as titled.....I have finally got my engine back together after changing piston rings. Problem is that it turns over great with good oil pressure when cranking but refuses to start.
It occasionaly has a pop from the carb top and im sure i seen a flame
I only removed the dizzy cap when disasembling
fuel is getting to the carb.
Im getting spark.
cleaned dizzy cap/HT leads and all look good
what else can I check?
Either the leads are on wrong or you have accidentally damaged the over boost switch wiring
is the dizzy 180 degree out.. or are the plugs in teh wrong order.
I have a 90deg dizzy so can only go on one way.
im pretty sure i put the leads on correct as I numbered them
its rather annoying, most likley a 2 second fix
overboost switch wiring??
cam 180deg out.
Originally Posted by Sparkie
I did not touch the cam/distributer gear/timing chain. only removed pistons, liners
trust us, flames popping out the carb means your timing is 180 out, swap the leads round and try it, don't cost ya nothing to try it does it
flames out the top!!
how do I move it 180deg, do I keep them in the same order and just shift them round 2 spaces clockwise?
My monies on the leads being on wrong, the last two times I have put my engine back together I have done exactly the same and Sat scraching my head for ages, backfiring from the carb is the giveaway.
Look at the distributor from the top, swap each lead to the opposite side, so north goes to south, south goes to north, east to west and west to east, if you get my drift. That'll fix the 180° problem, if that's what it is.
Failing that, try some fresh plugs incase you've soaked or fouled them. Also check the TDC wiring isn't dodgy and plugs to the AEI.
Thanks for the tips with the leads, but now I have tried so many different combinations
the sequence that managed to get it running but it still has the odd pop out top of carb is 1-4-2-3 (4 being piston@ flywheel)...how does that sound?
Noticed one wire on tdc lead was showing so rejoined with some solder - so thats ruled out
hi m8 there are only 2 firing orders 1243 or 1342 i would say you have the wrong order
No 1 is the fly wheel end not no 4. Easiest way to sort it is get it to tdc, take the cap off and see where the rotor arm is pointing.. Now you no where No1 it's easy
1,3,4,2 clockwise as you look at the top of the distributor ! 1 will either be toward the front of the car or toward the cylinder head depending on how your dizzy drive is fitted.
Well ive had enough of the 5 for tonight so I will have to fanny about with it again tomorrow.
take some pictures an make some notes next time to help once you start with the rebuild.
Thanks for all the input.
I removed the dizzy cap and seen that the part which contacts the rotor arm was damaged.
So Got some new plugs and dizzy today.......and it fired up!!
Once it got up to temp there was a bit of steam coming out the bay. I thought it was from the inlet manifold plugs but it looked to be coming from under exhaust manifold.....
Checked the oil and found this...
FECK !!!!!! Seems I have blown my first headgasket.... Idling in the car park - amateur
Check your carb water pipes have not split mate as when i had steam coming from the bay and from the rear it was one of them.
Mine was worse than that after my rebuild
Most c1j's seem to do this after being put back together.
Three weeks after mine was like that i was doing 106mph terminals at the pod
The steam/smoke could also be the fact the exhaust manifild is burning off all the oily hand prints on it that itrs gained as you been handling it. Worth double checking all water pipe connections though
Check the oil itself mate, just because the litle mayo on oil cap doesn't mean gasket gone. If it has gone on idle then there is something very wrong and it wouldn't run right.
Blunty - I checked them anyway but the carb/inlet pipes are brand new. I thought it was a good idea to fight back against carb freeze this winter
Bit pissed off now with the state of the oil - ah the joys of old cars
I will double check all coolant pipes tomorrow as im working tonight.....fingers crossed.
I would panic about here...
5 turbo - that looks bad!!!
thanks for all the input fellas
I have changed the oil again this morning and run it up to temp a few times.... no mayo in the cap yet so its looking good
Last edited by tubbyG; 11-11-2011 at 13:40.
Was irratating to say the least5 turbo - that looks bad!!!
thanks for all the input fellas
I have changed the oil again this morning and run it up to temp a few times.... no mayo in the cap yet so its looking good
Mate is it still running water cooling for the turbo?
I disconnected mine due to a very slight mayoing issue and it vanished...Worth a go if it continues.
Seems to be a c1j anomily the old condensation and cream.....
corsas are bad for it, plastic top cools before the block so condensation forms on the rocker cover, breathers then block and add to the problem.
I wouldnt worry about creamy cap, its only a worry when your losing coolant and your oil on the dipstick looks creamy.
Yeah im running coolant to turbo.
Annoyed tho as I cant afford insurance till next week so all I can do is fire it up and give it a wee rev
fitted a sidey today - feck me!! Its so loud compared to my old system, sounds great but will take a bit of getting used to!
Once I have put some miles on it I will change the oil again so hopefully all the condensation will clear up.
Last edited by tubbyG; 12-11-2011 at 00:04.
I'll keep em crossed 4ya
it needs a good drive to clear the creamyness, starting and stopping in cold weather will make it worse(not that its a problem but dont expect it to get better unless your leaving it running for hours)
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