Injection ftw!
Injection ftw!
Itll be worth it in a few years when petrols £2/3/4/5 a litre.Originally Posted by TNT ANDY
Lol - I've just asked Ross if he has a spare carb.
And for the record I've never expressed an opinion that EFI is superior to carb. The ignition side is without question, but fueling wise, you only have to look at a few motors on here to see some well set up carbs. I chose efi as it seemed like a logical step forward and it was and still is a challenge.
So stick your sarcasm up your alyhole
Hmmn, carb freeze, poor ecconomy, float bowl emptying, hot starting problems, sticking pump jets .................................Hmmm, Injectors? ECU? Wiring/pins???? Oh yeah, EFi all the way...
(Sorry but LOL)
....... Worn throttle shafts, missing mixture screws, split diaphragms, corroded water ways.Hmmn, carb freeze, poor ecconomy, float bowl emptying, hot starting problems, sticking pump jets .................................
Your not selling it to me.
Need more reasons.
Blocking idle jets, inferior throttle response, improper fueling at different boost levels, restricted performance, manual choke. I think thats about it ? I can't think of any more
Hopefully andy hasn't damaged anything, but if he has I'm sure it's repairable.
Ok Scoff , lots of reasons why efi is better however none of them relate to the " talent" that is Andy " you bring it I'll wreck it" Stott who if not every single person on here knows already is an electrician who seemingly always has electrical faultshehehe you knows I loves ya stottttoooooooooo
Ok Scoff , lots of reasons why efi is better however none of them relate to the " talent" that is Andy " you bring it I'll wreck it" Stott who if not every single person on here knows already is an electrician who seemingly always has electrical faults
Getting nowhere fast here - it's running on 2 cylinders and getting on my tits.
Arghhh.
Sure you havn't fouled a couple plugs with all this richness ?
I'll answer the string of PM's in a bit when I finish work mate.
LOL - no, I've had the plugs out and cleaned them up a fair few times now, it's always 2 & 3 which is giving me the gyp. HmmmmSure you havn't fouled a couple plugs with all this richness ?
I'll answer the string of PM's in a bit when I finish work mate.
BTW - I watched this
http://www.nzonscreen.com/title/brit...visionary-1993
I'm inspired again.
I just lack the knowledge LOL.
Oh and ability.
Is it still running rich? Have you swapped the plugs about?
Hi Dave - yes I gave them a swap around to see if that made a difference - no such luck. However, last night I realised that I had been trying to start Fluffy using the 36-1 patters as per Scoffs trigger wheel, but I have changed the trigger wheel to a flywheel based item with 60-1 without changing the settings in the ECU
I'm not very good at all this and feel totally lost atm, it makes sense that is was rich as the ecu would count the missing tooth then start the ignition process and I don't know what it does when it got to 36 and then no missing tooth, I suspect it went back round to the beggining of the table again, or even just stopped firing and waited for the missing tooth to come around again, I suspect the later. which again makes sense that the if the firing order is 1-4-3-2 that within the first 180 degrees only 1 and 4 would fire, it runs pretty poorly at about 2k but struggles below that and it make no difference if I remove plugs 2 or 3 whilst it is running.
Can't get back on this till Thursday so I'll have to wait for info from both Miller and Scoff to see if I have my facts right.
Firing order is 1,3,4,2 andy.
I think that wheel will be 60-2 if you've halved the double renix style tooth.
Eurika - Big thanks to Scoff again
we got there in the end.
Time to get the wheels on and get some easy miles on her.
Then mapping.
Can anyone recommend which engine oil to go in now?
well done bet thats a reliefEurika - Big thanks to Scoff again
we got there in the end.
Time to get the wheels on and get some easy miles on her.
Then mapping.
You aint kidding, when somethings wrong with the Fluff - it's always user error.
Good feeling when you get it right, and it teaches you a bit more also - with a little help from your friends, and that's why I went down the Scoff route - can't praise him enough.
how hard is it to go to efi mate?
Not too, bad so long as you're not a bafoon like me. There's enough people on here now to help you through.
lol trouble is i am a heavy handed bafoon i was offerd an efi manifold with injectors and throttle postion sensor dont know what to do
Run it in with cheap mineral 10/40 then when ran in swap for 10/60 fully synth.
Cheers Brigsy
So you got the engine running then decided to put oil in it???
You are finally understanding Andy hahahaSo you got the engine running then decided to put oil in it???
Oi - this is TNT Andy - Not Ipswich you fools - pack it in LOL.
Oi I've never started an engine with no oil in it, split an oil line at 120mph and dropped the lot but never started without it
Oi I've never started an engine with no oil in it, split an oil line at 120mph and dropped the lot but never started without it
Good to hear she's up and running again Andy
FFS - I've not started the car with no oil in itI was wondering what spec to go for once run in.
Ooow touchy lolFFS - I've not started the car with no oil in it
To answer your question I use to run 10/60 mobil 1.
But you really should of put some oil in before you started it..
Lol
Sorry Andy but I gotta agree, starting with no oil was a bad ideaBut you really should of put some oil in before you started it..
To answer your question I use to run 10/60 mobil 1.
But you really should of put some oil in before you started it..
Got some 10-40 mineral in atm and a lovely 5L of mobil 1 on standby.
Report - Just been out and done 30 miles, no issues apart from fueling - I'll fiddle with this and get back out there. Feels great to be back behind inside Fluffy.
Glad fluffy is feeling better.
Haha - Cheers Casper me owd fruitGlad fluffy is feeling better.
OK - quick update, just got back from a 120 mile round trip (I'll text and check before setting off next time, grrrrr) , felt a bit sluggish and struggled up hills. I suspect this is because I have had a few changes since it was mapped last, so I advanced the ignition a wee bit and found it livened up great. kept off boost though to be safe.
Bad points - on the original ignition timing, under load the ecu would cut out, possibly due to electrical 'noise / interference' I'll need to clarify what is what before the long trip to Scoffs.
Also my water pump has sprung a f*****g leak, so I'll change that also before the trip back up north.
Almost there now.
Update
A mixed day really, on positive we got a map on her and she ran (yes I said that right) absolutely fantastic on my brief outing.
However a few things plaguing -
1 - Raceland Manifold is going in the bin - it was glowing up like it was going to melt @ 15psi, it's cracked despite having 2 good braces on it and it kept setting fire to my wrap (fangita
2 - we didn't spot we had thrown the belt after a run and therefore got the water temps upto 118 deg C which I suspect has blown the head gasket as I drove the entire 250 miles on 2, possibly 3 pistons back to Sunny fooking Norfolk. To top it off my headlights packed up as leaving me no option but to blind every fooker coming the other way or have just my side lights on. The good people of England flashed me either way despite me having my Hazards on.
Back to the drawing board again FFS.
That said, I do have a good map on it now - just need to repair the bits from above .
For the record .......
IF YOU HAVE A RACELAND MANIFOLD THROW IT IN THE BIN OR SHOVE IT UP YOUR ARSE, THEY ARE NOT WORTH THE BOTHER
Maybe you shouldn't wrap them?
30 or so other buyers with no(?) complaints.
I heard of standard manifolds that were wrapped and bent and leaked.
Unless it's not weldable, then it'll sell quite easily?
Wow I feel sorry for you chap. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Although the way you explained the story did make me chuckle...
my raceland manifold was cracked after no more than 150-200 miles, i didnt wrap mine but also it wasnt braced, i had it repaired by my mate and sold it on for what i paid for it.
i personally didnt think there was any gains the only thing it seemed to do was make the exhaust note crap and lose the burble
sorry to hear the news Andy
i guess thats why you where so quiet yesterday
I had that once, ended up taking off my white t-shirt, tearing it in half and sticking it over the lights to dim them down a bit....
LOL - it was a bit chilly for that last night, although that would have been funny to doI had that once, ended up taking off my white t-shirt, tearing it in half and sticking it over the lights to dim them down a bit....
Yeh - it's never easy to text everyone that's interested Andy, and when you're 250 miles from home, you don't want to spend half hour texting ****e news LOL. but like I say, it was not all bad. Won't take long to sort it out and get back on the road. I'll only be running 18 psi for the time being until I can get back to Scoff.sorry to hear the news Andy
i guess thats why you where so quiet yesterday
Wow I feel sorry for you chap. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Although the way you explained the story did make me chuckle...
Yeh, I was trying to take out any bottle neck that may exist in my set - up, but tbh, for 200 - 230 bhp, I think it's possibly my turbo now and I won't be changing that any time soon, so the manifold can go. It was quite shocking how easily it glowed up.
It will look good on my garage wall though to go along with the other bit's n bobs I'm breaking and collecting.
Right - onwards and upwards as they say
1st thing to do - compression check - I assume that there will be a breach between 2 cylinders and I'll need to put a new gasket in there. with the car overheating would it be best to have the head checked for straightness? Can I do this myself? or is it best left to an engineer?
Here we go again
Poor fluffy.Get well soon.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
