Even with a dead acutuator you would still make some boost. If the actuator still feels difficult to pull it will be ok..Originally Posted by Nottswoody
Even with a dead acutuator you would still make some boost. If the actuator still feels difficult to pull it will be ok..
define some boost? it dosnt feel sluggish but it certainly isnt registering it tries then the noise then little boost gone.
You will at least make 5psi unless you have a massive hole in a boost hose, hole in intercooler etc.
So Iv now noticed when I rev it the main water hose is sucking its self flat wtf? Just going to check the actuator then re strip the carb as it sounds drivers side now.. Something sounds like an air noise then suddenly collapses the noise that is all while driving fine as a 1.4.. This 5s got me baffled
thats normal for standard water hose. quite a common thread on here lol
So Iv now noticed when I rev it the main water hose is sucking its self flat wtf? Just going to check the actuator then re strip the carb as it sounds drivers side now.. Something sounds like an air noise then suddenly collapses the noise that is all while driving fine as a 1.4.. This 5s got me baffled
Sucking flat will be normal when the engine is not upto the top hose stat opening temp so will be closed and no coolant will be going through the top hose as yet, alot of the later model's had coilies in the top hose to stop them squishing down.
Air noise???
When the turbo should come in it sounds like sucking like an owl not a whistle the collapses
Air intake pipe collapsing? Try without air filter.
Iv rebuilt the carb AGAIN today and still no boost I took the intercooller off and stuck my head in and saw the turbine spinning when I revved it and still no boost. Checked the actuator with a pump and it went up and stayed up so I'm guessing that's fine? Could it be the exhaust valves need resetting as its been running a week since the HG was done.. I'm baffled the turbines have no damage at all blades are perfect.. I baffled prob me being para but I'm sure my breaks have gone weak too lol.. It dose have a noise something makes a noise then quickly falls away and I Definatley sounds drivers side.. Would the fuel regulator cause loss of boost? Trouble is I can't see under the bonnet while driving as I'm not that good..
Next thing I'm going todo even though I put a new one on when the head was off is replace the manifold gasket then if it Dosnt work then.. I'm burning it
One way valve on inlet manifold to brake servo. Really clutching at straws without seeing car!! Could be valve stuck open or pipe split. Does the pedal to hard when you rev it up?
It's just soft really jay..
Can you feel air blowing out anywhere at the back of the engine when you rev it up?
I no this sounds stupid as but when I was a nooob with a t25 I put the one way valve in the actuator pipe. That then made boost once but not again. As the pressure wasnt releasing. Just a thought.
at this point guys nothing sounds stupid.. whats the thing on the back of the exchust inlet? could that be leeking and thats whats loosing boost? it really sounds like a leak but i can only hear it when driving i would say im getting prob 2-3 psi the gauge barley moves.. all ideas welcome!!!!
at this point guys nothing sounds stupid.. whats the thing on the back of the exchust inlet? could that be leeking and thats whats loosing boost? it really sounds like a leak but i can only hear it when driving i would say im getting prob 2-3 psi the gauge barley moves.. all ideas welcome!!!!
You mean on the inlet manifold? you have the one way valve for the servo and the one way valve that goes into the breather system, the little one above those is for the AEI line.
If your only getting a few psi of boost it does sound like you have a boost leak matey, check all connection on your boost pipe's also make sure there are no splits in pipe's also check the carb lobster for any split's.
Thanks for the reply mate but Iv changed all boost hoses and 6mm pipes completely and the lobster off another car.. Iv stripped the dash boost hoses it's strange Iv checked everything I can think of stripped everything four times in three days now and it always sounds the same I'm missing something but I don't know what else holds boost? Only other thing I can think is take the inlet manifold off again. But there is no leak when revving looking in the bonnet only when driving Iv took a video of the noise but I can't upload it... It's driving me crazy
Ill say it again the turbo is probably at fault..try another unit
call it denial at £580 it had better not be ****ed...
Here is the news
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duKDy...e_gdata_player
So midland turbo want £180 for standard rebuild and no refund.. Today's turning out just sweet.. Anyone want to buy a campus? Cos that's all it's good for at the minute..major
When you pressurized the actuator what pressure did the arm move at?
Well I don't know I'm afraid I did it with my cycle pump for my road bike the standon type not the little hand ones.. It went up and stayed up untill the pipe blew off the actuator.. I donr have a car pump as such what should I do it upto?? The arm came all the way up if that means anything? It's a -31 I thought they were good? I will see if my next door has one.. It's hard to keep the pipe on as the valve is tiny
What you want to do is see at what pressure the arm starts to move, if its very low then sounds like either actuator needs adjusting or its knackered and not able to hold the wastegate penny closed
Also check its actually holding the wastegate penny under tension too
Cheers bud I didn't know it needed to be shut.. Proves I know nothing it starts to move at around 5psi the moves out all the way to 40 then holds at 35.. Is that ok?
If its moving at 5psi then it sounds like its not holding very well, how much tension is the actuator arm under? Do you have to move it alot to fit it over the arm on the turbine housing?
About 6 mm
Ok cool, maybe try add little bit more tension see if its makes a difference. Shorten it another 1cm and see what it does, if no difference then pressure test it again and see if it opens again at the same pressure
Muck me mate I had to call on the powers of grey skull to get that back overit now moves at 20psi??
Take it for a spin see if you have boost, remember if you have boost back off if the carbs not set for that pressureMuck me mate I had to call on the powers of grey skull to get that back over
Well matey I got on the dash 3 notches up but it's still making that noise but it Definatley sounds from drivers side.. Would the fuel regulator do this? I'm at a loss it sounds like very tight trapped air not a whistle a horrible noise not metallic it raises then suddenly collapses its strange as I say we have changed all the boost ones with completely different ones
Check the vacumn pipe from the carb top to the fpr isn't split
Well matey I got on the dash 3 notches up but it's still making that noise but it Definatley sounds from drivers side.. Would the fuel regulator do this? I'm at a loss it sounds like very tight trapped air not a whistle a horrible noise not metallic it raises then suddenly collapses its strange as I say we have changed all the boost ones with completely different ones Uu
The one off the lobster?
Thats the one mate
What would happen if I put the pump on all the pipes to get the psi? Is there like any none return valves I could break? Me blowing down them isnt working..
No need to pressureize the pipe going down the the fpr, just check there are no splits or cracks in it
So Iv been on it all day pressurised all pipes even did the potato in the exchaust trick and its Definatley not leaking any were no manifolds no pipes they all check out. So it looks like its Definatley the turbo not bad it only lasted 500 miles bag of **** there's £580 il never see again.. So Iv been watching on you tube how to take them apart Dosnt look that difficult anyone ever done one? Or should I just save and make this the most expensive turbo ever?? Gutted..I should of been so far ahead with this five if it hadn't of had a washer dropped in it and a ****e turbo.. I thought I was doing the right things obviously not.. Thanks mark and everyone for your help.. The mrs may leave me but I will get the 5 right!!!
Where did you get the turbo from? Don’t take it apart just yet, you might have a warranty with it!
so what killed the turbo? surly it should last longer than it has? will they not rebuild it?
Long story short through blunty his mates had an accident and now no warranty. As stated thanks to all the guys that have helped.. Sorry just a little bit pissed off at the min..
sorry havnt read the whole thread but you may get away with changing one wheel and a housing and saving the core bearings and the other wheel etc...
It all looks physically fine it just Dosnt boost the only thing I notice is the housing with the filter on rotates a little I only noticed that cos I lent on it.. And I'm pretty sure it's not ment todo that..
are you sure the housings are tight to the core and youre not letting a leak through there?
I really hate saying this but... get a T2 from eBay, should be around £200 and hope its decent. Put it on and dont run boost over 12psi (some would say more but defeats the object). This gets you on the road and loving your 5 agian.
P.S. I'll have a KTR 180 at the end of the month but i'm pretty sure your not going to wait that long
The housing moves filter side but how would it tighten I only see a curclip
Front housing can spin on circlip back housing are bolted tight do that's ok
Is the comp housing not bolted to the back plate then the back plate clipped in place? If not don't worry it won't be that then.
If the turbo has gone i would look into seeing why its gone, turbo's don't normally just die for now reason
If there is a genuine fault with the turbo then the builder should supply some sort of warrenty but 99% of the time a turbo dies because of something else
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