Guys I have a set of apex shocks and 50mm springs do I need spring clamps or could I get away with not using them? Any ideas as I'd like to get these done and on tomorrow..
Guys I have a set of apex shocks and 50mm springs do I need spring clamps or could I get away with not using them? Any ideas as I'd like to get these done and on tomorrow..
Clamps, unless you are brave
Mind you I've changed springs with a vice and a trolley jack before ...
The ones I have on now are Lowerd already but standard shocks.. Iv bought new tops and rubbers or will the springs still take me head off?
You don't need any spring clamps to change them beleive it or not. I have Koni shocks and the same Apex/KTR 50mm springs and there's no compression on them at all once you jack the car up/take the strut off.
I would not normally recommend doing this, it's just that I have the same springs on my car!
Remove the strut if spring can move without any effort then it's fine to do. Compress spring by hand if not and see if you can move it. More effort you put into compressing it by hand the more it will spring up. So up to you really what you feel like doing
can wind the retaining nut up to the top as well to give an extra inch or so for slack. if the spring still feels solid in the strut at that point, compressors required ideally
Ok so done the fronts today 50mm apex drop no spring compressor needed just static icky placed ball bag on the top and locate the nut quick I'm really thinking of dropping the back myself now with help off here with the pic diagrams it really can't be that hard? Any advice? I really don't want to mess with taking the kit off thoe is there a proven way without taking the kit off? Cheers
Screw a bolt with a nut on, into torsion bar through a big socket 28mm something like that then wind the nut in to pull bar out. Measuring is just a case of seeing how high it sits atm then measure with no load on and if you want to drop it an inch jack the disc up an inch higher than it was with no load on.
I wish it was that easy bloody bolt snapped aghhhhh didn't even budge it lol good news is my sills are sweet with the kit off
You need to liberally soak the bars inner joints with PlusGas. And the outer too. Spray the stuff on and leave it for a day. Then spray on again and leave it for a while again.
If even that doesn't free it then you need to use a big hammer and hit the bars through from one side. I've not done it this way but loads of people have.
Do as Ian advices plenty of lube is required soak it for a few days before attempting on regular basis keep soaking the outer innners
Use a head bolt tight in the threaded part of the bar also use a small socket that is smaller than the torsion bar and a nut to keep it in place and smack the headbolt with a sledge hammer a few times (be careful not to hit the car) you are basicallt then pushing the torsion bars out one side
What a plank!!! I think I know why it's been snapping nuts.. I have been trying to tighten the nut half way down the thread next to the socket and not the nut at the end of the thread!!! Doh it's bound to snap!! What a dick!! Try again tomorrow see if it works the other way.. The prob is I only come on here on my phone so the pics are tiny.. Doh!!
Yes mate been putting it on every hr.. Iv just been and got some more longer threaded bolts see if I can pull them again.. They have moved a little but only a couple of mm
Well that's a start and means they are no longer seized.
In one article it suggest moving them side to side until they are free enough to move all the way.
Side to side? You do one then the other?
Ha ha Iv had enough the torsion bars won't budge at all.. Snapped four bolts now smacked the hell out of them.. The only other thing is heat I guess tried the other side and that's just as bad. Good news is that both sills are minter than a minted mint..
Use a slide hammer it will get them out easy enough
I wish I had a slide hammer just basics is what I have didn't think it would take so much and so long.
I made my own with a sledge hammer head, threded rod a few nuts and old sockets.
Screw the rod in place sledge hammer head on rod, slide a socket on big enough for the sledge head to stop against, then wind the nut on afterwards the required distance of pull needed.
Worked for me
i can tell ya from experience mate i tried with finch to do a valver radius arm, we used the biggest slide hammer from my mate garage and heated red it still didnt come out, we also used a bottle jack wedged against car with a metal rod to try and push from opposite end in the middle of car this also didnt work, we beleive his was put on the wrong spline when lowered b4 it never came out just to let ya know boss
Oh, you mean they didn't have the splines aligned but hammered it in anyway.
Been out with the daughter all day today so still haven't freed up this torsion bar this 5s not leaving my garage to its done.. So Iv baught some 500mm m10 today as I'm going to try and make a slam hammer type thing.. What's the best way to do this? Limited tools and no welder.. Talk to me
Well thanks again to r5turboron and my neighbour we finally got the torsion bars out with alot of heat a Hugh iron bar and alot of hammer.. Heater the centres up and the drivers side came out the got a huge. Iron bar out slides it through and knocked the otherside out as it was sized tight greesed them back up and set the hight and now she sits pretty.. 50mm on the front and around 40 on the back as I have 16s on.. Just been out and no catching but will have to see when I have peeps in the back.. Gos that was a bitch but finnally I think that's me ready for blyton!! Just a couple of things left now
Make fogs work
Bumper strip for the back
Happy days
Cheers again to all the advice and help!!
Anti roll bar bushes next I think.. Polly or oe?