Anyone thinking of going to this ?
Make sure you don't if you are using a RTOC desktop calendar
Anyone thinking of going to this ?
Make sure you don't if you are using a RTOC desktop calendar
yeah i might be going to this
Well don't go this Friday ......as that's when it's listed on the RTOC calendar
http://www.retroshow.co.uk/
18th of july isnt it?
Yes .
I'll be popping along to this too, will be having abit of a play in the campus again.
If I can get the list done then I'll be there in the GTA .Trapped a nerve in my back so struggling to get any car stuff done at the moment
I really did think it was this weekend coming ...stupid printers
I'm doing round 3 of ESC at retro show, I'll be pitted in the that section if anyone wants a chat.
http://www.eurosportscompact.co.uk/points2010.php Well done on progess madeOriginally Posted by Scoff
And good look mate on this upcoming Round 3
need all the luck I can gethttp://www.eurosportscompact.co.uk/points2010.php Well done on progess made
hows the vag box holding together?
I beleave CPL and TDI are down this weekend for the summer nationals... chasing the 9`s... come on scoff we need you beat them all to the 9sssss...ill be down for retro show..
fine thanks allan. synchro's still very slow but much improved over last year.
Is this your stage one gearbox ?
It looks like your car is a real contender even without race 1 your trap of 141mph and 10.6 your cars a weapon 2nd fastest trap
Most take some steelie balls, i need to lose my santa pod virginity abit slower that that
Last edited by dave j gtt; 15-06-2010 at 13:28.
He did mate, 10.3@143mph at Pod Day.More time driving it you'll probs improve further
Best terminal of 144mph, thats seriously moving!
Hi Scoff, not sure what arrangement you have on your synchro's, but an old Fiat trick to get the boxes to shift faster for race, was to remove every other synchro tooth
HHHHwwwwwwaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyHi Scoff, not sure what arrangement you have on your synchro's, but an old Fiat trick to get the boxes to shift faster for race, was to remove every other synchro tooth
You know, everywhere I look I hear that old trick but having sat down with a syncho in hand I just can't see how it makes the slightest bit of difference, other than to make it weaker and more failure prone. I spoke to my gearbox builder about it and he was adiment it would not help - ofcourse, he and I could be wrong
Ultimately you have a set of dogs that need to line up with a collar, and a syncho in between. Removing half the teeth (or any number) makes no difference to the amount the synchro has to move before it'll engage, ie if it's half a tooth out and blocking the progress of the collar then whatever you do with the synchro it'll still need to move half a tooth's worth to allow the remaining teeth to line up, which surely takes just as much synchro friction to achieve. In the end I kept standard synchro's but in A1 condition and ran a thin oil to speed them up. Helped no end, but still nothing like as lightening quick as I could get through the GTT box.
Removing the synchro's completely was another option but the gearbox builders warned me I'd be smashing dog teeth of at every meeting (they know how I "used" to shift
Long post, should have started a thread
scoff the company i work for now used to be owned by pete doughty who i still do side jobs for machining gears for cossie boxes he knows his stuff and is very well known in the ford circles for his gear boxes i could speak to him when hes back from the states or put you in touch with him maybe just another angle to look at or be able to give you some suggestions?
Ross, yeah, would be interested to know what he thinks.
oh you know where a gear cutter is allready....
no, but I know a good gear breakeroh you know where a gear cutter is allready
OK I'll try and give him a bell tomorrow could you elaborate more on your issue with synchro issue you have so I can relay back to him to give him an idea of what you'd like to achieve if that makes sense.
yeah, they're slow
Get use to it and get the most out the tune, you'll suss it....
or ask a said company to supply you a dog box for free or at least cheaper. For advertising and testing there product
Decided I am going to visit Pod Retro day and have a walk round with Girlfriend.
looks a real good day
Are you going to be there on the 17th of July as well or you just going for the sunday day ?need all the luck I can get
I'm glad I stumbled into this convo.
I have huge gear change problems in my un1.
I have recently spoken to a guy (mach1 transmissions retired owner) and he says the un1 can't change gear at high rpms.
He offers some mods to over come this but didn't tell me exactly what.
What I can gather is some parts can be polished to improve the change,
then he offers the next step which is not recomended for a road car, he says it makes it jerky, hard to pull away in traffic, but great for fast changes. I winder if he removes some teeth?
I'm about to pick up a spare box to have the work done on as mines terrible.
If I can find out what's done I'll do it myself.
Might b worth you speaking to him scoff?
Also you say running thinner oil will help? I thought u needed thicker oil as it means it slows the synchros more? As it's harder to squeeze out the small gaps in the synchros?
I run redline lightweight shockproof oil, 80/140.
Stu, what I have learnt and has worked to good effect for me is to use the cheapest, thinnest oil you can find. Synchro's will work a lot faster with thin oil because they're able to push the oil out of the way quicker. A thick oil slows them down. Worse than that, a 'good' slippery oil will make them worse still because it'll kill the friction that the synchro's need in order to operate. I hear ATF works well
theres so many different opinions out there its ridiculous.
i have heard that thin oil is squeezed out the way too quickly to slow down the synchro meaning its spinning too fast to engage the next gear,
thicker oil improves it cos it makes the synchro slow down more as it has to work harder to squeeze the oil out,
also you want the least amount of friction modifiers as poss.
i have had a few concersations with opie oils recently, they recon the redline shockproof oils are the best thing out there at the mo, and is what i run, the problem with changing is i need 4L at a time which isnt cheap, (£100 for the last lot)
did you nitice an improvement when going from a good thick oil to a thin one then?
might be worth me trying
Huge difference, night and day. I tried engine oil, that was better but not good enough. ATF was the answer, same synchro's, 200% better. Ok, still slow but last year I couldn't use it at all on the track. Problem with ATF is it doesn't like to stay in the box, it was quite hard work sealing the thing up so that it didn't leak like a sievetheres so many different opinions out there its ridiculous.
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Yes, for sure.
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i have heard that thin oil is squeezed out the way too quickly to slow down the synchro meaning its spinning too fast to engage the next gear
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B/S I think, just not possible. The synchro needs to get the gear UP to speed, so friction is what you need. thick oil = poor friction.
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also you want the least amount of friction modifiers as poss.
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Yes, hence cheap oil
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i have had a few concersations with opie oils recently, they recon the redline shockproof oils are the best thing out there at the mo, and is what i run, the problem with changing is i need 4L at a time which isnt cheap, (£100 for the last lot)
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yeah, a few of the guys I race with and some others in HKS talk highly about that stuff, but I think that they're more worried about breaking things, they don't seem to be having synchro problems to begin with.
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did you nitice an improvement when going from a good thick oil to a thin one then?
might be worth me trying
if its that much different i will give it a try
i have the lightweight shockproof, maybe i should try the superlight
copied and pasted from their site,
REDLINES unique ShockProof™ Gear Oils are recommended for heavily loaded racing differentials and gearboxes which see shockloading.
ShockProof™ contains a unique solid dispersion which cusions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities to give less drag and better shifting. Available as SuperLightWeight, LightWeight and Heavy.
SuperLight A unique product with the viscosity of 75W-90 gear oil but lower internal friction similar to that of an ATF. Used when temperatures are not high and when the maximum power output is required such as in stock car qualifying laps.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1021-red...il-70w-75.aspx
i have emailed redline direct and will see what they have to say.
shame it costs so much to try lol
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