Nope last 10months has been 4...Originally Posted by Big Steve - Raider
20 In 10 Months more-like!
Nope last 10months has been 4...20 In 10 Months more-like!
thanks i can say i get loads of attention in this and it realy stands out against the standard look, im kind of the same thinking as you i just wanted somthing different but didnt want to stray to far from standard colour, features and engine. my engine is around 12000 miles old and still going strongNew poster! (less than 10 posts)
soapymech, yellow spec, think thats the spec of the spare engine. thats pretty old school aint it??? and by the way, fat arches, love iti have hand on heart no regrets
I think you should keep it and come to some meets. You seem a sound bloke with a minted car. Stay in the club dude
Guess what your saying is diffrent strokes for diffrent folkes lol should take it to national day it is old school looking i would love to see it up close it aint my thing but it aint my car lol i am doing mine oe on outside but not cos i am following its just the way i roll lol
I saw you put this up for sale ages ago. its a shame you will struggle to sell with all the body kit. If it was standard bodykit you would probably sell it in 5seconds :/
Gl mate
Its the spoiler that makes it look over the top. Try looking at it again and imagine the spoiler wasnt there. it looks pretty tidy, certainly better than mine
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I've actually got a cosworth spoiler for it that'll go straight on, dont know if you've seen them, little bit bigger than standard but then has a smaller version of the whale tail that sits half way down the rear window. Think i mentioned before thats going with it too.
Cosworth spoiler? Which one? They are very heavy.
basically a miniture whale tail but designed the 5 turb, sits low at the back of the car, not big at all, think it came part of the tarmac kit
Not sure that will add anything.
The problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.
I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would most likely be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.
Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.
Welcome to the RTOC.
Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?
im not sure who makes it but are you talking about a 3 piece spoiler...like the old rs 500??
The problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.
I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.
Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.
Welcome to the RTOC.
Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?
Sorry but I couldn't agree more. Strip it for bits and hope for 2k at best or try your luck on eBay with a 99p start and see what it goes for.
Have you got any timing slips for it at all? I'm honestly not trying to be harsh but I'm afraid you don't come accross as being that knowledgable with regard to Renault 5s. Neither am I really but I've had my fair share of them over the last 13 years and have the cracked liners to prove how well over 30psi suits an engine.
Genuinely i wish you good luck with it but please wake up and smell the coffee and adjust your pricing. I really can't imagine who'd pay a grand for cooling (sic) and a grand for an exhaust.
As I said best of luck
Ross
couldnt agree more reallyThe problem you've got here Jonny is that you're a new kid and are talking to older combat hardened troops many of whom have clocked up a lot of race track laps or / and 1/4 miles passes or /and years at 7500rpm on B roads and know the score with engines and most everything else to do with making a 5GTT fast and driving it fast.
I think you've not yet had a fast 5. My 5 with it's nearly standard but correctly tweaked engine and 24psi would be making more power and torque than whatever you think yours is. I barely spent anything to get there and many of the people here are the same as mine.
Your sales spiel and claims do not impress us at all and only serve to illustrate your lack of experience, how little you know about 5's and how far you've yet to travel to catch us up.
Welcome to the RTOC.
Or, are you just wanting to sell the car and move on?
as for the spoiler i think ive seen those floating about, think its a prima racing jobbie
not been funny but i've been stripping down and building 5's for around 9/10 years now, just cos i've never bothered joining a club means nothing!!!!!
yeah you can get the same power but look at things like reponse, lag, running time, over revving, all little things which when you put them all together make that difference. More cooling means longer you can run it at full bore without the head giving way, then you look at over heating in the cylinders and melting a piston. over revving causing you to bend a valve or spin a shell on your bottom end. Just timy little things you dont think of but when it happens you wish you'd taken that step before hand to stop it!!!!!!!
Which is why being with a club like this is not nothing
All that stuff in your post are merely the simple basics that many people here all know
Many of us chose a bigger turbo, higher boost and the consequence of more lag. It's worse around the suburbs and great on the open road and lanes.
Over revving is a nonsence statement. The limit with C1J appears to be lack of oil delivery and consequent ovalising of the camshaft bearings at 9000 plus revs. Also the rods come off too often.
Charge cooling or water cooling? We know all about both of those. I manufactured thermocouples specially to give us fast enough charge temperature response times. People have been fitting low temp stats since the year dot. And the copper cored rads that leak, etc. Some people even drill a new channel and pipe work to get coolant behind chamber no. 4 as that suffers the most from piston expansion and consequent bore scoring. I had my bores honed out but a few thou to avoid this. Pressurised the crank case a bit above 18psi but that's the lesser evil.
Melting piston crowns!! Who does that? Well Scoff did a bit but the C1J's he works on are making 450bhp or so now. His 2 litre is making 700 or so.
You didn't mention det'ing, the main problem with turning up the boost. Did you know about that issue? Do you have an AFR gauge plumbed in? Know your charge temps? How much advance do you use? Do you adjust the timing sensor? Swap the wires? Use water injection? The water gave some people 3 extra psi before det'ing? Did your better charge cooling mean you could get another psi or two?
Carbs mods; the list is long. Some people would do dozens runs on a rolling road, small adjustment between each run.
If you look at the bottom of this article you'll see what we feel is pretty much the definitive list: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=22002
i agree with stuff you've said, i've read manual after manual on 5's and tried and tested, for example even removing the thermostat after using a low temp, bigger cooling fans. generally bigger turbo's do mean more lag hence returning to standard compression pistons and skimming the head more to create higher compression. But then too much compression then leads to other problems. I understand you guys have all been in the business for years hence why i'm taking on board most of your comments but just cos i've signed up doesn;t mean i dont know a thing or two about the car.
And yeah i know about detonation, not setting up correctly when running, too strong or too weak a mix. when it comes to setting up like i've said in earlier posts i'm not a mechanic so i get other people to sort that out but when it comes to components then my old man used to work on a team that used to do hill climbing so when it comes to little idea's that improve the running and performance i've had a lot of imput from that. Magazine after magazine. like i said manual after manual, i've thought about water injecting the cylinders which i believe scoobi's actually come with as standard now on some models. again water cooling onto the intercooler to change air pressure. even as far as CO2 but to be wuite honest the car does what i want and it has taken just about everything thrown at it. The only other step i took was strengthen the internals and then never run it after that.
Last edited by Jonnykane; 04-07-2012 at 14:39.
With communities like this club there is a sharing of knowledge. You've tried to go it alone and have found some things for yourself. Now you're here you can share in the collective and short cut to whatever end result you're looking for.
Just read the bottom of that thread and basically thats just standard stuff which i can promise you i tick all the boxes there and i'm sure most you guys was thinking i hope so anyway lol
but thats the thing, i've had the result i'm after and not looking to improve anymore, its up for sale for a reason, family commitments meaning baby on the way and cant see the mrs wanting me to take the new born up the road in it. Plus I'd have to fork out on a new baby bucket!!!!!!!!!
Which manual told you to do that? (removing the 'stat).
It's mentioned in one of the basic 'cup manuals' found online a couple of years ago.
I think it was translated from a French site.
Someone fecked up the translation then
They must have fecked up the translation in the MR 276 coupe version of the cup manual too, it's mentioned in there too.Someone fecked up the translation then
One thing I like about this club is the support from a great wealth of people from all walks of life including young and old. As Ian has stated, many people have lots of years trying different things on a gt turbo to gain that little bit more power, better handling or go crazy.
You have to remember that these cars are 20+ years old and some have spent a lot of money on so called bolt on goodies that give 50+bhp or an abortion of a body kit that will give more downforce and grip to find out that if they had just asked a question or spoke to someone first they could of been £1000s better off instead of learning the hard way. I also took the bait back in 99 with my first 5 after paying money for a so called engine build by a previous tuning company for it to fail only a few months later. On strip down we found that all that had been changed was gaskets and bearings! Not what I had paid for.
I would hate to see this club going the same way as so many others, fair enough some people think they know everything and some actually do but do we need to take the p**s when some guy posts an ad that other laugh at.
I would say, take the information and advice that people give with a thanks and instead of what you think you know, you might even learn something. If you doubt the advice even ask the question again. Most magazines from the 1990's were full of polished bolt ons and unrealistic power outputs from someone that spent silly money with a so called tuning company to get a mug shot in fast car etc
Anyway good luck with the sale of your car and the birth of your child.
cheers Lee
Personally, I'd keep it.
Sorn it, pop it away under cover, get some more standard looking exterior and get it up to a less lairy look.
Then, when 'little 'un is old enough, take it to shows, drag meets etc and love it again!!
Thing is you will probably get rid of it either whole or in parts, then hanker after another later on after having a nose around or driving one.
But then agin thats me talking.....and I have tons of renault ****e stacked and stored all over the country
Can I just say guys (following Lee's comment), over the years i've looked at so many things yes i've been fascinated by the shiny engine bay but big power has been what i've looked at. yeah engine dressing is nice but when it comes down to the internals everything is legit. we've had the engine in bits and checked as the first engine i got (as Lee said) wasn't what it said on the tin. This possibly why i've spent so much, gone the whole hog for summat that performs well (and it does) and some of you guys might be surprised if i start bringing it along to meets, and for something that looked the part in the right era. I'm not a beginner on the modding/tuning seen. But i've never once done it for a feature, i've only ever done it for myself. I take all comments on board cos i'm not daft, you guys know your stuff and like me have a passion in the car so do your homework.
Thanks guys
Effort. If you Put as much into your kiddo as the car no doubt you'll be a good dad
I know, I have a copy. What I meant, is that it isn't wise advice, but guessing you know that anyway...They must have fecked up the translation in the MR 276 coupe version of the cup manual too, it's mentioned in there too.
Cheers Josh
it doesn't actually matter about the thermostat. all that does is hold the water in the head till its up to temp, take it out and you get longer warm up but better flow as the waters heating, smoother and all round better for the engine. rather than the water get up to temp and then the thermostat opening to letting the water through and then cold water entering the head again. you 'll find you get better flow too by taking it out, what does matter is having a low temp fan switch and a more powerful fan to cool it as your running!!!
Last edited by Jonnykane; 05-07-2012 at 10:53.
Ok.
I dont know who told you that but its a load of bs mate.
I'm sure it says in the Haynes it essential for the 5 to run correct temps..
Hahahahahahahahaha
your the best.........
LOL
There are three items in parallel in the cooling circuit. Main Rad, Heater Matrix, Turbo. The water pressure and flow is somewhat balanced between them.
You might reduce the water flow through the heater matrix and turbo. Then over heating the oil in the turbo and damaging it (the oil) which then can set rock hard in the turbo oil ways and damage the turbo bearings and shaft.
Also in the winter for road use without the stat in the pipe it may never warm up. The oil may be too cold, too thick and not lubricate the engine which then would be damaged.
And the rapid warm up might be important if you want to drive off straight away as your oil will stay too thick and not lube properly; see above.
I think from what you've explained any buyer on here would be wise to strip your engine and turbo check for damage.
This hole is getting deeper.....
i think he needs a new shovel
All these years I thought the thermostat was a temperature regulation device, how wrong was I, I'm going to take them out of all my cars now so I can go flat out all the time
A hotter engine will have closer tolerances due to all the metal expanding.
I don't know it but I expect at some level engine manufacturers allow for this in the design, expecting the gaps to bit a little wide until the designed temp has been reached.
That Renault have the oil going through the side of main rad means it's going to stabilise at about 90°C. The oil thickness will be known for that temp and allowed for in the complete design of the oil pump, pressure settings, flow from it and through the engine parts.
So even if you ran a thinner oil, having carefully looked at the data for viscosity change and, for the lower engine temp you've chosen, matched it's viscosity to what the original would have been at 90°C, you've still got wider engine tolerances to have to allow for.
You might get lucky though, with the original oil, it will be thicker at the lower temp and 'fill' the gaps a bit more. But manufacturers need long term reliability so I would expect have to know that they're doing and use maths to put the engine together rather than here-say and guesstimation. 5GTT Cup racers may only need reliability for an hour then they can take the engine apart for an inspection.
Christ!!! Just read through this ad! Since when can a guy not just advertise his car for what he thinks its worth and either sell it or have to have a rethink if he gets no interest. Instead of being slated!!!! for his views, and telling him he has not got a clue etc. A bit harsh! The club goes on about wanting new members, but how do we expect to get them if they join and all we do is give them S***. Id be asking for my money back... Weather he has paid his membership to sell or to continue to being a member, does it really matter( he has paid his membership!)
My opinion keep your views to yourselves unless asked and let people get on with selling cars!!
Rant over!
Good luck with the sale Jonny.
I think quite a few people here have tried to be helpful.
We all know that just because someone spent £30k+ on their 5gtt over a period of years does not make it worth more than a few thousand. Trying to ask for several times that will always provoke a rebuttal from the 5GTT 'intelligentsia', even if it a polite one. To some extent they are protecting other members from being duped by false claims, even if the claims were not deliberately intended to mislead.
You must be aware that over the last 20 years there's been not stop nonsense from 'tuners' and their gullible clients using terms such as 'big boost'. It then and now generates rather irritated retorts. Doubly so from those once gullible victims who now know better.
Loving this thread
yeah the stat is for that but if your monitoring it in a number of places you dont need it. Thats all i'm getting at, so come on guys what temp are you running your engine at i'll tell you now exactly what temp mine runs at and thats 76c and when its had a thrashing then it goes up to around 84c, water from the turbo runs a little higher but not massively, and thats it. and that was using the stat and after taking it out, after giving it some i've noticed it cools faster. Thats just what i've noticed, at the end of the day i'm not telling you all to do it, if you want to try it thats fine. still have that stat and if it seemed like it needed it i would have put it back, in the winter its never run so that answers that statement too!!!!!
If you'd explained this kind of thing at the beginning it would have helped
After 15 minutes running my sump oil temp would stabilise at 90°C according to the Mocal oil temp gauge. Water at about that too. Over a 10 mile ragging the oil temp would reach about 112°C in the summer, IIRC. Water temp would stay about 90°C according to the OE gauge. With the low temp switch for the rad fan that water went to about 80°C or so. On a run, the rad keeps the water temp down, the fan only coming on at lower speed.
[QUOTE=Ian S;279022]If you'd explained this kind of thing at the beginning it would have helped
After 15 minutes running my sump oil temp would stabilise at 90°C according to the Mocal oil temp gauge. Water at about that too. Over a 10 mile ragging the oil temp would reach about 112°C in the summer, IIRC. Water temp would stay about 90°C according to the OE gauge. With the low temp switch for the rad fan that water went to about 80°C or so. On a run, the rad keeps the water temp down, the fan only coming on at lower spee
as i've said before i take everything you guys say on board but likewise i've tried and tested stuff and just saying my findings too and if it works why not use it, i'm not giving anyone **** for what they're saying, i'm not saying there wrong and i'm right and thats what you should do, cos some of the things i have tried haven't worked. like i was told earier rather than finding things out for my self i should have maybe come on here before which is fair enough, as for the comments on price, thats 35k on parts and labour. 2 engines your looking around 6-8k alone if you was to buy them from a tuning firm and thats without bolt ons. i if you read it i've not once said thats what I think its worth, i've used quotes from the insurance companies saying if it was to be replicated it would cost around 20k to do, i've said over 35k in receipts, all your proving to everyone else is that you cant actually read!!!!!!!
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