my innovate lc1 is stuck on 14.9. if i kill the ignition and then start again the numbers slowly creep back up to 14.9 and stays there. any ideas?
my innovate lc1 is stuck on 14.9. if i kill the ignition and then start again the numbers slowly creep back up to 14.9 and stays there. any ideas?
Originally Posted by car.crash
cheers john. i will open it up and check for rusty parts inside new casings
do you have and led installed? if yes, then you can look at the blinking error.
installation must be exact as the booklet says, otherwise it won't work properly (i have experinance on that one)
Instalation was perfect. Been in the car for ages and working fine now this has happened. No led fitted though.
5 flashes on led
Error 5Reference cell circuit
shorted
1. Short in sensor cable
2. Short in sensor
1. Repair sensor cable.
2. Replace sensor.
i cant see a short in the cable or any damage. the car has done hardly any miles and i get this. innovate products suck balls!
innovate stuff ain't all bad, There is nothing wrong with the lm-1, the lc-1 is known for faults
when was the last time you did an calibration?
couldt solve the problem
it wont calibrate as it thinks the sensor is faulty.
try to install it like "first time use" maybe it helps
just tried another sensor and all is well. very dissapointed how quick the bosch sensor failed though.
I was told when I had my lc-1 was not to keep it in the downpipe all the time due to the sensor burning itself out quite quickly
i thought that was the whole point in having it
i had best pull the sensors out of all the cars in my street then.. these things should last, theres a fault here and i dont think its the sensors, they manage in all the other cars on the planet for more than 2 months use..I was told when I had my lc-1 was not to keep it in the downpipe all the time due to the sensor burning itself out quite quickly
the lc1 product is dog sh1t, just search on google.. f*ck up after f*ck up..
wideband sensors arent like the usual zirconia or titania sensors found in most vehicles, theres only a few manufacturers starting to use them in there mainstream cars, but you are correct they shouldnt fail without a cause. over fueling or any kind of silicone in the fuel can kill them quickly.
Bosch Wideband Sensor - 0 258 006 066
Bosch Wideband Sensor - 0 258 007 057
Wide-Band Lambda Sensor (LSU4)
Within the Bosch range, this is the latest development, the wide-band sensor, which is a planar dual-cell limit-current sensor. The combination of planar technology and its modular design allows the integration of a variety of functions (diesel-engine control, lean-burn concept for engines and gas-engine control). The sensor element is a combination of a sensor cell and an oxygen pump cell, which serves for ion transportation. This sensor is capable of precise measurement, all the way from lean mixture through to rich mixture, The sensor outputs a clear, continuous signal throughout a wide Lambda range. A heater is integrated in the sensor to ensure the required operating temperature of 700-800 degC.
Characteristics: Linear and continuous characteristic curve; precise measurement over wide range; short response times; operating in 20 seconds; resistance to ageing; resistant to the effects of deposits and poisoning; robust and compact; highly temperature resistant; resistant to stone impact and corrosion; submersible; double protective tube.
I dont think he meant it would actually burn out, probably more along the lines of using its lifespan lol. not sure on wideband sensors but normal sensors are meant to be around 5 years 90,000ish miles.
i personally think the sensor failing isnt likely to be the lc1s fault unless the heater element isn't being controlled properely. more likely the tendency for 5's to burn abit of oil and not be fueled as accurately as a modern efi car.
how is it fitted in the crossover pipe? 12o'C 9o'C etc... and how far away from the turbo elbow is it fited?
11 o'clock halfway down the downpipe. pre turbo temps are around 600 degrees afr is around 11's
defo shouldnt have failed that quickly then. thats basicly how mine is fitted and i didnt have any problems when car was running. is that afr's of 11 at wot?
part and full throttle are around those readings give or take a little.
what oil are you using? just out of interest.
maby slightly rich but cant see that killing it thats what its designed to do.
The sensor is designed to work at 14.7, the sensor hasnt been modified in anyway to work outside of that. obviously it can measure alot higher and lower but usually sensors are switching leaner and richer than 14.7
2 days later i recieve a answer from innovate saying "sensors are not coverd under warranty" what a crock of ****e there customer service is.
I'd put money on it being a problem with the LC-1 thats killed the sensor, I've had my LM-1 in since august 2009 and that uses the same bosch sensor with no problems.
I even tried the sensor that my LC-1 said was faulty with my LM-1, suprise suprise it works just fine
My sensor in my LM-1 has been used almost daily for 4 years or so and still works.
Off boost and idle is about 14.7 on boost has been anything from high 10's- low 12's while playing with the fuelling. And it still all works. To me it sounds like the LC-1 has a design fault in it and burns out the sensor.
i have orderd a sheet of copper so i can make a heat sink incase it failed from overheating.
i did a continuity test on all the wires from the base of the sensor under the plastic sheeth to the plug and all wires are fine so its inside the sensor itself that failed not a broken wire.
Mark what thickness copper you order? is it too late to cancel as I may have something here that you could use.
i orderd 1.5 mm copper. its what innovate suggested. if it works its a bonus but it may not tbh. it was not expensive mate but thanks for the offer
Ok well i'll put this offer out in the open then as I dont need them.
I have 4 heatsinks I made up ages ago (just need drilling) but they're only 0.8mm each so could be doubled up for 1.6mm?
If anyone wants them let me know.
il have one lee. dont want mine failing nowOk well i'll put this offer out in the open then as I dont need them.
I have 4 heatsinks I made up ages ago (just need drilling) but they're only 0.8mm each so could be doubled up for 1.6mm?
If anyone wants them let me know.
im just not buying a piece of metal like a 4 inch by 2 inch bolted down will do much of anything.. these turbos get hotter than a jog round the sun and that lamba 6 inches from it, bolted to a downpipe thats at god knows what temp..
when you say heat sink i have an image in my mind of something genius, a tiny heat shields not gonna do sh1t..
this is what i see as a heatsink, something thats gonna disperse the heat over a large surface area, but without airflow thats not going to do alot either.. i can see the surface area of the shields yay big, but i dont see it fu*king off the heat quicker than its coming..
i think the lamda's still cooking, but has wings
Oh I agree mate, believe it or not though those ones I knocked up were actually to the specs in the innovate lc-1 manual (bar the thickness hence using 2).im just not buying a piece of metal like a 4 inch by 2 inch bolted down will do much of anything.. these turbos get hotter than a jog round the sun and that lamba 6 inches from it, bolted to a downpipe thats at god knows what temp..
when you say heat sink i have an image in my mind of something genius, a tiny heat shields not gonna do sh1t..
this is what i see as a heatsink, something thats gonna disperse the heat over a large surface area, but without airflow thats not going to do alot either.. i can see the surface area of the shields yay big, but i dont see it fu*king off the heat quicker than its coming..
i think the lamda's still cooking, but has wings
They didn't cost anything so no loss, you can have a pair Gary giving you 1.6mm so one pair left for anyone who wants them.
nice one lee il give it a go see if it dose anything (prob not) but at bare minimum it will prevent wires from getting burned. Is that a heat sink of a 10turn r/c motor dave?
thats all i can see it saving is the top half of the sensor and the wiring, but that could be done with some sleeving.. i still think the heats gonna go straight up the sensor in the end..
the heat sinks just off a google, i typed in heat sink and not one pic of a metal bent 3 times came up.. because its not going to do a very good job of it.. a fuel filters got more surface area than a sheet of coffee filter paper, and that heatsink needs more heat despersing area than a single piece of metal..
i'd say wrap the sensor but once hot your keeping the heat in..
im pretty sure this isn't the answer in this form, but i have no idea what to suggest..
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