Top darts great write up my old friend
Top darts great write up my old friend
I would look into new set of tyres mate, i noticed a huge difference when i got my newer ones few years ago (they were still used but newer the my old MT's)
That was the plan mark, just not keen on the price new, at the moment I just can't justify it for once/twice a year, I have been on the look out for a while for a decent set second hand but nothing came up, apart from the ones I have now.
Last edited by GTphil; 16-06-2012 at 10:19.
Now it was time to sit back and ponder on my next move, 5 days after the rtoc pod day my mrs woke me at 5:30 am to inform me that her waters had broke
24 HRS later I was a very tired but proud day of two baby girls
Although I love being a dad one thing I found out very quickly was how little time I now had to indulge in my hobbies.
So aside from around 100 miles or so of b-road fun the only trip I managed out the rest of the summer was down to the pod to watch the backyard lads and mark in the outlaw shootout, had a good deal of fun on both the journy there and home in the raider. Their were a few points durin the day were I wished I had brought my stuff so I could have done a few runs
Whist there I ended up having a chat to Rick, a guy from manchester who used to own gibbos old electric blue O.E GTT, he mentioned he had a frontmount that he wanted rid of, so we exchanged numbers and a week or so later I purchased it off himfor a decent price, it came with a load of pipework and also he threw in a campus bottom pully and altbelt
I have no idea if the cooler is off a sepcific car or is a universal jobby, but it was certainly going to do a better job compared to my K-tec double cap cooler. i had a job fitting it into place, as you can see I have had to remove more or less all of the crossmember and a good chunk of the headlight panel
The picture above is just as I was trial fitting it and the brakets/pipework.
The pipe work that came with the cooler was way to thick and the silicone was also red, so I sold that on e-bay and purchased some new pipework more suited size wise to the engine bay
The pipe run I decided on was blatently copied from djinuk's front mount set up
I liked the way it fitted behind the bumper and grill and i could still keep the fogs in the front bumper
Note the intersting and rather pikey use of a bucket handle chopped in half
Just have a few ajustments to make to the pipework around the alternator/plenum as I can't seem to get rid of the kink in the plenum silicone joint.
I have also given the car a full service and insured it for another year, I have also purchased a set of jacking points off Mike so all thats left to do is get my mate to fit the new jacking points for me (really need to learn how to weld) get it MOT'D and chuck 6 months tax on it and it will be back on the black stuff.
I have a few other jobs I want to do also before the RTOC pod day#
Raise the torsion bar an inch or so
Change the fuel lines front to back (looking a bit orange)
Fully underseal it
Spray the front bumper/grill as I have ended up making a few cuts for the cooler and pipework.
And thats it!
Still the main thing is I have managed to keep hold of the raider, the last thing I wanted was to have to sell it with the words "new baby twins force sale!!"
That is one sexy massive front mount. I want one!
That's a big ********** cooler
lol...sometimes ive caught as much next to my car in bivvy as on the bankOriginally Posted by allanr5gtt
terry hearne bedchairs....an the trusty old bivvy
First of all I raised the rear torsion bar up a few inches as it was so low that when the coilovers were lowered to match it was more or less undrivable so I took the coilovers up to a height that was ok to use on the road then ajusted the rear to suit, the bars practically glided out as the last time I played with them they were cleaned and well greased
I also needed to change a few brake lines at the back I made them my self and used my mates flaring tool, fitted them then when i was bleeding the brake the rear bias valve literally shat it's self and just pissed brake fluid outthis is the only part of the braking system that hadn't been replaced
The price of them new is to be honest a joke but I just had to bite the bullet and flex the plastic and buy one, fitting wasn't excatly something i would like to do again as the bolts holding the valve to the braket were all rotten, I ended up smacking a 10mm socket onto them and thankfully they started to move, then mole grips and a bit of heat dit the rest
I just need to set up the rear brake bias now, one of my calipers was also sticking on so i have free'd it off and now my plan is just ajust it up untill the rear brakes lock under braking then just back it off slowly untill they don't when i jump on the pedal, i might be able to sweet talk mr MOT man into using his brake tester thingy to get them bang on, we will see.
Next thing that needed to be sorted were my rotten jacking points, from the welding i have had done in the past i should have known how much more rust there is other than what you could see. I can't weld myself so i have had to pay a mate to do the work, and all i can say is he has needed to do an awefull lot more welding than planned
This was the drivers side jacking point once the jacking point had been removed, you can also see that the rot had gone down the inner sill a few feet and also the drivers side floorpan was a mess
so part of the inner sill had to be replaced, a 3" wide 12" long section of the drivers side floor pan, also up into the drivers side wheel arch, as well as the actual jacking point itself.
Inner sill replaced and zinc 182'd
Outer sill patch that we had to remove to get to the inner replaced, still needed taking back and painting up in the picture.
My mate spent more or less the whole day just sorting out the sill and floorpan so he had something to actually weld the jacking point to
So today he's on with taking back all the weld's and zinc priming then actually fitting the new renault jacking points, so hopefully next week it should be ready to go for an MOT and it will finally be on the road
To be honest I have been getting a bit miffed off with the amount I have spent on it and I haven't even driven the thing more than 500 meters, also the other half isn't very happy with the amount of time I have been spending on it either
Good work going on there, looking forward to seeing this going up the strip.
Just literally come back in from the garage, all the welding is done and I now have new solid jacking points, I have zinc primed all the fresh metal then gave it a few coats of POR 15 chassis coat, the por goes over the top of the zinc really well! Goes off solid as a rock!
Got all my interior back in gave everything a good check over all the lights and stuff. Everything seems tickty boo and I even managed to clean the interior/glass the lot, looks quite tidy in there now.
Sorted a few loose ends in the engine bay, just waiting on some splash guard clips to arrive and it's mot time on Thursday
Good work phil
Well the 5 now has 12 months mot and 6 months tax on it, it's even clean!
Gave it a run out last night, had a few mishaps, the first one was definatly a lucky escape
The fuel outlet from my fpr is a different size to the fuel inlet on the carb, so in my infinite wisdom I chucked some insulation tape round the tail on the carb so the fuel hose would grip it,
It's been fine for 2k odd miles then last night the worst happened, it came off and spat fuel all over the turbo and exhaust manifold!!
However I was lucky as the engine was cold so the fuel didn't ignite, it smoked a bit but didn't ignite........Someone was most definatly looking over the five for sure. I think I fire exstinguisher is definatly my next purchase
Also my carb started playing funny ****ers also and just in an instant went mega rich, so still got a few issues to iorn out before pod. The new cooler seemed to perform well, my carb top was posativly frozen on the way home. Managed about 100 miles or so. Was just good to be back on the black stuff.
Also had a play with a Ferrari Enzonever seen one in the flesh before, he gave us a few little blips and showed us how epicly quick they are, I was like a Cheshire cat!
Yo Phil if you've still got your old regulator kicking about you can unscrew one of the fittings from it and screw that into the carb so your 8mm pipe fits properly.
The fuel outlet from my fpr is a different size to the fuel inlet on the carb, so in my infinite wisdom I chucked some insulation tape round the tail on the carb so the fuel hose would grip it,
Use the fitting out the old reg on carb top
Sold both my old regs that I had
You should be able to buy what you need to solve this from the likes of pirtek who do a load of fitments like this - well barbed
DG
My bro is a compressor engineer so he should be able to get me one. I should have done it in the first place really, lesson learned
I think ive got one, ill have a look tomorrow and if its there you can have it foc mate
Cheers Brigsy
What is it with all these beautiful Raider's on Williams wheels..... Giving me the HORN!?
Looks fabulous mate!!
Pictures polish turds! It's a bit rough in the flesh, probably three different shades of 449 and the screen surround is shocking
If I wasn't spending all my dosh on the engine then maybe I would be able to afford some paint, needs a full hit really.
Still it looks ok, from at least 20 meters
Cheers for the compliment anyways
Its looking good. I swear I used to see this car parked up in Leyton, East London! Is it the same car? As I remember the Nocturnal sticker across the windscreen.
I put that nocturnal developments sticker on probably 6 years ago, the car hasn't been near London since I have owned it (8 years) so unless the cheeky old French slags been having a few secret nights out I doubt it.
I know those nocturnal stickers made their way onto a fair few cars over the years.
cracking read, will follow closely, good work.
Well, 7 days to go before pod, I'm really looking forward to it, going to be camping on the Saturday, and having a buchers round some dubs.
Touch wood
I must have finally got rid of the old nocturnal developments last minuit Charlie syndrome
I have even managed to clean and polish it
Hopefully with a well prepared track a few more psi and my new front mount, if it stays in one piece, that 12 second target might be on the cards
I'm just hoping the weathers ok and we get a few more rtoc runners on the day.
Good job mate, can't see why a 12 wouldn't be on the cards lets hope its a good one!
Well, looks like the project still isn't finished
Didn't manage a 12 At the pod day yesterday.
I ran another 13.2 But with only 104Mph terminal speedlast year I was closer to 107, but I had a smaller cooler and boost pipe run, so my thinking is I have lost a few Psi over the new cooler.
My fisher price actuator won't allow me to run any more boost, I was just about at 22psi at the top of fourth gear, in first/second/third it was more like 19/20psi
On a posative note i managed a 1.88 60ft.
I really need 110mph over the line, so my plans are a -34 actuator for starters then a solid 25psi should see me up around that power level.
Curse of the 13's
Little bit of an overdue update,
Scoffs rolling road day was a good eye opener as I was slightly disappointed with the 209hp and 192ft/lbs that it peaked at, the graph shows the power actually starts to tail off after 6.5k rpm, I suspect this had a lot to do with the fact I'm still using the standard down pipe, also I must mention the above power was with 24psi and afr's of 11.6 so maybe a little more boost would see a good rise in power as the afr's lean a little.
Here's a pic of the old dog on the rollers
Other than actually enjoy using it for the first time in a long time I haven't really touched under the bonnet, apart from a few boost hose issues it's been fine, taken plenty of abuse and still seems to idle uber quetly for a c1j hardly any tappet noise and it still starts on the button with no choke even after a longish lay up
So my plans are a larger downpipe, measure and find out the exact turbo specs, then run a few more lb boost and see where that gets me, would love to do a comparison run on the rollers with the only change being the downpipe just to see if it makes much difference. Fundage is a huge issue at the moment, working part time and spending on the five just doesn't go hand in hand!
I need to get Christmas out of the way then I will crack on in the new year with achieving that 12 second goal on an uber tight budget
Phil - that's pretty much exactly how mine behaved on the rollers, that was on 95 ron though.
Get a bigger down pipe on that should make a difference, depending on your turbo spec of course.
Good work.
[quote=TNT ANDY;300799]Phil - that's pretty much exactly how mine behaved on the rollers, that was on 95 ron though.
Get a bigger down pipe on that should make a difference, depending on your turbo spec of course.
Good work.[/quote
Did you get to the bottom of why it wasn't making the power you expected? I know you had the issue with the cam/followers but was anything else at all suspect?
Long overdue update
Now that work has finally picked up and I have some more wonga in my pocket (shhhhhh don't tell the mrs
Following on from this thread
https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=30148
and my expectedly low power figures I have got my mitts on a gorgeous bms downpipe and plan to fit this weekend along with measure (or try to) and find out the exact specs of my T28.
Question is can anybody tell me exactly what and how I should be measuring with regards the wheel/trim sizes on the blower?
Wow what an awesome project, kind of inspires me to go all out on mine but I should maybe stick to my original plan
Anyway look forward to some updates and you getting that 12 second 1/4
Well, it's been a long weekend, pulled the car out of the garage, washed it taxed it fitted the bms downpipe, took it for a spin and it appeared more lively, so today i went to see scoff to do some power runs like for like to see if the bms had made a difference, and low and behold it did with exactly the same boost as before it made 215hp 202ft/lbs at 24 psi compared to the 201hp 190ft/lb's it made with the standard downpipe.
So it was quite clear that the low compression was costing power as i wanted 230hp, so we advanced the ignition by 4 degree, and knocked to boost back down to 22psi it was instantly better, made 210ft/lb's at only 5k then blew a boost hose, no det at all, then turned to boost up to 23psi and had another go.
Then got a strange missfire followed by a clattering top end
Gutted to be fair as it was looking like if we could have got the boost back upto 24lb with 4 degrees of advance it would have made some good numbers and 12 seconds would have been on the cards for definate.
I'm now sat in the back of an AA truck on my way home, the joys!!!
Maybe, depends on exactly what's gone on once i get it apart, if it is a piston failure then the other three could also be at risk, the pistons were from cgb they weren't taribusi they were some random Turkish brand. So if i decide to change them then yes i will more than likely raise the compression.
Hate the feeling of doubting somethings integrity. wish id used renault valves instead of my usual suppliers but i didnt think about it till it made the power it did and i regularly rev it to 7k.
Bad luck there phil feel for you bud gutted..
Proper bad luck mate! Get some old standard comp pistons whacked in..
Interesting about the power difference with the bms downpipe, i felt that my van gained a fair bit of power when i fitted my big jim all in one jobby, the elbow must be pretty restrictive at that power level?? i noticed spool time was also miles better.
Just out of interest guys would a comp ratio of 7:5:1 on a t28/285 piper cam and allt the right other bits and bobs safely make 230bhp? what is the best big boost comp ratio?
Brigsy, that's exactly what scoff said regards the pistons
Right now i really wished i had worked out my compression ratio, however the difference 4degree pf advance made was hugely evident, it made 10ft/lbs more and around 12 hp with 2psi less boost than before. You definitely need good knock detection when playing with timing not something i would recommend unless you 100% know what your doing.
[QUOTE=GTphil;300897]Hi Phil - sorry, missed this some time ago, and the answer is simple.
I have totally rebuilt my engine now and put it back together and am making no more power, it seems that my turbo is maxed out, Looks like I need get me a bigger blower.
I'm sorry to hear about this phill.
Very interesting the effect the extra ignition had on your car.
Guess you've got to decided now do you pay extra for forged pistons or go for good quality oe pistons and use the diffence for some mappable ignition.
Feel for you fella
I think the fact that it's a low comp motor gives me some extra room to play with the ignition timing, so if i was to keep the motor low comp then maybe i could benefit from having mappable ignition, if i were to raise the compression i wouldn't have as much scope for advancing the ignition and mappable ignition might not be worth it.
When all said and done 4 degrees of advance at circa 22psi+ is quite a lot, hence why i saw the results i did.
I really need to pull it apart and find out for sure what's gone on. Would love some forged pistons and steel liners but budget is an issue, i may well be able to afford them over time but the other concern is if i invest in forge pistons and something lets me down and i melt one or something then that would be a tough pill to swallow.
I'm hoping it's a gudgeon pin issue as that may well be down to the fitting and would give me a little more confidence in the other pistons, i actually have three spare dished pistons and some bran new liners so a straight swap wouldn't cost me so much to do.
Either way it's all speculation until it's apart!
your low comp pistons still pressed in to the rod and piston floating?
I think with low comp or normal comp mappable ignition timing still has massive benefits along with some added safety.
I dont really get the whole low comp thing? i mean you make more power with higher compression.
Plus its allready a pretty low compression engine. Are there any compression figures out there for big power turbo cars? What compression do the civic people run? Whats Glenn running?
I Think either the gudgeon pin has come out and is hitting the liner, or some of the ringland has given up the ghost, standard pistons are known to not like much more than 24psi, been upwards of 25 once or twice but didn't make any more power with the low comp and standard downpipe.
The comp ratio was definitely where i went wrong when building the lump. So really i should sort it while it's all apart.
How long have you owned your raider.? Im sure ive seen its around blsckburn when i was younger.... kinda got me into 5s.
I'm in my 9th year, but I'm not from Blackburn, I'm from Oldham, been using it in an around Blackburn for around 2 years 3 years ago, if that makes any sense
Currently living in Nelson
Here's a few pictures of last weekends efforts for any one who is interested
Have to say the BMS downpipe is a work of art, fitted my k-tec exhaust like a glove
Gave the old girls a good wash
This is how the weekend finished off at Scoffs
And this is how it sits now, workspace cleared and ready to go, just got to get stuck in and find out whats broke
Also for anyone who was wondering how you work out the trim of a turbo
I couldn't work out mine as i need to invest in a set of calipers to measure properly.
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