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Last edited by raj; 11-12-2011 at 15:10.
Does sound very strange indeed.
First check that you don't have a massive crack the size of Katie Price's muff in the intercooler, also check there isn't a huge leak at the exhaust manifold, either of these problems would leak enough gas to not drive the Turbo
take the air intake off and make sure the wheel is spinning under hard revs.....(stationary)
then check what hulk said...lol
no worries mate the 5 looks sweet as now, as for the boost
The problem before was the wastegate was partially open and you were bleeding all the exhaust gas down the exhaust rather than it hitting the turbine wheel. There wasn't enough thread on the actuator rod to give it sufficient enough preload. Also, that wasn't a genuine -31, i'm afraid, it's a copy actuator, it was holding pressure though.
Also, that wasn't a genuine -31, i'm afraid, it's a copy actuator, it was holding pressure though.[/quote]
Refund refund refund
Surely if you take the actuator arm off, and hold the wastegate penny closed with some mole grips on the pivoting arm, and rev the nuts off it you should get some boost.
This is a puzzler this one, last car i do and it stumps me!
The actuator has so much preload it should be running tons of boost, when driving it it just feels so flat, not even here the turbo spool up like you could if you had a boost leak.
Exactly like driving a NA 5.
It does produce a small amount of chatter when lift off but very mininal, boost gauge reach's 0psi and won't go past, even drove it with vacumn pipe off actuator so it solely relied on actuator to open wastegate but still nothing, no boost not even 1psi
just eliminate the possibilty of it being the turbo!!!! get another on there....
Garrett print their part number on their parts, that had nothing, and the actuator was a slightly different design to a -31, plus it's been galvanised a different colour. I didn't mention anything as I assumed you meant -31 ''style'' actuator, I missunderstood.
Have you now cut thread on the rod right up to the two mounting lugs? That's usually how far I need to cut it for Renault 5's when we fit them.
Take ur boost pipe off rev the car and you should feel the turbo boosting.do it at the turbo, then at the carb top hose. if you have boost at the turbo end but not at the carb top end then theres a leak or restriction. try it with another air filter? i cant imagine it being blocked enough to give no boost but its worth a try. even a goosed turbo should provide some boost lol
start at beginning, on my car if you look at turbine blades they spin when car is ticking over,then if you give it 2 thousand rev's and put your hand over you will feel the suction like a hooverthen start working your way along
if it does the above mentioned
my mate had this problem and what he had done was use a rag to clean inside is pipes and left it in ha ha
I would still say there maybe a split in ya fmic somewhere??
Yep intercooler is fine after that test. Now check your exhaust manifold for leaks/cracks
Try another turbo on then you will know if its at fault.
Sounds like the turbo to me.
For sure, there shouldn't be any oil in the turbo inlet, unless you've got the o.e breather setup plumbed into the telephone hose, but even then it should only be vapour marks of oil present & not a puddle like your picture shows.
Fairly sure we've been all through this before though - It was suggested last time that your turbo's suspect.
Somebody must have an old smoker you can borrow to test, doesnt have to be a mint condition unit to see if it boosts up.
chock the front of the car up (very securely) and get someone to put her into gear and get her on boost (well try to) put your head in the engine and see if you can hear the boost leak...(if it is one)
leave the air filter off and then you can clearly see if the turbine spins up...
and at least your will see the act arm opening/closing then too
raj,
did you check the one way valves behind the inlet manifold, you'd be amazed how a small hole would leak all your boost into the atmosphere.
i wouldnt put ur hand on the induction side, lil dangerous. u should feel plenty of air blasting out of the compressor side. Another thought. can you feel plenty of exhaust gases escaping? a restriction in the exhaust could cause it. ive only ever come accross cats melting causing this but maybe ur backbox could be blocked. someone put a potatoe up there??
Raj,
I don't know the first thing about this but the AEI, is definitely a GTT one isn't it?
Or, if it is an RE209; if the vacuum diaphragm is perished, could this cause this kind of problem? I don't know.
Just a thought, in order to rule it out.
Have you re-sealed the blanking plate on the compressor housing? I know there was alot of sealer on the outer rim, but if you don't seal the inner ring it's going to leak any pressure that is built up straight back into the intake pipe.
The core of the turbo, which we rebuilt, was mechanically fine, well within tolerance. Infact, there was no wear on anything when it was sent back. The crack on the exhaust housing isn't ideal, but it should still be making boost
Pretty sure it needs the pressure there to stop the oil passing the seals?? someone correct me if im wrong tho.
Originally Posted by raj
i got my lip stuck down the pipe when i was testing it
^^^^^^^
With no pressure to equalise i think it forces a little oil past the seals.
We prime our turbo's before they go on the shelf, where they may sit for months. The oil eventually makes it way past the pistons rings. They use pressed ring seals, so it's going to need pressue to stop it from leaking. Hence why you're not burning oil out of the exhaust, you've got the constant exhaust gas flowing through the back end.
Its all about wishfull thinkingits what owning a 5 is all about.
Raj
As long as there is sufficient exhaust gas passing a 'correctly matched rear turbine to the cubic capicity of the engine' then as long as the ex turbine is connected to the compressor wheel 'correctly matched' then it will produce pressure. After that your chasing a boost leak, or actuator issue or the compessor wheel aint attached to the core shaft!!! Ether pop another turbo on or pressure test the boost circuit and report back.
i thinking out loud what about cam timing out or tappets are to tight?
Turbo's got to come off mate, think that the only way now to really see whats going on with it. Its only thing it can be as everything else is spot on.
Raj, is it more than a coincidence that you've got no brake pedal AND no boost? Does this suggest two problems from the one same root perhaps?
Wondering if you have a leak between master cylinder and servo? Maybe the new master cylinder seal is a dud? If either one, could this be somehow connected through a vacuum issue to the no boost situation?
Raj, i have a t2 here if you want to borrow it for a test. Smokes like enron on a good day but boosts up fine.
Last edited by Brigsy; 25-07-2010 at 18:40.
Its a poss mate, when we did the brakes and bleed it up the pedal felt nice and firm, once you turned engine on pedal went to floor, i think servo has gone.Raj, is it more than a coincidence that you've got no brake pedal AND no boost? Does this suggest two problems from the one same root perhaps?
Wondering if you have a leak between master cylinder and servo? Maybe the new master cylinder seal is a dud? If either one, could this be somehow connected through a vacuum issue to the no boost situation?
Now we did notice the AFR's leaned right out when you worked the brakes alot so suspected the one way valve, we fitted new one and this helped out alot, not perfect but better. Played with it alittle more, few more bleeds and we got some sort of pedal with the engine running and then started to work nicely.
Only thing with this theory is the one way valve is there to stop boost going into the brake servo, so if new one is fitted this should eliminated the fault there and allowed boost to flow through engine but it still has no boost what so ever with the new oneway valve in.
silly question, but do you have the throttle cable adjusted correctly?
Yeah throttle cable is spot on mate.
It's one that Raj supplied himself, Turbo Developments don't sell them
Raj,
How about jamming the wastegate shut and see what happens?
i cant remember if markey did thiseither that or he ran it with the actuator arm off.! i cant remember now
whats the best method of holding the wastegate shut?
A piece of threaded bar and washers will do the trick. Other than welding it shut you need something that can hold the pressures. Find out if this has been done Raj, could be that simple.
I ran the car with the actuator arm on but no vacumn pipe going to it so it should of produced a fair bit of boost with the amount of preload that actuator has wound on it.
Js give him a call instead?? would be better..
I do keep saying that, lol. If he wasn't a member then it would be the only option. Plus, it's easier to discuss things in detail over the phoneJs give him a call instead?? would be better..
Logic says that it must be the turbo (i know hind sight a beautiful thing) but, for there to be no boost at all it cant really be anything else. If there was a boost leak you would here a loud hissing as air was escaping and if there was a crack in the exhaust you would here a loud ticking noise.
In either case there would still be some boost getting to the carb.
I think there must be something going on with the wastegate? It can't be sealing properly, maybe a bent gate shaft that locks before it's fully home?
what A/R is the rear housing? 0.63? 0.64? 0.86?
are you sure you checked throughly for boost leaks? carb top for splits (if its plastic) inter cooler etc? have you tried the wd40 trick to see if you can find the boost leak ? im no turbo expert but Adam L is and i would assume thats ok..??
as for the oil in the turbo have you pulled or your breathers off as a blocked breather or restricted one would back the oil up into the turbo....
And how did ian nixon confirm it was the turbo? surely he would have a spare to whip it on to confirm his theory?
Check the interccoler.
I had similar problem with my 1st GTT 15 years ago. There was a leak between the alloy and the plastic parts which could not be seen just when we pressure tested it.
Pretty sure he said he pressure tested the intercooler
Just so everyone knows i've checked the car over twice and was there when Ian gave it the once over too, there are no boost leaks anywhere on the boost circuit.
The actuator is fine, its got tons of preload but still doesn't want to build boost.
What Ian did find is the turbo runs more vacumn the moment you rev the engine, instead of going straight up it carry's on creating vacumn to begin with.
Also the turbo spins very freely, but reving the engine hard and holding your hand over the turbo outlet there is hardly any pressure coming from there.
It is a strange one but does seem to point towards the turbo.
what does the exhaust note sound like?? normal?? and have u taken the elbow off the turbo and had a look??
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