Hi all, I am looking for some help/advice with turbo'ing the williams F7R I have just bought. My plan is to put it in my 19 16v cabriolet to be different and hopefully get it on the road for next summer, so in the meantime I could do with some help and ideas with getting things started.
First of all I am just looking for a fairly reliable set up possibly 200-250bhp, I would like more but for the time scale/money I don't think it will be possible.
So a few questions/my plan.
This week I am going to strip the F7R stripped and checked. I will need to order main bearings, big ends, oil pump, gaskets, seals, head bolts, rings etc... if someone can point me in the right direction for all this it would be appreciated.
-oil pumps are expensive,i gather youve done the feeler gauge check, if well within clearance leave it,dont shim it either
head bolts can be bought through the club shop if there is any left, or arp bolt set for the f4r will fit with spacers(high tensile)
I am going to keep the standard pistons and get them skimmed to lower the compression. I already have a brand new water pump and timing belt kit sitting ready to go.
- should be fine for that level of power, but if you want more in the future, forged rods and pistons will be needed
Once turbo'd will standard cams be ok or do I need cams and pullies for the conversion to be successful? Do I need the bores to ne honed? And do I need everything balanced at the bottom end?
-standard cams will be fine, and will work fine on standard marks, although a set of vernieers will give better results, if the engine is a high miler then a rebore maybe needed, get it to a enginners and get the bore measured, and go from there.
I also have a set of 21 turbo injectors spare at the moment and a map sensor I understand these will be of some use.
- 230-250 bhp will prob need somewhere around 450cc injectors, i gather the map sensor is 2 bar, if so that will get you to 14 psi but no more , which should see you at 250- 270bhp with above set up.
Turbo... My mate has a good standard S14 200sx T28 he said I can have.- need to measure the turbine /compressor and post the sizes, but should do what your after.
Exhaust manifold? What types are there out there? Are they top or bottom mount? Downpipe?
- the cast log is fine for this amount of power, and is a robust and cost effective choice( engine dynamics sell them or k tec might still have a few,but a little more pricey) down pipe will need to be fabricated, as there is no of the shelf item out there,2 1/2 bore is more than enough, just keep the bends as long(bigger radius) as posibble
you can only run actuator on this set up also
Where do I take my oil/water feed from for the turbo?
- you need to take the oil feed from the back of the block (cam belt side)there is a sensor already in place there, and the return pipe from the turbo needs to go back into the sump or the back of the block again, should be a small roundish cast area that can be drilled and taped(did mine back into the alloy sump was easier
Do i need an uprated fuel pump? i.e. walbro 255? - yes get a decent pump walbro or bosch item
Is my standard F7P box up to it? What clutch will be best.
- this really does come down to the condition of the internals, there have been some very high powered f7 and c1j's that have ran on standard ish boxes, but your best bet is a jc5 box from the willams (stupid money)172 or if you can live with longer gearing, try a kangoo, or r19/clio diesel box, but you may need to alter speedo pick sensor ,depending which one you go with.
Engine management? Do I just remove my F7P ecu and engine loom from the main loom and start fresh with standalone, will an omex ecu and loom work to get it up and running?
- electrics and handy dont mix well
, but stanalone is the way foward and will be a good investment if you are keeping the car long term,and intend to modify further later on.
Anything I have missed?
a decent intercooler will help, as will a nice sized radiator, and a 235x 16 row oil cooler, ditch the ****e twin stage throttle body and ****e tps (stick a single plate type of the lagunna etc 50mm-70mm dia, or go after market, which will allow you to fit 99% of non oe tps, cheaper and easier to get hold of than the renault items
try and reduce under bonnet temps as much as possible will also help keep everything working nicely
Thanks for taking your time to read over this and any advice is appreciated
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Originally Posted by BILLY-R5GTT
