?

What spec' is the turbo?

Any reason why the company in question hasn't been named?

[gttjames]

What's special about 20psi? Genuine question. Does that equate to a given power level you're after?

What spec' is the turbo?

Any reason why the company in question hasn't been named?

No reason why I havnt named the company - just thought I wouldn't yet to see if they sorted me out or not. Also if I name the company if anyone has a opinion already then there set like that, whereas if I don't name the company it should give general oponions and not biased.

Nothing special about 20psi, but just around the area I want. (if it happens to fuel and perform well at 19psi il stick there say) but when I got this turbo it was a upgrade over a standard t2. I wasn't keen on the idea of loads of lag and 20psi area is AROUND 200bhp and can pull a 13 1/4 mile - that's what I want. So when they asked what I wanted, I said I aim to run 20psi and want low lag - and this is the turbo they suggested. Im not massive on turbo spec's so went with it.

They sold it as a t25 with a .47 rear housing. I cant remember measurements I took, but it looks like a t25 front, with a standard size wheel going through it with a .47 rear

[Ian S]

20psi area is AROUND 200bhp

That doesn't really follow.

My original T2 with a (possibly) Nissan Silvia compressor wheel in bored T2 housing made 186bhp at 15psi at 8000 revs on a 1.3 litre engine.

Brads 5GTT 1.4 litre engine made 244 at about 18psi (with VNT).

Many 5GTT owners bolt on a load of parts and make 25psi and only perhaps 150bhp.

Boost doesn't equate directly to a power level. The package as a whole, from inlet to tailpipe, is what makes the power.

[gttjames]

That doesn't really follow.

My original T2 with a (possibly) Nissan Silvia compressor wheel in bored T2 housing made 186bhp at 15psi at 8000 revs on a 1.3 litre engine.

Brads 5GTT 1.4 litre engine made 244 at about 18psi (with VNT).

Many 5GTT owners bolt on a load of parts and make 25psi and only perhaps 150bhp.

Boost doesn't equate directly to a power level. The package as a whole, from inlet to tailpipe, is what makes the power.

hence the capitals 'AROUND' - I know you cant just run 20psi and get 200bhp, but it is around the boost level I wanted to run so asked for it, and iv done other mods to get hopefully around 200bhp

but this thread isn't about 'will 20psi be 200bhp'

[HAndy]

if im going to be honest,if you intend to run 20psi or more in the future, a rollerbearing unit will take it a lot better than a journal type, no matter how well its balanced. and after a couple of rebuilds,will work out cheaper too

[markey b]

if im going to be honest,if you intend to run 20psi or more in the future, a rollerbearing unit will take it a lot better than a journal type, no matter how well its balanced. and after a couple of rebuilds,will work out cheaper too

my VNT has done 7 years of hard abuse at 27psi... only now is it smoking like a crack pipe, and back in the day it was my daily, did 10k in the first year of owning it, its only the last couple of years i've had the luxury of alternate transport so its taken a back seat

[gttjames]

if im going to be honest,if you intend to run 20psi or more in the future, a rollerbearing unit will take it a lot better than a journal type, no matter how well its balanced. and after a couple of rebuilds,will work out cheaper too

cheers for the advice - a few years back when i bought his turbo - i was new to turbo's etc and didnt know any better, this is what they suggested.

[gttjames]

finally got a response, this is the message i sent them, not mentionig trading standards or anything yet....




Hi Craig, thanks for reply. I spoke to Oli earlier in the week and he said to contact you and you would be back on wednesday.

Iv got to disagree on adjustment of the actuator - it adjusts the pressure on the spring and which point it opens - and when i set it up i used a vacum/pressure pump to see exactly what was going on. The actuator rod was never took to maximum, and i discovered that even winding further adjustment this actuator could only hold around 14psi i think it was. It was fine then and i could see when testing - pumped up to 13/14psi and it opened. So coil was not bound or jammed. But whatever way you want to look at it, the turbo has never exceeded 20 let alone 22psi so it hasnt been anywhere near the speed/pressure i requested at purchase.

Even after the turbo failed i still did checks on actuator etc and found no problems with its operation. And just to confirm i have a OE boost gauge on dash and a aftermarket unit plumbed in and boost levels never went over. I am now running my standard turbo which was bolted on and no issues now, no boost leak etc, it is running 14psi on standard turbo by actuator adjustment and has run fine, even before your turbo was fitted it ran this boost level for ages like this with it being adjusted via the actuator.


this is the companys reply

Hello James,
I have looked at the turbo again and there is around 20mm of preload on the actuator which is not even remotely correct, this would limit the travel on the actuator and can cause over speed as the valve is not opening correctly, yes there may some minimal travel but the unit cannot work correct in its current state. If you require more boost pressure the only correct methods are via boost controller or a stronger actuator. The adjustment on the rod is not for adjusting boost pressure, it is for preload on the actuator for setting the static pressure which as I said before should be around 3-4mm not 20mm!

[casper]

this is the companys reply

Hello James, I have looked at the turbo again and there is around 20mm of preload on the actuator which is not even remotely correct, this would limit the travel on the actuator and can cause over speed as the valve is not opening correctly, yes there may some minimal travel but the unit cannot work correct in itscurrent state. If you require more boost pressure the only correct methods are via boost controller or a stronger actuator. The adjustment on the rod is not for adjusting boost pressure, it is for preload on the actuator for s
etting the static pressure which as I said before should be around 3-4mm not 20mm!

So going on this the actuator I received off them today should hold 18psi with no bleed and minimum preload.Will let you no.

[Tony Walker]

i think there trying to suggest the turbo oversped because the wastegate couldnt open to stop the turbo creeping at higher rpm but if you havent seen more than 20psi then regardless of actuator control it wasnt up to the specification requested. even if it had no actuator on it at all.... if theres no boost leaks and never been up to 20psi then theres something amiss.

by no actuator i kinda mean wastegate closed solid(which is the opposite but there we go lol)

[HAndy]

yep typical turbo company cop out

i would be asking the question, why was it not supplied with a actuator designed to run 20psi in the first place, youve got a proof of specification requested, i would threaten them with a third party inspection of the faulty unit ,and depending on outcome, maybe a call to trading standards, might get there attention this might have been mentioned already in this thread,but im to tired to scroll through it again

[casper]

Just been for a quick blast after fitting the actuator,5mm preload holds 20psi.They can do it.

[gttjames]

Just been for a quick blast after fitting the actuator,5mm preload holds 20psi.They can do it.

is that the same actuator supplied from them or different??

[gttjames]

yep typical turbo company cop out

i would be asking the question, why was it not supplied with a actuator designed to run 20psi in the first place, youve got a proof of specification requested, i would threaten them with a third party inspection of the faulty unit ,and depending on outcome, maybe a call to trading standards, might get there attention this might have been mentioned already in this thread,but im to tired to scroll through it again

yer i am going to use that as my next step why wasnt it supplied with correct actuator before trading standard spiel - and another turbo company would jsut say its ****ed, we all know its knackered, problem is gettingt hem to admit they should of supplied a stronger turbo or a better actuator

[gttjames]

i think there trying to suggest the turbo oversped because the wastegate couldnt open to stop the turbo creeping at higher rpm but if you havent seen more than 20psi then regardless of actuator control it wasnt up to the specification requested. even if it had no actuator on it at all.... if theres no boost leaks and never been up to 20psi then theres something amiss.

by no actuator i kinda mean wastegate closed solid(which is the opposite but there we go lol)

they dont seem to be agreeing to this tony, iv stated 'regardless of rod position, it never went over stated boost, ever'

[casper]

is that the same actuator supplied from them or different??

This is the 3rd,first one was fixed,2nd would only hold 14psi.This one seems ok.

[gttjames]

right well this is my reply

Hi Craig,

'can cause over speed as the valve is not opening correctly' - it is a max boost 14psi actuator - thats all it can hold! Plug a pressure tester onto the actuator now, pump it up and you will visibly see the rod moving... opening the actuator thus venting the boost pressure. Again going back on your quote, if the 'valve is not opening correctly' i would of seen it spike/overboost on my boost guage, this never happened. At which point has the turbo gone over the 20/22psi boost level it was intended for? As im the only person to own/use it and i have monitered everything - it has never seen more than stated boost, so you talking of actuator adjustment is not relevent. Simple facts are it was bought with intention of running 20 psi, i was told this unit would hold 25psi no problem but ideally rated to 20psi - it has never gone above this regardless of the rods position therefore has not oversped. Again - at which point has it gone over the stated boost? It was not fit for purpose.

Me as a customer spoke to your company regarding a turbo, i told you my needs, 20psi area, you recomended this turbo and boost level - yet you supplied me with a weak actuator, why wasnt it supplied with a actuator able to hold 20psi? Again this is not fit for purpose, i paid my money for a '20psi turbo' - i was not supplied with this.


and this i what i got back today

The turbocharger can over speed without reaching a high boost level, when the waste gate valve doesn’t open fully the continues to try and make boost but cannot achieve the desired level in this case 20 psi. The rod needs to open with the correct travel, it may have been moving but not enough, yes the actuator may be lower than 20Psi, but in general people use a boost controller or bleed valve to achieve a higher boost target. The fact is the turbo was functioning correctly until the actuator was adjusted and then lasted 20 miles tends to speak for itself. If needs be we can quote for repair, we are more than happy to help a little due to the low mileage but bearing in mind the turbo is out of the year old warranty we cannot cover the unit under any sort of warranty. let us know what you would like us to do...

So im at the point - do i give up,. or fight on. I really could do with a reply from adamL or similar to confirm to me there talking crap or if there right. - theres alot more people who know more about turbos than me. If people say there wrong etc then i will now get arsey and go down the route of telling them that 'i am not happy, i want unit back, i will get an independent inspection and provide them with details of what i asked for as a customor, and if they agree with me i will take them to court'

but before i do all that and draft up a good well written email i could do with knowing if im wrong or right.

Also if someone like adaml does get in contact with me, dont worry i wont tarnish your name and say 'adaml form .... told me that your wrong blah blah blah' i wouldnt do that. Just need some proper advice. Cheers for all the help so far

[chris]

Feel sorry for you mate your haveing a nightmare with them i honestly thought that adjusting actuator is the way everyone gains umore boost

[TopCat]

I'd fight tooth and nail to get them to repair it for free- after all it isn't fit for purpose as you've stated.

Another thing to do is find out if any other previous customers have been fobbed off- see what they done for them.

In my opinion its better to go down to the store-if its nearby and speak to the manager face to face and argue your point directly to him. If you arent happy with what they say explain to him that your next move is reporting them to trading standards.

An independent inspection report is deinately the first thing to do and to make sure they aren't muggin you off.

[Tony Walker]

If it wasn't opening enough you would get boost creep as the revs increase the wastegate can't get rid of thegases if it ccan't open enough. This means higher up the rev range the pressure would increase but it's not been over 14psi then the wastegate adjustment is still irrelevant.

[gttjames]

I'd fight tooth and nail to get them to repair it for free- after all it isn't fit for purpose as you've stated.

Another thing to do is find out if any other previous customers have been fobbed off- see what they done for them.

In my opinion its better to go down to the store-if its nearby and speak to the manager face to face and argue your point directly to him. If you arent happy with what they say explain to him that your next move is reporting them to trading standards.

An independent inspection report is deinately the first thing to do and to make sure they aren't muggin you off.

there 3hours from me so no chance of face to face. I dont know weather to carry on being polite and just ask them to rebuild it for 'cheap'

but again i dont trust the turbo now and dont want to pay more money to them and it goes wrong.

Im all up for threatening with legal action etc as it wasnt fit for purpose BUT the big but here is if im correct in what im saying which i think i am

[gttjames]

If it wasn't opening enough you would get boost creep as the revs increase the wastegate can't get rid of thegases if it ccan't open enough. This means higher up the rev range the pressure would increase but it's not been over 14psi then the wastegate adjustment is still irrelevant.

this is it tony, iv clearly said to them the rod was moving, therefore opening and boost gauge would of shown it overboosting, therefore the turbo has not oversped and no overboosting has occured in which case turbo is no good and should be replaced.

and its a actuator that only holds 14psi - thats it, thats all it can hold and then opens, virtually impossible to overboost unless there was a boost leak or the actuator was jammed but neither of these is the case