Re: Project Yellow Peril

**Woznaldo** · 10-01-2016, 12:23

Well, I put the last bits and pieces on the engine in the bay, purged the fuel system. I then ran the engine on the starter for a few seconds a prime the oil system, but the oil pressure light didn't go out and I didn't want to run the engine any loner as I was worried about the new Cam.

I hooked up the ignition and cranked the old girl into to life for about ten seconds and heard fluid pouring out from somewhere, so I shut down straight away. After a bit of investigation I soon discovered it was oil pouring out from the Flywheel end. My first thought was the new crank seal wasn't seated correctly but that wasn't it.

I had a look at my spare block and it soon became clear. In my urgency to get the car back on the road, I have not fitted the core plugs into the block oil channel under the Cam. You can actually see it in post #282.

I'm not sure if I will need to pull the engine completely out or whether I can just seperate it in place? Oh well, we live and learn!

**Fordy** · 10-01-2016, 13:04

Take it all out again buddy,

You might have to take the clutch off and give it alot of brake cleaner if it's been soaked in oil.

Had the oil feed banjo bolt come loose once at speed and filled bell housing with oil, saved clutch with about 5 litres of brake cleaner poured into the clutch whilst brother operated the clutch pedal.

**Woznaldo** · 10-01-2016, 22:18

Fordy,

I'm actually moving house, so I've sprayed a load of degreaser down the flywheel and parked the car up at a friends. I'll do the move and come back for the car with a trailer and do it all properly.

**Trevhib** · 11-01-2016, 11:07

Ah crap

So easy to miss something on such a detailed rebuild.

**Woznaldo** · 11-01-2016, 19:47

Originally Posted by Trevhib

Ah crap

So easy to miss something on such a detailed rebuild.

I'm a bit annoyed at myself, but I was working in a small space with stuff everywhere. I lost a lot of time just loosing small parts and tools down the side of this and that and having to move large parts to find them again.

The new place has a double garage!!!

**Trevhib** · 11-01-2016, 22:04

Double garage? What I'd give for a bloody single garage! Lol. Our new place has a shed. Great.

**Woznaldo** · 12-01-2016, 10:10

Gotta admit, the Aussie housing is a little more generous in that department, but I've been living in inner Sydney for the last two years, so 'doing it tough' with only the single!

**Trevhib** · 12-01-2016, 10:23

Show us a pic of the new place when you get chance

**Woznaldo** · 17-01-2016, 07:59

Here's the garage and part of the collection....

Still unpacking and the Box Trailer will be kicked outside once unloaded. I'm also selling the Mini as I simply don't have the time.

**Matt Cole** · 17-01-2016, 09:44

Originally Posted by Woznaldo

Here's the garage and part of the collection....

Still unpacking and the Box Trailer will be kicked outside once unloaded. I'm also selling the Mini as I simply don't have the time.

Very nice mate. Plenty of space.

**Trevhib** · 17-01-2016, 11:05

Yep, super cool. Envious.

**Woznaldo** · 22-01-2016, 23:52

I still haven't picked the car up yet as I want to get everything settles in my new place first. I the mean time here's a few pics of the new Top Mounts in place.

As you can see from the above pics, I had to remove some metal from around the Strut Towers so the Piston Rod had some clearance. I don't intend to do too much adjustment with these while I'm still running the std track, but when the wide track setup goes on (no idea when), this is when these will pay dividends.

I'm going to have to readjust the camber at the strut base to put it back to somewhere sensible. It looks like its at about -6 or -7 degrees!

Here's a pick of the 'missing' core plug from the block oil way (my spare block).

Hopefully I'll pick the car up next weekend.

**Woznaldo** · 19-02-2016, 09:44

Car now at my new house. And so it begins......

Hopefully engine out tomorrow.

**Woznaldo** · 21-02-2016, 03:52

So, engine is now out. No oil on clutch plate! Going to drain the oil inspect the bearings and also pull the camshaft and inspect that too. Let's hope I haven't destroyed everything!!

So far so good.....

**Matt Cole** · 21-02-2016, 10:49

Afternoons work there mate! Hope you get it sorted!

**Fordy** · 21-02-2016, 12:06

Is that 2 copper washers between the turbo oil feed banjo and the block?

**Trevhib** · 21-02-2016, 17:45

Looks like 1? There should be one on each side of that banjo connection IIRC. Is the outer one missing?

**Fordy** · 21-02-2016, 18:36

sure looks like 2 washers when zoomed in.

**Trevhib** · 21-02-2016, 19:24

Oh yeah you're absolutely right

And there's the outer one too. The outer one in the original pic didn't look obvious, making the inner appear to potentially be a single.

**Woznaldo** · 22-02-2016, 08:15

Ha ha, good pick up. This was intentional as I slightly deformed the union (not the banjo bolt itself). The extra crush washer has a slightly larger outer diameter and was used to cover the deformity. I have already got another from Bob at CGB and will use it in due course. Good to see you have you eyes peeled! I'll show you the damage when I take it off.

**Woznaldo** · 23-02-2016, 10:53

Here's the offending union.

I've pulled the followers and they look good, as does the Cam, but yet to pull it out completely for the full inspection.

**Woznaldo** · 24-02-2016, 01:35

Cam is good!

**Woznaldo** · 24-02-2016, 11:02

Ok, I've checked the crank and the big ends and for any damage and everything looks great. I've now reapplied some assembly lube and torqued everything up again.

Next task is to throw the head back on and check the cam timing again before throwing the sump and timing cover back on. With luck, I might be able to get the engine back in over the weekend..... ....maybe.

**Trevhib** · 24-02-2016, 11:56

**Woznaldo** · 25-02-2016, 20:22

Head is now on and valve clearances set. Cam timing check next, then covers etc. it's getting there!

**Woznaldo** · 28-02-2016, 05:46

Cam timing checked. I actually had to make a small adjustment, but happy with the final result. Rocker cover, timing chain cover and sump all back on. Just flywheel and drop it in.

**Woznaldo** · 05-03-2016, 21:52

The car is now trying to annoy me. The oil pressure warning light isn't coming on when I turn on the ignition!

I've already started to track it down, so hopefully it won't hold me up for too long. Everything else is done.

**Woznaldo** · 11-03-2016, 09:23

OK, at last some success! Engine has now been started and the Cam run in at 2500 rpm for 10 mins, probably more. Had a few little issues like the fan not kicking in and a leak from one of the bleed nipples on the top radiator hose.

The issue that is vexing me at the moment is the idle. I've tried the most obvious thing, the idle valve, which I've cleaned and I've also replaced the o-ring seal.

I can't see any other obvious leaks, but I guess I might need to pull the carb off and double check I haven't got a duff/dry seal somewhere?

The engine seems to run quite well when it's at 2000 rpm and above, so I think it must just be an air leak somewhere?

**Trevhib** · 11-03-2016, 10:25

Good progress

You think it's drawing in air somewhere? Maybe the carb base?

Is the idle unsteady, or just too high?

**Woznaldo** · 11-03-2016, 11:23

It's unsteady, but drops really low and then cuts out after some struggle spluttering.

**Trevhib** · 11-03-2016, 12:42

Aye. Could be carb base gasket or idle jet o-ring perished/seated badly? Idle jet blocked?

You're probably way ahead of me though, you usually are

**Woznaldo** · 12-03-2016, 09:35

Idle Jet cleaned thoroughly and new seal fitted. New carb base gaskets fitted. No change?

The only thing that's different in the vacuum system is the turbo actuator which was on my hybrid turbo when I fitted it. Like the standard T2 actuator, its a dual port and the second port is open (cup mod). If the diaphragm is split, it might be causing issues? That said, I run a bleed valve so maybe not?

**Trevhib** · 12-03-2016, 10:50

Pesky!

Total guesses: Idle mixture screw o-ring? Accelerator arm returning fully to its base position? Butterfly closing fully? All restrictors fitted? No blockages in the vaccum set-up or collapsed/squished pipes?

**Woznaldo** · 12-03-2016, 11:33

I'm going to give the idle jet another clean, just to be sure and I've also replaced some vacuum hoses for good measure. Will fire her up in the AM and go from there.

**Matt Cole** · 12-03-2016, 15:35

Idle jet will block continuously if the car has just had a build.

**Woznaldo** · 13-03-2016, 07:26

Pulled the whole carb off and blew it through and there's an improvement but still lumpy. Does anyone run a Cat Cams 325 who can confirm what their idle is like?

**Woznaldo** · 16-03-2016, 10:36

Ok. I started the car tonight and it sounded like it was only running on three cylinders, but I decided to let it warm up and take it round the block to see what it felt like. The first run around the block, it struggled, but just as I pulled into the drive it cleared! Still lumpy, but running on all four.

I gave the car a good look over and checked for any leaks. A small amount of oil seeping from my remote filter take-off plate, but other than that, all good.

The leak at the radiator top hose has been fixed with some thin plastic from a take-away container and a new seal cut from some rubber sheet.

Here's a short video to show you what the idle sounds like at the moment.

http://vid196.photobucket.com/albums...ps4tkhd0c1.mp4

God it was good to get the old girl out!!

**Trevhib** · 16-03-2016, 10:48

Ahh. If idle is lumpy because it's got an ignition problem, that could be a totally different fix!

**Woznaldo** · 16-03-2016, 11:36

When I did the second run the car seemed to pull cleanly once on boost, if a little lean. I'll clean up on the ignition connectors for good measure anyway and see if that makes an improvement?

It might just need the ignition map to be tweeked a little?

I've also been given a T28 from an S15 by a mate, that I might try out. I'm expecting it to be a lag monster, especially with the 0.64 turbine housing!

**Trevhib** · 16-03-2016, 12:27

T28

Maybe you have a break in one of the leads or a bad earth somewhere

Edit - just watched the vid. Dirty sound! Love it.

**Woznaldo** · 17-03-2016, 09:12

I haven't haad the chance to check the ignition system connectors, but I've been thinking a bit more about the issue and remember that I tweeked the ignition map around idle to get the engine to idle smoothly on the std cam when I installed the MS1 ECU.

I might need to revisit the map to see if if has any effect. I'll do the other checks first though.

**Fordy** · 17-03-2016, 18:58

you might find the engine want more idle timing to smooth it out,

I was running 14-15 degrees at idle on my T28 and 285cam, with every degree added i could hear the engine become smoother7

Does sound nice tho, i'll be interested to see your dyno graphs with that cam setup as i might ditch the piper cam and springs for custom springs and a catcam

**Woznaldo** · 18-03-2016, 09:22

Here's my current ignition map. You can see that I lifted the values in the 0-500 rpm range to 15° BTDC and helped a lot during the initial setup. I might increase the timing to 15° in the 500-1000 range for the first to blocks and see how it goes?

Time will tell.

**francob80** · 18-03-2016, 18:33

Cool thread mate. I've enjoyed reading.

A few nice ideas in here for mine in the future too especially around the top struts.

**Fordy** · 18-03-2016, 20:04

What you might find with doing it that way woz is that you get starter kick back sometimes

Mine in the 20 -80 row starts @ 650rpm which has 10 degrees and @ 2000rpm has 21.5 degrees @3000rpm 33degrees etc.

Found this gave a nice driving feel from roundabouts and junctions etc

**Woznaldo** · 19-03-2016, 00:24

Originally Posted by Fordy

What you might find with doing it that way woz is that you get starter kick back sometimes

Mine in the 20 -80 row starts @ 650rpm which has 10 degrees and @ 2000rpm has 21.5 degrees @3000rpm 33degrees etc.

Found this gave a nice driving feel from roundabouts and junctions etc

Thanks for the advice Fordy, I'll try what you've mentioned above and see how I go.

**Woznaldo** · 19-03-2016, 00:27

Originally Posted by francob80

Cool thread mate. I've enjoyed reading.

A few nice ideas in here for mine in the future too especially around the top struts.

Thanks Franco, not everything I've tried has gone to plan, but I'm trying to do things that I think will work in the long run with my intended setup.

**Woznaldo** · 19-03-2016, 07:58

I made some changes but they made little difference. This leads me to believe that the problem lies elsewhere?

I also noticed that the engine hunts during idle. You can actually hear it in the video above.

**Woznaldo** · 26-03-2016, 00:04

I thought I'd sort the minor oil leak this weekend, but not entirely sure where it's coming from? I suspect it's from the top take off fitting going to my remote oil filter. In this pic you can see that the top hose runs against the radiator so I want to change that which will also allow me to tighten the take-off boss.

I've simply changed the straight fitting for a 45 degree one to kick it away from the radiator before resuming the same route to the filter.

I've fire her up and gone for a cheek drive around the block and all appears well. Job done.

**Matt Cole** · 26-03-2016, 08:24

Woz you may have mentioned it but what ecu are you using?

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