You certainly aren't slow bud, what you've done in last few weeks takes me around 2 years. Are you on the road again? When's this beast going to be roadworthy then.
You certainly aren't slow bud, what you've done in last few weeks takes me around 2 years
Yeah that plastic is ****e, I had to change the one on my S3 as it fell to bits as well.
Had a free hour this afternoon so cut up the subframe so the vw sump has clearance needs a tad more cutting and its done. Then will strengthen / plate it up. Also cut up the vw d/shafts and the 5 d/shafts looks like I need to use a lathe on one and I need to sleeth the other. Once I finish subframe the mounts will be next and then the d/shaft's.
Last edited by James5; 18-03-2013 at 16:48.
Finally obtained itCheers mr Grier and philr5t and Phil's part's man Lee
In progress of working on engine mount's
Last edited by James5; 03-03-2013 at 21:11.
Dayyyym you don't fock about do you
Enjoying your thread James keep it up mate
Done some more tonight couple of engine mounts to finish off thought would give the neighbours a break from the noise tonight in fact the mrs' s moaned :-(.
Ok coolant pipes on the engine all connected up other than the header tank using the OEM jobbies for now want to get it running before spend the cash on silicone jobbies.
Started on converting the OEM VW loom to Adaptronic E420c to which I will make notes for anyone else wanting to do the covnersion in the future.
Last edited by James5; 18-03-2013 at 16:43.
Looking quality James looking forward to seeing this on the road did that gear box part fit ok ?
Gearbox part fitted perfect mateyOriginally Posted by philr5t
Looks quite catching in pinkyour next post will be to say it's all in and running you work so quick
Looks quite catching in pink
Honest the pink was Mrs's choiceI wish it was in and running been really slack due to flu and being busy at work.
Done
- New Walbro 255 installed,
- New Fuel filter installed,
- Mk4 golf push n click rear fuel lines done,
- Cleaned and painted up rear calipers done,
- Treated and redone some of the welding in the rear,
- Cut large rear section out of rear of 5 (will make a better stiffer bolt in removable item)
- removed GTT gear stick and linkage setup
To do
- Finish the O/S/R engine bracket and gearbox N/S/F bracket,
- Finish off the engine loom just the VW TB TPS and VW Stepper idle motor wires to work out what does what,
- Driveshaft fabrication,
- Golf Mk4 GTi Nylon fuel lines to be installed and secured under car,
- Secure alloy fuel tank,
- Under car coolant lines to be re-done and secured properly,
- Install Golf Gearstick and get cable's extended (anyone with rwd 5 no length to be added?),
- Wire in the Mk4 golf low and High speed fan switch setup,
- Jack up the rear of car another 6"'s so engine can slide in on subframe underneath on the engine crane leg's
- Install engine into rear of 5
- Make exhaust system,
- Do a base map
- Weld new N/S/R upper bumper bracket on
Last edited by James5; 19-03-2013 at 15:07.
Speak to HAndy about gear linkage lengths, he's just fitted a vag box in the back of his 5
that was almost 5 months ago
james got your pm and replied, you will need to measure carefully, dont be affraid to allow a 200mm etc more of cable, than your finished measurement, as it was around £120 per cable i think, plus postage, you could also try steel rods connected to a set of cables in the gear stick /selector box and a set out of the
gearbox end and put the link rods in the centre as a cheaper way of getting it to work, although when i tried this method , i could not get rid of the flex between the joints from cable to rod connections , which kept jamming up the selector movement, might work better for you than it did for me
link http://www.cable-tec.co.uk/
ran my alloy coolant pipes through bulk head and it my cabin area and then out to the rear enginge area, leaving the floor pan underside free for the cables, which face foward and curve around the the passenger side footwell area and into the gear box, i clipped the cables every 600mm to stop them from dragging /catching anything
you might or should i say will need to strengthen the rear wishbones, as they will flex under load and move around which will not help steering, almost killed mededicated rose jointed rods is the way foward, i wouldnt like to chance it with a bolted /welded steering rack
not when pushing 250 bhp + just in case, would also maybe fit a box section steel at the back of subframe as well
Last edited by HAndy; 19-03-2013 at 18:47.
when i was speaking to blocky @last years national day, he showed me his gear selector set up it was different, and i think he used a 21 gear selector box, modified cant be surebut he had issues with it, which is why i stuck with o.e set up.
here is a piccy posted in my project thraed by tutor, showing what i was on about., although this is not blockys car , this has a 21 lump in the backjust a thought
Last edited by HAndy; 19-03-2013 at 18:44.
Not the best pic but I am soaked, knackered and a little achy but engine is in the 5
Last edited by James5; 23-03-2013 at 16:41.
happy times
Well done mate, not long now before its doneget your driving test done also!!
Cracking stuff James looks good in the boot mate where you gonna put the shopping now
Good stuff James. Not much to do now then
In and on all for wheels for now
Last edited by James5; 02-04-2013 at 15:17.
driving tomorrow?
Looking good mate, keep up the good work
whats that water bottle from in the pic mate is it the golf bottle ??????
Yeah it's the crappy mk4 golf bottle needs replacing at somepoint, but for now need is to get running.
....wrapped around a lamp-post the day afterdriving tomorrow?:hehe:
....wrapped around a lamp-post the day after
This isn't going to be your every day car, just a car to drive to and from event's and local meet's.
Awesome stuff bud. Gana be such a weapon! So makes me miss the 5 seeing all this work being done.
That is the nuts James mate.
Looks like its getting there mate! Did you need to chop subframe to make room?
Alot of chopping need on the drivers side and then plating and strengthening.
look forward to seeing this James
Keep the updates coming
hope we get a shotgun ride in this james, this thing aint going to be funny
Judging by where that lumps situated mate I think the only place you can sit is shotgunhope we get a shotgun ride in this james, this thing aint going to be funny
My Clio is currently using a modified VW corrado remote unit. I've battled to get a decent gearchange for a while, and i still have plans to rework it yet.when i was speaking to blocky @last years national day, he showed me his gear selector set up it was different, and i think he used a 21 gear selector box, modified cant be sure
Originally i ordered some longer cables from cabletec also. They returned them having used the original ends from the VW cables i sent them. Bonus i thought.....until i tried to fit and make them work. They routed forward 'as stock' from the stick, curled back round underneath the front subframe and then back round and over the gearbox into the original brackets. ..... Turned out they had far too much slop in them ( i think due to the inner cable 'snaking' up inside ) and even with a slight curve they would start to bind. I spoke to cabletec, and it turns out they have 2 factories, both with different websites and both in different towns. The one i used was at Ellesmere Port. A helpful chap at the Nottingham factory thinks i've been supplied the wrong type of cables. They should be maroon iirc and mine are grey :-( At another £250 to try again i thought i'll try other avenues first.
I considered turning round the remote, but that brings the problem of the reverse gate being in the wrong place along with a world of other things !
Basically i extended the rear of the remote box, and swapped about the cable entry so they entered from the rear.
On the gearbox top i made a new bracket to reverse the entry to the the selector tower. I now needed cables that were a 1/3 of the length. I cut down the ornamental cabletec jobs and modified the ends. Thankfully it worked. Not perfectly, but at least it's useable now. I try to be gentle with it as i'm cautious of it failing.
My plan is to use original length VW cables in this current reversed configuration, they will reach the rear firewall. From that point to the stick i'm hoping rose jointed rods supported on eyelets will do the trick
This is who made my gear selector cables.
http://www.rcscables.com/
They are very good
My Clio is currently using a modified VW corrado remote unit. I've battled to get a decent gearchange for a while, and i still have plans to rework it yet.
Originally i ordered some longer cables from cabletec also. They returned them having used the original ends from the VW cables i sent them. Bonus i thought.....until i tried to fit and make them work. They routed forward 'as stock' from the stick, curled back round underneath the front subframe and then back round and over the gearbox into the original brackets. ..... Turned out they had far too much slop in them ( i think due to the inner cable 'snaking' up inside ) and even with a slight curve they would start to bind. I spoke to cabletec, and it turns out they have 2 factories, both with different websites and both in different towns. The one i used was at Ellesmere Port. A helpful chap at the Nottingham factory thinks i've been supplied the wrong type of cables. They should be maroon iirc and mine are grey :-( At another £250 to try again i thought i'll try other avenues first.
I considered turning round the remote, but that brings the problem of the reverse gate being in the wrong place along with a world of other things !
Basically i extended the rear of the remote box, and swapped about the cable entry so they entered from the rear.
On the gearbox top i made a new bracket to reverse the entry to the the selector tower. I now needed cables that were a 1/3 of the length. I cut down the ornamental cabletec jobs and modified the ends. Thankfully it worked. Not perfectly, but at least it's useable now. I try to be gentle with it as i'm cautious of it failing.
My plan is to use original length VW cables in this current reversed configuration, they will reach the rear firewall. From that point to the stick i'm hoping rose jointed rods supported on eyelets will do the trick
just to confirm mine are the "maroon type "and have worked perfectly ,even with the curves in the cable etc, and were from the nottingham branch
Interesting. So buying some 'correct ones' may save me alot of dicking around..... How long are your cables m8 ??just to confirm mine are the "maroon type "and have worked perfectly ,even with the curves in the cable etc, and were from the nottingham branch
now your asking ??????? i cant remember , but 3128mm rings a bell
thats with a foward facing selector system also , i will have to dig out the reciept from the folders of paper work, will get bact to you tomorrow evening on that one
Cheers for all the very useful info guys will look into that over the next few weeks.
Project seems to be 1 step forward and 2 steps back at the moment in that I am re-doing bit's I previosuly sorted for the b18ft and now having to change all for the VW setup hope the conversion is worth it at the end.
My car is a vw in a 5 shell
Last edited by James5; 02-04-2013 at 16:41. Reason: Typo
Cheers for all the very useful info guys will look into that over the next few weeks.
Project seems to be 1 step forward and 2 steps back at the moment in that I am re-doing bit's I previosuly sorted for the b18ft and now having to change all for the VW setup hope the conversion is worth it at the end.
My car is a vw in a 5 shell
your not fitting the 5 spd box are you? go 6 speed 02m if you can ,rwd and traction =more grip
your not fitting the 5 spd box are you? go 6 speed 02m if you can ,rwd and traction =more grip
Not going already fitted the 5 speed box o2m will have to be future upgrade
you will hate the super slow snychro of the 5 speed
and not much better strength wise than the jc5 box
Mines holding up OK
and not much better strength wise than the jc5 box
Very small update started exhaust, plan is 3.5" out of turbo then 3.5" all the way through with a 3.5" Simons small silencer (I currently have a 2.5" Simons Silencer would like to use this but not got space to use 2 x reducers) and finish up with a 3.5" scorpion tailpipe (always liked the scorpion tailpipe).
I just hope all the changes I am doing is not runing what Scoff and Haz done originally. Like to think I am giving it what it needed
Last edited by James5; 24-04-2013 at 15:41.
Fits in there beaut mate
Any ideas when it'll be up and running?
Planning on a RR session?
Just ask cause really interested on what sort of power it would produce
Looking good mate keep at it atleast I now get to keep on at you to finish your project
Who washed it?
Looking good matey
Your flying with this
Looks some much cleaner/nicer then mine!
lovely mate, really it looks awesome!
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