has anyone got first hand experiance of this swap?any problems they had?also any pics would be great,started doin this swap 2day and hasnt been too bad but i kno full well im gonna get stuck when it comes to the wiring so any help would be much appriciated.
Originally Posted by extraturbo
im starting mine soon as well when engine is back together
which mk1 clio you using???
which year is the engine you got as there are 2 diff gearbox and engine looms
u will need 2 to get hold of clio rsi mounts ( only the 2 piece one that bolts to the head ) the rest of the mounts are already on the engine in the clio
also b4 you fit the engine take the chance 2 fit new cam belt and clutch this will save u £££££ as you dont know when it was last done
for clutch try these ppl as used them for other cars an http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/home.php
the list goes on ......
I have all the wiring written down for this conversion into a Clio mk1 1.8 16v.
I have done the wiring to use all the original connectors and so all the original dash gauges work, as you will know the 16v has the three extra gauges in the centre.
I do not have it on file yet, i will make it into a word document and add it to this thread. If you need anything specific in the mean time regarding wirings then just ask.
Chris
that helps me as well as have only worked out the rev counter so far
already fitted new clutch and cambelt and aux belt had the engine about 2yrs now,funny you should say about the engine mounts as thats the problem i came across 2day!!!!!!
any wiring diagrams would be much appriciated
sumone must have pics of there engine swap???
just need to find an rsi top mount!! lol.
thanks for all the feed back much appriciated
oh yeah and to answer your question blaze its a 1.4rt wats yours?
mine is the same as yours let me know if you have a prob wis the drive shafts if you beat me to it..... i got that mount from ebay of sum 1 breaking a rsi but be careful it seams like most ppl nowdays think the mk1 rsi is the 1.8 16v when its the 1.8 8v
last resort is get the mount from renault but be in for a shock as it aint cheap but u will need the bolts for it as well there ther only cheap thing from renault
also its best 2 modifiy the cam cover this will be some help https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthrea...ighlight=volvo
but i will take some pics of the 1 i did for mine
the only thing i know for the wiring is what 2 put the tacho wire 2 in the clio that is the pink wire with a small red trace
Last edited by blaze; 08-03-2010 at 13:27.
im stuffed im tryin to find an engine mount an there arnt any round here gna have to be ebay!what are the problems with the drive shafts you speak of?do u know sumthing else that i dont?ur a mind of information!!!!!!!
cheers for the help
looks like i will be walking to work on wednesday!!!lol
im not sure but u mite need the rsi drive shafts.... its sum thing i aint come across yet till my engine is in but i have searched the froums and not found anytin bout them.....
also you mite need 2 think bout a uprated fuel pump http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2785
also bigger front brakes is a good idea i used this http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=201
with 04 plate mk2 clio 1.4/1.6 16v calipers ( renault said it couldnt be done )
but you will need 15'' wheels
hmmm well im hoping that the 1.4 driveshafts will be the same length im using the clio 1.4 gearbox and had sum mods done to the diff by a local gearbox bloke so we will see if it can handle the power,
got black diamond grooved discs and fast road pads should do for the time being,
already got the k-tec fuel pump in my wish list lol
sounds like we are both on the same path so any help you need with yours jus give me a shout.
when you thinkin of startin your swap?
i started months ago lol but not got to the fitting stage as this is the spec im using
Volvo B18FT ( 1.7 Turbo )
EFI-Parts De-restricted ECU
Head ported & Polshed, Gas Flowed , Blueprinted
Garrett GT2560R Turbo
Piper Reprofilled Cam
Saab 900/9000 250cc Injectors
Lightened & Balanced Flywheel
Gizzmo Electronic Boost Controller
Fast Road Clutch
Hand Polish & Painted Inlet Manifold
Alloy Front Mount Intercooler
Alloy Boost Pipes
Magnacore Blue 8mm HT Leads
Denso Spark Plugs
Bailey Venturi Twin Piston Dump Valve
Green Cotton Air Filter
KTR Quick ****
FSE Power Boost Valve
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
HKS Type-1 Turbo Timer
Powerflow 100 Cell Sports Cat
Powerflow exhaust
ooooooooooo sumone has been busy lmao,my spec is-standard volvo b18ft,1993 renault clio and thats the lot haha now im depressed,give us a shout wen ur doin yours an i will pop over and give u a hand if u want?would be good to see a modded b18ft.Ben.
ya an spent some money 2 lol an cheers much appreciated
ive found that its all the small bits that add up only gave 75 for the engine its the rest that has cost the most,oh and jus found an rsi engine mount for a tenner at a breakers jus down the road!!!!!!result.
oooooo im almost arroused lmao,good work mark.
result it took me 3 months 2 find that mount
Ouch mate!
I just read the other thread on your car popping its gasket, not good.
how did u do that
pushing hard in 5th
mark from that gasket im thinking head lift, an thats only 18psi.
if yr running more what are u bolting yr head down with.
i was using standard bolts 10.9 tensile. gona get a set from xr fastners at 12.9 tomorow
have u looked into arps?
Yeah i'll be running alot more boost mate, i've got the standard Capscrew headbolts that come with the car but torqued down abit more than standard. I tried to find some new higher tensile ones (12.9) but the local supplier said they weren't avaliable as the thread is a special size!Didn't look that special to me, may be wrong.
I've been wondering about some ARP bolts, possibly even for the con-rods too.
If we find some you up for geting a few sets?
if that was head lift wouldnt there be damage on other places of the gasket or not torqued down rite.... head not skimmed properly or has this happened b4 or to other ppl
well yeah could work out cheaper
im taking a new bolt to the bolt shop tomorow for him to look at and ive just spoke to dan at srb power whos hunting for sum arp's for me
if he cant find any hell send 1 to them so they can match some up.
will keep u posted if yr intrested
out of curiosity how did u torque up yr head and to what pressure
i done it buy the book.
30nm
70nm
wait 3 mins
slacken
120-125 degrees
i then went over them an they were all at 95 nm
seems a bit low what u rekon
I haven't had mine running yet so not sure if i've done mine tight enough.
I chucked that book away mate that said that, tightened all the bolts in sequence so they nipped the head up then went round in sequence to 80nm
Thing is 80nm is quite tight so i'm suprised yours let go at 95nm, would it be possible that the gasket could be crushed if its too tight.
is there a better gasket that you can get for the b18ft? Also if your looking at a group buy for some decent bolts id have some if the price was good. Im looking to run 18psi so dono if i would need better bolts and gasket but is all ways nice to know it can take it
got engine mount,the breakers was amazing must of had 25 mk1 clios a few 1.8 rsi's even had a mk1 with an f7r in it!!!jus tried uploading pics but not happening.
I haven't had mine running yet so not sure if i've done mine tight enough.
I chucked that book away mate that said that, tightened all the bolts in sequence so they nipped the head up then went round in sequence to 80nm
Thing is 80nm is quite tight so i'm suprised yours let go at 95nm, would it be possible that the gasket could be crushed if its too tight.
it is a posibility but looking at the second gasket its mint all over at them settings.
i dont know the conversion table but i used to do a c1j head up to 75 ft/lb
with im sure is more than 95 nm
tip for blaze make sure you get the power steering pump bracket from a 1.8rsi or it wnt fit!!!!!!unless you havnt got power steerin then ur ok,2 be honest i wish i had started with a 1.8 rsi would be a much easier conversion!
Are they a different size from the GTT head bolts?
https://www.rtoc.org/shop/index.php?m...products_id=56
If they are, probably find that Unbrako will do them but you'll need to buy a few sets. I bought 20 sets for the shop, ie, 200 bolts, last October.
im not sure if there the same or not tbh mate
xr fastners rang me about an hour ago
they can match the head bolts with allen key head bolts but are £2.59 each bolt
seemed a tad dear to me
does it hit or touch some thing in the engine bay ????
No the bolts are bigger on the Volvo.
To be honest thats just short of £30 for a set, not too bad. I'd be interested in a set.
I'm interested in finding a set of stronger con-rod bolts too, worth having a set of those.
not bad price if it stops your problem and i would be up for getting a set or 2
id be up for a set at that price also.
do I want some of those Marky?
Wel i defo need a set. Mayb not the best price but its al that ive found so far. An there only up the road from me.
If people want sum wats the best way of seting it up.
I dnt mind people paying me via paypal or wud u all feel safer having it go through the club.
im happy wid pay pal
Are they just normal good quality 12.9 cap screws like the ones in the shop?
If so, for 30 you could get about 6 sets!! Well, you'd have to get 20 sets to get that price of about £5 for 10. But are there 20 people who want them? If so......group buy.
i was under the assumption that you could just use the clio 1.6 diesel/ 5gtx mount and just drill the subframe? i personally would be slightly concerned with the way the mount is bolted to the head, on a higher power engine, both mounts would be a nice touch to help engine rock tho.
an adequate fuel pump can be bought from gsf, mk1 golf/audi tt. part number ending in 191a, bout £65 last time i got one.
driveshafts off any model clio should do, apart from 4speed gearbox models.
not to knock ya set-up blaze but for others who want to do it a bit cheaper,
Gizzmo Electronic Boost Controller - ball bearing grainger valve is sufice
Magnacore Blue 8mm HT Leads - new std are fine for 25psi
Denso Spark Plugs - new std are fine for 25psi
Bailey Venturi Twin Piston Dump Valve - has to be re-circ or will upset afm, can do without
FSE Power Boost Valve - std regulator pressure with sabb injectors fuels for more than 25psi
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump - gsf, mentioned above
HKS Type-1 Turbo Timer - leave tickin over for a few mins lol
Powerflow 100 Cell Sports Cat - cat isn't required as most engines are from pre 93 cars
regards the head bolts, i seem to remember workin it out to be 73nm, but i dont have an angle gauge, so have always done mine to 75ish. std bolts and std headgasket, tested and even pinking at 25psi. few engine been done this way with no problems. freak occurance?
i am a freak haha,
a verry unlucky 1 at that.
why does it seem im having mega issues getting mine to stay alive
what head gaskets were you using chris, O.E or just 1 from a local motor factors
The photo of the gasket looks like it was badly det'ing, plain and simple, you didn't lift off and that is the result.
I have a gasket here that looks the same, including the eroded path through to the water way. The chap said he had turned the boost right up, he had no gauge so didn't know what to, very loud music playing and was on full throttle for while then car started to smoke from the exhaust (would have been steam) and judder and then stopped.
He couldn't hear the det'ing over the loud music. He wouldn't have know what it was even if he had.
no offence taken
ian can see what yr saing but theres no way that the engine was detting.
the rollers would have picked it up at first plus there would be sighns of det on the head. and possibly piston
or i would have herd it.
surley
IIRC detonation can destroy the gasket in seconds, i remember hearing it when Mart and I took the 19 out and backed off straight away
its not the best pic to judge tho tbh
u cant see in the pik but the fire ring has a masive split bang smack in the middle
like its bin sliced with a stanley
Detonation is like hammering a chisel into the fire ring.
How do you mean:Not for certain. There was no damage to the piston top on the one I had but there was a small amount of metal 'chipped' from the head near the damaged fire ring. There was also a burnt exhaust valve that had 1/3 of the bottom broken off. And scored liners.
Are you familiar with the sound / feel of knock/det? Is your valve train very 'tappety'? That might mask det.
ian i retract my previous statement.
being curious as to what u were saying i decided to pull the pistons from the block.
an oh yes u guessed it there screwed.
the crowns are mint as is the head.
the sides of the pistons took it all (above the first ring below the crown) (b18ft)
now im poised with a megga problem. do i go back to the rollers and ask about it
being as 1 of my freinds is the mapper.
do i send my next engine there with uber expencive pistons?
oh an as previous question im very familiar with det mate ive had my fair few probs in the past but not like this on a volvo lump
mr haz answer yr fone lol
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