Yet another F7p Turbo conversion

[James5]

are you using the 16v coil or coil packs? as I use and 16v coil and just have it plugged into the oe AEI plug and my rev counter works.

I am using the 16v coil pack looks like the GTT AEI. I will take a peek in a bit

ANy one got idea's as to why the rev's (i have no idea on how much as rpm gauge wasn't working at time but I would say she started at 1500rpms (so I assume cold start or the sensor I am missing due to different box) and then it increases in stages from there upwards for example 1500, then up say to 200, 2500, 3000 and will just keep going up??

[Logg]

Yeah that what I'm using got the plug that would of been plugged into the bottom of the old aei plug into the 16v coil pack.

[5teve L]

Check your tps is secure and set correctly. 2000 ohms over wires A and c when TB closed and around 6000-6500 ohms when tb is fully open using wires a and c.

Then let the engine rev and spray a high pressure cleaner (i.e brake cleaner around the inlet) If the revs drop its drawing in air.

Could also be chip or road speed sensor related, ie not having valver box & clocks....

Remove & block ICV & see if it stalls.

[Brigsy]

Revs increasing could be air leak on inlet mate as Steve said

[James5]

Check your tps is secure and set correctly. 2000 ohms over wires A and c when TB closed and around 6000-6500 ohms when tb is fully open using wires a and c.

Then let the engine rev and spray a high pressure cleaner (i.e brake cleaner around the inlet) If the revs drop its drawing in air.

Could also be chip or road speed sensor related, ie not having valver box & clocks....

Remove & block ICV & see if it stalls.

Yeah was thinking an airleak, I have already ditched the ICV

Will check TPS tomorrow as I am in all day so may get sometime to play with the 5

[philr5t]

Fantastic news that she fires mate really pleased for you after the luck you have had recently with that seized lump but keep going I also think it could be an air leak making the revs rise but I'm shore you will find it well done mate hopefully I'll drive my 5 over to you next week and give you a hand with the air filter hole

[James5]

Fantastic news that she fires mate really pleased for you after the luck you have had recently with that seized lump but keep going I also think it could be an air leak making the revs rise but I'm shore you will find it well done mate hopefully I'll drive my 5 over to you next week and give you a hand with the air filter hole

Cheers matey going to have a play with the 5 today I have another new gasket to put on if it still does it I may just get some sealant on the manifold matting face
Be good to see your 5 on the roads matey my memories still picture it in the garage

[5teve L]

You could also try plugging in the ICV to see what happens, ususlly they unplug them to see if they are working ok..

[turbo ted]

Cheers matey going to have a play with the 5 today I have another new gasket to put on if it still does it I may just get some sealant on the manifold matting face
Be good to see your 5 on the roads matey my memories still picture it in the garage

i think the chipped ecu will cause this problem because when i run a chipped ecu in my r19 track car it will not idle below 1500rpm and rises up and down to 2500rpm

[James5]

Well got some fantastic new's many thanks to 5teveL for popping around this eve and noticing my injector's O rings were to small, changed these over and guess what she idles now @ 1krpm's and my rev gauge now works also again many thanks Steve, (check out the OE stickers on the rear window)

[5teve L]

Helps if you tap into the right wire for the rev counter James
Just glad we had that blowback out of the injector port or I'd have not thought about swapping the lower o-rings !
Nice to hear it burble away anyway, now just need to get mine started again

[tom t]

awesome fellas! sticker looks good aswell just need to add a T.
how long till youres is sorted steve?

are you driving the car now then james or things still to do?

[James5]

awesome fellas! sticker looks good aswell just need to add a T.
how long till youres is sorted steve?

are you driving the car now then james or things still to do?

Mine is pretty much done just awaiting new TB gasket to turn up as I borrowed Steve's PTFE one to run my car, I need to tidy the wiring as I used block connectors to start with to make sure I had the right cable's linked and I need to drill a couple of hole saw holes in my bulkhead 1 for air filter and another so I can run cables through the inner wings oh and I need fuel which will have to be a Jerry can as the closest petrol station is 8 miles away and the 5 won't make it there.


Steve's isn't far of at all his is awaiting a few silicone bends to finish intercooler and coolant pipe run's. At present his is doing what mine was doing with the lack of starting problem I was having the problem for ages turned out the injectors are just flooding the engine if it doesn't catch first time with spark Well I hope that is all his is


Not a bad turn around for a full engine conversion started install 20th may 2011 and finished 13th June 2011.

T28 200sx turbo bought and on way also got a special core adaptor for the 200sx which is M11x1.0mm thread (core size) to -4an.

Hopefully over next couple of days this will arrive and be installed.

[ioshi_s_golf]

Well done fella

[James5]

Feck me just done a 25mile round trip in the gtt and all I can say is I am likeing the conversion first half of the drive was a steady see how she goes and some boost on the way home thrashed it only running 8psi and it fecking fly's love it, a few little nggly things to sort out but nothing major now

Will do these over the next couple of eve's but she runs, many thanks 5teveL for the help and parts matey

[5teve L]

Feck me just done a 25mile round trip in the gtt and all I can say is I am likeing the conversion first half of the drive was a steady see how she goes and some boost on the way home thrashed it only running 8psi and it fecking fly's love it, a few little nggly things to sort out but nothing major now

Will do these over the next couple of eve's but she runs, many thanks 5teveL for the help and parts matey

Had to get at least one running mate, yours was closer to the finish, now it's a frankencar of my bits & yours & at least I know my wiring diagram is ok as well
Felt nice & responsive with that S14 T28 @ 8psi, I'm deffo going for something a little bigger now though for sure

you do realise it does however make you my biatch for the next month or two

[James5]

Had to get at least one running mate, yours was closer to the finish, now it's a frankencar of my bits & yours & at least I know my wiring diagram is ok as well
Felt nice & responsive with that S14 T28 @ 8psi, I'm deffo going for something a little bigger now though for sure

you do realise it does however make you my biatch for the next month or two

Defo a franken car, only thing left that I have not had to fix or purchase again are the turbo downpipe, chargecooler , fastchip ecu's, the rest has either been replaced or been worked on by the machine shop. Cost me double waht it would have done if I done it all with new part's. Steve glas you bought so many F7p engine's


Biatch

It did pull well last night for the 8psi boost I was running what do the standard S14 actuators hold?? as I have got the bleed valve open'd quiet a bit just to make that 8psi of boost, actuator is reference'd to the turbo compressor inlet adaptor, I am thinking of referencing the actuator to the inlet manifold to see if this makes a difference

A bigger turbo would suit it better as full boost on the S14 T28 is about 3.5k-4krpm's but it does just keep pulling though I can live with it ........................for now


Got home last night and the Mrs's open'd the door looked around for the RAC recovery vechile as though she was expecting it and then said no smoke then little faith.

[James5]

Well actuator is now referenced to the inlet manifold and boost has gone up to 12psi, still a few more psi to go yet

Changed alternator for a better one as mine wasn't charging the battery new alternator is now charging the battery but now sounds like he car has a supercharger aswell, so i have tighthened up the alt belt some more to see if this stops the horrible noise

I have also earthed the VSS wire which is pin 3 out on the ECU aswell as this is should eliminate the high idle after a thrashing aswell (fingers crossed).

[James5]

OK tip for peeps don't ground pin 3 causes lots of smoke and wire melting I managed to save the wires and the car drives

[tom t]

no way that was lucky then m8. i take it thatcould have ended up a lot worse and fried the ecu? how did you manage to stop it? or did this happen whilst ideling?

glad its running for you m8!

[James5]

no way that was lucky then m8. i take it thatcould have ended up a lot worse and fried the ecu? how did you manage to stop it? or did this happen whilst ideling?

glad its running for you m8!

Cheers matey I am very pleased she finally runs and runs very well, just annoying pulling up to a junction and she is idleing @ 1500-2000rpm's it's fecking loud.


Tom T thankfully I didn't even get to turn the car on as soon as I put battery leads on it started to smoke so pulled straight off and removed the pin 3 earth I was very lucky

[SCHWARTZ]

well done matey, looks pukka cant wait to see it at the next meet

[DaveMayGTT]

Wow, always some sort of interesting update with you

Sounds like you're there m8, nice one.

[James5]

Cheers guys pic's make it look much better than it actually is think the ole saying is a photo can make a polished turd look good

For peeps whom read this don'twhat ever you do ground the ECU VSS pin 3, causes smoke and possible fire. I was lucky this time.


Well car is still running has a couple of niggly bits left to do on it but I am still driving it about so that's good news and I haven't taken the engine out and I have no plans to take the engine out Turned the boost up some more and now running 14psi going to leave it there so I can monitor the afr's properly but from what I have seen so far they seem ok and crikey the car is fecking rapid wheelspins up very very quick, hit's the 7250 limiter pretty fecking quick from the of, also blowing spark out on hard accelerartion from stand still, so I need to check spark plug gaps sounds awesome.

Engine isn't so tappety anymore, have some blue smoke which I think is valve stem seals maybe guides but to be honest not bothering me at the mo as it drives fantastic and you don't see it if you go fast enough I will sort them out in the future am loving the conversion, turn the key and starts first time

Things left to do

1. Replace battery,
2. Tidy engine bay wires up,
3. Get 2.5" exhaust clamp as one on now broken,
4. Sort high idle after 60mph + drive does it with or without boost,
5. eventually sort valve stem seals / guides.

Got a few things to try on the high idle side will post results once tried them as maybe handy for others whom go down this conversion route

[James5]

Right High idle after a good thrashing over 60mph now sorted, I ditched the ICV and blocked up the ICV pipes undid the small screw on the TB and adjusted the idle, I did this when engine is up to temp, have idle about 1100 rpm's now which I can live with could prob go a little lower, not sure what the cold start will be like as no ICV now, ohwell can't be any worse than a carb'd car

[SCHWARTZ]

i ran mine with no icv just revved about 200rpm higher when hot, dont know about f7p but cant see it being much different.

[Matt@CodeRedMotorsports]

Right High idle after a good thrashing over 60mph now sorted, how sorted ditched the ICV and blocked up the pipes undo the small screw on the TB and adjust idle, do this when engine is up to temp, have idle about 1100 rpm's now which I can live with could prob go a little lower, not sure what the cold start will be like as no ICV now, ohwell can't be any worse than a carb'd car

Cool, it worked then?
Don't forget to seal up the air bypass screw (like a mixture screw on a GTT, it can pop out after a while) with a blob of THIXO or silicon.
Matt@CRM

[Andrew Cooke]

Well actuator is now referenced to the inlet manifold and boost has gone up to 12psi, still a few more psi to go yet

so you're losing 4psi between the compressor and the inlet? Something is wrong there, do you have a leak? Are you getting full throttle? Is something blocked?

[James5]

so you're losing 4psi between the compressor and the inlet? Something is wrong there, do you have a leak? Are you getting full throttle? Is something blocked?

Sorted adaptor for compressor wasn't sealed properly,

[Andrew Cooke]

Sorted adaptor for compressor wasn't sealed properly,

schoolboy error

[James5]

schoolboy error

I make plenty of them

[James5]

Well the good news is the F7pturbo is still up and running and I have no plans to remove the engine the bad news is the Fastchips ECU is unable to provide me with enough fuel for 14psi I am seeing 13.8 @ WOT on a 3 bar reg with 802 injectors.

I fitted a 4bar VW fpr yesterday and afr's @ WOT have improved but still not good enough they are about 12.6 +rises.

I do have an adjustable reg but just waiting on the adaptor to come but I have a feeling even though the fastchips High boost chip was based on 802 injectors I am sure I have read somewhere that some were done on the 803 injectors.

So for now I have reduced the boost by quiet a bit not to sure by how much yet as not driven the car since I just don't want it going bang aslong as i see no more than 12.1 @ WOT it will do for now.


Basically my spec ticks everything on this link

http://www.engine-dynamics.com/epage...20260%20BHP%22

I am wondering if the link has a typo and should be 803 and the low boost setup the 802, although there 320bhp chip apparently used 802's aswell.


http://www.engine-dynamics.com/epage...20320%20BHP%22


Low boost
http://www.engine-dynamics.com/epage...20210%20BHP%22


Does anybody have a set of dark green 803's I can use just to try it out to see if it does improve it at all :SOS:

[Bigfoot]

I would definately say that you would need 803s to run that sort of power.

Got mine running up at the weekend after changing over for a new battery and once again changing over the dizzy cap and rotor arm, run spot on at 15psi

[Brigsy]

Time for a nice standalone setup & proper map mate

[Logg]

Time for a nice standalone setup & proper map mate

No you don't what you want is a phat group A carb tgat solve all you issues with zzzzzzzz boost.

[James5]

Time for a nice standalone setup & proper map mate

I agree but funds are low after the conversion happening so quick and my 4 kids birthdays going on at present over last month, this month and next and then I ahve the Mrs's 30th birthday. I will prob end up getting some 803 injectors seeing what happens with AFR's @ WOT or some equivalent fitment with similar CC's.

If getting 803's makes no difference I will get the standard ECU re-mapped as it can be live mapped might aswell get a better map sensor than the 21t to allow more boost and get the ole girl setup.

No you don't what you want is a phat group A carb tgat solve all you issues with zzzzzzzz boost.

[James5]

Had a conversation with David @ K-tec today as i was interested to see what injectors they used on there setup he advised they used R21T 802 injectors and also used the fastchips High boost chip and they have had them running perfect @ 17psi without an afr problem.


Does anyone think the 803's will help or have I got a fuel supply problem from the walbro 255? the adjustable rising rate reg is set @ 3.2bar with vac line off. Since using my AEM on P04 setting to give my ECU a narrowband signal as well my idle afr's are fine now. The fuel filter is 12months old. Why can I only fuel for 8ps @ WOTi?? This is depressing I just want to run 1bar of boost without problems and I can't afford standalone yet

[5teve L]

Need to check the fuel is there top end matey & not tailing off before the rail...

[James5]

Need to check the fuel is there top end matey & not tailing off before the rail...

Slight update on my project - Car has been going well until recently seem to have a fuel problem suspected blocked filter or the new Walbro has given up did think injectors but afr's are getting worse and worse @ WOT which makes me think fuel pump and the pump is a brand new Walbro GSL392 aka external 255 walbro jobbie, I have tried to contact the seller ebay company seller and they have said no warrenty but I have found other places that say walbro 1 year manufacturers warrenty any one a walbro main dealer and able to get me a replacement pump or get this one back to them so they can look at it and sort it out


Also got a nice ticking noise which I think is exhaust or around the turbo mating flange to manifold area.

[James5]

Yet another update,

Walbro 255 (GSL392) removed decided I am sending it back to Walbro, Borrowed a Bosch pump of Gary aka The Wallaby . Seems better on idle already although not driven it yet. Still need to sort the hydraulic lifters out which I will do next week one eve

[steer from the rear]

Yet another update,

Walbro 255 (GSL392) removed decided I am sending it back to Walbro, Borrowed a Bosch pump of Gary aka The Wallaby . Seems better on idle already although not driven it yet. Still need to sort the hydraulic lifters out which I will do next week one eve

i bought a new set of lifters for 62 quid, seem ok quality will see if they work next week

[Bigfoot]

i bought a new set of lifters for 62 quid, seem ok quality will see if they work next week

I guess those were the set off ebay which he has loads of, dont know how they are that cheap as cant even get them into our work place for that cheap

[philg]

Im pleased you have this running now james, sounds to me you are nearly there Get the pump and fueling sorted and happy days

phil

[James5]

Well car is still doing it with a different pump I will check sender from tank and the return pipe's also make sure breathers are not blocked now

[SCHWARTZ]

Thats a ****ter matey the pump was running fine last time I used it, as you know I had a lot of trouble with kinks in the fuel feed I also put a hose pipe clip on the sender end to make sure it was air tight and didnt loose vaccuum. May be worth a shot

[James5]

Thats a ****ter matey the pump was running fine last time I used it, as you know I had a lot of trouble with kinks in the fuel feed I also put a hose pipe clip on the sender end to make sure it was air tight and didnt loose vaccuum. May be worth a shot

I don't think either pump is @ fault now, blocked fuel feed or return is blocked, will investigate next week one eve

[SCHWARTZ]

Hopfully its an easy fix matey, defo check that feed.

[James5]

5Tevel popped over last night for a quick play with the 5 and he seem's to think the problem could be down to a dodgey TPS sensor as he noticed it was slightly loose




Just noting the correct setting below


resistance:

from 1800 +/- 200 Ohms at no load to 3000 +/- 200 Ohms at full load

resistance of the throttle potentiometer circuit: 4000 Ohms
(these values are from Clio 16V manual)

[SCHWARTZ]

I dont know how much the f7p relys on the tps but the volvo runs fine without it just dosnt get an extra squirt of fuel like with the acc pump jet on the 32dis.

[James5]

I hope it is the TPS, on the F7p the car does not run properly with it not plugged in.