One of my favourite projects of all time
One of my favourite projects of all time
Just abit but thats done to the map being done for running in only and the rev limit set to 4kOriginally Posted by TrixNFlix
Superb work.
Over fueling by any chance?
Superb work.
Over fueling by any chance?
nope afr are in the high 12's -13's , its got soft cut set at 4000rpm then hard cut at 5000rpm supercharger starts to really pull at 4000 rpm which is a shame as i couldnt change quick enough hence the bangneed to sort out a pedal stop as hyrdo clutch works well but pushing down to far forces to much on pressure plate
turbo disabled for the moment until its run in for a 1000 miles then the remap and big fun begins, if the gearbox will take it
cheers scoff ,that means a lot coming from the mad scientist himselfOne of my favourite projects of all time
if the gearbox lets go i will be beating a path to your door
brakes also a little bit under powered at front ,does'nt really inspire much confidence at higher speed braking , no servo being the main reasonalthough it did feel quite balanced between front and back , never mind im sure the wilwood four pots coming next week will sort them out
anybody got ideas for tracking , was thinking 3 degree's toe in on rear wheels and maybe 1-or 2 on the front , open to all ideas
what are peoples views on the negative camber on the rear .....to much???
good to see its finally alive!!!
with my old RWD andy I ended up with 0 deg camber at the front and whatever factory standard GTT front camber is at the rear. I also stiffened the standard anti-roll bar at the rear somewhat. I played about with tracking too. A few degrees toe-in at the rear made it feel a lot more stable. Hopefully your tie rods at the rear will be pretty parrallel with the floor too. I used to suffer with bump steer with the standard rack angles until I sorted that out.
In the end the car was pretty well balanced, to me anyway. You could throw it into corners and you'd get a hint of understeer before the back started to get loose. It was quite controllable in the dry. Totally different matter in the wet. You will need to be SO carefull it's untrue. I could spin 180° at 30mph on a roundabout in the rain on new yoko A539's I think they were. Take every corner super carfull once its damp. I even lost it in a straight line once. damp road, lit the rear wheels up at 60mph and ended up heading down the carriageway at 45° for a moment. thankfully by that point I was getting used to RWD so it didn't phase me much. I think if I had of done that early on I'd have stacked it
Amazing project!!! CONGRATULATIONS!
Depending on what you do with the rack you could create some rear wheel steering. would take some clever geometry thinking, if your rack was above level with the track rod ends and ahead of the rear wheels this should toe out as the wheel moves up when weight is transfered to the outside wheel also going lighter on the inside wheel would have the opposite effect and toe in. but as said on bumps would prob create bumpsteer. something to look in to tho, theres a good read on competition geometry, good for learning basics, competition car suspension a practical handbook fourth edition allan staniforth.
After losing a copy of my favourite book chassis engineering I recently bought that book and found it a bit wordy.. maybe I should have read it again but I found chassis engineering gets more to the point so I've just bought a second copy.. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chassis-Engi.../dp/1557880557 If you fancy the alan stanforths book let me know and I'll let you have it cheaper than you can find anywhere else
As for the bump steer I eliminated mine by fixing the rear hubs.. quite a bit of work and my plan is to re-do them basically a copy of the rear end of a mojo a kit car which pretty much resembles what we are trying to do.. whilst I'm at it I will try to move the engine & box 100mm to equal the weight out as with me sat in it it's quite one sided although you are in a better position as you have a wider rear track to start with.. mines still std r5 gttt. Here's a link to a site that the owner of the mojo talks about his issues with setup (and he designs suspension) http://www.everettmail.co.uk/mods/mods_sus_align.htm.
Another thing I've found with mine is I need to lower it to keep the center of gravity down and in turn this means I'm running out of travel on the shocks so I may have to go stiffer with the springs (fortunatly they're 2 1/4 coilovers but it still costs when you buy a set at £30 only to find out they're too soft.. maybe I should read that book again)
If I make any progress I'll let you know.. I'm planing on doing a full seasons hillclimbing next year so hopefully by the end of the year I should have something that handles
Here's a couple of pics of a mojo and you'll see how much of the back end could be incorporated into the five..
thankyou for the input Tony ,Andrew
looks amazing matey i want one
We've got a v6 coming in, in a week or so, ill try get a few measurements together, see how renault have overcome bumpsteer
yeah the string computer
I'll be interested to see.. also how central the engine is and how they balance the weight when you have to bolt a gearbox on one side.. I can't help thinking left hand drive would have been the easy option for distributing weight evenly..
I thought that with the twingo, esp with that big heavy engine, but guess what, without me in in it's perfectly balanced left to right, I get in a feck it all upyeah the string computer
I'll be interested to see.. also how central the engine is and how they balance the weight when you have to bolt a gearbox on one side.. I can't help thinking left hand drive would have been the easy option for distributing weight evenly..
lol.. maybe I should consider a mclaren f1 setup at least I'll be able to squeeze a 3rd passenger inI thought that with the twingo, esp with that big heavy engine, but guess what, without me in in it's perfectly balanced left to right, I get in a feck it all up
[url]http://www.margnor-online.co.uk/bolts/8-8bolts-1/metric/m8
Last edited by TNT ANDY; 01-11-2010 at 18:43.
I think for less bump steer the longer the rack end/track rod end the better, the larger the arc the less in/out movement there will be on bump/droopWith a short track rod end it would have much more movement (toe in/out) Does this make sense to anyone or am i making this up? lol
What an absolutely awesome car. I want it.
RTOC has some seriously bad ass projects these days.
you might be surprised how little difference moving the engine makes, work it out on a bit of paper... It's a lot of work to achieve very little.
dont think its going to make a lot of difference anyway in mine, once im in it that is ,must be the burgerking effect
been tinkering again , after more google searching last night , it seems like my bypass /pressure relief valve working of a actuator to bypass the supercharger at a set psi is not such a good idea
so im going to feed it constant through the eaton and fit a external waste gate down stream after the charge cooler and recirculate infront of the eaton intake, my only concern is that the intake temp could rocket even with the charge cooler in place, maybe refit my water injection system into the eaton intake to aid cooling , i dont have the room for a second charge cooler
thoughts anybody
on a more positive note , my engine bay looks a lot more open which should allow for better air circulation /cooling
have also purchased a remote oil filter system ,which i will fit in the rear near side wing (where the header tank used to live) as trying to get access in its current position between the supercharger is a complete pain
I know that you never really finish a project, but it's so frustrating to see you being so close to getting it on the road, only to be tripped up at the last 10 hurdles. I admire your commitment and patience.
I'll be back to Renault tomorrow to pick up your paperwork.
to be fair
You could be right be I'm still trying to find someone with some corner weighing scales to get me started
It makes sense to meI think for less bump steer the longer the rack end/track rod end the better, the larger the arc the less in/out movement there will be on bump/droop
I'll second that
cheers Andy , hows yours coming along?I'll second that
been buying more bits for the beast again , new clio valver wishbones and drive shafts with abs rings have turned up ,along with polybush set for valver anti roll bar,
my renault scenic/clio abs hubs go into the machine shop tomorrow to have approx 3mm of metal removed from the mounting lug that attaches to the strut, ready for the launch/ traction control config on the ecu,and allow the rear tyres to pull in a bit, as im not happy with the amount of negative camber on the rear wheels
boost system is now 99.9 % complete again ,just got to get 25mm alloy pipe welded to supercharger inlet pipe,this will form the recirc system in between gear change and low rpm /idle
top stuff mate sounds like you are pretty much there nowbeen buying more bits for the beast again , new clio valver wishbones and drive shafts with abs rings have turned up ,along with polybush set for valver anti roll bar,
my renault scenic/clio abs hubs go into the machine shop tomorrow to have approx 3mm of metal removed from the mounting lug that attaches to the strut, ready for the launch/ traction control config on the ecu,and allow the rear tyres to pull in a bit, as im not happy with the amount of negative camber on the rear wheels
boost system is now 99.9 % complete again ,just got to get 25mm alloy pipe welded to supercharger inlet pipe,this will form the recirc system in between gear change and low rpm /idle
cheers philtop stuff mate sounds like you are pretty much there now
never mind ,bring on 2011
cheers phil
never mind ,bring on 2011
and some ruined tyres, knackered clutch and a gearbox in many pieces lol
what an absolute epic project, just out of interest could a c1j be supercharged and turbo charged well ? just thinking of guys who have t28s etc who dont get boost till 4k +
Perfectly possible just space in the engine bay is tight, if it rear engined yeah no problem
cool
350 -400 if im luckycoolall depends on how long the gearbox lasts !!!
but like you said after response more than anything and would settle for 300 bhp if it lasts for a while
defo mate i bet it will be crazy when the turbo kicks in as well, will be good compare this to some big powered cars especially in gear tests as id imagine yours will do pretty bloody good
hope so,but time will telldefo mate i bet it will be crazy when the turbo kicks in as well, will be good compare this to some big powered cars especially in gear tests as id imagine yours will do pretty bloody good
Update please.
Oh and BTW - you need to rename the thread on this post to R5 GTTurbo2.5
STILL waiting for remote oil head,and pipeUpdate please.
Oh and BTW - you need to rename the thread on this post to R5 GTTurbo2.5
should be picking up hubs tomorrow
sent off confirmation of engine size /cc etc paper work to dvla monday, so all going well should get the all clear for christmas, would just like to say a big THANKYOU to TNT ANDY for sorting that out ,i am really grateful Andy you came to my aid there,big time
a side note for anyone who has intentions of swaping an engine , you will need proof of engine size ,cc capcity, engine code, and number from
1- manufacturer
2- engineer (independent or vosa)
both options are not cheap ,unless you know people in the trade
unless you can prove the engine swap was completed before you purchased the car
oh, and i purchased a 140mm fan to fix onto the oil cooler(switch operated on dash ) more for track and long hard runs in the hot summer months next year,(if we get any)
That's better - was getting withdrawals.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
WOW!! speechless to be honest.. absolutley amazing. hats off to you pal. fair play.
Just paid £16 for four caliper bolts from my Renault dealer basically a M14 50mm boltnot sure there was much they could do on the price I think it was just a ridiculous price to start with.. ah well needs must
Just also paid £14 for 8x bolts for wings.Just paid £16 for four caliper bolts from my Renault dealer basically a M14 50mm bolt
ever thought of trying places other than renault?
I did, bit the tread on those is such an odd ball, I figured I could easily waste half a Saturday mooching around only to find it's Renault only. I've done this before.
Yep.. I have just about every type of off the shelf bolt in my garage.. I just had to bite the bullet
Hey.. Handy have you been out in the snow in the beast? I was going to take mine to work the other day but I was worried the pipes running under the car would freeze ....lol
erm ..no
the pipes under the car could be a problem
to be honest ive never used any of my 5 gtt in winter
just found the ultimate decal/graphics for my project...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VERY-RARE-RENA...#ht_500wt_1156
what do you think
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