Decals will go on very soon, just need to finish off the last bits with it up on jacks in the garage. I've decided that I need a new brake master cylinder as I just can't seem to get the brakes to feel good after bleeding them and I also need to alter some custom piping for the bias valve under the car. So once all that is done I'll finish with the decals while it in the air and I can get the body kit off easy. Once the brakes are sorted then I can get it mot'd.
Fitted a new master cylinder this week and bled the brakes again, they feel a bit better but not perfect. I think with new pads all round and new discs on the back and old disc on the front they need a bit of warming up and bedding in which a quick blast round the block is not doing.
Also sorted out my clutch pedal that was sitting high and gas pedal which was sticking as the carb needed a good blast of WD40 around the moving parts. Anyway car is feeling good to drive so i think its mot time
I had a go with the Nodiz digital dash also. took a video that you can see below, temp sensors are not hooked up atm.
https://youtu.be/WBvtEKSB-nU
Last edited by Jeff Ninebar; 20-03-2015 at 22:52.
Exciting times ahead for you now then Jeff.
yeah man can't wait, its been over two years since took it off the road!
2 years is a while but the work you have achieved is cracking
After the amount of work you have done you deserve some smiles from boosting
Enjoyed reading all of that mate. I'm only down the road really in Sanderstead so will keep an eye out for you on the road cos I'm over your way every now and then. Give me a shout if you are south croydon/sanderstead way.
Nice car mate lovely work also
Done a quick engine swap on the other Renault in the family yesterday. Timing belt went and it was easier and cheaper to swap the lump over rather than replace all the broken parts. 6 hours start to finish, with lunch and tea breaks included, not bad
Double car update, got the engine in the clio running, also got a 3M headlight restoration kit, the difference is quite amazing. I'm getting the car sorted out to sell it and get some money back on it rather than scrapping after the timing belt went.
Finally found the reason the brakes on the 5 were not feeling that good, the front passenger caliper had a leaking cylinder rubber seal, so put a new seal kit on it, re-bled and they feel good now. Also gave the plugs and carb a good clean as it was having trouble starting. Also changed the green seals on the carb shaft. Car is running real good now, it was hesitating on initial acceleration before but this seems to have gone now and feels very smooth on the gas peddle. I now feel confident about getting an mot so will get one booked up this week.
I have also started putting the OE decals on, got a couple of sections on so far. While I'm doing the bodywork I might try and sort out the wonky bumpers as well...
Not had much time to work on the car recently as been working away for a couple of weeks, but most things are done on it now anyway. Did get the rest of the drivers side decal on, need to do the passenger side. I've booked an mot for 2nd May hopefully it will pass in time for the May surrey meet.
Jeff looking good, looking forward to seeing this at the surrey meet, hopefully we will have some nice weather that eveOriginally Posted by Jeff Ninebar
Not had much time to work on the car recently as been working away for a couple of weeks, but most things are done on it now anyway. Did get the rest of the drivers side decal on, need to do the passenger side. I've booked an mot for 2nd May hopefully it will pass in time for the May surrey meet.
Passed the MOT with a clean sheet today, back on the road
Must feel good, no excuse not to bring it to the meet now.Passed the MOT with a clean sheet today, back on the road
Feels great to know I can just go drive it now, 2 1/2 years work and well worth it. The mot tester took one look under the car and came out to see me and just said "its basically a brand new car, I barely need to do the test!" Took it to a kwik fit where I know all the staff are into cars, I was in there under the ramp with them all talking about it
Will be at the meet on Wednesday this week in it.
May seems to be a good month to get an MOT!
Car looks beautiful! I know the Kwick Fit in Wallington.
No experiences with that particular branch, but wouldn't trust Kwick Fit to do anything with my car. Take it you must know some of the blokes who work in there. Had some experiences with the branch in South Croydon and lets just say the words illegal, dangerous and dodgy just about covera it. Lovely car-hope to see it on Wed.
Excellent effort Jeff, great to see it on the road.
Don't know anyone there, I drive past there quite a bit and see the same tuned cars there all the time so guessed the staff must be into their cars. I got my Volvo mot'd there and spoke to them and they are good lads so went back with the 5 wheel bearings and hubs and got them to press them in for me. I decided to take the 5 there for the mot as I knew I could hang about and make sure everything was ok with it while they did it.Car looks beautiful! I know the Kwick Fit in Wallington.
No experiences with that particular branch, but wouldn't trust Kwick Fit to do anything with my car. Take it you must know some of the blokes who work in there. Had some experiences with the branch in South Croydon and lets just say the words illegal, dangerous and dodgy just about covera it. Lovely car-hope to see it on Wed.
I wouldn't take the 5 anywhere for anything other than tracking and an mot. And tbh, 90% of garages can't even get tracking right...
Fair play. Just wondered if mabey you knew them down there. The experiences I have had with Kwick Fit in South Croydon and mots have been dodgy to say the least...To the point that I would never use them for anything ever again, but it does depend of course on the people and work culture in each particular branch. Seems like you have found them to be decent in Wallington which is good news. My experiences were nothing to do with my 5 Btw.
The car looks spot on!
Testament right there
Well its nice to have the car back on the road, just been tweaking the suspension this week, lowered the front coilovers and softened the damping. Have fitted both side of the decals now. Next main job is getting the Nodiz mapped on a rolling road. Its running nice and drives and boosts well just needs a proper map to make full power. Other things to do to finish it off are new lights all round, refurb the rear badges, straighten the bumpers and stop the exhaust rattling on the rear beam.
Few pics:
excellent work jeff tbh the pictures do this car no justice, the car in the flesh is far better best get it down the track @ pod matey
Cheers Mick, you're right the Iphone pics don't show off the shiny paint too well. I must get the proper camera out and take some sunny day shots to get the paint to pop, there's plenty of sparkle in there that you cant see.
I've not been over 50mph in it yet, so not sure about a pod run yet
Been a while since I updated, been a busy last couple of weeks, I got married, Amazing day, my wife looked beautiful and I got a ride in an Aston Martin DB5!
Back in R5 land, the sun came out the other day and I tried to get some pictures of my car's sparkly paint.
I also found while driving it when its warm the air filter is sucking in to much hot air from the engine bay so have now moved it behind the inter-cooler and run a cold air feed pipe from the front bumper grille under the sub frame and up to the air filter. Also have one from the grille around the cooler and down onto the filter.
I've booked it in to get the tracking set up on a hunter laser tracker this weekend, ready for the drive up to Pod. Going to try and get it mapped before then as well.
Run a dedicated earth cable for my head unit as I found off the OE loom the earth was leaking a high pitched noise over the speakers when the ignition was turned on. The new earth seems to have fixed the problem and I can now listen to music whilst driving, with the sound deadening around the whole car the 12" sub in the boot is sounding tight and hammers you in the back
Might treat it to a set of new headlights before pod as well..
Awesome.
New headlights will make a huge visual difference, seen that on lots of projects over the years.
The stereo whine/noise might be to do with the fact you ditched the OE ignition, I'm sure it had a suppressor bolted onto the AEI. IIRC it did a 'reasonable' job, so better to have it the way you do now anyway
Fair play to you Jeff
Followed your thread from the beginning and great to see it getting finished (although we all know they are never actually ever finished), looks lovely and is a real credit to you with the attention to detail
Had my tracking set up on the laser tracker the other week, the guys in the garage loved the car and took a load of pictures and put it on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/mcautos.co.uk?fref=ts
Goes in a straight line now
I've done a few little jobs on the car the last week.
Been trying to get the boost set up for about 20psi but having trouble getting the boost valve to work properly. I have a Mumby Developments MBC but no matter where I set it, it was boosting 30 psi. So I got a different one of ebay and it was doing the same. I noticed that both of them have a small hole on the body of the valve that seems to bleed air off. So no matter what you set the valve at it still bleeds of air causing the boost to go higher than you want it. They state they are not bleed valves but this hole seems to make them bleed air! Anyway i have now sealed the hole up and now the boost holds at the psi I want without going super boost. I also drilled out the 2nd stage a bit more and I am getting about 12.1 on wot and it seems to pull real well now. Now I have the boost and fueling sorted I can go and get it mapped.
Took the front bumper off and cut down the bumper blocks and re-positioned the lower fixings so the bumper sits back and lines up with the wheel arches better. Going to do the same to the back bumper as well.
I have oil leaks from the sump and gearbox selector which is massively annoying. I've ordered one of the kits from France to fix the gear box leak as my copy bodge doesn't seem to work very well. The sump needs taking of and sealing with liquid gasket as I stupidly used a cork gasket when I rebuilt the engine.
First long drive coming up this weekend to podmight even get it over 50mph!
Cool mate be good to see you and the car at pod
Won a set of new headlights very cheap on ebay. They needed some plastic cut off the back to make them fit. they still need a bit of tweaking to get them straight but can't complain for £40 delivered
Looks great Jeff
Not much to report on my car recently as it pretty much just works! Few little things I have been tweaking with here and there though and have some more I want to do, still need to get it mapped and thinking about re-trimming the door cards as well.
Fitted the seal kit from TND in France to fix the oil leak around the gear selector and that works a treat no more oil leaking from there.
Took the rear bumper off to try and straighten it out, got it a bit better but the main problem seems to be the lower bumper brackets are too big/long stopping the bumper from being raised up at the back to get it properly straight. Think I'm going to get another pair of brackets and cut a bit out of them then re-weld them back together to see if that solves the problem.
Before:
After:
Couple of pics out and about...pre bumper straightening!
Stunning car
Fantastic work you have put into it.
Do you have any power goals/expectations once mapped?
thank mate, really happy with the way it looks now I'm getting the last bits of the outside straighten up.
I didnt really have any goals in mind when upgrading, mainly just wanted it to go faster and drive better! but i'd like to think it would make 200bhp?
Been a while since I have posted, the 5 has been sat in the garage most of the year, MOT ran out and didn't have time to get it done. Took it for one yesterday but the tester spotted a couple of bits that needed sorting first so have re-booked it for next week. Be interesting to see how many miles I have done since last year. Will post a few pics up next week when its out and about again...
Some bits I have done of the car
1. Cheap headlights I got from CGB on ebay one of the lenses started to come away from the back panel so had to seal it up with some clear silicone. The angle of the headlights was also firing into the sky and needed some serious adjustment to get them pointing at the road.
2. Tightened hand brake cable
3. Set up a switch on the nodiz to hold the revs at 3500 max when full throttle, sort of anti-lag/launch control, more for fun at traffic lights than being useful as its on a toggle switch on the dash and has to be flicked off at the right time!
4. Fitted a new sunroof seal, yet to be tested in the rain...
5. Fitted the door car pockets back on to have somewhere to put my phone and wallet!
6. After seeing two cars on fire in separate incidents on the same day, on the motorway recently I have also mounted a fire extinguisher to the rear roll cage for emergencies.
7. Fitted boot light switch back on after finding it hiding in a box in the garage. Boot now has a light again with a new LED lamp.
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Last edited by Jeff Ninebar; 28-07-2016 at 13:07.
Hi Jeff!
Updated pics please
A year flyes by very quickly these days!! Lovely car though.
hi Jeff hope all is well
having a few issues with the r5gt
at the moment she is not starting but she turns over no spark. she was starting fine the other day but I had this problem before when she was getting a make over.
the issue was there was no signal getting to the aie unit, got power going in the aie unit but nothing come out. I think I might have a broken connection some where. is it possible you can have a look at it Monday.
plz drop me a call if any good 07580014332 Aaron
Sounds Like TDC sensor or wiring to the TDC has failed, you gone back from the sparkies to the coil pack to make sure it has no spark at King lead?
Az, have replied to your message, should be round Monday
The 5 passed its MOT, only thing that was wrong was the handbrake on one side not biting, I tightened it up the night before so not sue what I have done to it!
The CO was well over on the emissions test fortunately the guys at the garage "helped" it pass...need to sort the low revs fueling out as it is running too rich. I have posted in the technical section about it is anyone can help?
1406 miles since last year. The tyres have barely worn in!
Well its been a while since I updated, not much has happened with my car over winter, I have had it out for a drive a few times when the weather has been good. Only bit of work on it was changing the radio aerial for a stubby one.
As it was so sunny on Monday I drove it to work and sitting in traffic on the way home I remembered how high the temperature gauge goes when its warm. I have needed to sort out the air filter and air intake since the re-build as the filter is just sat behind the intercooler in the middle of the engine bay sucking in hot air.
So I have ordered a carbon air box and ducting and I am also going to change the current intercooler to a front mount that will sit behind the holes in the lower part of the bumper. This will free up the space in front of the turbo inlet for the air box and ducting. While the bumper is off I'm going to raise up the oil cooler so it is behind the open grille as it is currently sitting behind the main flat bit of the bumper getting no air flow at all.
I also want to adjust the timing on the vernier pulley to move the power band a bit higher up the rev range and then actually get the car mapped to suit the set up it has. I'm planning on getting these mod's done over the next couple of months ready for the Retro show.
Here are a few recent pictures:
I have started to strip down the front end to get the mod's under way, here are a couple of pics. I have had a 2wd cossie intercooler I was looking at fitting but it needs too much modding to make it fit so have ordered a universal one to try out and work out a custom pipe route once it arrives.
I've made some progress on the air intake and have this set up in place now. Plastic air duct sits nicely behind the front grille and feeds the carbon air box filter via a bit of flexy duct, then a silicone reducing elbow onto the turbo inlet. going to make a bracket to hold the duct in place but it is fairly solid at the moment and looks like it will work quite well and not suck in hot air from the engine bay so much. I have also raised up the oil cooler on long bolts to get it in the air flow from the grill
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It might be better to not obstruct the radiator with the oil cooler as the water cooling might be the more marginal area. Certainly my 5 ran too hot when the rad was a bit blocked up with Bars Leak that someone fitted into the water. I had to get a new rad after that.
You don't want to over cool the oil, 90 or so °C is what Renault seem to have selected. So why fit a big cooler? On a track lapping car, maybe. With standard rad, my oil temp never exceeded 120°C, IIRC, on extended periods of full throttle at the hottest part the the year. And that may have been using 24psi boost. IIRC, it would quickly drop back to 100°C so, then down to 90°C.
Are you planning to block all that open area around the side of the rad, where the air scoop is? Or a lot of the potential cooling air will simply bypass the coolers and go in there instead. I presume you're going to use all the original cowling / ducting that Renault must have felt was necessary to get sufficient air onto the rad? The cup racers used it and would also use squirty foam to block air leaks past it, and also around the original intercooler.
In the photo, that air scoop appears to have a nasty flat area / ridge around the outlet that might cause some restriction with higher air flow, just when you want the lowest restriction. A proper 'trumpet' shaped inlet would probably do better, and also compressing the air as it goes in.
I disagree with the oil cooler blocking the rad causing hotter water temps, mine has never shown signs of overheating with a massive front mount and oil cooler obstructing the rad.
However I do agree with the advice on not needing an oil cooler unless you are absolutely beasting the car around a track for sustained periods.
I recently tested my 5 with 10 row mocal oil cooler with a stat in the plate and I was surprised to see that the car didn't get past 45c after almost one hour of driving, the oil cooler set up was massively over cooling. Admittedly I wasn't hammering the car but having to put the car under load/rpm just to get it up to temp defeats the object. I then removed the oil cooler and ran the oil filter straight to block and my oil temp raised to a much more sensible temperature of 70-75c.
For almost all road going 5's I'd strongly argue an oil cooler is overkill.
I'd never really considered that the separate cooler would be over cooling, I just went for a separate rad and cooler as it provided some heat separation between the two fluid systems. My car gets very warm on boost and in traffic, which I think was mainly due to the air filter being sat in the engine bay, so the new air intake set up is design to stop it sucking in warm air, a round inlet may provide a better air inlet, but I like the shape of the one i have put on as it fills the space in the grille nicely! The front mount should also lower the intake temps on boost and lower overall engine temp.
I guess one it is all installed if the water temps seems to go up still then I could just drop the oil cooler back down out of the air flow, I might just drop it down half way anyway.
The heat in the combustion chambers is where the heat is coming from, radiating from the engine, the manifold and turbine, which during some boost might reach 900°C.
The rad is trying to lose some heat from the engine into the bay, at maybe 90°C, and quite a bit of hot air. In traffic engine bays get hot. My 5 had the standard equipment front air intake and got hot in traffic. That why Renault spent the money on the antipercolation fan and ducting. Whether the intake air is 25°C or 75°C is insignificant to engine and engine bay temp. The air leaving the turbo can reach 250°C, so after a boost the intake air will be quite hot for a while anyway.
When it get to the combustion chambers it turns into 1000°C, or whatever. ± 40°C to that is not going to change the engine or engine bay temperature.
A proper trumpet doesn't have to be round. You can saw the edges off to be any shape you want. The important point is the smooth transition for the air flow compressing into the filter. At reasonable boost and revs the engine might be passing 65 litres per second. Fluid flow dynamics don't like steps and edges as they become restrictions and that costs you power. You will probably have a small vacuum in the air filter box at full boost. I took all that off during an experiment and got a smoother engine, holding back a bit less, and it was different with different air filters and no filter. A further experiment seemed to show a small but noticeable difference between two big cone filter of the same size and apparent flow though the material. The better one had a full width trumpet and the other had a flat end going into a small trumpet. Sounded different too, the full trumpet being a bit louder.
It became popular to have a big cone filter over behind the left headlight and seal off that area with some metal or plastic sheet and sealer. Then you get ambient temp air intake and a big filter giving minimum possible loss at full suction. And a nice big trumpet giving some extra compression pre turbo, which is basically free boost.
Induction feed looks good. Similar to what I am currently making up.
It's is certainly worth blocking the gaps around the intake, to make sure the air only has one place to go.
I have managed to get the intercooler pipework finished off and the bumper back on, I had to chop the molded lower bumper mounts off the back of the bumper and then drill a new fixing hole and make some custom brackets up, other than that it all fitted quite well.
V nice install
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