I thought id share some progress pics. I only get to work on it 1/2 a day a week so progress has been slow, not helped by the body shop having to paint it twice either. Ill put some more pics in my albums on profile later...
I thought id share some progress pics. I only get to work on it 1/2 a day a week so progress has been slow, not helped by the body shop having to paint it twice either. Ill put some more pics in my albums on profile later...
Last edited by Alastair; 28-09-2009 at 20:58.
AHH GOT IT!
im sure i remember you posting about this before, is this the 5 on which the paint reacted and went ripply.?
Originally Posted by raj
Yes mate, i was a tad upset that day! I should have taken it to Dave at SBS... still this coat of paint has stayed on (so far) and its a reasonable job too.
That looks great! Your local to me too, look forward to seeing you aboutWhenever you may finish it lol!
Progress has been fairly slow recntly. I cant wait to get it on the road so am not going as far as originally planned, with the intention of doing other bits after it is roadworthy. Recent progress has seen the rear beam overhauled, new rear brakes assembled and lowered to match the front. Engine progressed with much help from *Boris cheers mate. Windows in and loom in. Area rep providing encouragement but with clean hands! He did manage to hold the unbrella in the rain for 10 mins though
. If we stop tapping our feet to the SugaBabes on the radio we might get some more done...
Last edited by Alastair; 29-02-2012 at 21:35.
i love the colour scheme there, it looks well fresh.
whats the pampers box about? not a permanent heat shield is it
good luck getting it finished mate
LOL, no im thinking of having a hot side and cold side as i have a load of ally sheet lying around, just a template but not sure of final layout under the bonnet yet, no heat shield ideas yet either - running out of room
You decided to go for a charge cooler in the end then buddy? Thats look a big radiator you fitted, where did you source that from?
As for tapping your feet to sugar babes, I still listen to that CD every noe and again, that was left in the stereo, if i ever want some cheesey music
Hey Chris, glad to hear my cheesy music is keeping your speakers pumping!You decided to go for a charge cooler in the end then buddy? Thats look a big radiator you fitted, where did you source that from?
As for tapping your feet to sugar babes, I still listen to that CD every noe and again, that was left in the stereo, if i ever want some cheesey music
As for the C/C I didn't want to hack the front cross member to bits, but sourced a second Pace water rad and plumbed it in series. Due to the lack of space I am thinking of putting them both below the X member, moving the rad over and putting the oil rad infront of the alternator.
Has anyone moved the alternator to the rear of the bay before to make more room? Is it only a case of fabricating a bracket if it will fit?
That looks bloody brilliant
Get a ph2 boot spoiler on there in the darker blue
That looks bloody brilliant
Get a ph2 boot spoiler on there in the darker blue
Cheers TervI've been following the thread about spoilers and have been in two minds to fit it, and I got it done in the dark blue too...!
Who's Terv?
Lol.
Use double-sided tape to tack the spoiler on. The type that has a 1mm sponge middle. It sounds dreadfully chavvy but it works perfectly and will allow you to remove it afterwards if you get bored of the look or get it slightly askew. I should know, mine has been solid for the last 2.5 years and you'd never know by looking at it that I cheated
Managed to get the front arches stonechipped and brakes fitted, dummy fitted front bumper and measured up for the rads. Feels like a lot of progress as somthing changed colour under the arches but in reality im still not a lot closer to getting it back on the road.... Also did a bit of wieghing of brake components for peeps to compare in kilogrammes:
Std disk 3.8
285mm K-tec disk 6.3
Hi Spec 285 disk 5.7
Std Caliper 3.9
Hi Spec Calliper 1.7
Popped a couple of pics in here if anyone is interested: https://www.rtoc.org/boards/album.php?albumid=295
Loving the pics bud! Did those discs come as part of the kit?
Thanks Chris, yeah the disks are the ones supplied by hi spec in the kit, I have a pic of the box and part number somewhere too, but I think they machine the grooves in them and do a bit of drilling. Any chance you can weigh one of your EBC ones if you get chance?
Yea i had a look at them through that link you posted a little while ago, did a quick google and couldnt find them anywhere!
Yea not a problem mate, i think i have still got a corroded one sat outside. Will the corrosion add much weight too it? If yea then i'll whip one off the car!
Cool, prob best to weigh a new one if you get chance? No hurry though, just interested!
Managed to get a few more bits done. Interior coming along with brakes finished, hyd handbrake (couldnt resist) and proportioning Vv. Plumbing layout subject to change but this seems to work, oil rad in front of nearside wheel below headlight to go in with some chopping...
hoping to get it moving over half term and get MOT
Pics attached.
Looking very nice mate. Whats the metal box next to the break resevoir for?
looks like a remote oil filter with cooler take off?!?
Its a remote filter head with a thermostatic take off plate for a cooler underneath. A bit of a faf but means oil is filtered whilst cold. I need to shorten one of the lines by half an inch to marry them up a tad better and do some chopping to get decent air flow through the cooler (to be fitted), hoping to get more done next week, maybe even a drive...
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Really close now mate, it's taken many, many hours work to get it this far, but im sure as you will agree, it was worth putting in the extra time to do the job properly.
Attention to detail is nice on this people...
Looks spot on
LOL you dont do things by half do you bud! When you getting it too Bristol so i can have a butchers!!!Its a remote filter head with a thermostatic take off plate for a cooler underneath. A bit of a faf but means oil is filtered whilst cold. I need to shorten one of the lines by half an inch to marry them up a tad better and do some chopping to get decent air flow through the cooler (to be fitted), hoping to get more done next week, maybe even a drive...
LOL, probably about the same time i get round to dropping Jesus' free boss off! I keep forgetting to pick it up at the weekends! (Sorry mate...!)
Well should be before March sometime Chris its been 14 months now - hows that CD i left ya?...
I have boost withdrawl symptoms
and thanks for the kind words peeps!
Alastair, those tunes just blow the local car park chav scene to oblivion when i go cruising passedWell should be before March sometime Chris its been 14 months now - hows that CD i left ya?...
I have boost withdrawl symptoms
and thanks for the kind words peeps!
Cant wait to see it, some great ideas have gone into this car!
A pics of the progress in the last two days, rain has slowed me up though - what i would give for a workshop with a smooth dry floor, kneeling on wet gravel is not nice... come to think of it neither is drilling and filing 52mm holes in a pants old vice for hours on end...After 2 i gave up and went to a local engineers and it took them minutes to do 3 on the mill....
Fuel system, and breathers left to plumb, finish the interior and then front bumper, grille before first turn of the key... hopefull still in time for Cadwell Park...
How much of that wiring did you manage to get rid of in the end?
Looking spot on!
First light hopfully tomorrow... it needs oil, coolant and a new battery cable knocking up and ill see if i fecked the immpobiliser or not! A couple of pics of new front end and exhaust on... After that there is still a bit of tidying work to do inside, but should hopfuly get it run in in the next couple of weeks. Ive also put some more pics in my rebuild update album on my profile if anyone wants a nosey... needless to say im very happy with seeing the front bumpers and grille on today!
thats smart!!!
this looks awsome
nice work there mate
Looking really nice mate. Not a complaint but the only thing i would say is a nice new header tank
Thanks for the encouragement peeps!
Ok im after a litte help if possible. I went for a start today after a significant loom reduction excercise during the rebuild.
I left the RCL/Immobiliser in for peace of insurance reasons and was careful not to interfere with it too much. However, i have a slight snag (bar a couple of oil leaks from a couple of unions). I have all the electrics working except the fuel pump when i turn the key.
I bridged the relay on what the blue Haynes calls the spedo drive relay (large red to large white wires) and hey presto - fuel pump runs so i tok the opportunity to flush the lines through.
I know my immobiliser cuts the ignition yellow wire to ignition cut out relay - ill check with a fluke tomorrow...
However after studying the manual for some time i can see that the 'fuel pp relay' and the Speedo dirve relay are inextricably linked. As i see it the main switching goes in this order...
no 187 (speedo drive relay) is switched on (latched as i call it) by the AEI white socket pin C (Brown (sometimes green)) wire.
187 main output drives the fuel pp but also sends the latch signal to the (No 493) fuel pp relay
187 fuel pp relay in turn controls the fuel level sensor/no2 fuel p/low level warning light.
So after war and peace my questions are:
1. Are my deductions correct?
2. Where does the feed for the AEI White plug pin C come from? Notal - The same block on Pin A goes to the 'Ignition cut out relay' (no 319) which is latched from the ignition barrel.
2. What is the Impulse generator (no 172) and where is it located - i dont think ths is the timing sensor - too many wires connected to it?
Any help appreciated - if i cant get to the bottom of it ill have to switch the fuel pp directly but after the mater cut off switch and id rather do it properly...
Anyone know if the above is what latches the fuel pp relay?
Hi, I need some help please, after finding out I had connected the AEI plugs the wrong way round I have fuel and a spark! Horray, but when I put a multimeter onto the white wire behind the ignition barrel it is short to earth. Without the spark plugs in the engine turned over fine but now struggles to turn over.
Should this white wire that goes to the start solenoid have such very little resistance to
earth?
Help appreciated been on this all fekin day and want to start it up!!!!
The answer is yes! However I have found the reason why - my multimeter is knackered.
I have tried to start it and proven spark and have 4 psi fuel pressure at carb but only the odd pop and bang - it won't fecking start... Arrrrrggggg time to do a quick timing confidence check with the compression tester before ripping the carb off...
you got that dizzy drive in the right place.lol
are you 180 degrees out mate
I recon 180 out mate, compression test = ~27 PSII fcuked it up big time.
At least I can share the blame though.....
Thats another days work next weekend then...
IT'S ALIVE!
A big thanks to Boris and Robw, they gave it a sanity check and a second compression check with a mechanical (not stupid digital) guage and all seemed ok, turns out I'd timed it on no 4 instead of no 1 and hey ho aspin of the dizzy leads and wrooof off she went
Time to get the some fluid in the brakes and an MOT!
Al` , im so glad its running , well done boys for the help and support, good ole rtoc.., good work buddy.
Cheers Jesus, yeah good ole RTOC to the rescue!
I'm still chasing an intermittant fault in the dash loom, the fuel pp relay seems to be ok now but the dash warning lights or rev counter won't come on ( they did last week?) but indicators and hazards seem ok? I've checked the earths and they seem ok too?
I think if i dont get to the bottom of it soon I might just get a second hand dash loom and get the immobilizer fitted again. The book points me to the yellow on pin 3 of the middle dash connector, which seems to be dead but I haven't had time to chase it through the loom (think it goes to the fuel pp relay yellow).
Anyone any thoughts?
I finished overhauling my wheels after getting inspiration from Brigsy's, thought id post a few pics. This was my first go at spraying and seemd to go ok.
Blasted
Primer going on - 3 coats of hi build after 2 of etch prime...
Colour and 3 coats of laquer
R888 fitted ready to go on...
Oh and Boris called round to help out and i couldn't resist a pic of two 5's together...
For a first attempt they look awesome mate
Are you using 50 profile r888's? Do they fit ok?
Cheers Brigsy
Whoop whoop, passed MOT yesterday, and been for a first drive, it feels very tight!
It was a bit of a saga getting through the MOT, my first pair of hi spec calipers had a leak, so saved up and got new, flexis were a tiny bit too short so had to re make some longer lines, R888 were scrubbing front and rear, had to remove a lot from the fireglass arches with a flap wheel on an angle grinder and raise the front up a little. Brake servo gave up the ghost on the way to the first test...
Out on the road for a steady run I was bedding in the brakes and had forgotton the bias was fully to the rear - that caused some excitemet until I wound it out!
The project is by no means finished, there is a little work to do on the interior and engine bay and then the fiddly process of setting it all up to go round the track.. Stand by for some stupid questions!
I just want to say a big THANK YOU to all the RTOC guys for the help and advice (even the advice I might not have taken). Also special thanks to Boris and RobW, who have come Round and got dirty hands, Thanks!
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