MOT WOO HOO ...and running temps....Sorry

[J8TRO]

Right, Car went through its MOT today after being off the road for nearly 2 years! So i'm well happy.

As I gave it a good drive on the way back to my house I finaly got a good idea of how it handles etc and runs. Firstly I think it runs OK, but will be booked onto the rollers ASAP. Only when its running cold on the choke does it feel lumpy and hold back......anyone else get this?

The only other check was running temps........sorry I know this is a common topic. On the photo below (yes crap cos its dark and taken on my phone) i class the bottom bar as 1, middle one as 2 and top as 3. You cant make out the top set of lines which mean overheating but can relate it to the guage by the temp logo to the left. you with me?



My temp gets up to just after the 3rd bar and then the fan kicks in, it brings it back to the 3rd bar and cuts back out, generally the temps stay around the 3rd bar. The temp doesn't rise anywhere near the top set of bars, but i'm just checking everything is ok as my friend with a raider says his never goes over the 3rd bar and generally sits bang in the middle of the 2nd and 3rd bar. Is it all depentant on set up etc? mines std as far as I know.....I have an over ride switch but even leaving this on constant the temp does not go below half way between bars 2 & 3.....should I be concerned?

[OUTLAW]

3rd bars ok mate, any higher, stop and investiagate straight away. if your mates raider runs a bit cooler, thats just a bonus. after the 3rd bar, you may cause major damage

[Gttnutter]

it does'nt sound right with your temp readings, all of my 5's ive owned and currunt seem to sit just on the 2nd bar then raises to dead centre then fan cuts in and brings it back down.

sounds like you may have a poor mixture of coolant or maybe a small air lock. try flushing through and renew the coolant??

[James5]

it does'nt sound right with your temp readings, all of my 5's ive owned and currunt seem to sit just on the 2nd bar then raises to dead centre then fan cuts in and brings it back down.

sounds like you may have a poor mixture of coolant or maybe a small air lock. try flushing through and renew the coolant??

Mine does the same as GTTnutter, if it even touched the 3rd bar i would be concerned let alone over it. Do the checks as per GTTnutter advices.

[djinuk]

outa intersted that ° should the r5s fan come on.. as i have after market gauges

[Chris Hebden]

It seems that their is a massive mixture of readings on these cars! Mine reads 84 on the spa gauge when the fan kicks in, which is just below bar one! Only when the wire broke on my rad fan switch has the needle ever reached in between the 1st and 2nd bar and that was 90 when i managed to pull over!

[Gttnutter]

outa intersted that ° should the r5s fan come on.. as i have after market gauges

I would of thought somewhere around 80 degress or just above

[sphinX]

Mine sits on the 2nd bar all day long, raises to about half way between 2nd and 3rd when on boost for long period of time. The fan comes in around this point, but this is all with a low temp thermostat and switch. Standard im sure its meant to sit around the 3rd bar?

[Brigsy]

Shouldn't run that hot really mate, should be no higher half way between 2nd & 3rd bar on slow speeds, i.e 30 mph, Fast cruising just above the 2nd mark. Rad fan should cut in on 3rd bar & bring it back down to around half way.

As said check for airlocks & make sure the coolant mix is right.

Also if its an old rad it may be blocked causing this, seen it happen before.

[dave j gtt]

check coolent pipes from carb base and inlet manifold for leaks and also water pump.

get car hot and leave running while having a look

dont let get hoter than it is at the moment. also keep checking coolent level.

could be an old clogged up radiator.

[J8TRO]

Right, been in the garage for a while...... the coolant level is fine and the coolant mix looks fine as the water is as pink as......no seriously. PINK.

At ND Ryan P had his Rad off in minutes, I've just spent 30 mins looking at mine........

what is the easiest way to unclip the bottom hose off the rad to drain and where is the cylinder block drain plug.....i still want to flush the whole system.....my rad is also looking a little bashed and old

Why does reading the haynes make things sound easy.......

[AdamC]

where is the cylinder block drain plug.....i still want to flush the whole system.....my rad is also looking a little bashed and old

In the following picture its between the rear lifting eye and the timing cover. Can't see it too well as its painted red.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._5/newside.jpg

[raj]

block drain plug is located just under the engine lifting eye next to the timing cover.

get your rad out and flush all the sh1te out of it.

regarding the temp, all engines ive built using std stats/switches and rad- the temp sits just a tickle over the 2nd mark and rises to a tickle over the 2 &a half when driven hard, the fan always cuts in and sends the temp back down.

[dave j gtt]

if the rads looking worst for where ,it prob is.

prob time to buy a new one.

bottom rad hose can be a pain, i took my rad off and seperated the bottom hose from the water pump.

[BriC]

bottom rad hose can be a pain, i took my rad off and seperated the bottom hose from the water pump.

Same - Always do it that way

[Shane P]

Shouldn't run that hot really mate, should be no higher half way between 2nd & 3rd bar on slow speeds, i.e 30 mph, Fast cruising just above the 2nd mark. Rad fan should cut in on 3rd bar & bring it back down to around half way.

As said check for airlocks & make sure the coolant mix is right.

Also if its an old rad it may be blocked causing this, seen it happen before.