Megasquirt MS1 running Extra code.Originally Posted by Matt Cole
Megasquirt MS1 running Extra code.
On the couple of runs I've done the AFR has gone to 13.5 when the engine comes on boost. I'm thinking open the 2nd stage to 1.3, (currently at 1.2).
How much boost you running Woznaldo ? What's your AC jet ?
I'm only running 15 psi boost and I think my air corrector is 90? It maybe 100?
Yeah seems rather lean for only 15 psi.
I pulled the carb apart completely and blasted it with carb cleaner and compressed air. I also measured the Air Corrector and it was 120, so I swapped it our for a 90 and now it's a bit to rich! Getting 10s during low boost, but never gets higher than 12 at WOT.
Maybe I need to go back up to 100? Or 110?
Haven't done anything more with the engine, but had a few things give up on me!
The wipers were always a little slow, but since having a battery connected post engine rebuild they seem to be even slower. A lot slower. I pulled the Wiper mech off and after pulling the mech apart, the wiper are spindles have a huge step in them, much like the way door hinges wear.
I also thought I'd give the car a wash, so wound the windows up, only for the LH door window mech to break! I have to admit, I'm not a fan of the R5 window mechs, clio1 and clio2 mechs are much better. Maybe I should go for polycarbonate windows!....
Oh the fun!
Not much to report as I haven't had much time to give to the car recently, but I have done a few small jobs.
As previously reported, the Wiper Mech was getting slow (really slow) so I ordered a replacement from Bob @ CGB and that arrived a few days ago. Here's the state of the wiper shafts!
I also got some new indicator lenses, but need to make a few adjustments before fitting them.
Finally, I've drilled the AC Jet to 1.0mm, so hopefully not as rich on initial application of the throttle. Road test soon.
Cool WozInching forward.
What are the new wiper shafts like in comparison the old? Those splines look worn but difficult to tell by how much.
New mech is a lot better. The wiper action is smooth, so a vast improvement!Cool Woz
What are the new wiper shafts like in comparison the old? Those splines look worn but difficult to tell by how much.
I'm going to attempt a repair on the window mech, but going to look at some polycarbonate too.
I drilled the AC jet out to 1.0mm and it didn't seem to change too much. Still quite rich on initial throttle application. I then took the car to a quiet straight road for some fourth gear pulls from the 2000 rpm to bed in the piston rings a bit better. During these pulls the car was tending to lean out towards 4500-5000 to about 13.5 AFR before I lifted. I might open the sencond stage to 1.3mm?
Ok, now that I've completed the initial run in and changed the oil to a full synthetic I've decided to get into the EFI conversion! So I've pulled the carb and inlet manifold off and loosely fitted the fabled Alliance Multi-point manifold. I'll now work out loom lengths and the FPR location and pipe run. Here's a few pics.
I haven't got a lot of spare time these days so progress won't be rapid, but I'll get pics up as it happens.
Too true!
Woz,
How did you fit your Renault oil gallery plugs?
Renault manual has a special tool Mot.111 and to be pressed in
Woz,
How did you fit your Renault oil gallery plugs?
Renault manual has a special tool Mot.111 and to be pressed in
Fordy, I just used a socket that was very close to the ID of the plug hole and bashed it a few times. The aluminium squashes and fills the gap. Pretty much the same deal with the Cam plug. It's concave and so expands when give it a little love tap.
Woz
I got a bit eager and took it upon myself after i posted
found out the locking pin for my engine stand is perfect size/concave shape for the plugs, I applied some green studlock loctite to them before giving it a good few hit with a 2lb lump hammer seems pretty secure now
I got a bit of time off work at the moment so I decided to put a bit of effort into my EFI conversion. Today I removed the std FPR and fitted my Aeromotive FPR together with fuel lines to the Fuel Rail and FPR.
I also started on the loom. I had some bits prepped from a while back, so it was just a case routing and slapping a bit of heat shrink over the top. It's not the neatest job, but will get me going and I can then refine the loom after she's up and running.
I'm not happy with how the loom is sitting and it hasn't got the IAT Sensor loom and TPS loom incorporated yet, but as before, it's a start.
So the bits remaining are, fitting the IAT somewhere before the Throttle Body, mounting the Throttle Body and somehow sorting the boost hose connection from Throttle Body to SMIC. I've also got to sort some kind of idle control valve and plug the redundant holes on the Alliance Manifold.
Who knows, this might be completed quicker than expected!
Last edited by Woznaldo; 25-06-2016 at 05:58.
I do have one other 'potential' issue that may required attention. The right side of the Alliance Manifold has a core plug/welsh plug in the end and I'm wondering how much boost it will take before it pops out? I'm tempted to pull it out now and machine the end so I can bolt an end cap on? Or, just suck it and see?
One to think on perhaps??....
I've decided to use a Vacuum Block to better manage all the boost/vacuum customers (FPR, MAP Sensor, Turbo Actuator and Brake Servo). Not purchased one yet, but looking.
Are there similar core plugs in the GTT that are under pressure? It looks pretty meaty. I'd probably give it a go as-is.
Turn an aluminium blank on a lathe and tig weld in place
Trevhib liked this post
A much better idea!
That is easily done. I even have access to a welding magician and a machine shop! Preferably I'd like to remove the core plug as it could fall out (into the plenum) during the welding process, but I guess I'd just tip it out the Throttle Body entrance?
Ok, as you can see from earlier posts, I'm using a Throttle Body from a Clio1 Valver. I'm using this as it flows well and bolts straight onto the Alliance Manifold. What I've gained with the ease of bolting to the Manifold, I've partially lost due to the 'egg shaped' TB inlet that I need to convert to 57mm OD that will allow me to connect it to the current boost pipe setup.
To this end I've been trying to design an adapter to suit. I took some dimensions and threw them into Catia (CAD), hoping that this will hopefully give me something usable and a bit neater than the Air Filter Adapters that are being sold on eBay. Once I have the final design squared away I'll post it up and make it available to all that might want to use it, or part of it.
I still run the Clio throttle body on my drag car and I just proven there's no need to change it after running 9.9sec as I been told by other members to change it
Catia - I hear designers love this. At Rolls-Royce (aero) back in the day they rolled out NX and most engineers moaned it wasn't as good as Catia.
Is it not for the water side? Aren't cote plugs geneally for water expansion/freezing?I do have one other 'potential' issue that may required attention. The right side of the Alliance Manifold has a core plug/welsh plug in the end and I'm wondering how much boost it will take before it pops out? I'm tempted to pull it out now and machine the end so I can bolt an end cap on? Or, just suck it and see?
One to think on perhaps??....
when I pressure test the core plugs (new)on the gt turbo manifolds (water of course) there are no problems at 2 bar ......so how much boost are u willing to run??
Maybe I was right after all
Matt, there's no water ways on the Alliance Manifold. They use direct contact with the Exhaust Manifold (on the Alliance original). I actually had to cut part of it away to make it fit properly.
So what you're saying is, bolt on the Valver TB and hello 9.9s!?............I still run the Clio throttle body on my drag car and I just proven there's no need to change it after running 9.9sec as I been told by other members to change it
How have you adapted your Valver TB for turbo use (fitment)?
EDIT: I found some pics on your profile and it looks like you used the adapter from eBay (France) for you initial conversion, but now you've made something more substantial?
Last edited by Woznaldo; 11-07-2016 at 00:12.
Here's a pic of the Adapter Plate I've been working on using CATIA. I'm new to the software and still adapting from AUTOCAD, so it's not quite there yet, but you get the idea.
If you're having any problems modelling, I don't mind helping where possible.
I use Solidworks, but can save the part off as a generic 3d file for you to open in Catia.
roughly how much would a component like that cost to produce?
Thanks Leigh, but I've got plenty of guys to point the way, it's just getting the time to do it as I don't have the software at home.If you're having any problems modelling, I don't mind helping where possible.
I use Solidworks, but can save the part off as a generic 3d file for you to open in Catia.
There's a local Engineering firm that do individual pieces for reasonable money, but I still think it'll cost A$150-200 including material. That said, I might be able to get in knocked up at Uni, in which case It'll only be the cost of the material! It should be noted that the finished plate will still need pipe welding to it, so the whole piece would be around A$300 if completely outsourced. Completely unrealistic as a production piece, but hopefully it'll look pretty!
Leigh5T liked this post
I haven't had a lot of spare time this year, but I have managed to get a couple of jobs ticked off. I finally completed the the EFI wiring! Here's the relay board with Deutch Connecters (pricy, but well worth the cost!).
I've also gone for a bit of a retro styling mod. I'm sure it won't be to all tastes, but I really like the end result.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 07-10-2016 at 10:50.
Ha, love it. Though I'd prefer a different wheel colour
I'd prefer a whole different set of wheels. Willy Wheels are one of my all time favs!Ha, love it. Though I'd prefer a different wheel colour
Trevhib liked this post
Here's the car with the tyres on.
I've been pretty busy for a while, but over the last week found some time for the 5. Got the rest of the EFI plumbed in, if a little crudely! Tried to fire her up but just got coughing. Found a couple of simple faults so will fix them up and have another crack.
Last edited by Woznaldo; 19-04-2017 at 14:22.
Ok. I've been messing around with ideas for a throttle body adaptor, but having an idea that looks the part, is actually machinable and doesn't cost a packet is another matter altogether!
I decided that I don't actually need that to start the car, so after I've fixed the little faults I'll try to fire the old girl up again.
Small but positive update. Had some issues with my Megasquirt1. Turned out the main issue was me understanding how the settings worked! Anyway, the engine fired up on MS1 and Alliance Manifold for the first time today. I won't lie, brought a smile to my face!
Idle is very high at 2500 rpm, so I must have an air leak somewhere.
Hopefully I'll have some progress to report soon!
https://youtu.be/ekDJKoi6b0Y
Last edited by Woznaldo; 03-07-2017 at 07:29.
More pics !!!
I'm in exam period at the moment, but will get some up later in the week.
Ok. Found the air leak. There was a blind hole on the Alliance manifold that isn't blind! I'm now in a position to get tuning!
Matt Cole liked this post
This bloody car!!!!! I took the liberty of upgrading to MegaSquirt 2 with Extra code and at the same time do a couple of mods to allow me to run a PWM Idle Valve (Bosch 3 wire) and Boost Control. All went fairy well, after some minor confusion on how to mod my now obsolete V2.2 PCB (current PCB are V3). The car fired up fairly easily and I was almost at the stage of being able to hit the dyno.
While trying to start the car I've been having issues with the starter (which was new 2 years ago). It would click, click, click and then go after any random number of clicks, so I thought I'd do the mod suggested in the articles section (https://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthrea...from-old-site)), but the last few starts before I started the mod made a weird noise like the starter gear wasn't fully engaging on the ring gear?
After conducting the mod, the starter made the same noise only louder now it had a more reliable solenoid energizer power source. I pulled the starter off, but other than some minor wear to starter gear it looked fine? I still had my old starter, so chucked that on, but it was a lot slower and after a few attempts it would stop?
When I got out the car after the last attempt, I noticed that there was some fuel under the engine bay?
Where will it end!?
I'll take a look tomorrow, but a VERY frustrating day today.
The plot thickens! I pulled the spark plugs, pulled the fuel pump fuse and injector bank fuses and turned the engine over. a shit load of fuel came firing out of the spark plug holes!!
The starter was obviously fighting a hydraulic lock, which is a little worrying, but the engine did seem to turn over quite freely with the plugs out, so hopefully no long term damage?
Not sure why there is so much fuel being thrown into the engine during cranking, but I'm reviewing settings and we'll see how we get on? Probably through it on the MS on the Stim to make sure all is well.
Charging the battery tonight so she's good to go for tomorrow.
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