sweet, sounds like my tungy bumpers are going to be difficult to paint then. :P
I have some moped panels to paint in orange 2k this weekend.
Ive just started looking at larger compressors etc, as im currently only using a baby 25L.
sweet, sounds like my tungy bumpers are going to be difficult to paint then. :P
I have some moped panels to paint in orange 2k this weekend.
Ive just started looking at larger compressors etc, as im currently only using a baby 25L.
im wanting to do a bit of painting next year and wondered a few things. im wanting to paint my bonnet the paints not awful its not bubbled with rust etc im planning on painting with 2k can i just rough up the paint theat already on it with say 800 grit or something then go straight on with high build then paint it? does it matter if i use high build out of a rattle can then flat it back before painting or do i need to use 2k primer? cheers
a friend told me high build out a can is a pain in the ass for reacting with other paints so id advise not.
yeah the more i look into this painting the more confusing it becomes im slightly put off painting with 2k now due to the health issues with it so im thinking of goin with cellulose 1k which if im right means putting on a barcoat first then priming and the painting people seem to thinking 1k requires more cutting back and polishing? do other people on here painting with 2k all use air fed respirators?
25 ltr compressor will ber just copeable for a panel, but you'll have to work slow to keep the pressure level abn will prob run constant.
regards the bonnet respray, if its mint then i know of places that would just scotch prep then paint, after all thats wat you'd do for a blend in repair but just flat bac with 800 to make sure its actually mint, any pings will show up. no need for primer unless ya rub through the paint. i only use rattle can primer when just doin tiny spots that not worth mixin 2k for. high build in a can will react wit celli based paints and i have had issues with high thinner based 2k stuff.
personally i dont see health issues with 2k doin the odd paintjob even without proper breathin gear, its not got the same chemicals as it used to. apart from years ago when practicin, all i've ever used is a 3m face mask with charcoal filters and a fair few times with just room ventilation, although i wouldnt advise as i dont know the long term effects, yet.
celi 1k isnt as thick or as hard wearing as 2k, so doesnt require as much rubbin and flattin but doesn't have as good a shine, nor as hard wearing and scratch resistant
Just dragging this up again, i should be ready for paint in a month or so weather depending.
Im currently rubbing down, i have just scotched some parts, but the car has been all kings of colours with layers, so most of the panels have been sanded, 120 then over with 400 wet and dry.
Should i go over it with a 600 or should 400 do it?
I have been told 400 is ok with 2k primer.
phil
400 wont remove 120 that well, guide it up then rub it with a bit of 240 then 400. Some people dont finish that high I personally finish for primer on 320Originally Posted by philg
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
just a quick one about this new water based paint which theyve started to sell.
its ****e!!
it maybe ok for the pro's in there vented booths, but for us who r doing it in a dusty garage its a nightmare!
it basically doesnt dry for bloody hours and u cant speed it up with heat.
that means that dust will still stick to it ages after uve painted, unlike cellulose which is touch dry after 20 mins in heat! also u obviously hav to wait ages to apply more coats, and if ur impatient like me ul end up with runs everywhere!
Thats why you dry it with cold airWater based piant is just exactly the same to paint as 2k or base coat, but it requirs air too dry, Thats why you can buy the special air dryers or use the air end on your air line
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
hello i used to be a spray painter and still do it in my spare time,
it was intresting to read these comments,
waterbase needs good air flow it drys quicker with the correct air flow than with heat belive it or not!! we use special blow guns,thats for the waterbase and of course heat for the clearcoat,
its starting to get harder for bodyshops to get solid paint now,(2 pack)
if you paint in cellouse you will need to polish all the time as it always dulls off
and each time you will actualy be removing the paint and finish is ****! it will sink in to your repairs,
i havent seen cellouse for along time,
2pack is better but again will breakdown quicker under the suns rays(dulls off)
than say a solvent or waterbase basecoat,if you are spraying in a garage go for
solid 2pack if you are handy with a gun go for solvent basecoat with 3 layers of clearcoat that will give you plenty to cut back with when polishing.(solvent drys pretty quick with heat)
well said i still prefer base and clear my self.....
Just dragging this back up.
What size compressor should i buy for a diy paint job? a mate has told me 50ltr and 2hp will do fine.
Can anyone recommend a good brand or where to buy from? I'm sure machine mart sell them.
Phil
Sorry, skipped through the thread, what are you trying to paint, all of it in one go or sectionS? 2hp, 50 litres is okay for balloons
Last edited by wrightygtt; 18-03-2010 at 18:49.
100ltr is the least you want to go for
It would be in sections, all my panels are of the car, so do them 1 at a time, then inside of car, engine bay, door and boot shuts, then outside.Sorry, skipped through the thread, what are you trying to paint, all of it in one go or sectionS? 2hp, 50 litres is okay for balloons
Then have the fun putting it all back together
phil
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